Nursing Spectrum Drug Handbook 2008

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First Edition, 2007

ISBN 978 81 89940 45 4

Published by: Global Media 1819, Bhagirath Palace, Chandni Chowk, Delhi-110 006 Email: [email protected]

Table of Contents 1. Introduction to Cosmetology 2. How to Become A Cosmetologist 3. How to Apply Foundation 4. Make Up for Eyes 5. Manicure 6. Pedicure 7. Hair 8. Care Tips for Lips 9. Skin and Make Up for Face 10. The Basic Tips for Make Up 11. Grooming Tips for Hands and Feet 12. Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary

Cosmetology Cosmetology is the treatment of skin, hair and nails and includes, but is not limited to, manicures, pedicures, application of artificial nails, special occasion hairstyling, shampooing hair, cosmetic application, body hair removal, chemical hair relaxers or straighteners, permanent waves, coloring and highlighting of hair, and hair extensions or wig treatments. A person who is licensed in cosmetology is called a cosmetologist. A cosmetologist, sometimes called a beautician, a beauty specialist, or an esthetician or aesthetician, is a worker who specializes in giving beauty treatments. The recipients of these treatments are usually women, however there is a growing number of men. A general cosmetologist is proficient in all forms of beauty care and can give hair treatments, facials, skin treatments, and nail treatments. There are specific disciplines of cosmetology that some cosmetologists may specialize in. The different types of special cosmetologists include hair stylists, shampooers, manicurists, estheticians and electrologists. Many cosmetologists specialize in at least one of these categories.

Hair Stylist A hair stylist specializes in the styling of hair, including cutting, chemical perms (relaxers, curls, waves) and color treatments. Hair stylists can also apply hair extensions and weaves. Hair stylists can also shampoo and condition client's hair, though this is not always necessary. Some hair stylists also give recommendations and perform work on wigs and hairpieces. Shampoo Technician The shampoo technician is a sub-category of the hair stylist. A shampoo tech shampoos and conditions a client's hair to create a balanced hair care finish for the hair stylist. Shampoo techs are normally only employed by a corporate or concept salons,and large volume beauty salons that are operated simultaneously.

Manicurist A manicurist specializes in nail care, including manicures, pedicures, and nail extensions.

Esthetician An esthetician, or aesthetician, specializes in the study of skin care, including facial treatments, body wraps, including salt glows, waxing as a form of hair removal, and cosmetic make-up services. Some estheticians also offer full body skin treatments and other related services. In some states, estheticians work with dermatologists to offer more services, including laser hair removal, laser skin resurfacing, and many types of chemical peels.

Electrologist An electrologist offers removal of unwanted hair via an electrolysis machine. As opposed to the hair removal via waxing offered by an esthetician, hair removal via electrolysis is permanent. It has recently been argued that barbers are also cosmetologists who extend the hair stylist speciality with services especially for men, such as shaving.

Becoming a cosmetologist To become a cosmetologist in the United States, a state license is required. Each state mandates the amount of educational hours necessary before a practical exam may be taken. Some states also allow apprenticeships in hair salons under the guidance of a licensed cosmetology teacher, but this is quickly becoming obsolete. Safety guidelines and the threat of lawsuits have changed the salon environment, and kept apprentices away from the chair. These days it is beneficial for anyone interested in cosmetology to pursue the minimum qualifications of hairdressing. Cosmetology licenses must be renewed every four years. Licenses expire on December 31st of the expiration year. In the past, continuing education hours were mandatory, but as of July 1st, 2006 there are no longer mandatory hours. There is a difference between a barber and a cosmetologist. Barbers mainly cut hair of men and women, and shave the facial hair of men. The primary difference between the skills of a barber and cosmetologist, is the way they cut hair. Barbers utilize scissors and comb technique, along with electric clippers to cut hair. Cosmetologists use these tools also, but the primary difference is use of fingers on one hand to hold and stabilze the hair.Barbers are also allowed to use a straight razor to shave their clients, whereas a cosmetologist can only use a razor if it used for cutting hair.

A cosmetologist is concerned with a wide range of services not limited to hair. These include makeup, skincare, and nails. Today, the traditional barber is being replaced by well educated beauty professionals in some areas. Schooling is rigorous, and salons will typically retrain a hair stylist in their own method or program. Today the median income for a hairdresser is $26,000 and is much higher in some areas. A difference also exists between beauty therapy and cosmetology. Beauty therapy involves itself with beautician or aestheticienne work (treatment of skin and nails, including manicures, pedicures, facials, waxing, facial electrical treatments, eyelash tinting, eyebrow tinting and other such treatments), physiatrics or body therapy work (Swedish massage, anatomy and physiology, body electrical treatments, body wraps, body treatments, figure analysis and cellulite treatments), and electrologywork or electrolysis. A cosmetologist instead deals with surface-only treatments. Beauty therapists can be qualified internationally through international bodies like ITEC, CIBTAC and CIDESCO. Most cosmetologists are paid in one of the following three ways: •

•

Commission pay – A percentage of the money made from the provision of services is given back to the cosmetologist as pay. Many paid this way are considered self-employed, and are responsible for taxes. The salon will provide overhead expenses such as products, lights, water, etc. Booth rental – The cosmetologist "rents" a space in the salon, for a monthly fee. This type of pay is defined as self-employment and the cosmetologist is responsible for all products used (perms, color etc.) as well as taxes. In many states, this form of payment is illegal, owing to the difficulty of regulating the individual cosmetologist both legally and business wise. An hourly wage – Many corporate and small chains are going in this direction since it promotes a more controlled product by ensuring that employees are responsible for following company standards and policies.

Tips are another source of income. Skilled cosmetologists can often make a considerable portion of their income from tips from customers. In most states, cosmetology sanitation practices and ethical practices are governed by the state's health department, and a Board of Cosmetology. These entities ensure public safety by regulating sanitation products and practices, and licensing requirements. Consumer complaints are ususally directed to these offices, and investigated from there.

If someone were interested in studying cosmetology, they could take a general cosmetology course and graduate, being able to test to become licensed for all of the things listed above, or they could choose to study only to become a manicurist or cosmetician. There are private schools, and many vocational schools offer Cosmetology to high school students. In addition, there are national organizations that provide educational and professional information.

COSMETOLOGIST Cosmetologists provide beauty services such as fashioning and caring for hair, beautifying the face, grooming hands and nails; and removing unwanted body hair with tweezers, chemicals, or wax.

NATURE OF THE OCCUPATION Cosmetologists may: Shampoo, cut, and style hair Analyze hair to determine its condition Wave or straighten hair Clean, cut, and style wigs Give manicures and shape eyebrows Make appointments Give scalp and facial treatments Provide makeup analysis and apply makeup according to style or customer's preference Keep the work area clean and sanitize all work aids Apply bleach or tint to hair The tools and equipment used may include: * Combs, rollers, and clippers

* Shampoos, rinses, and conditioners

* Curling irons and hair dryers

* Bleaches and tints

* Hair pins, clips and brushes

* Chemical waving solutions

* Infrared or ultraviolet lamps

* Lotions, creams, nail polishes

* Cosmetic preparations for hair and scalp * Electric needles (used by licensed Electrologists only)

OCCUPATIONAL SPECIALTIES Cosmetologists may specialize in these areas: 339.371-010 ELECTROLOGISTS remove hair or blemishes from the skin by use of an electric, round-tipped needle. 332.271-018 HAIR STYLISTS cut and arrange hair according to the latest style or period. 332.361-010 WIG DRESSERS dress wigs and hair pieces according to customers' instructions. 332.271-010 COSMETOLOGISTS fashion and care for hair, beautify the face, and groom hands and nails. 331.674-010 MANICURISTS clean, shape, and polish customers' fingernails and toenails. 331.674-014 FINGERNAIL FORMER Some manicurists extend nails to the desired length by using powder and solvent to form artificial fingernails on the customers' fingers and are called fingernail formers. 187.167-058 BARBER OR BEAUTY SHOP MANAGERS supervise employees, order supplies, keep records, and pay bills. They also handle public relations, advertising, and salon maintenance arrangements. 339.371-014 SCALP-TREATMENT OPERATORS give hair and scalp treatments to customers for hygienic or remedial purposes. They may massage, shampoo, and steam the patron's hair and scalp; apply medication to the scalp; or administer other remedial treatments to relieve such conditions as dandruff or itching scalp. In addition to learning about these specialties, you may also find it helpful to explore the following MOIScript: 067 BARBER

WORKING CONDITIONS AND REQUIREMENTS Cosmetologists usually work independently in clean, well lighted, and wellventilated shops. Many shops are air-conditioned. Most salons are small, having fewer than four employees. More than half of all salons are owner operated.

Most Cosmetologists work a 5-day, 40-hour week that includes weekend and evening work. More than one-third of all Cosmetologists work part- time, since owners are eager to hire workers for the Thursday through Saturday busy period. Overtime work may be necessary during this period and during holiday seasons as well. The salon owner may furnish most of the equipment used by Cosmetologists. However, Cosmetologists may have to supply their own personal equipment such as scissors, rollers, and brushes. Electrologists generally furnish their own equipment, such as an electrolysis machine, a reclining chair, and a stool, at a cost of between $1,000 to $2,000 or more. In some salons, Cosmetologists are able to rent booths. They receive all of their earnings but pay a booth rental fee to the shop owner. Cosmetologists may belong to The United Food and Commercial Workers Union. Members usually pay periodic dues. You Should Prefer: •

Having business contact with people

•

Doing creative work

•

Seeing the physical results of your work

You Should Be Able To: •

Perform a variety of duties which may change often

•

Feel at ease with strangers

•

Adapt color and style to customer's features

•

Make decisions based on personal judgment and hair and skin analyses

•

Recognize differences in colors, shades, and forms

•

Communicate well with customers and take instructions

Math Problem You Should Be Able to Solve: You are doing inventory on hair coloring products. At the beginning of last year, you purchased 16 gallons of blonde coloring, 11 gallons of brown and 6 gallons of red. In the past year, 50% of blonde hair coloring was used, 20% of red hair

coloring was used, and 45% of brown hair coloring was used. How much of blonde, red, and brown hair coloring would you predict that will be needed for next year? Reading Example You Should Be Able to Read and Comprehend: Chemical names and ingredients as chemicals can cause skin irritation or other health problems so it is important to be familiar with the chemicals to ensure the safety of the client. "Methylparaben, Carbomer-940, Propylene Glycol, Polyquaternium-11, Ethanolamine, Panthenol, Behentrimonium Chloride, Ethoxydiglycol, Erythorbic Acid" Writing Example You Should Be Able to Produce: Prepare a written order for hair coloring supplies. Thinking Skill You Should Be Able to Demonstrate: When working with clients and applying chemicals to their hair, it is necessary that you make accurate decisions about amounts to be used and how long the chemicals should stay on the client's hair to ensure the safety of the client. All states require that Cosmetologists be licensed. In Michigan, applicants must have completed at least the 9th grade or the equivalent, be at least 17 years old, have a minimum of 1,500 hours of training in a state-approved school, or have completed a two-year apprenticeship. Applicants must also pass a written and practical exam. To become a limited Cosmetology Instructor, the student must take an additional course of study (500 hours) and be a high school graduate. Applicants for a full Instructor's license need either three years of shop experience or one year of experience and two years of teaching. Applicants for Instructor's licenses must also pass written, practical, and oral exams. Fees for both Cosmetologists and Instructors are $10 for application processing, $25 for the complete examination, and $24 for the 2-year license. Licenses must be renewed every two years. Licensed Cosmetologists must have one year of experience before managing a salon.

EDUCATION AND PREPARATION OPPORTUNITIES

NOTE: A High School Diploma with specific Vocational Education Classes or a Certificate (program of up to one year of study beyond high school) or an Associate Degree (two years of study beyond high school) or an Apprenticeship (usually three to four years of training beyond high school) may qualify a person for this occupation. The following education and preparation opportunities are helpful in preparing for occupations in the MOIScript: ***SCHOOL SUBJECTS*** 0200 ART , 0600 BUSINESS , 0700 CAREERS , 0900 COMMUNICATIONS , 1100

ECONOMICS , 1400 FASHION , 1800 HEALTH & HEALTH CAREERS , 2200 MATH , 2900 SCIENCE , 3300 TECHNOLOGY ***VOCATIONAL EDUCATION PROGRAMS*** 013 COSMETOLOGY Approved vocational education programs in Cosmetology prepare students to care for and beautify hair, complexion, and hands by giving shampoos; styling, setting, cutting, dyeing, and permanently waving hair; and giving facials and manicures. Instruction emphasizes hygiene, sanitation, and customer relations and qualifies students for licensing examinations. Courses in other secondary vocational education programs may be required for completion of this program. High school students should consult their guidance office for more information about the specific requirements of this program at their school or area vocational education center. ****POSTSECONDARY PROGRAM*** 036 COSMETOLOGY Programs in Cosmetology provide opportunities to gain the knowledge and skills necessary for employment providing beauty services primarily to the hair and face of customers. Training programs in Cosmetology are standardized by the Michigan Board of Cosmetology and require 1500 hours of instruction or two years of on-the-job training in a salon supervised by a licensed practitioner. In addition, individuals completing 500 hours in a course for instructors may teach Cosmetology in a beauty school.

Training usually falls under the following course titles: * Personal Development

* Hair Coloring & Waving

* Anatomy & Physiology

* Manicures & Facials

* Hairdressing & Hairstyling

* Salon Management

* Electrology

* Cosmetology Laws and Rules

* Wiggery * Sterilization, Sanitation, & Bacteriology Programs in Cosmetology Instructor Training provide opportunities to gain the knowledge and skills necessary for providing beauty school training to students of cosmetology. Training programs for cosmetology instructors are standardized by the Michigan Board of Cosmetology. Individuals completing the necessary instruction as well as 500 additional hours may teach cosmetology in a beauty school. Training usually falls under the following course titles: * Salon Management

* Cosmetology Laws and Rules

* Hair Coloring and Waving

* Anatomy and Physiology

* Electrology

* Manicuring and Facials

* Hairdressing and Hairstyling

* Wiggery

* Personal Development * Sterilization, Sanitation, and Bacteriology ***APPRENTICESHIP OPPORTUNITIES*** 008 COSMETOLOGIST Some people enter occupations within this MOIScript through an apprenticeship program. An apprenticeship program is a formal program that takes 3 - 5 years to complete with most of the time spent on the job. WHAT IS LEARNED ON THE JOB Sterilization, Sanitation

Scalp Treatments

Shop Cleanliness

Hot Oils, Tonics, Lotions

Shop Etiquette

Finger Waving

Shampoos and Rinses (Lemon-Vinegar)

Marcelling and Curling

Hair Dyeing and Bleaching

Facial Work

Special Shampoos (Hot Oil, Dry Egg)

Manicuring

Special Rinses (Peroxide, Henna, Bluing) WHAT IS LEARNED IN THE CLASSROOM Bookkeeping

Labor Relations

Shop Management

Care of Equipment

Business Management

Customer Treatment and Psychology

Retailing

Professional Ethics

Motivation ***MILITARY TRAINING PROGRAM*** There are no Military Programs related to this MOIScript

OPPORTUNITIES FOR EXPERIENCE AND METHODS OF ENTRY Work experience is available through area skill centers, high school vocational education programs in cosmetology, and state approved private cosmetology schools. Participation in a formal apprenticeship program may provide experience also. School-to-Work opportunities include: informal apprenticeships mentorships job shadow experiences touring a local Cosmetologist employer internships volunteer work with a Cosmetologist employer community service work with an agency

You may find a job as a Cosmetologist through skill centers, high school, and cosmetology school placement offices, or newspaper want ads. Applying directly to employers is the most common method of entering cosmetology. In addition, you should access and search the Internet's on-line employment services sites such as: Michigan Talent Bank America’s Job Bank Classifieds Employment Yahoo! Careers MONSTER.COM Michigan Works! You should also enter an electronic resume on these on-line services.

EARNINGS AND ADVANCEMENT Earnings depend on the size and location of the salon, competition from other salons, quality and speed of a Cosmetologist's work, tipping habits of patrons, and ability to keep regular customers. Cosmetologists are paid either straight commission, base salary plus commission, or straight salary. Most receive tips that increase their total earnings greatly. Nationally (1998), the weekly median income for all Cosmetologists was $313. Beauty shop employees however, worked only an average of 28 hours per week in 1998. Since most Cosmetologists are paid on a commission basis, their earnings may fall anywhere within a range, depending on the number of appointments scheduled in a given week. Experienced, well-established Cosmetologists may earn over $750 during a busy week (1998). Cosmetologists employed by the State of Michigan earned from $506 to $656 per week in 1999. The 1997 graduates of Michigan high school vocational education programs earned a beginning average of $7.47 per hour in jobs related to this occupation in 1998. In many large salons, hotels, and department stores, Cosmetologists receive health and life insurance and other benefits.

Advancement usually comes in the form of higher earnings and increased clientele. Some Cosmetologists advance to become salon managers or shop owners; others become instructors of cosmetology. A few work as inspectors for state cosmetology boards.

EMPLOYMENT AND OUTLOOK Nationally (1996), the employment of Cosmetologists was about 641,500. Employment is expected to grow about as fast as the average for all occupations through the year 2006. Good opportunities will exist for both newcomers and experienced Cosmetologists, including those who seek part-time work. About 42.0% of all Cosmetologists were self-employed. The industry distribution for Cosmetologists looked like this: SIC Code

Industry

% Employed

80723

Beauty Shops

83.9

62531

Department Stores

11.6

Others

4.5

Growth in this occupation is in response to population growth, particularly among middle-aged persons, who are the primary users of cosmetology services, and the rising number of working women. Although people visit Cosmetologists less frequently during hard economic times, rarely are Cosmetologists laid off because of economic down-turns. Opportunities for part-time work will continue to be very good. There are about 23,100 Cosmetologists working in Michigan. Most worked in beauty shops and stores. Others worked in hotels, barber shops, hospitals, and other service businesses. Most Cosmetologists work in or near metropolitan areas. Employment of Cosmetologists is expected to grow about as fast as the average for all occupations through the year 2005. An average of 870 annual openings is expected, with 330 due to growth and 540 due to replacement of those who retire, die, or leave the labor force for other reasons. MICHIGAN'S EMPLOYMENT OUTLOOK TO 2000 EMPLOYMENT AND

NUMBER

PERCENT

PROJECTED YEARLY

OUTLOOK REGIONS

EMPLOYED

GROWTH

JOB OPENINGS

State Total

23,100

17.0%

870

SOURCES OF ADDITIONAL INFORMATION Printed Occupational information is available upon written request from the sources below. U.S. Department of Labor Bureau of Apprenticeship and Training State Director's Office 801 South Waverly, Suite 304 Lansing, MI 48917 1-517-377-1746

Michigan Department of Consumer & Industry Services Bureau of Occ. & Prof. Reg. Board of Cosmetology P.O. Box 30244 Lansing, MI 48909 http://www.michigan.gov/cis/0,1607,7-15410557_12992_13996---,00.html

National Accrediting Commission of Cosmetology Arts & Sciences 901 North Stuart Street, Ste. 90 Arlington, VA 22203 http://naccas.org

National Cosmetology Assoc. 3510 Olive Street St. Louis, MO 63103

Beauticians Local 1058AB 15827 8 Mile Road East Pointe, MI 48021

Federal State and Local Civil Service Offices

Michigan Works!

School/College Placement Offices

SUMMARY PROFILE The occupation of Cosmetologist can be summarized by the following: Growth Outlook:

Faster than average

Salary Potential:

Below average growth potential

GOE Cluster:

Artistic Interest Group (#01)

Work Values:

Work with hands, creativity, and self-expression

SDS Code:

Conventional (carrying out projects in detail, following instructions from customers/clients)

Relationship to

Compiling (receives information from customers/clients about what

Data:

they want to look like)

Relationship to People:

Serving (Attends to the wants and needs of customers/clients)

Relationship to Things:

Precision Working (cuts, trims, and tapers hair using clippers, combs, and scissors)

Famous cosmetologists • • • • • • •

Jonathan Antin Kevyn Aucoin John Frieda Marjorie Joyner Paul Mitchell Vidal Sassoon Madame C.J. Walker

How to Apply Foundation

Difficulty: Moderately Easy Foundation helps to even out skin tone and give the look of flawless skin. Apply in the morning and set with powder to keep a smooth complexion all day.

Instructions • •

STEP 1: Begin with clean hands and a clean face. STEP 2: Apply moisturizer appropriate to your skin type. Let it set a few minutes, particularly if your skin is oily.

•

STEP 3: Camouflage under-eye circles and blemishes with concealer.

•

STEP 4: Select a foundation that is appropriate to your skin type and the coverage you wish to achieve. The color should match your skin, disappearing when blended well. • • •

•

STEP 5: Shake the bottle well to mix the formula. Or, simply open a stick or compact version. STEP 6: Place a small amount of foundation on the back of one hand. Dip your makeup sponge or your middle finger into it. STEP 7: Apply to the center of your face: cheeks, forehead, chin.

STEP 8: Blend out to your hair and jawline until the foundation vanishes. Pay special attention to blending around the nose, mouth and jawline.

•

STEP 9: Set the foundation with loose powder immediately following application.

Tips & Warnings •

Foundation can be spot-applied to the areas where you need to even out your skin tone. Remember to set your face with loose powder after application.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • • • •

Foundation 1 Makeup Sponges Face Powder Makeup Kits Moisturizers Makeup Brushes Concealer

Eyes There's nothing worse than over-the-top makeup. Find out everything you ever wanted to know about how to apply makeup including choosing the best colors for you, common mistakes to avoid, makeup application tips for teens, buying cosmetics and more. Aside from advice on makeup application, eHow also has pointers on a range of topics like treating puffy eyes, fixing chapped lips and plucking your eyebrows

How to Alleviate Puffy Eyes Difficulty: Moderately Easy Article Badges: Late nights, allergies, high salt intake or general stress can cause the unsightly phenomenon of puffy eyes. Try any or all of these remedies.

Instructions •

STEP 1: Splash your entire face with the coldest water you can stand immediately after you wake up. Use either cold tap water or a mixture of cold water and ice cubes in a large bowl or tub. Splash your face for up to 5 minutes, if possible.

•

STEP 2: Prepare two tea bags by soaking them in water, wringing them out and chilling them in the refrigerator or freezer. Once they are chilled, lie down and place the bags on closed eyelids for 5 to 10 minutes.

•

STEP 3: Cut two slices off a cold cucumber, each approximately 1 /2 inch thick. Place a slice on each eyelid for 5 minutes.

•

• • •

STEP 4: Drink lots of water. Puffy eyes often indicate water retention, which you can alleviate by drinking plenty of liquids; this flushes excess salt from your system. STEP 5: Remove contact lenses each night before bed to avoid puffiness caused by lens irritation and drying. STEP 6: Use an aloe-based eye-soothing gel or cream. STEP 7: Avoid rubbing eyes.

Tips & Warnings • •

Don't use a hemorrhoid cream near the eye area'it's unsafe and won't diminish puffiness. If the problem persists, see your doctor. You may be reacting to dust, pets, medication or other irritants, or you may have an underlying medical condition.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • •

Ice cubes Puffy Eye Moisturizers Cucumbers Aloe Vera Ointment Tea Bags

How to Make Your Eyes Look Bigger Difficulty: Easy One could argue that the eyes are the most important feature of the face, since we tend to look at them the most. To make them stand out, follow the tips below.

