Since early 2000 we have seen the rise in popularity of Laser Hair Removal treatments, enabling both men and women to unburden themselves from regular shaving. However, Laser Hair Removals for Dark Skins (Black, Brown, Latinas and even tanned skin) were considered ineffective and prone to severe side effects.
Laser Hair Removal was always considered rather risky for a person of colour. The laser technology used wasn’t made with darker skin tones in mind. The devices used weren’t sophisticated enough to properly distinguish skin pigments in brown, or black skin from dark hair follicles, they were only ideal for people with fair skin and dark hair follicles.
Over the years, advancements in inclusive technology made for dark skin tones have enabled tan to deep skin individuals to effectively get Laser Hair Removals. It’s certainly something to be excited over.
How does laser hair removal work?
Keeping it brief, laser hair removal is a non-invasive procedure that uses amplified light to permanently remove unwanted hair. The energy emitted from the highly concentrated light targets the pigments in each hair follicle thus safely damaging it, inhibiting or delaying future hair growth.
Laser wavelengths for hair removal
In Lasers for Medical Applications (a book for medical students) it is noted that the lasers used to treat unwanted hair growth can be grouped into two categories, according to their wavelengths – the 694nm ruby lasers or the infrared (IR) light lasers. The IR lasers include the 755nm Alexandrite laser, the 800 nm semiconductor Diode Laser and the 1064nm Nd:YAG. Read more about this here: Laser Hair Removal Wavelengths: Alexandria, Diode, and ND: YAG
Each laser has its specialities. But within each laser, there are also numerous settings that can be adjusted to give you the most effective treatment. We always advise starting your laser hair treatment with a patch test to determine the best laser to use and what precise grade of laser energy is required to achieve the best results for your skin and hair type.
Laser specialists rely on the Fitzpatrick skin typing scale to determine a person’s skin colour. Based on your Fitzpatrick skin type number, the corresponding laser is selected for your treatment.
The best Laser for Dark Skin
The contrast between the colour of the skin and the colour of the hair follicle pigment is what allows the laser to easily pick out what to target. Thanks to the recent advancement in laser technology, now there are safer and more effective options available for dark skin types.
Nd:YAG (or only YAG) and Diode are the popular laser wavelengths that work for dark skin and dark hair.
The Diode wavelength is very effective on darker skin tones but is less effective on lighter, finer hair. Its deep penetration levels offer the best results for skin types I to IV. It has a much higher abruption rate when it comes to melanin. The laser energy will destroy the root of the follicle and instantly disable hair growth for good. It is a much newer option in the market and has become the gold standard in laser hair removal technology.
Nd:YAG on the other hand has recently become increasingly popular for treating hair removals in dark skins. The Nd:YAG wavelength is a long-pulsed laser and goes deeper into the skin. It bypasses the skin’s surface and only targets deeper melanin at the hair follicle level – making it the safest option for medium to dark skin. It produces two wavelengths. The lower wavelength is effective at treating finer hair, whereas, the higher wavelength can reach deeper follicles housing more terminal hair.
The choice of which laser technology should be used should always be determined by the patient’s skin type – not just the colour, the patient’s ethnicity and skincare routine should also play a part in the decision.
What to do before a laser hair removal treatment?
Always go through an initial consultation so that the practitioner can do a patch test in an inconspicuous area and determine the best course of action. Remember it’s not a one-day treatment, you would need multiple sessions to permanently get rid of unwanted hair.
On your initial screening, discuss any medications and skincare products you use with the doctor. You should also include your ethnicity; regardless of your skin tone, different ethnicities react differently to lasers.
If you are using Acutane, do not undergo any laser treatment for at least six months after stopping the medication.
At least one week before your treatment you should stop using any skincare products with harsh ingredients, including retinol, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, benzoyl peroxide and retinoids. These usually make your skin more sensitive to laser energy.
Try and keep out of the sun or use proper sunscreen (broad-spectrum SPF of 30 or more). Tinted moisturiser with SPF doesn’t count. A suntan means more pigmentation which can spur a different and potentially dangerous reaction to the laser. If you do have a slight tan, please ensure your laser provider is aware of it, so they can adjust the treatment energy.
Post-treatment care for dark skin after Laser Hair Removal
Following your Laser Hair Removal treatment, there are certain things you would want to do and some you would want to avoid to ensure you get the best possible outcome.
You should forgo any activity that may irritate the skin. For instance, avoid exercising for 24 hours, avoid direct exposure to the sun for at least a month, and avoid bleaching, waxing or plucking for about 6 weeks.
To help you reduce any redness or swelling after your treatment we recommend applying a cool compress, and topical corticosteroids and keep your skin moisturised with soothing creams containing aloe vera, vitamin E, and vitamin K. Your laser specialists will advise you adequately to ensure you make the most of your session.
How many laser hair removal sessions will I need?
Hair growth is reduced after each treatment session and the number of sessions required will be based on your skin tone, hair colour type and body area. Sating that, typically we have seen 6-8 sessions are enough for most people to permanently get rid of unwanted hair.
Risks of Laser Hair Removal on Dark Skin
Up until recently, laser hair removal wasn’t considered safe for people with melanin-rich skin because early models of lasers weren’t created to differentiate the melanin in the skin from the melanin of the hair follicle. Because of this, people with darker complexions are more prone to side effects such as burns, scarring, hyperpigmentation, dark spots, hypopigmentation and permanent discolouration – all of which can be difficult to treat. The new technology used in some laser machines like class IV XLase Plus Laser Platform allows for higher coverage and targets the melanin pigment of the hair delivering outstanding results for dark skins.
Where to get Laser Hair Removal for Dark skin tone
At all costs, avoid cheap laser spas and salons. Don’t get enticed with amazing Groupon Deals. Too many horror stories with them. Laser Hair Removal is an advanced procedure and the provider you choose should be a professional with extensive experience treating dark skin tones. Ask for recommendations, go through reviews and always ask for Before and After pictures.
Skin Logic is considered one of the best Laser Hair Removal in Harley Street. We are proud to offer the latest non-invasive medical skin care treatments available today. Our resident expert Elena Bodean will guide you to the best laser treatment that is suitable for your skincare condition.
At Skin Logic Laser Clinic in Harley Street, our advanced, medical class IV XLase Plus Laser Platform, delivers Triple Wavelengths Technology, Alexandrite 755, Diode 808, ND:YAG 1064, a unique patented technology, which allows for higher coverage and targets the melanin pigment of the hair delivering outstanding results. The triple laser transfers energy downward, reaching different depths of the follicle to create even follicular damage.
Our professionalism, patient-centric approach and expertise have earned us a reputation for being one of the best laser treatment clinics in Harley Street. So why not book your appointment with one of our laser skin specialists today.