Instructions

•

STEP 1: Use eyeliner only on the outer rim of the eyelids, not the inner rim. • •

STEP 2: Blend eyeliner with a cotton swab rather than leaving it as a harsh line. STEP 3: Avoid drawing eyeliner on the inner corner of the lower lid; instead, start the line at the beginning of eyelash growth or even closer to the middle of the eye.

•

STEP 4: Use a light shade of eye shadow on the upper lid leading up to the brow, which will open up the eye. A darker color can be used in the fold of the eye. •

STEP 5: Consider wearing false eyelashes to give your eyes a more wide-eyed, innocent look. Be sure to use natural-looking eyelashes.

•

STEP 6: Curl your eyelashes with an eyelash curler before applying mascara to give you the same effect as false eyelashes.

•

STEP 7: Try a black mascara if brown does not bring out your eyes enough.

Tips & Warnings • • • •

Chill your eye pencils before you sharpen them. They'll be less likely to break. Try a fat crayon, which has a creamy-powdered texture, for a liner that is soft and less severe. Try getting a makeover the next time you're at a cosmetic counter. Ask the person who does your makeover to help you emphasize your eyes. Lining your eyes all the way around will make them look smaller, not bigger.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • • • • •

Mascara Waterproof Mascaras Liquid Eyeliners Eye Shadow Brushes Cotton Swabs Eyeliners Eye Shadow Eyelash Curlers

How to Choose the Right Mascara

Difficulty: Easy Mascara is one of the most essential and versatile makeup products: It can be worn alone for a subtle effect, or combined with other makeup for striking and noticeable results.

Instructions •

•

STEP 1: Decide whether you would prefer to use waterproof or water-soluble mascara. Water-soluble is easier to remove without eye makeup remover, thus minimizing the amount of rubbing around the eyes, which can lead to saggy skin. Waterproof mascara is a better choice for athletes, especially swimmers. STEP 2: Choose a mascara color according to your hair color; brunettes should use black to bring out their eyes, but brown mascara will have a more natural effect on fair-haired women. STEP 3: Avoid choosing colored mascara if it is to be worn with a conservative outfit or in the workplace. However, if you're planning to wear it for a fun evening out, feel free to get creative with different colors. STEP 4: Choose the type of mascara brush according to your preference. A straight brush is good for coating the hard-to-reach corner lashes, while a curved brush makes it easier to coat more of your lashes at once.

Tips & Warnings • •

If the mascara you choose is already dried out upon purchase, return it and request a refund. Some beauty consultants suggest replacing your mascara tube every three months.

Overall Things You'll Need • • •

Mascara Waterproof Mascaras Mirrors

How to Select Eye Makeup That Complements Asian Coloring Difficulty: Moderately Easy For many years, Asian beauties defined their eyes with black and brown eye pencils. The modern era offers a subtle twist on these beauty staples and invites experimentation with other shades and mediums.

Instructions • • • •

•

STEP 1: Remember your options. Pencil liners, liquid liners and shadows, alone or in combination, will add definition and sophistication to your eyes. STEP 2: Look for modern shades of brown and black. You're sure to find an espresso with a subtle shimmer or a coal with a glint of sparkle. STEP 3: Go for the color. Asian eyes look stunning in shades of plum, raisin and gray. STEP 4: Consider shadow compacts that offer a gradation of color, if you wish to give your eyes depth. Start with the darker shade at the lash line, finishing with the lightest shade near the brow. STEP 5: Wear black or dark gray mascara. Curl your lashes to open up your eyes, and consider adding a few false lashes at the outside ends for a sexy wink.

Tips & Warnings •

• • • •

Have a makeup artist do your eyes to get an idea of what application and color scheme suit your eye shape and makeup needs. Most local department store makeup counters offer free sessions. Wear long-wearing and waterproof formulas in the summer to avoid running liners or streaking mascaras. Experiment with softer colors in the warmer months - just remember that your eye and hair color may be too deep to support the palest pastel shades. Always keep a steady hand when curling eyelashes to avoid pulling lashes out. Never apply false eyelash glue directly to your eye.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • • • • • • •

Eyebrow Pencils Mascara Eyebrow Powders Liquid Eyeliners Eye Shadow Brushes Waterproof Mascaras Eyeliners Eyebrow Brushes Eye Shadow Eyelash Curlers

How to Use False Eyelashes Difficulty: Moderately challenging

Go for glamour with false eyelashes. Whether you apply a few singles to create a subtle change or full lashes for optimal drama, practice first'this is a tricky beauty enhancer.

Instructions •

•

• • •

•

• •

STEP 1: Decide what look you're seeking. A full set of false eyelashes adds high drama to your evening appearance or returns the eyelashes that may have disappeared due to illness. Little clumps of fake lashes on the outside corners of your eyes create a subtle, sophisticated glamour. STEP 2: Choose a color that complements the occasion. For evening, stick to black (or dark brown if you have pale lashes), which adds drama without requiring mascara. In the daytime, go dark brown (light brown or blond if you have pale lashes) for a natural look. STEP 3: Check their length. Full lashes should follow the natural line of your own lashes. Trim them with sharp scissors to accommodate your needs. STEP 4: Begin with clean eyes, free of makeup or debris. STEP 5: Hold the lashes in your hand and apply a very thin line of glue or adhesive along the base; let it sit for 1 minute. Begin with a minimal amount of glue, adding more if needed. STEP 6: Look into a mirror, either on the wall or placed on a countertop. Apply the false lashes above your eyelashes, as close to your lash line as possible, following its natural curve. STEP 7: Adjust the lashes with your fingertips, tweezers or a toothpick. STEP 8: If you're using lash clumps, place them at the outside corners of your upper lashes (one or two per eye should suffice). Adjust their position with a toothpick, fingers or tweezers. STEP 9: Apply eye makeup. You may find your new lashes dramatic enough without mascara, so take a good look in the mirror first. STEP 10: Practice a few times before your debut. This is a challenging beauty trick to master, but a dress rehearsal should make for a smash opening.

Tips & Warnings • • • •

Remove false eyelashes before you go to bed, using a warm compress or makeup remover. After wearing full lashes, soak them in eyelash-cleaning solution until the next time you wear them. Never pull the lashes from your lids, as you may pull your own lashes out or rip your skin. Never apply glue directly to your eyelids; it may get into your eyes, or you may glue your eye shut.

Overall Things You'll Need •

Toothpicks

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Mascara False Eyelashes Liquid Eyeliners Eye Shadow Brushes Eyeliners Eye Shadow Eyelash Curlers

How to Apply Eye Shadow Difficulty: Moderately Easy Article Badges: Sweep a touch of shadow over your lids to accent eyes. You can define them, add drama, and make them stand out in a few quick steps.

Application on Entire Lid Instructions • • • •

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STEP 1: Prime the eyelids by dusting them with a small amount of loose powder. STEP 2: Select a light base shadow. Using a shadow brush, sweep it across your entire lid, from brow to lash line. STEP 3: Use a medium-toned shade to cover your lower lids. STEP 4: Contour the crease of your eyelid with a dark shade, using a smaller eye shadow brush. This color can also work as an eyeliner (see the next section for instructions). STEP 5: Blend shadow by stroking the lid gently with an eye shadow brush. Don't use your finger'you could wipe off the shadow entirely. STEP 6: Use a cosmetic puff and a little pressed powder to tone down heavy shadow. Shake any excess powder off the puff, then press it gently on your lid.

Eye Shadow to Line the Eyes Instructions • • • •

STEP 1: Choose a medium or dark shadow color to line your eyes. STEP 2: Use a small, flat, angled brush for the application. STEP 3: Stroke the brush over the eye shadow. STEP 4: Start at the inside edge of your upper lid. Angle the brush so that the longest tip follows the shorter end as the brush moves across your lash line. Bring the brush to the outer corner of the eye.

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STEP 5: Create a more dramatic line by wetting the brush before stroking it through the shadow. Mist a small amount of water onto the brush, or dab it into a few drops of water and proceed with the line. The shadow may feel wet as you draw your line, but it will dry quickly.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • •

Thin Eye Shadow Brush Makeup Kits Puff light, medium and dark eye shadow shades Face Powder

Overall Tips & Warnings • •

Don't share eye makeup or tools'you can unknowingly transfer eye infections such as pinkeye (conjunctivitis). If you get shadow in your eyes, flush them gently with tepid water.

Topics Addressed • • • • •

How to put on eye shadow How to use eye shadow Choose eye shadow Apply makeup Use eye makeup

How to Apply Eyeliner Difficulty: Moderate Shape and define your eyes with eyeliner after you've applied eye shadow and before applying mascara. Whether you choose a soft line or a dramatic stroke, eyeliner draws attention.

Instructions •

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STEP 1: Choose an eyeliner appropriate for your eye color. Brown, navy and charcoal accent light eyes well, while brown and plum shades flatter brown eyes. Make sure your liner complements the color of your shadow. STEP 2: Consider the type of look you're after. Pencil eyeliner gives your eyes soft definition, while liquid versions offer precision and drama. You can also moisten dark eye shadow and apply it with a small, flat brush.

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STEP 3: Prepare a cake liner or a dark eye shadow by applying a small amount of water to your brush. Or, if you're using a pencil eyeliner, ensure that you've sharpened the pencil adequately. STEP 4: Move the wet brush gently through your cake liner or dark shadow. Hold the brush or pencil as you would hold a pen. STEP 5: Tilt your head back slightly and bring your eyes to a half-open state. This creates a good angle for application, while allowing you to see what you're doing. STEP 6: Draw a line across the upper lid just above the lashes, from the inside corner to the outside corner of the eye. If you're using liquid liner, allow it to dry before opening your eyes all the way, or the color may transfer into the crease of your eye. STEP 7: If you used a brush or a pencil, soften the look by gently smudging the line with your brush, a cotton swab or your finger. STEP 8: Line the lower lids. Moving from the outside edge inward, draw a line on the outer two-thirds of the lid or more, depending on the look you're going for. Your line should be slightly thicker at the outside corner, becoming thinner as it moves in toward your nose. Using your brush or pencil, lightly stroke the area. If using a liquid liner, apply it in one smooth stroke. Apply less color so your eyes don't appear raccoonlike.

Tips & Warnings • • •

You may find eyeliner, particularly the liquid version, difficult and messy the first few times. Practice and have patience. Wash brushes regularly with makeup remover or a mild gel shampoo. Lining the inside of the lower lid is not recommended'it may cause eye infections, and it greatly increases the risk of getting makeup in your eye.

Overall Things You'll Need • • •

Eyeliners Thin Eye Shadow Brush Liquid Eyeliners

How to Choose an Eye Shadow Color Difficulty: Easy Your eyes are the windows to your soul. Make them come alive with a touch of shadow on the lids.

Instructions

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STEP 1: Shop for shades that complement your skin and eye color. Look for colors that softly contrast with the shade of your eyes - not colors that match them exactly. STEP 2: Choose simple, natural shades. If you opt for bright or trendy colors, be careful; they can look unnatural unless balanced with other suitable tones, and may go out of style as fast as they came in. STEP 3: Buy colors that blend well together. You want your eyes to attract the attention, not any marked lines caused by your shadow. STEP 4: Keep in mind that dark colors will minimize your eyes, while light shades will make them stand out. STEP 5: Consider soft browns and tans with sandy or pink undertones for blue eyes. STEP 6: Wear khaki and brown shades with yellow undertones for green eyes. STEP 7: Accent dark brown and black eyes with brown and charcoal shadows. STEP 8: Experiment. Head to a department store's cosmetic counter and have your eyes made up by a professional. Ask for color combinations that could work for day and evening.

Tips & Warnings • • • •

A little color goes a long way. Begin with a little shadow, and gradually increase it to find the amount that flatters you the most. Shadow can look a lot darker in its palette, so don't let color intensity keep you from trying a shade you like. If you experiment with bright shadows, use them as a wash over the eyelids to add a hint of color. Shadow may irritate your eyes, especially if you wear contact lenses. Tap excess powder from the applicator before applying.

Overall Things You'll Need • •

Eye Shadow Brushes Eye Shadow

How to Curl Your Eyelashes Difficulty: Moderately Easy Article Badges: If you were born with straight or limp lashes, grab an eyelash curler! This rather oddlooking beauty tool lifts lashes and opens up the eyes.

Instructions

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STEP 1: Apply eye shadow and eyeliner, allowing it to dry before curling your lashes. Mascara is always applied after curling the lashes to avoid lash breakage and smearing. STEP 2: Ensure that your lashes are clean and dry. STEP 3: Open the curler and place your upper lashes inside its mouth. Close your eye slightly, then open it; all of the lashes should move into the curler's mouth. Always hold the eyelash curler so that the mouth is parallel to your lashes. STEP 4: Move the curler closer to the eye until the tool comes to the base of the lashes, but not over the skin of the eyelid. STEP 5: Keep the eye open and slowly close the curler. Your eyelashes should fan out evenly across the upper bar. If at any time you feel pinching, readjust the curler. STEP 6: Hold the closed curler for a slow count of five, keeping your hand and face steady. Repeat for additional volume. STEP 7: Repeat with the other eye.

Tips & Warnings • • •

Practice. This beauty enhancer takes a little getting used to. Clean any eye makeup off of the curler regularly and replace the curler pad every few months. Never pull the curler away from your face when it's clamped onto your lashes, as this may pull your lashes out of your lid.

Overall Things You'll Need • •

Eyelash Curlers Mirrors

How to Tweeze Your Eyebrows Difficulty: Moderately Easy Tweezing your eyebrows is one of the most dramatic way to change your face without makeup or surgery. It can make your eyes look larger and give your face a clean, polished look.

Instructions • • •

STEP 1: Sit near a window to get the best light. STEP 2: Wash the area thoroughly so it's not oily. STEP 3: Decide what shape you want for your eyebrows. Styles change; it may help to flip through fashion magazines for ideas.

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STEP 4: Draw in a brow line on your eyebrow with a brow pencil to serve as a guide. Follow the brow's natural line when tweezing eyebrows by conforming to the curve of your upper eyelid. STEP 5: Pull the skin at the outer end of the eyebrow taut against the brow bone, and use the brow bone as an additional guide. STEP 6: Use a pair of angled eyebrow tweezers to remove the hairs below the brow; never shape your brow by plucking above it. Pluck only one hair at a time. STEP 7: Start tweezing your eyebrows in the middle of the eyebrow and tweeze toward the outer end; then go back to the middle and tweeze toward the nose. Your brows should extend a little beyond each corner of your eye. STEP 8: Use a cotton ball or pad soaked in pure tea tree oil or witch hazel to soothe your tweezed brows.

Tips & Warnings • • •

Consider having your brows waxed professionally to get exactly the shape you want. You can then tweeze the strays as they grow in. Habitual tweezing of your eyebrows may make some hairs stop growing permanently, so pluck with caution. There are tweezers on the market that are specially designed for tweezing eyebrows. They cost a bit more but make the experience less painful.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • •

Pure Tea Tree Oils Eyebrow Tweezers Fashion Magazines Witch Hazel Cotton Swabs

How to Apply Mascara Difficulty: Moderate Mascara'one of the most popular beauty items'defines and brings color to the lashes, and highlights and dramatizes eyes. Different formulas can enhance your lashes in different ways.

Instructions •

STEP 1: Consider the types of mascara and select one appropriate for your lashes and the occasion. You have a choice of lengthening, thickening, long-wearing, conditioning and waterproof formulas, among others. For day, you might decide

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to add length, while a night on the town may require a long-wearing or thickening formula. STEP 2: Select a color. If you have blond or red lashes, opt for brown mascara. Darker-lashed women can consider brown for a casual look, and black or brownblack for more pronounced or dramatic lashes. STEP 3: Curl your lashes with an eyelash curler, if desired, and apply all other eye makeup prior to your mascara. STEP 4: Remove the wand from the tube in one pull. Pumping the mascara will push air into the tube, potentially drying out the formula and introducing bacteria into it. STEP 5: Begin with the underside of your upper lashes, moving the brush slowly upward toward the tips of your lashes. Always hold the wand parallel to your eyelid. Roll the brush slowly on the upward stroke to promote separation of the lashes. STEP 6: Allow the first coat of mascara to dry before applying the second coat in the same manner. STEP 7: Use an eyelash comb to separate the wet lashes. Also blot the lashes with tissue paper if necessary to remove excess mascara. STEP 8: Use less mascara for the lower lashes. Begin where the lashes meet the rim of the lower eyelid, and gently stroke downward. STEP 9: Remove any stray mascara around the eye with a cotton swab dipped in a small amount of eye makeup remover.

Tips & Warnings • • •

Contact lens wearers should stick to waterproof mascara formulas, as they break down more slowly, minimizing the chance of any flakes getting into the eyes. Always remove eye makeup thoroughly before going to bed. This will keep lashes healthier and prevent any mascara from getting into your eyes during the night. Apply mascara after eye shadow and eyeliner.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • • • •

Eyelash Comb Waterproof Mascaras Facial Tissues Cotton Swabs Mascara Eye Makeup Removers Eyelash Curlers

How to Fill In Your Eyebrows Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Brows shape your face and enhance your eyes. Your grandma used to pencil them on really thick or really thin. Luckily, you have multiple options and colors to fill your eyebrows subtly and attractively.

Instructions • • • •

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STEP 1: Select a brow filler that's a shade or two lighter than your hair. STEP 2: Begin with freshly plucked or waxed brows. STEP 3: Stroke a thicker brow with a sharp eyebrow pencil using light, feathery strokes, adding color to thinner areas. STEP 4: Define thin brows with a brow powder. Use a flat angled brow brush and color over the natural shape of the brow. Apply to the outer edges first, then move to the area closer to the nose. STEP 5: Groom your brows with a clean mascara brush or similar tool. Move loose hairs into place and blend color for a more natural appearance. STEP 6: Use a brow powder with a waxy base to keep hairs in place throughout the course of the day. Or use a very small amount of brow gel or alcohol-free hair gel on the brush when grooming your brows.

Tips & Warnings •

Look for brow kits, which offer a small mirror, mini tweezers, mini brow brush and brow color all in a convenient compact.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • • •

Eyebrow Brushes Eyebrow Tweezers Eyebrow Pencils Eyebrow Powders Eyebrow Kits Mirrors

How to Select Eye Makeup That Complements African-American Coloring Difficulty: Moderately Easy Your eyes are your face's most prominent feature. Eye shadow contours, eyeliner defines and mascara adds length and drama to your lashes. Your perfect palette depends on the depth of color in your skin, as well as its undertones.

Instructions •

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STEP 1: Determine if your skin has warm or cool undertones. If you have darker skin, accentuate your eyes with shadows and liners whose colors are richer and deeper in intensity. STEP 2: Enhance a warm complexion with shadows that range between soft orange and rust, from honey to cinnamon. Choose liners that are soft to rich brown, and opt for brown or brown- black mascara. STEP 3: Complement cooler complexions with shadows in varying shades of blue, purple and pink. Go with liners that are slate gray to soft purple, and wear black or dark gray mascara. Green flatters skin that has both warm and cool undertones. Blue-greens complement cooler complexions, and brownish, earthy greens enhance warmer ones. STEP 4: Add glamour to a warm complexion with coppery or golden shadow. Pearly purple or silvery blue shadows will glamorize a cooler skin tone.

Tips & Warnings •

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Take some time to experiment with color. Head to your local department store and have a beauty consultant do each eye in a different color scheme to envision your possibilities. The right brow shape will accentuate your eyes and enhance your features. Pencil in thin brows for more definition. Choose long-wearing and hypoallergenic eye makeup formulas to minimize potential eye irritation

Instructions •

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STEP 3: Complement cooler complexions with shadows in varying shades of blue, purple and pink. Go with liners that are slate gray to soft purple, and wear black or dark gray mascara. Green flatters skin that has both warm and cool undertones. Blue-greens complement cooler complexions, and brownish, earthy greens enhance warmer ones. STEP 4: Add glamour to a warm complexion with coppery or golden shadow. Pearly purple or silvery blue shadows will glamorize a cooler skin tone.

Tips & Warnings •

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Overall Things You'll Need • • • • • • • • • •

Eyebrow Pencils Mascara Waterproof Mascaras Liquid Eyeliners Eye Shadow Brushes Makeup Brushes Mirrors Eyeliners Eye Shadow Eyelash Curlers

How to Keep Your Summer Eye Makeup Fresh Difficulty: Moderately Easy If streaking liner and creasing eye shadow have you ready to wipe your eye makeup off by lunch, modify your regimen. Prevention is your best defense in keeping eye makeup fresh during the hot and humid summer months. When your new regimen still can't beat the heat, a few simple touch-ups will keep your eyes free of streaks.

Instructions

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STEP 1: Switch to products that can handle the heat. Look for long-wearing or waterproof mascara, choose eye pencils over liquid liners, and switch to shadows that harden to a cream once applied. STEP 2: Go light. Line the upper lash line, or settle for a sweep of a light shadow. Shadow from lash line to brow is more likely to cake or crease in the heat, and darker colors will be more apparent if they bleed. STEP 3: Skip eyeliner and mascara on the lower lashes. It's likely to streak in the sweaty under-eye area. STEP 4: Set eye makeup with a light dusting of loose powder. This will help absorb any moisture that may cause eye makeup to melt. STEP 5: Use a non-powdered blotting paper to remove any under-eye perspiration when you do notice streaking. Wipe away any eye makeup with a clean cotton swab. STEP 6: Reapply faded makeup sparingly.

Tips & Warnings • • •

Limit yourself to one coat of mascara. Consider permanent makeup. It's now possible to have your brows and lash line permanently tinted. Do not apply additional mascara to the lashes during the day. This may lead to a caked or clumpy look.

How to Make Your Mascara Last Longer Difficulty: Easy Sick of replacing your mascara so often because it dries up and becomes difficult to use? Follow these steps to keep your mascara easy to use and your lashes beautiful.

Instructions

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STEP 1: Choose a mascara that has a thin brush, which means that the opening to the tube will be small and less air will get in. When air enters the tube, it dries out the mascara.

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STEP 2: Avoid pumping the mascara wand too vigorously during use. This allows air to get into the tube.

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STEP 3: Add one drop of water to the tube of dry mascara if necessary. It's not a great idea, but in an emergency, you will be able to get more out of the tube by using this trick.

Tips & Warnings • •

Make sure you only use the water trick on water-soluble mascaras, not waterproof mascaras. If you've had your mascara longer than 3 months, it is probably a good idea to replace it and start using these tricks with a new tube.

Overall Things You'll Need • • •

Mascara Waterproof Mascaras Mirrors

Distilled Waters

Manicure

Example of a French Manicure A manicure is a cosmetic beauty treatment for the fingernails and hands enjoyed by both sexes. A manicure can treat just the hands, just the nails, or both. A standard manicure usually includes filing and shaping of the nails and the application of polish. Some speciality manicures, such as the French Manicure, may also be offered. Treatments for hands usually include soaking in a softening substance and application of hand lotion. A similar treatment performed on the feet is a pedicure. The word "manicure" comes from the Latin manus, meaning "hand," and cura meaning "care". Various services for nails can be provided, such as the application of artificial nails such as nail tips, acrylics and artificial nail gels. A manicurist can also apply treatments to real nails, such as filing, polishing, and painting. Fancier manicures include painting pictures or designs on the nails or applying small decals or imitation jewels. In many areas, manicurists are regulated and must be licensed. Since the skin is being manipulated and sometimes trimmed, and because there is a risk of infection when tools are used on multiple people, proper sanitation is critical.

History It began 5000 years ago. In India, henna was used for manicure. The term mehendi, used synonymously for henna, derives from the Sanskrit mehandika. Much of the modern

revival of henna derives from its popularity in India. Cixi, dowger empress of China, was said to wear very long artificial nails.

Preparation A manicurist prepares for a customer by ensuring that the working area and tools are sanitized and conveniently located. This might include sanitizing the working surface, such as a table top, placing clean metal implements into a jar with sanitizing liquid, and having sanitized towels and new tools such as orange sticks and emery boards arranged neatly near the working area. Soaking liquids are not reused, and all water used can be boiled or otherwise sanitized. These preparations prevent the possible spread of disease. Proper lighting is also important.

Services provided There is a wide variety of services available from manicurists, and each manicurist might have a specialty. A reputable manicurist ensures that a client knows what services are available and explains the procedures

Paraffin treatments Sometimes the hands can be dipped in melted paraffin or wax. This is meant to impart heat to the hand for the purposes of relaxing the skin and making it better able to absorb lotion, which is sometimes rubbed on the hand before submersion into the paraffin. The hand is usually dipped more than once to allow a thicker wax coat to form, making the coating stay warm for longer and less likely to break or tear prematurely. After the hands have been dipped in the wax, they are wrapped in either plastic or tin foil, then covered with cloth to retain warmth.

Hot oil manicure A hot oil manicure is a specific type of manicure that cleans and neatens the cuticles and softens them with oil. It is more suitable for males to get, compared with other types of manicures.

Common manicure tools and supplies

Tools • • • • • • • • •

Bowl of warm water or fingerbath Nail clippers Cuticle knife Cuticle nippers Cuticle pusher/Hoof stick (either wood, metal or plastic with rubber tip) Nail file/emery board Nail buffer Nail scissors Nail brush

Supplies • • • • •

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Cuticle remover Cuticle oil Cuticle cream Massage lotion Nail polish o Base coat polish & ridge filler polish o Color varnish o Top coat or sealant Nail polish remover or nail polish remover wipes Hand cream Sanitizing spray/towels Cotton balls/pads Hand towels

How to Paint Ladybugs on Your Nails Difficulty: Easy Turn a run-of-the-mill manicure into something unique.

Instructions • • • • • •

STEP 1: Paint your nails solid red with nail polish. STEP 2: Wait for them to dry completely. STEP 3: Paint the tips of your nails black using nail polish. STEP 4: Allow your nails to dry. STEP 5: Dip a toothpick into black nail polish and paint a thin, straight line down the center of each nail. STEP 6: Dip again and make a few black dots on each side of the lines.

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STEP 7: Finish your nails off by dipping a toothpick into white nail polish - or another light color - and painting two dots per nail to make eyes for your ladybugs.

Tips & Warnings • •

If you use multiple coats of nail polish, allow each coat to dry completely. A clear top coat will help your artwork last longer.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • •

Nail Files red, white and black nail polishes Nail Polish Remover Toothpicks Nail Strengthening Polish

How to Care for Your Fingernails Difficulty: Easy The easiest route to healthy nails is through a well-planned regimen of diet and grooming. Eat the correct foods and protect your hands from environmental stress for strong nails.

Instructions •

STEP 1: Incorporate the recommended daily allowance of vitamin B, calcium and protein into your diet.

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STEP 2: Take a daily multivitamin to ensure that you are getting the proper amounts of other vitamins. •

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STEP 3: Wear rubber gloves whenever you use cleaning products, wash dishes or work in your garden to protect your nails from chemicals and dirt.

STEP 4: Moisturize nail beds regularly with a nondrying nail lotion. Rub the lotion over the entire nail bed at least once a day.

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STEP 5: Trim cuticles once each week. Soften cuticles with a specialized cuticle cream, then trim carefully with a cuticle clipper.

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STEP 6: Clip your nails regularly in a rounded or squared shape. The pointier the tip of your fingernail, the more likely it is to break off. •

STEP 7: Give your nails a break from polish as often as possible. The more time your nails spend in the nude, the less they will dry and chip.

Tips & Warnings • •

Avoid biting your nails. Biting is a surefire way to create unhealthy and unsightly nails. If you develop ridges along the base of your nail bed, increase your intake of vitamin B.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Washcloths Manicure Scissors Nail Files Cuticle Creams Nail Buffers Nail Brushes Multivitamins Nail Clippers Manicure Kits Nail Polishes Nail Polish Remover Nail Cleaners Rubber Gloves

How to Fix Chipped Nail Polish Difficulty: Easy Article Badges: If your manicure is more than a week old when it chips, it's probably time for a new one. Otherwise you can easily remedy chips that occur between manicure sessions.

Instructions • • • • • •

STEP 1: Moisten your index fingertip with nail-polish remover on the hand that doesn't have the chipped nail. STEP 2: Rub this finger on the chipped area to smooth away any globs or rough edges. STEP 3: Let it dry and then brush a small amount of nail polish on the chipped area. STEP 4: After the polish has dried, apply a clear coat of nail polish or polish sealant to prevent future chipping. STEP 5: Wipe the polish residue off your fingertip with a cotton ball and nailpolish remover. STEP 6: Avoid fast-drying polishes, which tend to chip more easily.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • •

Nail-polish Remover Cotton Ball Clear Nail Polish Or Polish Sealant Nail Polish

Overall Tips & Warnings • •

Use toothpaste to remove ink stains from polish. Acetone-based nail-polish removers dry out nails, which can cause them to split or break.

How to Trim Your Toenails

Difficulty: Easy Sometimes your toenails get a bit longer than you think they should. Time for a trim! Do it right: Get clippers, a file and some lotion or oil and get started.

Things You'll Need • • • •

Toenail Clippers Nail file (preferably metal) Lotion or oil A private place

Instructions • •

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STEP 1: Make sure you're with very close friends or ALONE. No one wants to see you trim your toenails. STEP 2: Start by trimming horizontally: First the right or left half, then the other. Don't trim half, then pull the rest off -- this creates uneven and unhealthy toenails. Trim all toenails in this fashion. When done, each nail should have a somewhat pointy peak in the middle. STEP 3: File down the peak, and the corners. Repeat this step with all toenails. STEP 4: Brush off any file dust and lightly wipe or wash your toes with water to clean them. STEP 5: Rub a very little bit of lotion or oil on each nail and surrounding bed to moisturize them.

Overall Tips & Warnings • •

Try not to leave any sharp corners on a toenail. It's easy for a corner to pierce skin around the nail or cut through a sock or stocking. Make sure your clippers are clean -- no one likes a visit from the Fungus Fairy.

Nail clipper

A lever type nail clipper with a file A nail clipper or nail trimmer is a mechanical device used to trim fingernails and toenails. Nail clippers are usually made of metal. Two common varieties are the plier type and the lever type. Both are common household objects. Most nail clippers usually come with another tool attached, which is used to clean the dirt out of nails. A nail trimmer often has a miniature file fixed to it to allow rough edges of nails to be manicured. Nail clippers occasionally come with a pocket knife or a nail catcher. The nail trimmer consists of a head which may be concave or convex. Specialized nail trimmers which have convex clipping ends are intended for trimming toenails, while concave clipping ends are for fingernails. The cutting head may be manufactured to be parallel or perpendicular to the principal axis of the clipper. Cutting heads which are parallel to the principal axis are made to address accessibility issues involved with cutting toenails. Nail clippers may also be entirely enclosed in a flexible plastic so that it appears less threatening to children, especially those who are afraid of being cut by the clippers. These are manufactured as "child-proof" nail clippers.

Pedicure

Pedicure A pedicure is a way to improve the appearance of the feet, and their nails. It basically is a manicure for the feet. The word pedicure comes form the Latin words pes, which means foot, and cura, which means care. It also means the care of the feet and toenails. A pedicure can be helpful because it can prevent nail diseases and nail disorders.

History The history of pedicures dates back to ancient Egypt. A carving of a pharaoh's official was noted as representing pedicures and manicures.

Tools • • • • • • • • • • •

Towels Cotton balls Toenail clippers Lotion Cuticle cream Cuticle pusher Orangewood sticks Acetone Antibacterial soap Foot bath White block buffer

Things You Need To Know • •

Structure of the nail Composition of cosmetics used in a pedicure

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Give effective pedicure Care for clients' problems or concerns Distinguish nail disorders that can or can't be treated Sanitation and disinfectant procedures The difference between nail diseases and nail disorders

Nail Cosmetics

care of the toenails • • • • • • • • • • •

Base coat Cuticle creams Cuticle oil Cuticle remover Dry nail polish Liquid nail polish Nail bleach Nail conditioner Nail dryer Polish thinner Polish remover

Parts Pedicures contain different parts. • • • • •

Filing Cuticle nipping - clipping excess cuticle around nail. When clipping cuticles, care needs to be taken to avoid infection. Cleansing the nails - wash nails in finger bath with warm, soapy water. Buffing - shaping of the nails. Polishing the nails

Foot Massage Feet, leg, hand,and arm massages are an important part of pedicures and manicures. This technique helps to relax the person having the treatment.

Foot reflexology has been widely used while giving the foot massage. Practitioners may also massage with hot stones in their hands, and use special creams that have menthol in them to help rejuvenate the foot.

Typical Feet Disorders •

Athlete's Foot

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Ingrown toenails

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Fungus

Safety Rules • • • • • • • •

Always sanitize your hands before you start Keep all containers covered and labeled Keep hands dry when handling containers Avoid dropping sharp implements Dull sharp edges with emery board Do not file nails too deeply Avoid excessive friction when nail buffing Apply antiseptic if skin is broken

Hair

Young Girl Fixing her Hair, by Sophie Gengembre Anderson Hair is a filamentous outgrowth of dead cells from the skin, found mainly in mammals. In some species, it is absent at certain stages of life. It projects from the epidermis, though it grows from hair follicles deep in the dermis. So-called "hairs" (trichomes) are also found on plants. The projections on arthropods, such as insects and spiders are actually insect bristles. The hair of non-human species is commonly referred to as fur. There are varieties of cats, dogs, and mice bred to have little or no visible hair.

Human hair Body hair In contrast to most mammals, humans do not have all-encompassing, thick hair on their bodies. While other great apes have relatively thin body hair and some bare areas, this is exaggerated in humans: coverage is so sparse that it can give the appearance of completely bare skin (hence the somewhat misleading term "naked ape"). Historically, several ideas have been advanced to explain the reduction of human body hair. All were faced with the same problem that there is no fossil record of human hair to back up the conjectures nor to determine exactly when the feature evolved. Savanna Theory suggests that nature selected humans for shorter and thinner body hair as part of a set of adaptations to the warm plains of the savanna, including bipedal locomotion and an

upright posture. There are several problems with this theory, not least of which is that cursorial hunting is used by other animals that do not show any thinning of hair. Another theory for the thin body hair on humans proposes that Fisherian runaway sexual selection played a role here (as well as in the selection of long head hair). Possibly this occurred in conjunction with neoteny, with the more juvenile appearing females being selected by males as more desirable; see types of hair and vellus hair. The Aquatic Ape Hypothesis posits that sparsity of hair is an adaptation to an aquatic environment, but it has little support amongst scientists and very few aquatic mammals are, in fact, hairless. In reality, there may be little to explain. Humans, like all primates, are part of a trend toward sparser hair in larger animals; the density of human hair follicles on the skin is actually about what one would expect for an animal of our size. The outstanding question is why so much of human hair is short, underpigmented vellus hair rather than terminal hair.

Head hair The most noticeable part of human hair is the hair on the head, which can grow longer than on most mammals and is more dense than most hair found elsewhere on the body. The average human head has about 100,000 hair follicles. Its absence is termed alopecia, commonly known as baldness. Anthropologists speculate that the functional significance of long head hair may be adornment, a byproduct of secondary natural selection once other somatic hair had been lost. Another possibility is that long head hair is a result of Fisherian runaway sexual selection, where long lustrous hair is a visible marker for a healthy individual (with good nutrition, waist length hair—approximately 1 meter or 39 inches long—would take around 80 months, or just under 7 years, to grow). This would explain why long head hair (in both sexes) is viewed as attractive even now.

Types of hair

Traditional Hopi hair style, photo by Edward S. Curtis, 1922 Humans have three different types of hair: • • •

Lanugo, the fine hair that covers nearly the entire body of fetuses Vellus hair, the short, fine, "peach fuzz" body hair that grows in most places on the human body in both sexes Terminal hair, the fully developed hair, which is generally longer, coarser, thicker, and darker than vellus hair

Growth

Distribution of androgenic hair on female and male body

Different parts of the human body feature different types of hair. From childhood onward, vellus hair covers the entire human body regardless of sex or race except in the following locations: the lips, the nipples, the palms of hands, the soles of feet, certain external genital areas, the navel and scar tissue. The density of the hairs (in hair follicles per square centimeter) varies from one person to another. The rising level of male hormones (androgens) during puberty causes a transformation process of vellus hair into terminal hair on several parts of the male body. The hair follicles respond to androgens, primarily testosterone and its derivatives; the hair in these locations can be thus termed androgenic hair. The rate of hair growth and the weight of the hairs increase. However, different areas respond with different sensitivities. As testosterone level increases, the sequence of appearance of androgenic hair reflects the gradations of androgen sensitivity. The pubic area is most sensitive, and heavier hair usually grows there first in response to androgens.

Layers of an individual hair Areas on the human body that develop terminal hair growth due to rising androgens in both sexes, men and women, are the underarms and the pubic area. In contrast, normally only men grow androgenic hair in other areas. There is a sexual dimorphism in the amount and distribution of androgenic hair, with males having more terminal hair (particularly facial hair, chest hair, abdominal hair and hair on legs and arms) and females having more vellus hair, which is less visible. The genetic disposition determines the sexdependent and individual rising of androgens and therefore the development of androgenic hair.

Increased body hair on women following the male pattern can be referred to as hirsutism. An excessive and abnormal hair growth on the body of males and females is defined as hypertrichosis. Considering an individual occurrence of body hair as abnormal does not implicitly depend on medical indications but also on cultural and social attitudes. Individual hairs alternate periods of growth and dormancy. During the growth portion of the cycle, hair follicles are long and bulbous, and the hair advances outward at about a third of a millimeter per day. After three to six months, body hair growth stops (the pubic and armpit areas having the longest growth period). The follicle shrinks and the root of the hair grows rigid. Following a period of dormancy, another growth cycle starts, and eventually a new hair pushes the old one out of the follicle from beneath. Head hair, by comparison, grows for a long duration and to a great length before being shed. The rate of growth is approximately 1.25 centimeters, or about 0.5 inches, per month.

Texture

A person with extremely curly hair Hair texture is measured by the degree of which one's hair is either fine or coarse, which in turn varies according to the diameter of each individual hair. There are usually four major types of hair texture: fine, medium, coarse and wiry. Within the four texture ranges hair can also be thin, medium or thick density and it can be straight, curly, wavy or kinky. Hair conditioner will also alter the ultimate equation and can be healthy, normal, oily, dry, damaged or a combination. Also, an expert hairdresser can change the hair texture with the use of special chemicals.

An older Hmong man with gray hair

Aging Older people tend to develop grey hair because the pigment in the hair is lost and the hair becomes colourless. Grey hair is considered to be a characteristic of normal aging. The age at which this occurs varies from person to person, but in general nearly everyone 75 years or older has grey hair, and in general men tend to become grey at younger ages than women. It should be noted however, that grey hair in itself is not actually grey - the grey head of hair is a result of the contrast between the dark and white/colorless hair forming an overall 'grey' appearance to the observer. As such, people starting out with very pale blond hair usually develop white hair instead of grey hair when aging. Red hair usually doesn't turn grey with age; rather it becomes a sandy color and afterward turns white. In fact, the gray or white appearance of individual hair fibers is a result of light scattering from air bubbles in the central medula of the hair fiber. Some degree of scalp hair loss or thinning generally accompanies aging in both males and females, and it's estimated that half of all men are affected by male pattern baldness by the time they are 50. The tendency toward baldness is a trait shared by a number of other primate species, and is thought to have evolutionary roots. It is commonly claimed that hair and nails will continue growing for several days after death. This is a myth; the appearance of growth is actually caused by the retraction of skin as the surrounding tissue dehydrates, making nails and hair more prominent.

Pathological impacts on hair

Drugs used in cancer chemotherapy frequently cause a temporary loss of hair, noticeable on the head and eyebrows, because they kill all rapidly dividing cells, not just the cancerous ones. Other diseases and traumas can cause temporary or permanent loss of hair, either generally or in patches. The hair shafts may also store certain poisons for years, even decades, after death. In the case of Col. Lafayette Baker, who died July 3, 1868, use of an atomic absorption spectrophotometer showed the man was killed by white arsenic. The prime suspect was Wally Pollack, Baker's brother-in-law. According to Dr. Ray A. Neff, Pollack had laced Baker's beer with it over a period of months, and a century or so later minute traces of arsenic showed up in the dead man's hair. Mrs. Baker's diary seems to confirm that it was indeed arsenic, as she writes of how she found some vials of it inside her brother's suitcoat one day.

Width According to The Physics Factbook, the diameter of human hair ranges from 17 to 181 µm.

Cultural attitudes Head hair

People from different cultures have invented various ways to arrange, or "style," their hair. The remarkable head hair of humans has gained an important significance in nearly all present societies as well as any given historical period throughout the world. The haircut has always played a significant cultural and social role. In ancient Egypt head hair was often shaved, especially amongst children, as long hair was uncomfortable in the heat. Children were often left with a long lock of hair growing from one part of their heads, the practice being so common that it became the standard in Egyptian art for artists to depict children as always wearing this "sidelock". Many adult men and women kept their heads permanently shaved for comfort in the heat and to keep the head free of lice, while wearing a wig in public. In ancient Greece and ancient Rome men and women already differed from each other through their haircuts. The head hair of women was long and pulled back into a chignon. Many dyed their hair red with henna and sprinkled it with gold powder, often adorning it with fresh flowers. Men’s hair was short and even occasionally shaved. In Rome hairdressing became ever more popular and the upper classes were attended to by slaves or visited public barber shops.

Maasai warriors with their traditional hair styling The traditional hair styling in some parts of Africa also gives interesting examples of how people dealt with their head hair. The Maasai warriors tied the front hair into sections of tiny braids while the back hair was allowed to grow to waist length. Women and nonwarriors, however, shaved their heads. Many tribes dyed the hair with red earth and grease; some stiffened it with animal dung. Contemporary social and cultural conditions have constantly influenced popular hair styles. From the 17th Century into the early 19th Century it was the norm for men to have

long hair often tied-back into a ponytail. Famous long-haired men include Oliver Cromwell, George Washington and during his younger years Napoleon Bonaparte had a long and flamboyant head of hair. Before World War I men generally had longer hair and beards. The trench warfare between 1914 and 1918 exposed men to lice and flea infestations, which prompted the order to cut hair short, establishing a norm that has persisted. However it has also been advanced that short hair on men has been enforced as a means of control, as shown in the military and police and other forces that require obedience and discipline. Additionally, slaves and defeated armies were often required to shave their heads, in both pre-medieval Europe and China. Growing and wearing long hair is a lifestyle practiced by millions worldwide. It was almost universal among women in Western Culture until World War One. Many women in conservative Pentecostal groups abstain from trimming their hair after conversion (and some have never had their hair trimmed or cut at all since birth). The social revolution of the 1960s led to a renaissance of unchecked hair growth. Hair length is measured (in inches or centimeters) from the front scalp line on the forehead up over the top of the head and down the back to the floor. Standard milestones in this process of hair growing are classic length (midpoint on the body, where the buttocks meet the thighs), waist length, hip length, knee length, ankle/floor length and even beyond. It takes about seven years, including occasional trims, to grow one's hair to waist length. Terminal length varies from person to person according to genetics and overall health. Large internet communities are set up to encourage and support a long hair lifestyle. Hair style can also surpass personal expression and enter the realm of artist expression. A thriving salon culture in Detroit gave rise to the Detroit Hair Wars in 1991. Using the medium of human and synthetic hair, elaborate fantastical head pieces, such as spider webs, flowers and flying "hair-y copters", have been made by participants. The nationally touring, spectacular showcase redefines the limits of head hair.

Body hair The attitudes towards hair on the human body also vary between different cultures and times. In some cultures profuse chest hair on men is a symbol of virility and masculinity; other societies display a hairless body as a sign of youthfulness.

In ancient Egypt, people regarded a completely smooth, hairless body as the standard of beauty. An upper class Egyptian woman took great pains to ensure that she did not have a single hair on her body, except for the top of her head (and even this was often replaced with a wig). The ancient Greeks later adopted this smooth ideal, considering a hairless body to be representative of youth and beauty. This is reflected in Greek female sculptures which do not display any pubic hair. Islam stipulates many tenets with respect to hair, such as the covering of hair by women and the removal of armpit and pubic hair (see five physical characteristics traits of fitrah). In Western societies it became a public trend during the late twentieth century, particularly for women, to reduce or to remove their body hair. The bikini fashion as well as the sexual imagery in advertising and movies are major reasons for this development. This media trend began in the United States and is becoming ever more popular throughout other Western countries. It is also beginning to gain currency among men, among whom shaving or trimming one's body hair is sometimes jokingly called "manscaping".

Hair as business factor Hair care for humans is a major world industry with specialized tools, chemicals and techniques. The business of various products connected with human hair has become an important industrial and financial factor in Western societies

Care Consider your bad hair days a thing of the past. People will think you've just stepped out of a salon, thanks to eHow's great hair styling tips. Choose the right highlights, get rid of the frizz, lose the dandruff, trim that nose hair or achieve that perfectly groomed beard with these helpful hair care tips. There's even hair care information for moms caring for babies and toddlers. Just click on a topic below.

Articles in Care 1. How to Care For Curly, Frizzy Hair Did you just stick your finger into an electrical outlet? Is your hair two feet taller than what it was yesterday? You may have caught a case of the frizz, and you need to read below.

2. How to Choose a Shampoo Shampoo not only washes your hair, it keeps it healthy and strong. Make sure you're using the best shampoo for your hair type. 3. How to Choose Hair Products For Men The secret to a great looking head of hair is all in the hair products you use. For easy styling and great results use this guide to choose the right styling products for your hair. 4. How to Get Healthy Hair No matter if your hair is worn long, short or somewhere in between, healthy hair is always in fashion. Learn how to get healthy hair and how to fake it until it gets there. 5. How to Wash a Wig It's suggested that you wash your wig (either synthetic or human-hair) after every 12 to 15 wearings. You can buy products made especially for wigs - including brushes, combs, picks, shampoo and conditioner - in a wig or beauty supply store. 6. How to Improve Hair and Nails Through Your Diet Our physical traits are mostly determined by genetics, but you can help nature along with changes in your diet. To get your hair and nails in the best shape possible from the inside out, read on. 7. How to Choose the Perfect Blond Hair Color They say blonds have more fun - but only if they choose the right shade of blonde. Here you’ll learn the right shade of blonde for your skin coloring, along with the latest trends in getting that perfect blond hair color. 8. How to Choose the Right Hairbrush You'll look well-groomed if you brush your hair, and brushing also distributes oils and helps keep your hair shiny. Follow these tips to choose the right hairbrush for your hair type and style. 9. How to Deep-Condition Hair Combat the damage of chemical treatments, coloring, heat styling and environmental pollution by deep-conditioning your hair on a regular basis. This will help replenish lost moisture and keep locks shiny and resilient.

10. How to Design a Hairstyle for Your Natural Hair You’ve seen the return of the Afros this season, below are the steps to get the look. 11. How to Wash a Toddler's Hair Toddlers have very strong ideas about what they like and dislike ' unfortunately, hair-washing is often one of the things they don't like. Here's how to get them clean with a minimum of fuss. 12. How to shave your own head Ever wanted to shave your head? It's very easy to do! 13. How to Select Hair-Care Products Are you finding your bad-hair days outnumber the good ones? It could be due to your hair-care products. You may be using one made for hair that's a different texture than yours. Consult this chart, then head to the salon or drugstore. Soon your tresses will go from terrible to terrific. 14. How to Wash Dreadlocks Your hair-care regime will change the moment you begin to dread your hair. Line up all your current products in a row and see if they pass the test. 15. How to Care for a Wig A human-hair wig is a bit more trouble than a synthetic one, but keeping any wig in good condition is easy if you use products especially formulated for wigs. 16. How to Choose a Hair Conditioner Your choice of conditioner depends most on your hair type (unlike your choice of shampoo, which depends on your scalp type). Choosing the right conditioner can help you avoid greasy, limp locks or a dry, frizzy head of hair. 17. How to Keep Your Hair Stylist Happy! I have a seven year relationship with my hair stylist and I know how to keep her happy. Once you’ve found the perfect stylist checkout my tips to keep the peace. 18. How to Trim a Mustache

There are many ways to groom a mustache. Decide how you want yours to look before following these instructions. 19. How to Trim a Beard If you don't have a beard trimmer, go buy one at the nearest drugstore. In the meantime, follow these steps for well-groomed facial hair. 20. How to Choose Shampoo for Your Baby With so many brands and product types, it's difficult to know which shampoo is best. The following steps will help you make the right choice for your baby. 21. How to Keep Hair Healthy During the Summer Months Summer means fun in the sun. Lazy days at the beach, lounging poolside, jetting around town with the top down and enjoying a barbecue with friends. But if you don't protect your hair from the elements, your dazzling 'do may be brittle, dry and plagued with split ends come fall. 22. How to Trim the Back of Your Neck You can solve one of life's pesky little problems with a few quick strokes of a razor.

How to Care For Curly, Frizzy Hair Did you just stick your finger into an electrical outlet? Is your hair two feet taller than what it was yesterday? You may have caught a case of the frizz, and you need to read below.

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STEP 8: Believe it or not, grease, mousses and gels make caring for this kind of hair harder!! Chemical build-ups require more washing than is healthy. STEP 9: If you must use products, use high-quality, health-food store or salon products that leave little residue. STEP 10: Do not brush, unless you want a 'fro.

How to Choose a Shampoo Shampoo not only washes your hair, it keeps it healthy and strong. Make sure you're using the best shampoo for your hair type.

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STEP 1: Identify your hair type. Is it oily? Normal? Consult your hairdresser if necessary. STEP 2: Feel lucky if you have normal hair. Choose a shampoo that is made specifically for normal hair, and make sure it's meant for daily or every-other-day washes. STEP 3: Choose a gentle shampoo that is made specifically for oily hair and/or for daily use, if your hair gets greasy. Make sure it has ingredients like tea tree oil, sage oil and chamomile. STEP 4: Opt for a moisturizing shampoo for curly hair, and a protein-based shampoo for kinky hair. STEP 5: Read the label on a protein-based shampoo and make sure that protein is listed as one of the first ingredients, followed by shea butter, glycerin, sulfur or carotene. STEP 6: Use a color-safe shampoo and conditioner every day for hair that's been dyed, bleached or highlighted.

How to Choose Hair Products For Men Cindy McKie is a former professional hairstylist with over 10 years experience in the industry. She now works as a freelance writer. The secret to a great looking head of hair is all in the hair products you use. For easy styling and great results use this guide to choose the right styling products for your hair.

Hair Products for Thick Hair Instructions •

STEP 1: Thick hair needs strong enough products to stand up to all that hair. A firm holding styling gel will give strong hold to thick hair.

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STEP 2: For a wet look, apply a strong hold styling gel to damp hair and style as desired. Let hair dry naturally. For a softer look, blow-dry hair after applying the gel. STEP 3: For thick and curly hair, use a gel designed specifically for curly hair. These gels will have a humidity control agent that will keep frizz at bay. STEP 4: For a firm but flexible hold on thick hair, a strong hold molding paste works well. These hair products won’t dry stiff and hair can be restyled throughout the day. STEP 5: Strong hold pomade will also give you a touchable hairstyle. Look for the high gloss variety to add shine to your hair.

Hair Products for Medium Textured Hair Instructions • • • • •

STEP 1: A light to medium hold styling gel will provide good hold whether you’re blow drying your hair into a style or just want a firm wet look. STEP 2: Pomade works great for a flexible hold without any stiffness to it. Apply to both slightly damp or dry hair and style as desired. STEP 3: Liquid gels are perfect for those wanting a sleek or wet look. They disperse in the hair easily and aren’t as heavy as traditional gels. STEP 4: A styling paste gives a fluffy styling finish for those men wanting to boost the body in their hair. STEP 5: Mousse is a tried and true favorite hair product for both hold and body. Mousse will give a wet look if left in damp hair or the hair can be blown dry for a softer and fuller style.

Hair Products for Fine or Thin Hair Instructions • •

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STEP 1: Spray gels work great for this type of hair. You can get all the hold you want without the risk of weighing down your hair as with traditional gels. STEP 2: A styling paste is also a great hair product for thin or fine hair. It will fluff up fine hair and give soft hold. Use this product sparingly—a little bit will go a long way. STEP 3: A texturizing gel or styling cream designed specifically for thin or fine hair will give body to limp hair without weighing it down. For best results, concentrate on applying the product to the roots of the hair and blow-dry for maximum thickening. STEP 4: Mousse is also a great product to boost fine or thin hair. Apply a small amount to damp hair and blow dry as desired. STEP 5: For fine hair that won’t stay in place, try a light misting of flexible hold hair spray. These sprays will prevent flyaway hair but won’t feel stiff or sticky.

Hair Products for Curly Hair Instructions •

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STEP 1: For men who like to show off their curls, try a curl boosting spray gel. The spray will enhance your curls and give them structure, as well as keep your curls from going frizzy. STEP 2: There are also curl-enhancing pomades which will give definition to curls as well as a healthy looking gloss to hair. STEP 3: For men who want to tame their curls, a smoothing serum or straightening pomade will help smooth out curls and waves. For best curl control blow-dry your hair straight with a vent brush after application of the hair product.

How to Get Healthy Hair Cindy Mckie is a former professional hairstylist with over 10 years in the industry. She now works as a freelance writer. No matter if your hair is worn long, short or somewhere in between, healthy hair is always in fashion. Learn how to get healthy hair and how to fake it until it gets there.

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STEP 1: Get any split ends you may have trimmed off. No matter what a product claims, nothing will repair split ends except a trim. If split ends are left uncut they will continue to split farther up the shaft and damage more of your hair. Get rid of them to keep the damage to a minimum. STEP 2: For moderately damaged hair, find a good quality shampoo and conditioner. Choose products specifically for dry/damaged hair. STEP 3: Try shampooing your hair less. Washing your hair every day can strip natural oils that help protect the hair and keep it looking and feeling healthy. Try washing your hair every second or third day to maintain a natural moisture balance. STEP 4: Try using products such as a proteinizer and reconstructor if you have extremely dry hair. The proteinizer will strengthen your hair while the reconstructor will work on a molecular level to replace what your hair is missing. STEP 5: Try using styling products with added shine enhancers, such as silicone. They will give your hair sheen and help protect each strand against the damage of heated styling tools, such as blow driers and flat irons. STEP 6: Give your hair a break from the heat. Try using styling tools such as blow driers, flat irons, curling irons, and hot rollers sparingly. Whenever possible let your hair air dry either completely or most of the way and only blow dry to finish off the drying process. Try using your flat iron or hot rollers only every

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second or third day, which will be easier if you don’t wash your hair everyday. Just touch up in the morning instead of going through your entire styling routine. STEP 7: Once you finish styling your hair, spray on a shine spray product to combat dull hair. You will only need two to three quick shots, so this product will last a long time. STEP 8: Regular trims are a must. Visit your stylist every four to six weeks to have the very ends trimmed to avoid your hair’s ends splitting. STEP 9: If your hair is still looking dry and dull, try having a semi-permanent hair color applied by your stylist. These colors are ammonia free and won’t damage your hair. They simply coat the hair shaft, making them appear smoother and shinier. A darker hair color can also make hair appear healthier. STEP 10: Don’t want a new color but what the shine? Go for a glossing instead. This clear coat for your hair will give you the shine and smoothness of a color but won’t change your natural hair color one bit. STEP 11: Be good to your hair. Obviously it got damaged somehow so try to avoid a repeat performance. Avoid too many chemical processes, such as colors and perms, and avoid other hair wreckers such as chlorine, sun and tight elastic bands. Switch to semi-permanent colors, lay off the perms for a while and cover up your hair when in the sun or pool.

How to Wash a Wig It's suggested that you wash your wig (either synthetic or human-hair) after every 12 to 15 wearings. You can buy products made especially for wigs - including brushes, combs, picks, shampoo and conditioner - in a wig or beauty supply store.

Instructions • • • • • • • • • • • •

STEP 1: Remove the wig. STEP 2: Brush the wig gently with a wig brush, getting rid of all tangles. STEP 3: Fill a sink with cold water. STEP 4: Add a capful (about 1 tbsp.) of wig shampoo. STEP 5: Place the wig in soapy water and swish it around with your fingers for a minute or two. STEP 6: Use a soft toothbrush to remove any makeup stains. Use a paste of baking soda and shampoo on stubborn makeup stains. STEP 7: Let the wig soak in the sink for about five minutes. STEP 8: Drain the soapy water out and refill the sink with clean, cool water. STEP 9: Rinse the wig until all the shampoo is removed. You may have to change the water a few times. STEP 10: Gently blot the excess water with a dry towel. Do not wring the wig out. STEP 11: Let the wig air-dry on a wig stand, or turn it inside out and lay flat to dry. STEP 12: Spray on a wig conditioner and style your wig after it has dried.

How to Improve Hair and Nails Through Your Diet Our physical traits are mostly determined by genetics, but you can help nature along with changes in your diet. To get your hair and nails in the best shape possible from the inside out, read on.

Instructions • • • • • • • •

STEP 1: Eat high-quality protein foods. Eggs are a good source as long as you don't have cholesterol problems. STEP 2: Eat grains, legumes, nuts and seeds. STEP 3: Make sure your diet is composed of 50 percent fresh fruits and vegetables. STEP 4: Add sulfur- and silicon-rich foods to diet. Onions, broccoli, fish and sea vegetables are all good sources. STEP 5: Eat food rich in biotin, such as brewer's yeast, brown rice and soybeans. STEP 6: Sprinkle ground flaxseed on your cereal. It provides essential fatty acids. STEP 7: Eat foods high in B vitamins. STEP 8: Drink tea made from alfalfa, burdock root, dandelion, and yellow dock.

How to Choose the Right Hairbrush You'll look well-groomed if you brush your hair, and brushing also distributes oils and helps keep your hair shiny. Follow these tips to choose the right hairbrush for your hair type and style.

Instructions

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STEP 1: Choose a round, bristle brush if you have curly or wavy hair that you blow dry. Remember that the wider the brush, the straighter your hair will be when it dries. •

STEP 2: Use a boar-bristle, round brush if you blow dry your straight hair. This brush will shape and smooth your hair. Choose a brush with a smaller diameter for added volume.

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STEP 3: Select a flat, paddle brush for everyday brushing of straight or wavy hair.

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STEP 4: Use a pick on curly hair to separate curls without causing too much frizz.

How to Deep-Condition Hair Combat the damage of chemical treatments, coloring, heat styling and environmental pollution by deep-conditioning your hair on a regular basis. This will help replenish lost moisture and keep locks shiny and resilient.

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STEP 1: Assess your hair's needs and the time you have available. Different formulas offer different levels of conditioning, and treatment time can range from 2 to 60 minutes. STEP 2: Select a formula that best suits you, then consult your stylist to insure that the conditioner you've chosen will not interfere with your color treatment. STEP 3: Shampoo your hair. Towel dry, absorbing all excess moisture. STEP 4: Place a quarter-size amount of conditioner in the palm of your hand. Use more conditioner for longer hair. STEP 5: Rub hands together gently to distribute conditioner. STEP 6: Begin at the hairline and apply conditioner from forehead to ends. Comb through hair for even distribution, applying a little extra to the ends of long tresses. STEP 7: Massage scalp and relax for the time indicated. STEP 8: Rinse thoroughly and style as usual.

How to Design a Hairstyle for Your Natural Hair Article Badges:

You’ve seen the return of the Afros this season, below are the steps to get the look.

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Shampoo Leave-in Spray Conditioner Hair Crème Brush & Comb

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STEP 1: This style works well for thick coarse hair texture. STEP 2: Shampoo and do not dry hair. STEP 3: Oil the scalp using the hair crème. STEP 4: Spray conditioner evenly throughout hair. STEP 5: Now it’s time to braid the hair. The hair must be wet using the conditioner and hair crème for each braid. STEP 6: Start at the nape of the neck and section the hair in 3 inch squares. STEP 7: As you create a section, spray conditioner and apply crème. Brush hair to smooth before braiding. STEP 8: Let the hair dry naturally over the next 2 or 3 days. Use a silk scarf when sleeping. STEP 9: Oil the scalp and braids the night before you unbraid the hair to retain moisture. STEP 10: This curly hairstyle will last at least a week and always use a scarf while sleeping.

How to Wash a Toddler's Hair Toddlers have very strong ideas about what they like and dislike ' unfortunately, hairwashing is often one of the things they don't like. Here's how to get them clean with a minimum of fuss.

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STEP 1: Keep in mind, many toddlers are scared of loud running water: run the bath before they get in, if possible, and have rinsing water ready in a jug nearby. STEP 2: Keep the water out of her eyes with goggles or a visor ' this makes it harder for you to reach all the hair, but may make it easier to get the job done. STEP 3: Tell your child what you are doing before you do it ' a little explanation, even if she doesn't understand, can go a long way towards making the experience more comfortable for her. STEP 4: If possible, don't pour water over your child's head in large amounts ' use a wet washcloth or your hands to rinse a little bit at a time.

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STEP 5: Try the reclining method of shampooing and rinsing your child, if she will cooperate ' if she leans backwards in the tub, against you, or over a sink, you will be able to rinse her hair without getting water in her face. STEP 6: Be sure to use a gentle shampoo with a no-tears formula. STEP 7: Turn hair washing into a game. Let your child lather her own head, or get into the tub yourself, and let her help you wash your hair. STEP 8: Avoid making it an issue ' if the child refuses to have her hair washed, or becomes agitated, just back off and try again later.

How to shave your own head Ever wanted to shave your head? It's very easy to do!

Things You'll Need •

hair clippers, clipper oil, towel, mirror (2 is preferable), shower and a willing head!

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STEP 1: Find a good area in the bathroom where you are not afraid to have hair fall. You will see hair fly all over the place, so put away things like your toothbrush, soap, girlfriends makeup, etc that can't have hair in them. STEP 2: Use hair clippers from local Wal-mart, Target, etc. I've found that some of the best are the cheaper because they cut closer. It's up to the user on how much you want to spend. STEP 3: Select which size guide you would like to use. The plastic guides snap on to the clippers, they look longer than they actually are, so be careful! I use no guide, so it gets it as close as possible, without going skin bald. STEP 4: Add clipper oil to the clippers, this will keep the clippers in use for a long time. It's best to have the clippers running when you add the oil, this will distribute the oil through the teeth. STEP 5: Start cutting! It's usually hard to tell if you have hair left to cut when you are cutting the back, so just listen for a change in pitch of the clippers. When you don't hear cutting anymore, you're probably done! Nobody wants to walk around with a big strip of hair left uncut, so check with a second mirror or have a trusted :) friend look at it. STEP 6: Clean up: clean the clippers with a brush, clean up the sink and look around for hairs that have flown all over the bathroom and take a shower. Look at your self in the mirror and you'll look better than ever!!!

How to Select Hair-Care Products

Are you finding your bad-hair days outnumber the good ones? It could be due to your hair-care products. You may be using one made for hair that's a different texture than yours. Consult this chart, then head to the salon or drugstore. Soon your tresses will go from terrible to terrific.

PRODUCT

FEATURES Good for very dry hair. Restore moisture lost in blow-drying. Moisturizing Products containing aloe, seed oils or shea butter are especially Shampoos and rich. Generally too heavy for oily or fine hair, though can be used Conditioners just on the ends. Clean hair that's dulled by too much build-up. Help greasy hair if Clarifying Shampoos used periodically. Can be drying; limited use recommended. or Conditioners; Special anti-dandruff shampoos are far more effective for flaking Buildup Removers or itchy scalp. Gentle, moisturizing; won't strip color or natural oils from hair. Color-fading Easy to confuse color-protecting products with color-boosting or color-enhancing products. The latter two deposit color (and can Shampoos and Conditioners stain highlights)and thus might be more than you bargained for, especially on dry or processed hair. Panthenol is a cosmetic coverup found in most grocery store products. Look for dimethicone, a mineral emollient, which helps smooth and straighten a mop of thick hair before blow-drying. A light conditioner tames static and detangles normal to oily hair. Regular Conditioners Deep, rich conditioners resuscitate dry or damaged hair. Using too much can flatten thin, fine or oily hair, so use on midshaft and ends. If hair is very fine, use very little to create shine and smoothness. Leave-in Conditioners A light leave-in conditioner is great for creating shine and body and Reconstructive to straight hair and for taming. Also tames frizz and defines curls Detanglers in wavy hair. Hair Masks, Hot Oil Restore softness and shine by penetrating into the hair shaft and filling in "pockets" of missing protein. Indulge yourself and your Treatments, Deepconditioning Protein hair with a 20-minute treatment that rejuvenates and replenishes lost moisture, protein and shine. Packs Volume-enhancing Apply to damp roots, then again when dry to add volume to flat, Sprays and Rootlimp, thin or very straight hair. Not for bushy or thick curly hair. lifting Products Add texture and shape. Good for defining curls; holding styles. Hair Gels and Cremes Cremes can be softer and lighter; gels are harder and stiffer. Use sparingly and experiment with different effects. Stop staticky, flyaway hair. Tames frizz when worked into dry Styling Cremes or curls with fingers. Can be too greasy and weigh down hair. Best Pomades to start with coffee bean-size amount and add more later if

needed. Calm curls and fix frizzies on dry, processed (colored or permed) Shine-enhancing Gels or curly hair. Add shine. Look for silicone in ingredient list to or Sprays; Glossing help hair reflect light and look shinier. Too much product weighs Cremes down oily hair. Use very lightly or just on ends. Sprays are the least oily; spray on hands and smooth over hair. Handy to carry around for touchups on frizzies or flyaways. Is a Hair Balms cosmetic coverup and doesn't restore moisture, but gives a healthier look to hair. Straighten all hair types for people of all skin colors. Can transform curls into waves. Temporary products often contain Straighteners, Spray moisturizing ingredients like glycerin, coconut oil and plant Relaxers, Relaxing extracts. Permanent straighteners and relaxers are serious Cremes business and should always be applied by professionals. Use athome products sparingly and monitor how they affect your hair. Tame flyaways, add volume, seal coiffure. Try spraying on Hair Sprays brush, then brush through hair. Use light varieties for naturallooking hold. Firm-hold sprays can give a bulletproof, rigid look

How to Wash Dreadlocks Your hair-care regime will change the moment you begin to dread your hair. Line up all your current products in a row and see if they pass the test.

Instructions •

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STEP 1: Resist the temptation to shampoo a new set of dreads for at least two weeks. Your scalp will eventually acclimate to the new schedule. When your locks are secure, consider a wash every four days to two weeks, depending on how your scalp feels. STEP 2: Choose a low-lather shampoo that will leave no residue or film behind. Wash your hair with tepid to lukewarm water. Hot water may melt any wax you've used to secure your twists. STEP 3: Look for shampoos that tend to the new needs of your scalp. Many people with dreadlocks experience dry and itchy scalps, as well as dandruff. Consider products made by other "dread heads." These products will be formulated to cater to your specific needs. STEP 4: Skip the conditioner. Its emollient nature may loosen your locks. STEP 5: Consider slipping a nylon stocking or hair net over your head before you wash. This will help keep all your locks in place and keep them from unraveling. STEP 6: Shake your clean head, then squeeze excess water from each lock to begin the drying process. Blot water with a bedsheet, as towels may leave bits of fuzz in your hair.

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STEP 7: Let your hair dry completely, then begin the wax and twist process again. Comb

How to Care for a Wig A human-hair wig is a bit more trouble than a synthetic one, but keeping any wig in good condition is easy if you use products especially formulated for wigs.

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STEP 1: Buy the proper accessories to care for your wig. These include a wig brush, wig comb, wig stand, wig shampoo and conditioner, and various wig styling products. These are usually available in a beauty supply store or a wig store. STEP 2: Remove tangles with a wig brush and a spray wig conditioner. STEP 3: Remove shine by applying baby powder to the wig, then shaking excess power loose. STEP 4: Always comb or brush the wig starting at the ends, and not the roots. STEP 5: Store the wig in a closed space, such as a closet, at room temperature and on a wig stand. STEP 6: Use a hair spray formulated especially for wigs to style your wig. STEP 7: To reduce the volume of your wig, spray it with cool water and brush with a wig brush. STEP 8: Remember that it's best if you do not use any heat source (including a blow dryer, a curling iron or hot rollers) on a synthetic hair wig. You may use these items on a human-hair wig. STEP 9: Wash your wig after every 12 to 15 wearings. (See Related eHows.)

How to Choose a Hair Conditioner Your choice of conditioner depends most on your hair type (unlike your choice of shampoo, which depends on your scalp type). Choosing the right conditioner can help you avoid greasy, limp locks or a dry, frizzy head of hair.

Instructions • • • •

STEP 1: Choose a rich, moisturizing conditioner if your hair tends to get dry and frizzy. STEP 2: Use a volumizing conditioner if your hair is limp and fine. STEP 3: Get conditioner made for normal hair if yours is healthy and shiny. STEP 4: Change the brand of conditioner you use every month, since hair can become immune to a specific formula's effects, and buildup can occur.

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STEP 5: Buy a separate deep or leave-in conditioner to use once a week. If your hair is fine, use it in the shower and rinse it out immediately, the way you do with normal conditioner. The drier your hair is, however, the longer you'll want to leave it in.

How to Keep Your Hair Stylist Happy! I have a seven year relationship with my hair stylist and I know how to keep her happy. Once you’ve found the perfect stylist checkout my tips to keep the peace.

Instructions

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STEP 1: Remember they are trained professionals and take pride in their workmanship.

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STEP 2: Remember they know how to cut hair and use the appropriate products for your hair texture.

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STEP 3: Remember to value their opinion. Just because you saw a style in a magazine doesn’t mean it will work for you. •

STEP 4: Remember they know when you’ve seen another stylist and it will cost to make things right.

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STEP 5: Remember they can make or break you and your only alternative is a cap.

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STEP 6: Remember how beautiful you look whenever you leave the salon.

How to Trim a Mustache There are many ways to groom a mustache. Decide how you want yours to look before following these instructions.

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STEP 1: Wet your mustache slightly. STEP 2: Use a fine-tooth mustache comb to brush the hair down. STEP 3: Clip the hair on your mustache's outer edges with a pair of thin scissors. Remember to clip conservatively. STEP 4: Snip across the bottom of the mustache. STEP 5: Trim the body of the mustache to achieve the desired evenness and bushiness, and to clip errant hairs. STEP 6: Touch up the top of the mustache with a razor until you have the desired line. If you have an unusual mustache, such as a pencil-thin or handle-bar mustache, use more or less use of the razor as appropriate. Take care not to shave off the top of the mustache accidentally. STEP 7: Comb again with the mustache comb.

How to Trim a Beard If you don't have a beard trimmer, go buy one at the nearest drugstore. In the meantime, follow these steps for well-groomed facial hair.

Instructions • • • • •

STEP 1: Decide how you want your beard to look when you're finished trimming. STEP 2: Shave as you regularly do, including the exposed parts of cheeks and neck. Wash off the shaving cream. STEP 3: Wet your beard slightly. STEP 4: Use either scissors or a beard trimmer to groom your beard. STEP 5: Clip conservatively around the beard's upper edges.

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STEP 6: Snip around cheeks and along the jawline. Clip very little, reducing the beard's volume slowly to the desired length. STEP 7: Clip stray hairs until the beard is even. STEP 8: Wash away clippings. STEP 9: Trim your mustache, if applicable.

How to Choose Shampoo for Your Baby With so many brands and product types, it's difficult to know which shampoo is best. The following steps will help you make the right choice for your baby.

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STEP 1: Consult your doctor or midwife about grooming products. He or she probably has a lot of experience with little ones and will be able to advise you, and maybe give you some samples. STEP 2: Buy gentle shampoos made for baby. Look for "tear free" and "gentle enough for baby" on the labels. STEP 3: Stick with trusted brand names. For the first few weeks of life you probably don't even need shampoo and will only need to use it two to three times a week on older infants. Try the proven brands in small quantities first before venturing off into trendy or store brands. STEP 4: Try herbal or natural shampoos. Make sure the brand is intended for use with infants and small children before using it. Start with a very small amount to decrease intensity of an allergic reaction if your child should have one.

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Buy shampoos with character tops to use as a distraction while washing your child's hair. Be gentle, but don't avoid the fontanel - the soft spot. Your baby's head is protected by a thick membrane and washing the hair in that area will not harm your child. There are natural products made to help reduce cradle cap. Avoid using adult shampoo on your baby's gentle hair and skin.

How to Keep Hair Healthy During the Summer Months Summer means fun in the sun. Lazy days at the beach, lounging poolside, jetting around town with the top down and enjoying a barbecue with friends. But if you don't protect

your hair from the elements, your dazzling 'do may be brittle, dry and plagued with split ends come fall.

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STEP 1: Prevent green hair with an anti-chlorine shampoo and conditioner if your summer plans include a lot of pool time. Use a moisturizing shampoo and conditioner a few times a week to combat any dryness caused by daily exposure to the sun. STEP 2: Do a hot oil hair treatment followed by a clarifying shampoo about three times a month. The oil treatment offers a moisture surge and adds luster, while the shampoo will remove any residue of chlorine, salt, sunscreen and styling products. STEP 3: Protect your hair and scalp from the damaging rays of the sun. Talk to your hairdresser or beauty supply store about creams and spray treatments that offer sun protection. STEP 4: Alternate your updos. Minimize the breakage caused by tight or frequent ponytails by pulling your hair back with headbands, hair sticks or hair clips instead. STEP 5: Remember that color-treated hair will fade faster when exposed to the direct rays of the sun. Hats or head wraps are a must. Find out which sunprotection hair product is best-suited to your hair. STEP 6: Skip blow-drying and the use of hot rollers and curling irons whenever possible. When it's a must, always use heat-activated styling products, particularly at the ends, to guard against drying.

How to Trim the Back of Your Neck You can solve one of life's pesky little problems with a few quick strokes of a razor.

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STEP 1: Loosen your collar or remove your shirt. STEP 2: If you're using an electric trimmer, set it on its closest setting and turn it on. If you're using a razor, apply a small amount of shaving cream to the back of your neck. STEP 3: Begin trimming, using two mirrors if possible. Working in vertical lines, run the trimmer up the back of your neck from the base to the hairline. If you're using a razor, shave down in short strokes from the hairline to the base of the neck. STEP 4: Even out the hairline as necessary. STEP 5: Wipe off the shaving cream or brush off the clippings.

Coloring Consider your bad hair days a thing of the past. People will think you've just stepped out of a salon, thanks to eHow's great hair styling tips. Choose the right highlights, get rid of the frizz, lose the dandruff, trim that nose hair or achieve that perfectly groomed beard with these helpful hair care tips. There's even hair care information for moms caring for babies and toddlers. Just click on a topic below.

Articles in Coloring 1. How to Dye Roots So you've taken the plunge and dyed your hair a new color. Let the maintenance begin! Touch up your roots every four to five weeks to keep your new color seamless. 2. How to Highlight a Man's Hair Hair highlights aren’t just for women anymore. Many men are using hair color to change their look as well. For those who want to add some color to their style here is how to get hair highlights for a man. 3. How to Choose Highlights That Complement Your Coloring Highlighting hair offers a sun-kissed glow and gives dimension to your hairstyle. Vary the shade and intensity of the color depending on your skin color and the effect you'd like to achieve. 4. How to Choose the Perfect Blond Hair Color They say blonds have more fun - but only if they choose the right shade of blonde. Here you’ll learn the right shade of blonde for your skin coloring, along with the latest trends in getting that perfect blond hair color. 5. How to Get Great Hair Highlights At Home Hair highlights can make a stunning statement to your hairstyle. Whether you want to highlight short or long hair, here are some tips for salon perfect hair highlights done at home. 6. How to Switch From Brunet to Blond Hair

We've all heard the rumor about the connection between having blond hair and having fun. Tempted to find out if it's true? The upkeep may be well worth it. 7. How to Switch From Brunet to Red Hair Add some fire to your locks with a dash of red. Whether a dark auburn or a dazzling copper, you're sure to turn a few heads with your new shade. 8. How to Make Color Last Between Dye Jobs Maintaining the color is an ongoing enterprise for people who dye their hair. Here's how to make your color last longer'and how to cover up those pesky roots. 9. How to Get the Perfect Brunette Hair Color Don’t be fooled into thinking that brunettes are boring. From rich chocolates to golden browns, brunette never looked so good. Here we’ll give you the inside scoop on how to get the right brunette hair color for you. 10. How to Dye Your Hair While Pregnant Pregnant women should take extra precautions before making a change in hair color. 11. How to Color a Man's Hair Women aren’t the only ones using hair color to improve their hairstyle. Guys can also color their hair, whether they just want to have a natural look to cover grey hair or go for a completely new color. Here are some tips for guys looking to get a great man’s hair color. 12. How to Dye Away the Grays If you're not ready to accept graying hair, consider coloring it to hang on to your natural shade. 13. How to Get the Perfect Red Hair Color Red hair color is on fire this season. From subtle auburns to eye-popping hues, reds are always a favorite color for those looking to get their hair noticed. Here we’ll show you which reds will work best with your skin tones. 14. How to prevent staining your skin when coloring your hair As almost anyone who's attempted to dye their hair at home knows, no matter how careful you are, even the natural & semi permanent hair dye products can

leave embarrassing stains on your face, ears, neck, and hands. You can prevent this with a few quick, easy steps, taken before you begin. 15. How to Switch From Blond to Brunet Hair The journey from goldie locks to mahogany tresses is a long and arduous one. Whether you need a change of pace, need to go incognito, or feel like commanding attention for more than your golden mane, do your research and seek the advice of professionals

How to Buy a Wig or Hairpiece Bald might be beautiful in the eyes of some people, but not for those with gradual or drastic hair loss who just want to look like their old self again. With a wide range of colors and styles, wigs have never looked more fabulous, darling.

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STEP 1: Talk to your doctor and insurance provider and find out what's covered. Ask for a prescription for a cranial hair prosthesis. STEP 2: Find a hairstylist experienced in working with wigs and ask about style and shape. They can take your measurements and order your wig, as well as cut and style it after it's delivered. Ask about each wig's scalp and hairline. A bad hairline is the biggest giveaway, so ask to see and try on samples. STEP 3: Price out various kinds of wigs. Prices reflect whether the wig was made by hand or by a machine. STEP 4: Synthetic wigs are affordable and easy to style, and cost from $100 to $500. They're not quite as durable, and frizz more, but are ideal if you're experiencing temporary hair loss due to chemotherapy. STEP 5: Human hair, of course, has the most lifelike look and bounce. You'll pay around $1,000 for a net-based wig, and up to $6,000 or more for a custom-molded polyurethane vacuum base. These top-quality cranial hair prostheses adhere securely to the head and, since hairs are injected through the base one at a time, look the most natural. STEP 6: Consider a partial wig if you have a few bald or very thin spots (common with alopecia). They can be custom-made to blend in with and bulk up your own remaining hair. STEP 7: Feel confident your wig won't take flight with different anchoring options. Many wigs have adjustable fasteners or straps in the back; tape tabs at the hairline and ears also provide security. A nonirritating head band such as the Comfy Grip ($29) is helpful if you've lost all your hair. Custom-fit caps help smooth any remaining hair underneath (stretch lace costs around $22). STEP 8: Ask if extra hair can be added to the wig later if it thins in places. While a quality wig starts showing wear at two or three years, spot repairs can extend its life to four or five years.

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STEP 9: Ask for tips on care and styling. Depending on how dirty it gets, you might need to wash it every 10 to 14 days. Store on a wig block when it's not in use, and wipe down the inside of polyurethane-based models with rubbing alcohol each day. STEP 10: Find out if the hairstylist can revitalize color later if the wig fades.

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STEP 1: Choose a hairdresser experienced in curly/dry hair. STEP 2: Have your hairdresser help you choose a hairstyle that is easy to maintain--preferably one that just requires a wet-and-go approach. STEP 3: Once you have your favored style, visit your stylist at least 4 times a year to trim split ends. STEP 4: Don't let your hairstylist use a razor to layer your hair (although layering is good.) Razors contribute to split ends. STEP 5: Don't wash hair every day. This kind of hair needs the natural oils from your scalp to reduce frizz. STEP 6: To upkeep your desired style, just wet hair with some conditioner on non-washing days (rinse thoroughly). STEP 7: Avoid using hairdryers unless necessary. Blowdrying hair dries it out. STEP 8: Believe it or not, grease, mousses and gels make caring for this kind of hair harder!! Chemical build-ups require more washing than is healthy. STEP 9: If you must use products, use high-quality, health-food store or salon products that leave little residue. STEP 10: Do not brush, unless you want a 'fro. STEP 11: Love your hair! Many are envious of the regal quality of curly hair!

How to Check a Child's Hair for Lice Symptoms of head lice include frequent head-scratching and/or the sudden appearance of dandruff-like white flecks in the hair. You may receive a note from your child's school reporting that another class member has a case of head lice. In all of these instances, you should examine your child's head for lice.

Instructions

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STEP 1: Be sure there is adequate lighting when checking your child’s head for lice. A brightly lit bathroom or a flashlight will help you spot any lice or eggs. STEP 2: Begin at the nape (bottom) of the neck and work your way up. Lice and eggs can be anywhere on the head but they do prefer warmer places to hide. The lower hairline is a good place to start. STEP 3: Using either your fingers or a tail comb, slowly part the hair down the middle, from the crown to the nape of the neck. Check the part for eggs on the hair shaft (small white specks attached to the hair shaft) or adult lice. The eggs will be well attached and should only be able to be removed by scraping off the hair with your finger nail. STEP 4: Once the first section is checked, part the hair either to the left or right of your original part in very small sections. Check this new parting for eggs and adult lice. STEP 5: Repeat this process throughout the entire back of the head, paying extra attention to the warmer spots at the nape, hairline and close to the ears. STEP 6: When the entire back portion of the head is complete, part your child’s hair from the crown to the front hairline and repeat the process for the front of the hair. STEP 7: If lice are found on your child’s head treatment must be given immediately. STEP 8: Remove your child’s clothing that they are wearing and all bedding on your child’s bed. Wash immediately or your child will risk another exposure. All materials such as jackets, hats, scarves, pillow or blanket that your child may have come in contact with will be infested and must be washed. STEP 9: Wash your hands thoroughly once the clothes are in the washer. STEP 10: Go to the drug store and purchase a lice shampoo. Follow the directions given with the product. STEP 11: If you have other children in the house check them for lice as well. If you suspect you may be infected have someone check you or use the lice shampoo just to be safe. STEP 12: Be persistent. The treatment may have to be repeated before the lice or eggs are completely killed.

How to Choose a Shampoo Shampoo not only washes your hair, it keeps it healthy and strong. Make sure you're using the best shampoo for your hair type.

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STEP 3: Choose a gentle shampoo that is made specifically for oily hair and/or for daily use, if your hair gets greasy. Make sure it has ingredients like tea tree oil, sage oil and chamomile. STEP 4: Opt for a moisturizing shampoo for curly hair, and a protein-based shampoo for kinky hair. STEP 5: Read the label on a protein-based shampoo and make sure that protein is listed as one of the first ingredients, followed by shea butter, glycerin, sulfur or carotene. STEP 6: Use a color-safe shampoo and conditioner every day for hair that's been dyed, bleached or highlighted.

How to Choose an Easy and Stylish Hair Cut for Girls Cindy McKie is a former professional hairstylist with over 10 years experience in the industry. She now works as a freelance writer. Kids are fashion conscious too and they want their hair to look great. So what to do when your little girl wants a trendy hair cut but you want something easy to care for? Here are some tips for choosing a great haircut that will be easy to style.

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STEP 1: Decide what length of hair cut she wants. Short hair is easy to manage but many girls still want to keep their long hair. Sit down with your child and discuss the pros and cons of both long and short hair. STEP 2: Be sure that your child knows that they will be expected to style their hair themselves (if you don’t plan on helping). Older girls will probably have no problems with this but younger girls may not be aware of how much styling is required for some hairstyles. STEP 3: Consider your child’s hair type. If she has fine hair try to choose hair cuts that will work with her hair. Thick hair can require a lot of work to style so you may want to keep it shoulder length or shorter if your child has trouble managing it herself. STEP 4: Flip through some hairstyling magazines and find hairstyles that you both think will be appropriate. Clip out these hairstyles and keep them to take to the salon with you. STEP 5: Ask the stylist for advice. When your child is in the stylist’s chair ask about the styles you’ve chosen and ask the stylist to offer suggestions on easy styles. She may be able to suggest a style that will work great with your child’s hair or suggest alterations to a chosen style that will make it easier to manage and still look great.

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STEP 1: Know that fine hair can be a challenge to style. Choose a hair cut that will make the most out of what hair she has. STEP 2: Consider a pixie cut. Try a short pixie cut such as Natalie Portman sports for a super easy and trendy hairstyle. This short hairstyle will only need a little mousse or styling gel applied to it and minimal blow drying to style. STEP 3: Consider a bob. For girls who want a little more length, a chin length bob works great. Keep the bob one length if possible for easier styling. If your daughter has naturally straight hair she may be able to simply let this style air dry or use the blow drier to remove any excess moisture and let the rest dry on its own. STEP 4: Consider long hair. Girls with fine hair can have long hair, but the hair will need extra TLC to make sure it doesn’t become damaged. Fine hair needs to have the ends trimmed often to avoid split ends. Fine hair can sometimes look “stringy” and thin if it’s too long. If it is always looking unkempt you may need to go shorter, such as shoulder length, to keep it looking thicker and tidy.

Hair Products for Thick Hair Instructions • •

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STEP 1: Thick hair needs strong enough products to stand up to all that hair. A firm holding styling gel will give strong hold to thick hair. STEP 2: For a wet look, apply a strong hold styling gel to damp hair and style as desired. Let hair dry naturally. For a softer look, blow-dry hair after applying the gel. STEP 3: For thick and curly hair, use a gel designed specifically for curly hair. These gels will have a humidity control agent that will keep frizz at bay. STEP 4: For a firm but flexible hold on thick hair, a strong hold molding paste works well. These hair products won’t dry stiff and hair can be restyled throughout the day. STEP 5: Strong hold pomade will also give you a touchable hairstyle. Look for the high gloss variety to add shine to your hair.

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Hair Products for Fine or Thin Hair Instructions • •

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Hair Products for Curly Hair Instructions •

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STEP 3: For men who want to tame their curls, a smoothing serum or straightening pomade will help smooth out curls and waves. For best curl control blow-dry your hair straight with a vent brush after application of the hair product.

How to Determine Your Face Shape Cindy McKie is a professional hairstylist with over ten years experience in the industry. She now works as a freelance writer. Choosing the perfect hairstyle starts before you look at any photos or a visit your hairdresser. In order to select the perfect cut for you, you’ll need to take a good, hard look in the mirror and determine your face shape. Knowing the shape of your face helps you choose hairstyles that compliment your good features and counter balances your not so flattering features.

Measuring Your Face Instructions •

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STEP 1: Choose a bathroom with good lighting and stand in front of the mirror. You’ll need a tape measure, a piece of paper and a pen to write down your measurements. STEP 2: Start by measuring across the top of your cheekbones. Place the end of your tape measure just past the outer corner of your eye. This is your start point. Then, carefully lay the tape measure in a straight line across the bridge of your nose to just past the outer corner of your other eye. This is your end point of measurement. The tape measure should be resting on the top of the “apples” of your cheeks, or just on top of your cheekbones. Read the number at the end point and write down this measurement. STEP 3: Measure your jaw line next. Start on one side of your jaw at the base near your ear. Run the measuring tape along your jaw line until you come to the middle of your chin. Multiple the number at the end point by two and write down this measurement. STEP 4: Measure your forehead now. Place the start point of the measuring tape on one side of your forehead at the widest point halfway between your eyebrows and your hairline. Run the measuring tape along your forehead until you come to the same point on the opposite side of your head. STEP 5: Finally, measure the length of your face. Start at the middle of your hairline. Run the measuring tape down your face, over your nose, to the tip of

your chin.

Hairstyles for Your Face Shape Instructions •

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STEP 1: You have an oval face shape if: the length of your face equals one and a half times the width. This face is well balanced and proportionate. An oval face can wear practically any hairstyle so feel free to experiment! Celebrities with oval faces are Julia Roberts and Heather Locklear. STEP 2: You have a round face shape if: your face is as wide as it is long. Close counts, so even if the two measurements aren’t exactly the same, your face will be classified as round. Try hairstyles with height at the crown to balance out the width of your face. Off center parts, sweptback styles or lots of length will help counter a round face. Avoid very short, cropped hairstyles or hairstyles that have fullness at the sides, as these will make your face look larger. A celebrity with a round face is Kate Winslet. STEP 3: You have an oblong face shape if: your face is longer than it is wide. Try hairstyles that are short to medium in length. Layers will soften the angles in your face so ask your stylist to add layering, especially around your face. Avoid very long hairstyles that will make your face look even longer than it already is. Niki Taylor is a good example of this face shape. STEP 4: You have a heart-shaped face if: you have a narrow jaw with wide cheekbones and/or forehead. A chin length bob is perfect for this type of face shape as it makes the jaw area appear wider and more balanced with the rest of your face. Longer hairstyles also work well, but avoid styles with height at the crown or slicked back and super short hairstyles. Jennifer Love Hewitt is a great example of this type of face shape. STEP 5: You have a square face shape if: your face is as wide as it is long but with a more angular shape than a round face. A short- to medium-length hairstyle works well with this type of face shape, as do wavy or rounded outline styles. Wispy bangs also help even out a square face. Avoid long, straight hairstyles. A bob hairstyle that sits either above or below the jaw line will look great—just be sure your bob doesn’t sit right at the jaw line. This will make your face look wider. Sandra Bullock is a great example of a square-shaped face. STEP 6: You have a diamond face shape if: your face is widest at the cheekbones and you have a narrow forehead and jaw line of approximately equal widths. A true diamond-shaped face gives you lots of hairstyle options, so experiment! Just be sure to show off your beautiful cheekbones—don’t hide them with too much hair on your face. If you are a dramatic diamond shape and opt for a short hairstyle make sure your stylist leaves some weight in the nape of the neck to balance out your prominent cheekbones.

How to Dye Roots So you've taken the plunge and dyed your hair a new color. Let the maintenance begin! Touch up your roots every four to five weeks to keep your new color seamless.

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STEP 1: Touch up your roots with the same color you originally used to dye your hair. Select the same brand so that your roots will blend in with the rest of your hair. STEP 2: Wash and towel dry hair. STEP 3: Slip into an old T-shirt and gather your tools: hair-color kit, fitted rubber gloves, butterfly hair clips (for easy hair release), a comb and an old towel. STEP 4: Part hair evenly down the center, then from ear to ear. Clip each quadrant up. STEP 5: Put on plastic gloves, and prepare hair color solution following the instructions on the box. STEP 6: Slip the towel underneath your work area to catch any drips of solution, as permanent dyes may stain countertops. STEP 7: Trace along the parts in one quadrant as you gently squeeze your bottle of coloring. Release clip and, keeping the tip of the bottle very close to your scalp, stripe thinly spaced lines over entire area. Re-clip colored section. STEP 8: Continue until you've treated all four quadrants. STEP 9: Check the clock or set a timer. Knock five minutes off the suggested treatment time and then relax with a book or magazine. STEP 10: Apply remaining solution to your entire head for the last five minutes of your treatment. This will brighten the rest of your hair's color and make the most even seam between regrowth and ends. STEP 11: Rinse as indicated.

How to Find a Hairstylist and Makeup Artist for Your Wedding Your hair and makeup are the last things you want to be fussing with the morning of your wedding. Leave these details to the professionals. They have the right tools and expertise to make you a radiant and stunning bride.

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STEP 1: Begin your search at least three to six months in advance. Hairstylists and makeup artists specializing in bridal beauty are in demand, and because many wedding dates overlap, it's essential to secure your time slot.

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STEP 2: Ask other recent brides you know or a wedding consultant for recommendations, or check the wedding and beauty sections of the yellow pages. Make appointments with those who specialize in bridal beauty. STEP 3: Interview all candidates, paying close attention to those who really interview you. You're looking for hairstylists who ask about the neckline of your dress and the cut of your veil and for makeup artists who ask about wedding day lighting and ask to see pictures of your desired look. STEP 4: Ask to see a hairstylist's portfolio to get an idea of the looks she can and has created. Have makeup artists show you the range of colors and finishes they offer in foundation, powder, shadow and lipsticks. STEP 5: Resist the temptation to book with those who lack the experience, creativity or the patience necessary to create your desired look. You may not get the look you're hoping for if you hire a makeup artist whose color palette is limited or a hairstylist with more experience cutting than styling

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How to Get Rid of Chlorine-Green Hair The green hair that develops from exposure to chlorine is related to the copper found in the water.

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STEP 1: Purchase a shampoo and/or conditioner specially formulated to remedy "green hair" or "swimmer's hair." STEP 2: Try using

How to Highlight a Man's Hair Cindy McKie is a former professional hairstylist with over 10 years experience in the industy. She now works as a freelance writer. Hair highlights aren’t just for women anymore. Many men are using hair color to change their look as well. For those who want to add some color to their style here is how to get hair highlights for a man.

Having Your Hair Highlighted at a Salon Instructions

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STEP 1: Find examples of hair highlights for a man that you like in magazines. Subtle highlights can be hard to detect so if you see a man’s hair that you like the color of keep those aside as well. You’ll want to cut out those pictures or remember the person’s name (if it’s a celebrity) so you can give examples to your stylist of what you like. STEP 2: Be sure to tell the salon you plan on having your hair highlighted when making your appointment. Also, if you are still unclear on what type or color of highlights you want you may want to ask that they leave extra time in the appointment for a consultation. Stylists work best when they’re not rushed, so make sure plenty of time is given for your visit. STEP 3: Avoid putting hair products in your hair for your appointment. Most stylists like to do hair highlights on dry hair and having your hair loaded with styling gel can make working with your hair difficult. If this isn’t possible you may have to have your hair washed and dried before the process can begin. STEP 4: Consult with your stylist on your highlighting options at your appointment. Be sure to tell her if you’re looking for a subtle effect or if you want your hair highlights to be more noticeable. STEP 5: Discuss placement of the hair highlights before the process begins. You may want to start out with only a few subtle highlights in the front of your hair or have them placed all over to blend in with your natural color. STEP 6: Ask your stylist which color she’ll be using. It never hurts to know what’s being used on your hair so that you can either try to do the highlights at home (perhaps you have a willing girlfriend who’ll do it for you) or if you ever change salons or stylists. STEP 7: Be sure your stylist dries your hair so you can check out the true color of your new highlights after the highlights have been completed. Have a good look at them and make sure they’re what you wanted. If they are too light they can be darkened with a toner (a slightly darker color rinsed through the hair). If they aren’t light enough the process might have to be done again. This is why the consultation process is so important—getting it right the first time is so much easier. STEP 8: Be sure to take good care of your new hair highlights after you leave the salon. Using a shampoo and conditioner for colored hair will help keep your hair healthy. Also, avoid prolonged exposure to the sun which will bleach out and change the color of your highlights.

How to Make a Ponytail No longer just a bad-hair-day antidote, the ponytail is a chic and sleek hairstyle for day or evening. Wear it low at the back of the neck for dressy business or evening occasions or keep it in the middle of the head for a casual sporty look.

Instructions

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STEP 1: Comb your hair, removing any tangles or snarls. Day-old hair transitions very well into a ponytail, as does de-tangled "bed head." Add a dollop of styling mousse or pomade to give just-dried hair some weight and texture. STEP 2: Tame any flyaway hair with an anti-frizz serum or hair gel. Style the front of your hair, including any bangs, wisps or tendrils you do not want pulled back. Part your hair where desired. STEP 3: Pull a rubber band around the wrist of your lead or brush hand. Brush hair into your free hand, letting the tail hang parallel to your spine. Collect all the hair you want to include between the L made by your thumb and palm. STEP 4: Set the brush down, then tighten the grip on your gathered hair. Transfer the ponytail into your lead hand. Your palm should face the back of your head, with your fingers and thumb facing down and your elbow facing up. Let your hair form a cord in the tunnel of your grip. STEP 5: Hook the rubber band with your free index finger and stretch it down. Pull your ponytail through the band, keeping a soft grip. STEP 6: Keep the rubber band tense as you insert your other fingers and thumb into the band and twist it around the base of your ponytail. Press your pinky against the point where the rubber band crosses and make a wide circle. STEP 7: Grab your ponytail and pull it through the rubber band. Repeat steps 5 and 6 until the rubber band fits snuggly. STEP 8: Take a small section of the tail and wrap it twice - once for short hair around the rubber band. Secure it by inserting it into a strap of the band. Use an extra dab of gel or anti-frizz serum on the twisting section for greater control.

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STEP 5: Hook the rubber band with your free index finger and stretch it down. Pull your ponytail through the band, keeping a soft grip. STEP 6: Keep the rubber band tense as you insert your other fingers and thumb into the band and twist it around the base of your ponytail. Press your pinky against the point where the rubber band crosses and make a wide circle. STEP 7: Grab your ponytail and pull it through the rubber band. Repeat steps 5 and 6 until the rubber band fits snuggly. STEP 8: Take a small section of the tail and wrap it twice - once for short hair around the rubber band. Secure it by inserting it into a strap of the band. Use an extra dab of gel or anti-frizz serum on the twisting section for greater control.

How to Make Your Kid's Haircut a Happy One Cindy McKie is a professional hairstylist with over ten years experience in the industry. She now works as a freelance writer. For adults, a trip to the salon can be a relaxing and rejuvenating experience. But for a child it is often something completely different. Many small children are either afraid of having their hair cut or find it difficult to sit still in the stylist’s chair. Here are a few tips for making your kid's haircut a happy experience.

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STEP 1: Take your child’s schedule into consideration. Don’t put off or skip nap time for small children in order to get their hair cut. Instead try and book an appointment for a time when they will be well rested, fed, comfortable and more likely to cooperate. STEP 2: If this is your child’s first time at the salon or they tend to be afraid of having their hair cut, try giving them a day or two advance notice. Let them be a part of choosing their new hairstyle or allow them to bring a favorite stuffed animal for comfort. STEP 3: For very young children, bring a distraction of some sort. A small, easy to eat snack such crackers or a favorite book to read to them can help take their mind off what the stylist is doing. STEP 4: Decide on what type of haircut you’d like before the appointment. Even if you want the stylist’s input on your child’s hairstyle, you should at least have a basic idea of what you want and don’t want. The quicker the haircut can begin, the less likely your child will be to get restless. STEP 5: Be realistic in the type of hairstyle you want. If your child is very young or doesn’t tend to sit still for haircuts, an intricate and precise haircut might not be your best option. Instead, opt for a simpler hairstyle that the stylist can create even if your little one’s head moves during the cut.

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STEP 6: If your child has long hair, give it a good brushing and detangling before heading to the salon. Your child will be less likely to enjoy their haircut if the first ten minutes is spent trying to brush out knots and tangles. STEP 7: Try to arrive for your appointment on time or a few minutes early. Showing up too early will mean your child will have to sit and wait and possibly use up all their patience before the cut even begins, too late and they will be rushed and stressed. STEP 8: Once it is your child’s turn, keep your attitude positive and bring any snacks or distractions with you to the stylist’s chair. If your child seems frightened, quietly let the stylist know about your child’s fears so the stylist can help you in making the haircut seem fun. STEP 9: Explain what type of hairstyle you want for your child and ask any questions you may have before it begins. Again, be realistic with what your child will be able to handle. If he or she is restless or fearful, opt for a simple trim or cut that can be performed quickly. STEP 10: If your child is frightened or squirming, stay with your child during the haircut. Distract them by reading or singing songs or even talking to them about something unrelated to their haircut. STEP 11: Sometimes a young child just isn’t ready for the stylist’s chair. If they are unwilling to sit still or seem very frightened and can’t be coaxed into cooperating, ask your stylist if your child can have a little time out of the chair to calm down. Forcing a child to sit when they’re terrified won’t create fond memories of trips to the hairdresser and may deepen their fear of haircuts. STEP 12: Ask if your child can watch someone else have his hair cut to see that it’s nothing to fear. If that doesn’t work, ask your stylist if your child can sit on your lap during the cut. Many times a stylist can work around you and perform the cut while you sit with and comfort your small child. STEP 13: If you still can’t manage to get your child to cooperate using any of these techniques, know when to throw in the towel and try again later. As much as you may want your child’s hair cut, a stylist can only do so much with a crying and squirming child. Remember, your child will have sharp scissors very close to their head and, as careful as a hairstylist can be, a wrong move at the wrong time (especially when cutting around the ears for short hairstyles) can be dangerous. Not to mention it's much harder to get an even haircut on a moving target. STEP 14: If you and your stylist do manage to get through the haircut, remember again to be realistic. If there was a lot of squirming during the haircut, don’t spend the next five minutes picking apart the haircut and demanding that every stray hair be fixed. You can expect a reasonably even and nice looking cut, but don’t expect perfection. You’ll only be drawing out the process and likely trying the little patience that your child has for staying in the chair. STEP 15: Learn from your previous experiences. If your child’s salon visit was less than successful, try altering the time of his or her next appointment. Or, if your child is able to tell you, ask them how you can make it better for them. Experiment to see what will help your child enjoy their visits to the salon. STEP 16: If you liked the stylist who performed the haircut, try to make future appointments with that stylist. Your child will get to know and trust the same

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person, which may help alleviate their fears. The stylist will also get to know your child and will be able to help future haircuts go more smoothly. STEP 17: If your child is extremely resistant to the idea of haircuts, try finding a salon that specifically caters to children. Some children’s salons have fun chairs to sit in and TVs that play cartoons to distract children. These stylists will also be more experienced in dealing with young children and may have extra tricks and props to help turn a fearful or uncooperative little client into a happy one.

How to Select Hair Accessories The market is flooded with great hair accessories: headbands, tortoise clips, rhinestone barrettes and colorful scrunchies. They're not all made the same, however. High-quality hair accessories will cost more, but in the end they'll go the distance and be a little easier on your hair.

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STEP 1: Stretch all elastic hair bands, scrunchies and ponytail holders. Make sure they are taut. Look for finished seams on scrunchies and headbands and secure metal clamps on ponytail holders. STEP 2: Try on all headbands to see if they mold to the shape of your head and hold your hair firmly in place. Spread the arms a little to check for resiliency. Look for proper finishing, including secure seams, and make sure that any adornments are secure. STEP 3: Open and close all barrettes and hair clips to check the hinge mechanism and clasp. Try them on to ensure that they hold your hair in place. Look for hard plastics and chip-resistant metals. STEP 4: Inspect all accessories that have rhinestones, beads and jewels. Look for secure attachments and prongs. Check for bead holes that are evenly drilled. STEP 5: Choose bows and ribbons that have finished edges and tails. Opt for velvet accessories with a thick, plush nap. STEP 6: Check hair chopsticks for splinters or chips that could snag your hair or scratch your scalp. Check the spring mechanism on butterfly or claw clips - it should be tense and should spring back to the starting position very easily.

How to Wash a Wig Difficulty: Easy It's suggested that you wash your wig (either synthetic or human-hair) after every 12 to 15 wearings. You can buy products made especially for wigs - including brushes, combs, picks, shampoo and conditioner - in a wig or beauty supply store.

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Overall Things You'll Need • • • • • • • •

wig comb Baking Soda Towel Toothbrush wig stand wig shampoo wig conditioner wig brush

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If your wig has absorbed smoke or cooking odors, add 1 tbsp. of baking soda to the wash water. It's best not to let your wig dry on a styrofoam "head" or other type of headstand. It can stretch the elastic around the wig. Do not comb or brush the wig while it is wet. Do not use a hair dryer or other heat source to dry your wig.

How to Get Rid of Dandruff

Most dandruff is caused by a disorder of the oil-secreting glands known as seborrhea. Read on for various steps you can take to reduce or eliminate this embarrassing condition.

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STEP 1: Mix 8 tbsp. peanut oil with the juice of half a lemon. Rub the mixture into your hair, leave on for 10 minutes and then wash as usual. STEP 2: Add 3 drops of tea tree oil, a natural antiseptic, to a small amount of shampoo and then wash your hair. STEP 3: Rinse your hair with a solution of 1/4 c. vinegar and 1 qt. water. STEP 4: Use an infusion of the herbs chaparral or thyme as a hair rinse. STEP 5: Add flaxseed oil, primrose oil or fish oil to your diet. STEP 6: Use kelp as a seasoning. STEP 7: Take selenium, vitamin B complex, vitamin E and zinc supplements. Do not exceed 100mg of zinc a day. STEP 8: Take vitamin C and a bioflavonoid complex. STEP 9: Add lecithin granules or capsules to your diet. STEP 10: Make at least 50 percent of your diet raw food. STEP 11: Avoid or decrease your intake of fried foods, dairy products, sugar, chocolate and nuts.

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Combs Thyme Bath Towels Lemons Tea Tree Oils Lecithin Dandruff Shampoo Vitamin E Vinegar

How to Get Rid of Split Ends Article Badges: When hair becomes dry or damaged, the hair shaft splits at the end. Here's how you can keep those unsightly splits from spoiling the looks of your locks.

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STEP 1: Keep brushing to a minimum since it promotes breakage. Brushing wet hair is a definite no-no; use a wide-toothed comb when hair is wet. STEP 2: Strive for low-maintenance hair. Hair dryers, curling irons, perms and hair colors all damage hair. If you must blow-dry, use a cool setting and keep the dryer 6 inches (15 cm) from your hair. STEP 3: Protect your hair from extreme weather. Wear a hat on sunny days and keep hair well moisturized in the dry winter months. STEP 4: Apply a leave-in conditioner or pomade to the ends of your hair daily to keep them strong. STEP 5: Snip away any split ends you spot. Cut at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) above the split. A split end will split the hair all the way up to the scalp, so snip it as soon as you spot it. STEP 6: Schedule a trim with your hairstylist if you start seeing a lot of split ends.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • •

Scissors Wide-toothed Comb Hat Leave-in Conditioner Or Pomade

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Ask your stylist to recommend thermal protection products. Be wary of promises from the makers of products for split ends. These bind the hair shaft temporarily. The only real cure is a haircut.

How to Untangle Hair Snarls Snarls or tangles often indicate damaged hair, so handle this problem with the greatest degree of delicacy.

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STEP 1: Apply hair conditioner or hand lotion to the fingers of one hand. STEP 2: Hold the tangle in the hand that does not have lotion on it. You will use the other hand to work out the snarl gently. STEP 3: Comb your fingers through the snarl. Begin at the bottom of the snarl and work toward the scalp. STEP 4: For really bad snarls, wet the hair and apply conditioner. Leave the conditioner in the hair while you finger-brush it. STEP 5: Gently comb out the hair with a wide-toothed comb to prevent more snarls from developing.

How to Avoid Hair Loss An estimated 95 percent of hair loss is genetic, but other factors, such as nutrition, overall health, hormone deficiencies, overcoloring of hair and emotional stress, can be controlled somewhat.

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STEP 1: Wash your hair regularly in warm water and use a deep conditioner. STEP 2: Eat a balanced diet. Nutritional deficiencies, eating disorders and excessive amounts of certain vitamins, such as A and E, can cause hair loss. STEP 3: Take care of your health. Chronic illness, high fevers and infections can contribute to hair loss. STEP 4: Stay away from harsh chemicals - permanent hair color and perms are the most damaging - and avoid coloring your hair more than once every six to eight weeks. STEP 5: Avoid hairstyles like ponytails and cornrows, which stretch and pull hair. STEP 6: Keep in mind that it's normal to lose between 50 and 100 hairs a day. STEP 7: Consult your general physician or dermatologist regarding concerns about hair loss.

How to Get Tangles out of Hair Want to know hairdressers' secret for removing tangles? Baby oil.

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STEP 1: Pour a small amount of baby oil onto your hands and apply to tangles. STEP 2: Rub thoroughly throughout the tangle to distribute the oil. STEP 3: Run a comb through the hair, pulling gently through the knots. STEP 4: Shampoo to clean out oil.

How to Prevent Static Hair in Cold Weather Static hair can be a big problem during the winter when the cold, dry air dehydrates hair. Here are some ways to calm those electric locks.

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STEP 1: Deep-condition your hair regularly. (See Related eHow "How to DeepCondition Hair".) Properly moisturized hair is less likely to be affected by static. STEP 2: Use a "leave-in" conditioner on your hair after you wash it, or apply conditioning hair gel. These products help to weigh the hair down. STEP 3: Spray your hairbrush or comb with an anti-static spray before you run it through your hair. STEP 4: Keep a fabric softener sheet handy and run it over your hair when it starts to get out of control. Carry it in your purse so you can use it several times during the day if necessary. STEP 5: Avoid hair products that include ingredients that will dry out your hair, such as alcohol or harsh chemicals such as sodium lauryl sulfates.

How to Remove Gum From Hair Remember all those chunks of hair your mother had to chop when you got gum stuck in it? Before you resort to such drastic measures, try the methods below.

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STEP 1: Put ice cubes in a plastic bag. •

STEP 2: Apply ice cubes to gum until gum freezes and hardens.

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STEP 3: Gently break gum away from the hair.

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STEP 4: If the freezing method fails, apply a small amount of nontoxic oil, such as canola or olive oil, to hair around gum and to gum itself. •

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STEP 5: Massage oil into hair and gum; leave for 20 minutes.

STEP 6: Gently comb out gum. It should slide out easily. If it doesn't, repeat the process.

How to Treat Head Lice Pediculosis, better known as head lice, is an extremely contagious infestation of small white insects known as lice. Their eggs are known as nits, and usually attach themselves to hair close to the scalp or body. Lice are spread by sharing infested clothing and items, and by direct personal contact.

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STEP 1: Assess whether you or your child actually has lice. Symptoms include itching, swollen glands in the back of the neck, foul-smelling hair, and small, oval white or gray-white spots stuck to the hair shaft. STEP 2: Check for live lice and nits. Work in strong light and section the hair. Use a fine-tooth comb (a pet flea comb works well) to find the insects and to comb them out if possible; or remove them using tweezers, your finger-nails, or a piece of tape wrapped around your finger, sticky side up. Adult lice are reddishbrown; nits are white or clear and adhere to the hair shaft. They do not jump or fly. STEP 3: Check everyone in the household. Lice are very contagious. STEP 4: Wash all bedding, recently used towels and recently worn clothing in hot water, and dry them in a hot dryer. Soak all combs and brushes in hot water for at least 10 minutes. STEP 5: Treat eyelashes and eyebrows with a thick layer of petroleum jelly. Apply twice a day for eight days. Never use any chemical treatment on eyelashes or eyebrows. STEP 6: Try using olive oil or mayonnaise on the head. There is some evidence that it works by smothering the nits. Massage it into the hair and leave it in as long as possible. Manually comb out the nits after the olive oil or mayonnaise application. STEP 7: Use a blow dryer, as heat can kill lice and nits. But exercise caution'avoid placing the dryer too close to the scalp. STEP 8: Examine the hair daily to make sure that all nits and lice are gone. If you see more nits, it may mean that there are still lice in the hair or that re-infestation has occurred. STEP 9: Report the presence of lice to your child's school so the staff or faculty can check for an outbreak. Children with a lice infection should be kept home from school. They can return after the lice have been removed or have been treated with a commercial product. STEP 10: Check with your pharmacist to make sure that any product you plan to use does not contain lindane. The National Pediculosis Association strongly advises against using lindane because it has been associated with a number of serious medical conditions, including seizures and possibly cancer.

How to Fix Hair Disasters A stylish new hairdo can do wonders for one's self-esteem. Conversely, a poorly shorn or styled head can make even confident, self-assured people feel sheepish. While it might take Sigmund Freud to explain the reasons for this, these remedies may restore your lovely locks--and perhaps your self-esteem.

Bad haircut Instructions • • • •

STEP 1: Do not attempt to fix it yourself. STEP 2: Return to the salon or barbershop and demand a new haircut by a different stylist or barber free of charge. STEP 3: Or go to a reputable salon, explain your dilemma and request a remedial haircut. STEP 4: Or consider using a wig, hair extensions or hair additions while you wait for the haircut to grow out.

Bad hair day Instructions • • •

STEP 1: Wet down hair with warm water, add styling mousse or gel, then restyle. STEP 2: If restyling is not an option, cover hair with a hat or scarf. STEP 3: Opt for the slicked-back look if a hat or scarf is unsuitable. Wet hair, add gel or mousse, pull hair into a ponytail. Allow to air-dry.

Bad dye job Instructions • • •

STEP 1: If hair is undercolored because you panicked and rinsed too early, reapply dye and leave on for time required minus time you already had it on. STEP 2: If you chose the wrong color or overcolored your hair, consider using a color-removal product, available at salons and beauty supply stores. STEP 3: Understand that hair-coloring professionals recommend visiting a reputable salon that specializes in hair coloring to correct bad dye jobs.

Botched perm Instructions

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STEP 1: If your home perm did not take, wait three days before you visit a salon to have a professional stylist perm your hair. STEP 2: If the perm is overdone, apply a deep conditioner to hair from scalp to the ends. Leave it on for 15 minutes. Rinse and set hair in large curlers. If that doesn't fix it, have a professional stylist relax your overpermed hair.

Chlorine-green hair Instructions • • • • •

STEP 1: Use a hair product designed to remove green from hair, available at salons, beauty supply stores and drugstores. STEP 2: For swimming, apply leave-in conditioner to hair and wear a swim cap to prevent further greening. STEP 3: Shampoo and rinse hair immediately after swimming. STEP 4: Monitor and reduce copper levels in pool water, which cause greening. STEP 5: If hair is dyed or permed and turns green, visit a reputable salon to have it corrected.

Dandruff Instructions • •

STEP 1: Wash hair with an over-the-counter shampoo designed to fight dandruff. Switch brands if shampoo becomes ineffective after several weeks of use. STEP 2: Consult a dermatologist in extreme cases.

Gum in hair Instructions •

STEP 1: Rub peanut butter into hair and around gum and slowly work gum out of hair. Oil counters gum's stickiness. Shampoo thoroughly afterward. Mayonnaise and butter also work, but not as well as peanut butter.

Hair loss Instructions • • •

STEP 1: Understand that there is little one can do to prevent hair loss if it's hereditary. STEP 2: Use hair products for sensitive hair to avoid unnecessary wear and tear. STEP 3: Visit a dermatologist to learn about cosmetic options, including toupees, weaves and transplants.

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STEP 4: Remember that stress, lack of protein, medication, hormones, pregnancy, disease and poor hair hygiene contribute to hair loss. STEP 5: Be wary of products claiming to stop hair loss; results vary widely. STEP 6: Sudden, smooth, round bald spots on scalp or beard are called alopecia areata. Wait for them to disappear (usually 6 to 12 months) or visit a dermatologist for treatment.

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STEP 1: Cover your work area with towels to prevent contamination of upholstery or carpets. STEP 2: Working under bright light, partition hair into sections and comb through hair with a fine-tooth comb (ideally a lice comb, available at drugstores). Remove lice (reddish-brown) and nits (white or clear) as you comb. Use mayonnaise to smother lice and nits while you comb. Repeat combings for two weeks. STEP 3: Boil the comb after you use it to sanitize it for future use. STEP 4: Wash towels, sheets, pillowcases, hats and other contaminated clothing in the washer with hot water. Use a hot setting to dry the items in the dryer. Vacuum contaminated fabric, upholstery or carpeting. STEP 5: Use an anti-lice shampoo if you prefer, but remember that these products contain pesticides. Consult your doctor before using anti-lice products if you are pregnant, allergic or have pre-existing medical conditions. Avoid treatments containing lindane, which has caused neurological damage in children.

How to Get Men's Haircuts for Balding Men Cindy McKie is a professional hairstylist who has over ten years experience in the industry. She now works as a freelance writer. For millions of men, losing their hair is a harsh reality. Many times men are tempted to compensate for their hair loss by growing what hair they have as long as they can or, even worse, resorting to the dreaded “comb over.” However, going bald doesn’t have to mean a lifetime of bad hairstyles.

Men's Haircuts for a Receding Hairline Instructions

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STEP 1: Accept that going bald is a hereditary condition you will most likely have to live with for the rest of your life. Though there are some treatments on the market, such as hair transplants or prescription medications, most men have to accept the hair they have and learn to adjust their hairstyle accordingly. STEP 2: Grow the front bang section of your hair slightly longer in order to cover up the hair loss, such as actor Charlie Sheen does, for an early stage receding hairline. To achieve this let your stylist know that you want more hair left in the front to cover up the receding portion. Your stylist will be sure to leave the hair at the temples longer in order to compensate for the hair loss. STEP 3: Consider longer hair. Wearing your hair at medium length all over, such as Owen Wilson’s shag hairstyle, is also a great option for masking a receding hairline. The longer bangs are worn over the forehead, and the sides and back blend with similar lengths. STEP 4: Consider short. If longer hair isn’t your style, opt for a shorter men's haircut. Having hair shorter in the front and on top will allow you to blend the thinner hair with the rest. George Clooney or Hugh Laurie both have slight recession at the temples so not much is required to blend the balding spots. Your best bet for receding temples is to keep the hair short so there’s not such a contrast between your hair and the balding temples. STEP 5: Consider a change in hairstyle as the hair begins to recede more. If your hair is still relatively thick everywhere besides the temples you can opt for a haircut similar to Nicholas Cage. Wearing your hair in a medium-short fashion and back off your forehead is great for those who aren’t as self conscious about their receding hair and just want a great look. Sometimes a great haircut is all that is necessary and the receding temples are less noticed. STEP 6: Consider the buzz. Another option for those who can’t be bothered to fight the battle of the bald is to go super short and shave the hair in a “buzz cut” fashion. Think Bruce Willis or Lance Armstrong for great examples of men going super short and still looking sexy. There is a time when covering up your balding head just becomes a practice in futility. Instead of having a bad hairstyle in an attempt to cover up your hairline just go with it and set yourself free. A buzz cut is super low maintenance and looks great on the right shaped head. STEP 7: Opt for a short cut with the top being left only slightly longer if you can’t bear to bare it all. Use some gel to spike the front or top like Kiefer Sutherland. This hairstyle takes the focus away from where the hair isn’t and places it on where the hair is. If you style the hair you have well, the thinner areas fade into the background.

How to Prevent Split Ends You can't mend a broken heart or a split end, but you sure can prevent them. Here are some steps to prevent split ends, anyway.

Instructions

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STEP 1: Take care not to split them in the first place, because the only cure is a trim, according to trichologists (hair doctors) everywhere. STEP 2: Don't brush hair when it's wet, because that's when it is at its most vulnerable. STEP 3: Cool it on the heat styling tricks. That means cut down on hair dryers, straightening irons, crimpers, curling irons and hot curlers. STEP 4: Buy a natural-bristle brush that won't pull on hair and ultimately break it off, thereby causing a possible split end. STEP 5: Wear a hat to minimize sun damage. STEP 6: Use a shampoo that lists sunscreen as a major ingredient. STEP 7: Condition after shampooing, and use a deep conditioner once a month. STEP 8: Try a hair split repair product. It won't actually repair the hair, but it will minimize the stray hair look you hate. STEP 9: Get a trim every six weeks.

How to Remove Unsightly Facial Hair If you aspire to have a silky-smooth, hairless face, try some of the methods below.

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STEP 1: Shave it, but remember that this is a temporary method of facial hair removal that is not recommended for women. Regrowth tends to occur rapidly. STEP 2: Tweeze it. Tweezing is a good, although somewhat painful way to remove small areas of unwanted facial hair. Because the hair is plucked out at the root, it takes longer for regrowth to appear. STEP 3: Use depilatory creams, gels and lotions, which contain a chemical that alters the structure of the hair for easy removal. This chemical can be irritating to skin, so use only a product especially formulated for the face. Always do a skin test on a small area of the face before using the product, and follow directions exactly to avoid irritation or chemical burns. STEP 4: Consider waxing every 4 to 6 weeks, in which you apply hot or cold wax to the area of unwanted hair. The hair becomes affixed to the wax and the wax is then pulled off the skin, taking the hair with it. Test a small area of your skin for an allergic reaction before using, and do not use wax on sunburned or irritated skin. STEP 5: Think about electrolysis, a permanent hair removal method in which an electrical current is used to destroy the hair root. Several treatments may be required over a period of time, as each hair follicle must be destroyed individually. STEP 6: Laser it. Hair removal by laser must be done by a licensed professional. It can be expensive and time-consuming, and it may not be permanent. It is best to discuss your situation with a professional. You can find one by looking in the yellow pages under "Hair Removing."

How to Remove Unsightly Body Hair Unwanted hair? No problem. There are several options to choose from that will safely, and in some cases permanently, get rid of it. You may want to experiment with a few of them to decide what works best for you.

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STEP 1: Shave it. Shaving is a popular way to remove unwanted hair, although hair tends to grow back quickly. STEP 2: Use a depilatory product, which temporarily removes hair by chemically dissolving it. When purchasing a depilatory product, be sure it is formulated for the area of the body on which you intend to use it. Do a sensitivity test before using it on large areas, and follow directions carefully. STEP 3: Consider waxing every 4 to 6 weeks, in which you apply hot or cold wax to an area of the skin with unwanted hair. The hair adheres to the wax and is removed when the wax is peeled off. Because waxing removes hair at the root, regrowth occurs slowly. STEP 4: Tweeze it. Tweezing removes hair at the root, but is not practical for large areas of hair. STEP 5: Think about electrolysis. Using an electrical current, this process can remove some hair permanently by destroying the hair follicle. Home electrolysis devices are available, but most people opt for professional treatment. Large areas of unwanted hair may require several sessions. STEP 6: Laser it. Laser treatment destroys hair follicles, but may not result in permanent hair removal. Laser treatments should be performed by a licensed professional.

How to Fix Frizzy Hair Article Badges: Curly hair by its very nature is delicate. When it becomes damaged or dry, the curls frizz out. Here are some tricks to keep frizziness at bay.

Instructions • • •

STEP 1: Learn to like your curls. Straightening efforts and hair relaxants damage hair. STEP 2: Keep shampooing to a minimum since shampoo tends to dry out hair. If you do wash your hair daily, dilute shampoo with an equal amount of water. STEP 3: Use a daily conditioner to keep hair moisturized. Finger-brush your hair while the conditioner is in it. Then rinse.

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STEP 4: Apply a leave-in conditioner or anti-frizz serum to your damp hair. STEP 5: Deep-condition your hair once a week. STEP 6: To touch up your hair in the afternoon, moisten your fingers with water and a small amount of conditioner. Run your fingers through your hair and smooth out the frizz.

How to Conceal Hair Loss Both men and women can be subject to hair loss. Although you can't do much to prevent it, you can take steps to hide it.

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STEP 1: Consult with a physician or dermatologist before considering any method to conceal hair loss. STEP 2: Think about wearing a hat or bandana, when appropriate, or even a toupee or hairpiece. You can get a hairpiece made to fit your remaining hair or bald head and wear it even during swimming and other athletic activities. However, in addition to the initial cost of the hairpiece, you often have to pay for a plan, which involves payments for maintaining hairpieces over the years. STEP 3: Conceal thinning hair with hair weaves or extensions, available for people of all ethnicities. See your hairstylist for more information. STEP 4: Try one of the medications that help to regrow hair. The two most popular'albeit expensive'products are minoxidil topical (Rogaine) and finasteride (Propecia). Results vary widely for Rogaine, which you apply to the scalp, and Propecia, which is an oral prescription medication. STEP 5: Consider hair transplants. This surgical procedure takes healthy hair from one part of your head and transplants it to a bald area. Keep in mind that a licensed dermatologist experienced in this area must perform the procedure. STEP 6: Investigate other forms of surgery, such as scalp reduction, which involves removing the bald part of your scalp and pulling the remaining portions together, and flap surgery, which involves pulling a receding hairline forward.

How to Keep Hair Healthy and Manageable During Winter Months Indoor heating and daily blow-drying, common perils of the winter season, can leave hair deprived of moisture. Plus, winter hats can cause flat and static-filled hair. Ack! Here's how to avoid those bad hair days.

Instructions

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STEP 1: Get a haircut or trim by mid-autumn to remove any damage caused by the summer elements. Follow with a deep-conditioning treatment to replenish moisture loss, and repeat once or twice a month throughout the season. STEP 2: Alternate your regular shampoo and conditioner with a moisture-rich formula to combat seasonal dryness. Since you're likely to blow-dry your hair more frequently in the winter, use a heat-protectant spray before you flip the switch, and dry on a low setting whenever possible. STEP 3: Add volume to hair flattened by hats or scarves by styling it with mousse. Reactivate it with moist fingertips when you reach work in the morning, flipping your head and lifting your roots for added fullness. STEP 4: Combat hair static by switching to a leave-in conditioner. Towel-dry freshly shampooed hair, then evenly distribute a dollop of the product before styling. STEP 5: Give your scalp a nice massage a few times a week to keep oxygenated blood moving to your roots. It will relax your senses and promote hair growth.

How to Buy Ways to Counter Hair Loss The loss of one's hair can be a grievous blow to self-image and confidence. Medications, illness, heredity, pregnancy, menopause, changing hormone levels and stress can all contribute to hair loss. Other culprits are chemotherapy, hereditary baldness or alopecia.

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STEP 1: Consult your doctor, dermatologist or an endocrinologist to eliminate medical causes such as thyroid issues or alopecia. Rule out any dietary contributors by making sure you're getting all the vitamins, protein and calories you need. STEP 2: Apply over-the-counter minoxidil (Rogaine) to thinning or balding patches twice a day. The exact way this medicine works is not known, but it is thought to cause dilation of the blood vessels in the scalp. If you stop treatment once you've started, hair loss will resume within a few months. STEP 3: Try prescription-only Propecia or Proscar, which have been found to work rather well for women. The active ingredient finasteride blocks the formation of active testosterone and allows those hairs predisposed to inactivity to become active again and make new hairs. The two brands have different dosages of finasteride. STEP 4: Explore hair-replacement surgery options. Mini- or micrografting may offer the most natural results. A strip of scalp with hair is divided into a few hundred tiny grafts with just a few strands apiece, then inserted into minuscule slits in the scalp. Skilled surgeons ensure all hair is growing in the same direction. Make sure to see live examples of the surgeon's work before proceeding. STEP 5: Discuss treatment options with your doctor for alopecia. While very little is known about the disorder, there is evidence of a genetic component as well as a link to autoimmune problems. Depending on the variety (areata: spots on

the head; totalis: the entire head; or universalis: all body hair), there's a good chance that cortisone injections on the head and eyebrows will spur hair growth. Injections can be painful but may offer a huge morale boost for people who would do just about anything to look the way they used to

How to Get Gum out of Hair It's a common occurrence - your child falls asleep with gum in their mouth and the next morning you are trying to pick gum out of their hair! Before you break out the scissors, here is an easy way to make the job a little less stressful.

Things You'll Need •

Ice

Instructions • • •

STEP 1: Get an ice cube out of the freezer. STEP 2: Rub the ice on the gum. This will harden the gum and make it less sticky. STEP 3: Pull the gum out of the hair.

How to Prevent Puffy Hair in Humid Weather If humidity makes your hair go "poof" or your straight hair suddenly springs into curls, here are some tips for maintaining your hairstyle.

Instructions •

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STEP 1: Work with it. If your hair normally has curl or wave to it, it will become more curly when the humidity is high. Consider going with a layered style that accentuates curls. STEP 2: Wear your hair longer during humid months. The extra weight of the hair will keep it from puffing out as much. STEP 3: Use humidity-resistant or anti-frizz hair care products in everything from shampoo to hair spray. STEP 4: Wear your hair in a ponytail or bun. STEP 5: If you can't seem to tame the curl or frizz, consider getting your hair professionally straightened.

How to remove a knot or tangle from hair Wet or dry, trying to brush or comb out a tangle in your hair can be a painful and frustrating experience. You can lessen them both by following a few simple steps.

Things You'll Need • • •

Hair brush or comb Hair clips - optional Leave in or spray conditioner - optional

Instructions • • •

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STEP 1: Section off the area with the tangle. You can use hair clips if you wish, to do this. STEP 2: With your left hand (right if you are left handed) wrap your hand around the section of hair. STEP 3: Grasp and hold the section of hair tightly. You should not be 'pulling' on the hair. There should be a bit of 'slack' - leaving the hair from your hand to the scalp 'loose'. Holding this hand / hair in place will prevent 'pulling' of the hair from the scalp when you begin to comb through it. STEP 4: Starting from about 1 inch from the tips of the hair, gently begin combing / brushing the hair toward the tips. STEP 5: Once that area is clear of tangles, move up 1/2 inch to 1 inch at a time. With quick, fluid, and even strokes, comb through to the end with each pass. STEP 6: Repeat as needed

How to remove gum from your hair Difficulty: Easy Have you ever had gum stuck in your hair or your child's hair? Almost everyone has had this issue, knows someone who has, or perhaps is the parent of a child who has. Don't cut the hair! There are other ways that will save you from an embarrassing new "style".

Things You'll Need • •

Peanut butter - any brand should work Hair ties or clips - not needed for very short hair

Instructions

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STEP 1: Pull the remaining hair, which is not effected by the gum, away from the area and secure with a hair clip or hair tie. This will allow you to concentrate on only the effected area. STEP 2: Apply a liberal amount of peanut butter to the effected area, extending out about a quarter of an inch, making sure to cover all of the gum. STEP 3: Gently rub the area between your thumb and fingertips. The gum will begin to loose its 'stickiness' and, depending on the gum type, may begin to pull apart or 'crumble'. STEP 4: Slowly begin pulling the gum from the hair. It should remove rather easily. STEP 5: Wash the effected area with shampoo to remove the peanut butter. No traces of the gum should remain.

How to take care of hair issues Difficulty: Moderate Fad diets can cause hair loss by putting stress on the body similar to emotional stress which causes the hair cells to quit reproducing. Diets or rapid changes in eating habits can cause hair loss even if the diets are high in protein. Also, Low protein or vegetarian diets can cause hair problems including hair loss.

Things You'll Need • •

Protein Amino conditioner and Vitamin shampoo. adding essential fatty acids to your diet, if dieting.

Instructions • •

STEP 1: Add protien to hair STEP 2: Give your body b vitamines and amino acids, because stress is one of the major causes for hair loss.

How to Make Beeswax Lip Balm Difficulty: Moderately Easy For soft, kissable lips, make your own beeswax lip balm. Reuse tiny lip gloss tins or jars.

Instructions • • • • •

STEP 1: Melt 1 tsp. shredded beeswax, 2 tsp. coconut oil, 1/2 tsp. lanolin and one vitamin E capsule in the microwave. STEP 2: Add 2 drops of essential oil such as peppermint, orange or lemon. STEP 3: Add 1 tsp. honey. STEP 4: Stir the mixture until cool. STEP 5: Pour into a container and let set until completely cool.

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You can use candy flavorings found in candy stores, chocolate or other scrumptious flavors. Mix and match the above ingredients and use petroleum jelly in place of the coconut oil.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • • • • • • • •

Tiny Tins With Lids Coconut Oil Stirrers Microwave-safe Comtainers Lanolin Vaseline Essential oils Microwaves Oven Beeswax Vitamin E Capsule Honey

How to Choose a Lipstick Color Difficulty: Moderately Easy Lipstick can be subtle, glamorous or flirty, adding the final touch to your day or evening makeup.

Instructions •

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STEP 1: Choose a color that complements the natural shade of your lips and skin. Plums, wines and deep reds flatter a dark skin tone, while light-brown beiges with pink or orange undertones complement a lighter skin tone. Olive skin looks good with brownish reds, light browns and raisin shades of lipstick. STEP 2: Keep colors lighter for daytime and darker for night. Matte and cream finishes offer a subtler daytime look, while a high-gloss finish adds glamour for evening. A sheer, natural-looking color with a little shine also works well for day. STEP 3: Experiment. Head to your local department store and ask a makeup artist to test different shades on your lips. Whenever possible, check in natural light to see how the color really looks with your complexion. STEP 4: Create your own shade by combining colors. If the shades you find don't completely satisfy you, mix your own color. The easiest way to do this is by applying each color to your lips with a lip brush, then blending with the brush on your lips. STEP 5: Opt for a lip liner that is a shade darker than your lipstick and in the same color family. STEP 6: Line lips after applying lipstick, not before. That way you won't end up with a dark circle of lip liner after your lipstick has worn off.

Tips & Warnings • • •

Try a colored gloss or lip tint for a sheer hint of lip color. Buy the colors that look good on you'not the ones that look good in the tube. Deep or bold lip color complements light eye makeup, while light or nude lipstick flatters heavy eye makeup.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • • •

Lip Gloss Lip Brush Lip Liners Facial Tissues Mirrors Lipstick

How to Treat Chapped Lips Difficulty: Easy Chapped lips can have several causes, including dry weather, overexposure to the sun, lip biting and sucking, riboflavin (vitamin B-2) deficiencies and ill-fitting dentures.

Instructions •

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STEP 1: Apply lip balm or petroleum jelly. You can also try coating your lips with skin moisturizer, vitamin E oil or aloe vera gel. These greasy products help keep your lips properly moisturized. STEP 2: Use lip balm that contains sunblock if you are going to be outside. STEP 3: Avoid licking your lips, since the saliva will evaporate and leave them dry. STEP 4: Drink plenty of water to prevent dehydration. STEP 5: Consider moistening the air in your home with a humidifier. STEP 6: Keep in mind that cracks at the corners of your mouth can indicate riboflavin deficiencies; you can treat this with vitamin B-2 supplements. STEP 7: Have a dentist readjust ill-fitting dentures if you believe they might be the cause of your chapped lips.

Tips & Warnings • • •

Before applying lipstick, dab on a very small amount of lip balm or petroleum jelly to give your lips a little moisture. Severely cracked lips can become infected. Use over-the-counter antibiotic ointments to guard against this. If symptoms persist or if you have specific medical conditions or concerns, we recommend you contact a physician. This information is not intended as a substitute for professional medical advice or treatment.

Overall Things You'll Need • •

Lip Balm Chap-Stick

How to Apply Lipstick and Lip Liner Difficulty: Moderately Easy Lipstick adds the final touch to any makeup application. Lining the lips creates subtle definition and perfects the shape of the lips.

Instructions •

STEP 1: Consider your lipstick color and finish. You'll do well with colors that match the natural shade of your lips, opting for darker tones that complement your overall coloring. Matte lipsticks offer a muted finish complementary to workday makeup, while satin and gloss finishes offer appealing evening looks.

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STEP 2: Apply all other makeup before putting on lipstick and lip liner. STEP 3: Begin by dabbing on a very small amount of lip balm or petroleum jelly to give your lips a little moisture.

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STEP 4: Draw a thin line along the edge of your lips with a lip liner whose color is one shade darker than your lipstick. Start at the center of the upper lip and work outward. Hug the very outer edges to open up thin lips, and line well within the edges to downplay excessively full lips.

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STEP 5: Apply lipstick from the tube or by using a firm, small lipstick brush. Coat the lips evenly. Pay special attention to staying within the lips' edges.

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STEP 6: Blot to remove any excess color and to even out the texture. •

STEP 7: Remember to touch lips up after a meal, as lipstick easily transfers onto coffee cups, water bottles and soda cans.

Tips & Warnings •

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For longer-lasting lip color, shade both lips with lip liner after defining them. As lipstick fades throughout the day, the liner offers a hint of color before you have a chance to reapply. Balance heavy eye makeup with a soft lip color. Wear a rich and boldly colored lipstick to complement soft eye makeup. Give the illusion of a thicker top lip by lining its outermost edges and foregoing liner on the bottom lip. Chill lip liner for easier sharpening. Forego lipstick if you have a cold sore. Opt instead for a camphor-based lip balm to aid in healing.

Overall Things You'll Need •

Lipstick

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Lip Balm Lip Brush Lip Liners Facial Tissues Mirrors

How to Select Lipstick That Complements African-American Coloring Difficulty: Moderately Easy Lipstick adds a touch of glamour and sophistication to your look, and it's a great way to even out lips that vary in shade. When deciding on a color, think not only about your skin tone, but your blush and the tones in your outfit as well.

Instructions •

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STEP 1: Consider lipstick shades that complement your skin tone. Look for deep currants and luscious plums if your skin is ebony or a rich deep brown, and consider coffees, terracottas and brownish reds if you have medium-brown skin. Lighter skin is radiant in varying shades of caramel, peach and coral. STEP 2: Choose a lip liner that is one shade darker than your lipstick color. This will add definition, and when filled into the lips, will promote longer-lasting color. STEP 3: Remember that darker tones will enhance the size of your lips, while lighter shades will appear to minimize them. STEP 4: Wear lip and blush colors that are in the same color family. Opt for coppery and golden lipstick shades when wearing a bronzer. STEP 5: Add a touch of foundation to darker lips before applying lip color. Or fill lighter lips in with lip pencil before applying lipstick to both lips. STEP 6: Choose a finish appropriate to the occasion. Matte formulas offer a classic, more conservative look, while glossy formulas make for a sexy pout.

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Experiment with lip colors at a cosmetics counter, particularly if your goal is to even out the color of your lips. Make sure the lighting in the store is good, or slip outside with a hand mirror for a better look. Matte formulas can dry out lips. Apply lip balm at night to give your lips a moisture boost while you sleep.

Overall Things You'll Need

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Foundation Bronzer Lipstick Mirrors Lip Liners Lip Balm Lip Gloss

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Tips & Warnings •

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Overall Things You'll Need • • • • • • •

Foundation Bronzer Lipstick Mirrors Lip Liners Lip Balm Lip Gloss

How to Fix Bleeding Lipstick Difficulty: Easy Article Badges: Make sure he notices the fireworks of your good-night kiss, not your messy lipstick. Bleeding means that you've applied your lipstick improperly. Here's how to get it right.

Instructions •

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STEP 1: Apply foundation to your lips and allow it to dry for a minute. The foundation fills in the tiny creases around your lips where the lipstick will likely seep. STEP 2: Follow up with a light application of translucent face powder. STEP 3: Line your lips with a lip liner. This not only outlines the shape of your lips but creates a border to keep the color right on your lips, where it should be. STEP 4: Fill in the outline with the lipstick color, either using a makeup brush or directly applying the lipstick. STEP 5: Allow the color to set for a few moments and then lightly powder your lips to seal in the color. STEP 6: Touch up your lips with lip liner and lipstick throughout the day. If the lipstick bleeds, remove it with a moistened cotton swab and reapply the foundation, powder, liner and lipstick.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • • •

Lipstick Makeup Brush Translucent Face Powder Foundation Lip Liner Cotton Swab

Overall Tips & Warnings •

Matte (nonglossy) lipsticks are less likely to run than glossy or shiny ones.

How to Select Lipstick That Complements Asian Coloring Difficulty: Moderately Easy Lip color can vary by season and occasion. You may opt for more dramatic lips to ring in the new year and stick to a softer shade for a weekend afternoon. Your options are endless, so pucker up and play with that pout.

Instructions • • • • •

STEP 1: Let a bluish-red lend glamour to a porcelain complexion. Add drama to yellow-toned skin with a raisin or plum shade. STEP 2: Get a touch of color with a tinted gloss. Consider ruby or coffee shades for evening, and mauves, taupes and caramels for day. STEP 3: Choose a lip liner that's a shade or two darker than your lipstick. Lining your lips will add definition and help keep your lip color from bleeding. STEP 4: Balance heavy eye makeup with a more subdued lip color. Pair a bold lip color with softer eye makeup. STEP 5: Skip pastel and frosted shades, which can leave Asian complexions washed out or flat. Do look for soft colors that have a delicate shimmer or subtle shine.

Tips & Warnings •

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Check out the new color sticks that can go from cheek to eyes to lips. This is a great option for busy, on-the-go gals, or those who prefer a simpler beauty regime. If you fill in your lips with liner before applying lipstick, your lip color will last a lot longer. Apply lip balm once a day or choose moisture-rich lip color formulas to counteract dry or chapped lips.

Overall Things You'll Need • • •

Lipstick Lip Balm Foundation

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Lip Liners Lip Gloss Face Powder

How to Prevent and Remedy Bleeding Lipstick Difficulty: Moderately Easy If you slip into the bathroom after lunch to find your lipstick feathered or bleeding, don't fret! A few quick tips can prevent and remedy this beauty dilemma.

Prevention Instructions •

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STEP 1: Prime your lips with a very small amount of foundation. Select a matte lipstick, as the creamier formulas are more likely to run. After lining your lips, apply the lipstick evenly, but avoid the outermost edges of the lips. STEP 2: Consider lip liner and lip balm as an alternative to lipstick. Outline the shape of the lips with a lip liner, then shade the inside to fill in with color. Apply lip balm or a small amount of gloss to the center of the lips, and press lips to distribute.

Tips & Warnings • •

Avoid applying runny glosses over lipstick. Apply lip balm before bed to moisturize your lips. Matte lipsticks, lip liner and foundation can dry out the lips.

Remedy Instructions • • • •

STEP 1: Carry cotton swabs, foundation and pressed powder in your portable makeup bag. STEP 2: Remove any lipstick from the skin by gently swiping the area with a swab. STEP 3: Reset makeup by applying a very small amount of foundation to the skin surrounding the lips. Follow with pressed powder. STEP 4: Reapply lip color.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • • • •

Foundation Cotton Swabs Lipstick Mirrors Lip Liners Lip Balm Lip Brush

Skin There's nothing worse than over-the-top makeup. Find out everything you ever wanted to know about how to apply makeup including choosing the best colors for you, common mistakes to avoid, makeup application tips for teens, buying cosmetics and more. Aside from advice on makeup application, eHow also has pointers on a range of topics like treating puffy eyes, fixing chapped lips and plucking your eyebrows

How to Conceal Freckles Difficulty: Moderately Easy If you're absolutely certain you don't love your unique distinguishing marks, experiment with these tips and techniques.

Instructions

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STEP 1: Try over-the-counter bleaching agents to lighten the freckles you've already earned, but know that you can't erase them entirely.

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STEP 2: Apply tinted moisturizer or foundation, if you prefer light coverage, in a shade slightly darker than your natural skin tone to blend in and downplay your freckles.

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STEP 3: Slather on sunblock with an SPF rating of 15 or higher every time you go outside, even in cloudy or overcast weather. As your skin tans, so do your freckles. Self-tanners will make your skin appear darker, but they will also darken your freckles.

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STEP 4: Talk to a dermatologist if you want to try stronger measures intended to eliminate freckles. Ask about the pros and cons of acid or chemical peels, lasers and various bleaching agents available only by prescription.

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Protect your skin from sun to avoid a new crop of freckles. Freckles are inherited; limiting your sun exposure is the only way to prevent them. That's why you probably don't have any freckles on your derriere. Learn the difference between moles and freckles, and keep an eye on the growth and shape of moles (see 'Examine a Mole,' under Related eHows). Let your doctor know about any significant changes.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • •

Bleach/lightening Treatments Sunscreen Appointment With Skin Doctors Concealer Concealer Brushes

How to Determine Your Skin Type Difficulty: Easy Determining your skin type is easy, and the information will help you when buying moisturizers, cosmetics and facial cleansers.

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STEP 1: Wash your face with a skin cleanser, then rinse and pat dry. STEP 2: Wait one hour. STEP 3: Note whether your skin feels "tight." STEP 4: Press a separate piece of tissue onto each area of your face: chin, center of cheeks, outer cheeks, center of forehead, outer forehead and nose. STEP 5: Examine each tissue and look for oily residue or flaky skin residue. STEP 6: Interpret the results. Oil on each tissue indicates an oily skin type, while oil on only some tissues (specifically those on the T-zone, which is the center of forehead, nose, chin and center of cheeks) indicates a combination skin type.

Flaky skin residue on all tissues - without oily residue - or a tight feeling in the skin indicates a dry skin type. No oil and no flaky residue on any parts of the tissue indicates a normal skin type.

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Pore size is another indication of skin type; small pores generally indicate dry skin, while large pores mean oily skin. Remember that there are many factors that affect your skin type, such as weather, emotions, hormones and stress, and this will cause your skin type to be in a constant state of fluctuation. "Combination skin" products that claim to serve different functions on different parts of the face are suspicious. You're better off using different products on different areas.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • •

Mild Facial Cleansers Hand Or Wash Towels Oil-free Moisturizers Oil-free Facial Cleansers

How to Choose a Blush Color Difficulty: Moderately Easy Blush has long been considered a beauty must. With just a few brush strokes, you can lift a flat or pale complexion to a pretty glow.

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STEP 1: Consider blush colors that match the color of your cheeks after an aerobic workout. Such shades mimic your natural coloring and help you avoid having cheeks that look painted or artificial. STEP 2: Head to a department store and have a makeup artist assist you in finding a complementary shade. Check your options in natural lighting whenever possible. STEP 3: Remember, the darker your skin tone, the darker your blush should be. Women with fair complexions usually look best in pink or coral shades, while darker complexions are enhanced by wine or burgundy hues. STEP 4: Keep daytime blush light in tone. Opt for a heavier application to create a more dramatic evening look.

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STEP 5: Match the undertones in your lipstick to the color of your blush. If your lips are red, opt for a pink or reddish cheek color. For pink or rose-colored lips, opt for similar hues in your blush color.

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Avoid choosing a color just because you think it looks pretty in the case. To enhance your beauty, it must complement your coloring. Consider bronzer as an alternative to blush. Applied to all areas of the face, it gives a sun-kissed glow without any damaging rays.

Overall Things You'll Need • • •

Blush Brush Blush Mirrors

How to Choose a Blush Color Difficulty: Moderately Easy Blush has long been considered a beauty must. With just a few brush strokes, you can lift a flat or pale complexion to a pretty glow.

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Tips & Warnings

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Overall Things You'll Need • • •

Blush Brush Blush Mirrors

How to Apply Powder Difficulty: Easy Powder sets your makeup, creating a shine-free, even finish. Use loose powder at home, and carry a pressed powder compact for a midday touchup.

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STEP 1: Apply a loose powder after you have completed the application of your foundation and concealer, and before applying eye makeup. STEP 2: Release powder into the top section of the container by tipping the container and gently tapping the bottom.

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STEP 3: Take a large fluffy brush or a powder puff and dip it into the powder. Tap the tool lightly over the container to remove any excess.

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STEP 4: Dust your face with powder. Stroke your face gently to cover all areas evenly.

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STEP 5: Touch up your makeup throughout the day using pressed powder. Dab a small amount of powder onto a cosmetic puff and apply it to shiny areas or places where your makeup has become thin.

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Opt for an oil-free powder if you have oily skin.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • •

Powder Face Powder Powder Puffs Facial Tissues Mirrors Makeup Brushes

How to Apply Blush Difficulty: Easy Bring radiance and glow to your face with a little sweep of blush. The application is quick and the results gratifying.

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STEP 1: Select a color of blush that resembles the natural glow of your cheeks after you exercise. Consider having a lighter color for day, and a darker tone for a more dramatic evening look. Keep your blush in the same color family as your lipstick. STEP 2: Consider the type of blush best suited to your skin type. Cream blush works very well for drier skin, as it can help to keep skin hydrated. Powder blush is better suited to oily skin. STEP 3: Complete the application of foundation, powder and all eye makeup before applying blush. STEP 4: Use a full, round brush for the application of your powder blush, as it will make for a softer and more professional look than the brush that comes with the blush. This should not be the same brush you use to apply your loose powder.

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STEP 5: Place a small amount of blush on the brush and gently tap off any excess. Or, place a small amount of cream on your middle finger.

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STEP 6: Look in the mirror and smile.

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STEP 7: Place powder blush on the apple of your cheek and gently brush up your cheekbone toward your hairline. Dot cream blush beginning at the apple, and gently blend up the cheekbone toward the hairline. •

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STEP 8: Focus your blush at the outside of your face near your hairline if you have a fuller face. For high cheekbones, concentrate blush in the center of your face to accentuate your bones. STEP 9: Blend a little blush down your cheek for a little more natural, less dramatic look.

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For rosier cheeks, consider gel or liquid tints. Wash your hands after use, as these products may stain the hands. Remember that the lighter your skin tone, the lighter your blush color should be. Wash brushes regularly with a makeup remover or nonsoap cleanser. Avoid following the underside of your cheekbones, which makes for an artificial and unbecoming look.

Overall Things You'll Need • • •

Blush Brush Blush Mirrors

How to Choose a Powder Color Difficulty: Moderately Easy A good powder sets your makeup, creating a smooth, shine-free and even complexion. For a natural and flawless finish, select colors that match your skin tone or foundation as closely as possible.

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STEP 1: Make sure your foundation, if you wear any, disappears as you blend it into your skin. Powder can either complement the perfect foundation color or serve to neutralize any slight color imbalance. STEP 2: Head to a department store counter and talk to a veteran beauty consultant. Bring your foundation along, or go with freshly applied foundation so you can test powder colors over your everyday makeup. STEP 3: Start with colors that match your skin tone. You may be inundated with pink, yellow, green and purple shades all designed to make your skin look its best. Stick to what you feel comfortable with and what you can see makes your skin look good. STEP 4: Check the colors you test in good lighting, or step outside to consider your options in natural light. You're looking for a color that blends with your skin, rather than sitting on top of it. STEP 5: Remember that translucent powder still has color in it. Some may advise that this is the most natural option, but it may render you pale or pasty.

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Loose powder sets your makeup in the morning; pressed powder is for daily touchups. Pressed powder may seem darker because it's packed more densely. Test all colors before buying. Bring a trusted companion along for an honest second opinion.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • •

Foundation Makeup Brushes Mirrors Face Powder

How to Apply Glitter to Your Face and Body Difficulty: Moderately Easy Go glamorous by wearing a little glitter on your next evening out. Shimmer, shine, razzle or dazzle with silver, gold or a frosted pastel.

Instructions

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STEP 1: Take a moment to consider the look you'd like to achieve. Do you want to add sparkle to your face or shimmer to your body? Most products are face or body specific. STEP 2: Consider the color of your makeup and the color of your outfit when selecting a shade. Gold complements a warmer complexion, while silver works best on cool-toned complexions. Match colored glitter to hues in your makeup and clothing. STEP 3: Complete your makeup before applying glitter to your face. Using a very small amount of glitter, dab it gently near the eyes, just above the lash tips or at the outer corners of the eyes. STEP 4: Get dressed before applying body glitter. Your choices will range between glitter powders, gels and lotions. STEP 5: Focus on exposed skin, such as the chest, back, lower legs and tops of the feet. Place a small amount of the product in your hands and distribute a thin layer over the area you want to cover. Apply the glitter to your body using smooth, consistent strokes. STEP 6: Enlist the help of a friend to access hard-to-reach places.

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Wash your hands well immediately after application to remove any residual glitter from your palms. Use products around your eyes that are specifically formulated for the face to avoid any undesired flaking or running into the eyes.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • •

Glitter Makeup Body Glitters Lip Gloss Shimmery Powders

How to Choose Concealer Difficulty: Moderate Offering more coverage than a foundation, concealer is ideal for camouflaging facial imperfections. It will neutralize and balance the look of a blemish and those dreaded under-eye circles.

Instructions

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STEP 1: Consider concealers that are one to two shades lighter than your skin tone. Remember that the idea is to make a darker spot blend into your complexion. STEP 2: Select a concealer most appropriate for the area you wish to cover. A creamier version is recommended for the delicate under-eye area, while a drier formula is better suited to other facial skin. STEP 3: Test variations of a yellow-based concealer, since white, green and pink concealers can leave you with colored rather than concealed imperfections. STEP 4: Sample a few versions. Consult with makeup artists from a few lines and request a sample to try. When purchasing from a drugstore, ensure that you can return any item that doesn't complement your coloring.

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Concealer may be all you need to balance out your complexion. Many women forego the foundation, set their concealer with powder and head out! Go a shade darker during the summer months, when you have a little more color to your skin.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • • •

Purse Mirrors Foundation Makeup Sponges Face Powder Concealer Concealer Brushes

How to Choose Foundation Difficulty: Moderate To even out your skin's appearance and create the illusion of flawless skin, head to the cosmetics counter. The right foundation can do wonders.

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STEP 1: Consider your skin type. If you have oily skin, stick with an oil-free formula. If you have drier skin, select a creamier formula that offers moisturizing benefits. STEP 2: Decide what type of look you'd like to achieve. Foundations can offer sheer to heavy coverage and finishes that range from satiny to matte.

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STEP 3: Test the colors of your preferred formula on your jawline, which offers the truest facial coloring. Any foundation will look slightly darker in the bottle, so keep this in mind when assessing your options. STEP 4: Blend in the foundation gently with a makeup sponge. The foundation should disappear into your skin. If you find you're between shades, blend two colors together, or keep looking for a brand that offers the perfect shade. STEP 5: Bring a hand mirror along so you can view your options in natural light. STEP 6: Look for yellow-toned foundation or tinted moisturizer if you're Caucasian or Asian; Hispanics should opt for foundation or tinted moisturizers with yellow-orange undertones. If you are African-American, it's a good idea to use light, medium and dark shades of foundation to allow for different gradations of color on different parts of your face. STEP 7: Remember that you have plenty of options to choose from, so if you don't find a good color match, keep looking.

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For sheer, no-nonsense coverage, consider using a tinted moisturizer. Look for the many extras some foundation formulas offer, such as sunscreen or ingredients that hide fine lines.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • •

Foundation Makeup Brushes Mirrors Oil-free Foundations Face Powder

Skin Care How to Exfoliate Oily Skin When you exfoliate, you gently abrade the skin and remove the top layer of dead cells. Exfoliating helps to hide fine wrinkles and gives your skin a rosy glow.

Instructions • •

STEP 1: Wet your body in the tub or shower. STEP 2: Use a synthetic scrubbing sponge, exfoliating gloves or a body loofah.

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STEP 3: Apply an exfoliating cleanser to your skin or sprinkle it onto your sponge. Some exfoliating cleansers contain as much as 25-percent ground volcanic rock; these are good for oily skin. However, cleansers that dry out oily skin too much can have a rebound effect, causing glands to overproduce oil. STEP 4: Scrub the exfoliating cleanser over your skin using your sponge or loofah; make circular motions. STEP 5: Be gentle over sensitive parts of the body, like delicate neck and thigh tissue. STEP 6: Rinse skin thoroughly. STEP 7: Be sure to follow up with a good moisturizer. Exfoliating dries out your skin. STEP 8: Choose a lotion that is light in petroleum, lanolin and mineral oils. Noncomedogenic lotions - those designed specifically to prevent the formation of pimples - are best.

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Do not over-exfoliate your skin. Although exfoliating will make your skin less oily, it can also cause it to crack. Overly vigorous exfoliating can even break the tiny blood vessels under your skin.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • • •

Oil-free Moisturizers Clay-based Face Masks Exfoliating Products Moisturizing Facial Masks Facial Mud Mask Exfoliating Cleanser

How to Remove Bandage Adhesive From Skin Most first-aid tapes are now made so that little or no adhesive remains on your skin when the tape is removed. Just in case, here's how to remove any sticky stuff that gets left behind.

Instructions •

STEP 1: Lessen the pain when removing a bandage by applying a warm compress. Or spread baby oil or vegetable oil over and around the bandage with a cotton ball. The oil will also remove the adhesive left on the skin.

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STEP 2: To remove a bandage from a wound that should not get wet, blow hot air from a hair dryer on the tape for a few seconds. This softens the adhesive and makes it easier to remove the bandage. STEP 3: Look in the drugstore for an oil-based adhesive remover if there's a lot of bandaging going on in your household.

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To distract a child before removing an adhesive bandage, draw a funny face on the bandage. If commercial bandage strips irritate your skin, try using a sterile gauze pad and paper first-aid tape instead. If your dressing will require frequent changing, using paper first-aid tape can be helpful in avoiding the pain of removing adhesive tape and possible irritation from adhesives. Don't apply antibiotic cream or salve directly to a cut. It's less traumatic to the wound if the cream is put on the bandage first, and then the bandage is applied. Bandages should be changed whenever dirty or wet. After one week, most cuts and wounds are sufficiently healed so that you no longer need a bandage.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • • • •

Gauze Blow Dryers Adhesive Bandages Baby Oil Fun Adhesive Bandages Vegetable Oils Warm Compresses

How to Care for Dry Skin Only a lucky few have 'normal' skin; the rest of us have a dry, oily or combination variety. If dryness is your problem, read on.

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STEP 1: Remember the basics: Drink at least eight glasses of water a day to keep your skin well hydrated; eat a high-quality diet rich in fruits and vegetables; and limit sun exposure. STEP 2: Wash your face no more than twice a day with a gentle cleanser formulated for dry skin. Washing more often can dry your skin. STEP 3: Take short baths or showers and use warm rather than hot water. Try to limit showers and baths to one per day. Use soap only where you need it, such as on your underarms and groin.

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STEP 4: Add a few teaspoons of olive oil or lavender-scented oil to your bath. STEP 5: Pat your skin dry after washing. Avoid rubbing yourself dry with a towel, which can whisk away essential oils needed for moisture. STEP 6: Apply moisturizer while your skin is still damp. Heed the advice of many experts in choosing a moisturizer'less is more when it comes to the ingredient list. STEP 7: Understand that moisturizers contain barriers, which keep water on the skin, and water binders, which whisk moisture from the inner layer of skin to the top layer. Look for ingredients such as glycerin, alpha hydroxy acids, urea and lactic acids (binders), combined with petrolatum, lanolin or silicone derivatives (barriers). You have a choice of hundreds of products. A dermatologist or other skin care expert may be able to advise you on your specific needs, but trial and error will probably be your best bet in finding the product that's right for you. STEP 8: Aim for a comfortable level of humidity in your home or office. Too much heat or too much air-conditioning can rob your skin of moisture.

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Consult an allergist to find out if an allergic reaction might be causing your dry skin. Avoid caffeine and alcohol, which cause dehydration. Steer clear of added fragrance, preservatives and botanicals, which may irritate already dry skin. Check with a doctor if you have irritated, red or scaly skin. You could have a serious condition requiring medical treatment.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • • •

Mild Facial Cleansers Alpha-hydroxy lotions Aloe Vera Gel Lavender Oils Moisturizers Olive (not Virgin) Oil

How to Exfoliate Your Face By mildly abrading your skin with exfoliating agents, you will remove the surface layer of dead cells. Afterward, fine lines will be less visible and your complexion will glow.

Instructions •

STEP 1: Moisten your face with water before exfoliating.

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STEP 2: Use a loofah, exfoliating gloves or a synthetic scrubbing sponge designed for the face. STEP 3: Apply an exfoliating cleanser specially designed for faces to the loofah or sponge. Some exfoliating cleansers contain up to 25 percent pumice, and these should never be used on the face. STEP 4: Rub your face with the loofah or sponge using circular motions. Avoid scrubbing under the eyes, because the skin there is thin and easily damaged by abrasive cleansers and exfoliating sponges. STEP 5: Rinse thoroughly with tepid water. Hot water is harsh on skin, especially delicate face skin. STEP 6: Apply a moisturizer containing alpha or beta hydroxy acids. These acids will continue the exfoliating process, because acids cause additional dead skin cells to slough off. STEP 7: Try an exfoliating mask. Make one by mashing up a papaya and smearing it on your face. The enzymes help exfoliate the skin. Rinse off thoroughly after 15 minutes.

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Use products designed for the face only. Those meant for the rest of your body may be too abrasive and irritating for your face. Your skin may tingle after using alpha or beta hydroxy acids. This is normal and should go away after 15 minutes. Be diligent in keeping moisturizer on your face at all times if you exfoliate regularly. Exfoliating causes the skin to dry out, and dry skin is an invitation for skin to wrinkle. Never overexfoliate with excessively abrasive exfoliating cleansers, or you run the risk of bursting the delicate blood vessels under the skin. If the vessels burst, your skin may appear permanently flushed. This condition, known as telangiectasia, must then be treated using laser surgery.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • • •

Toners Exfoliating Masks Exfoliating Sponges Moisturizers Papayas Exfoliating Gloves

How to Make an Herbal Facial There are a variety of natural facials that you can mix and apply yourself. Below is a simple herbal facial that is easy to make and feels great on your skin.

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STEP 1: Cleanse your face thoroughly before you begin, making sure all makeup is removed. STEP 2: Combine 1 egg white, 1 tbsp. dry milk, 1 tsp. honey and 1/4 tsp. of an herb such as chamomile flowers, fennel, parley, lemongrass or mint leaves. STEP 3: Whisk or blend at low speed for 2 minutes, or until mixture is creamy. STEP 4: Apply to face and throat. STEP 5: Let the mask set for 15 minutes. Sit back and relax. STEP 6: Rinse the mask off entirely with warm water.

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To make a honey mask, replace these ingredients with 1 tsp. honey, 1 tsp. finely ground fennel seed, 1 tsp. olive oil and 1 egg yolk. Follow the steps above, but leave it on your face for 30 minutes before washing. After you cleanse and before you apply the mask, you may want to steam your face to eliminate toxins (see "Give Yourself a Facial," under Related eHows). Steam your face for 8 to 10 minutes and then apply the mask.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • • • •

Dried Herbs Wire Whisks 1 tsp. honey Mild Facial Cleansers 1 eggs white 1 tbsp. dry milk Blenders

How to Purchase the Right Mud Mask There are tons of skin care products on the market that promise to work miracles. With a little information, you'll be able to sort them out and find the products that work for you.

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STEP 1: Determine your skin type (see "How to Determine Your Skin Type"). This will help you choose a mask that has what you need. STEP 2: Look for a mask that is deep-cleaning and has mud or clay in its name if you have oily skin. STEP 3: Choose a moisturizing mask for dry skin. STEP 4: Look for a perfecting or replenishing mask if your skin is dull or tired.

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STEP 5: Select a soothing mask for skin that is blotchy or tight. STEP 6: Ask questions. Your nearest department store will have knowledgeable employees at various cosmetic counters who can help you with questions and concerns regarding your skin. STEP 7: Purchase a mask and try it out at home. If you're not satisfied, return it and continue your search.

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If you're having a hard time selecting a mask, go with a line that you've been satisfied with in the past. If you want answers from a trained expert, call a spa that performs facials and ask to speak with an esthetician. Many people are allergic to natural products found in facial masks.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • •

Toners Exfoliating Products Moisturizers Facial Mud Mask

How to Avoid Getting Age Spots Age spots, also known as liver spots, are common in fair-skinned people over 50 years of age.

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STEP 1: Use sunscreen when you go out, paying particular attention to your face and hands. Age spots are caused by a lifetime of exposure to the sun, so the sooner you start wearing sunblock, the less likely it is that you'll get them. STEP 2: Make sure you choose a sunscreen that blocks UVA and UVB rays and has an SPF of at least 15. STEP 3: Wear a long-sleeved shirt and wide-brimmed hat when you know you'll be in the sun. STEP 4: Try to minimize exposure to sunlight between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m., when sunlight is strongest. STEP 5: Use alpha-hydroxy lotions to keep skin smooth and clear.

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Bleaching agents can help fade the age spots you do have. You can buy them at the drugstore. If symptoms persist or if you have specific medical conditions or concerns, contact a physician. This information is not intended as a substitute for professional medical advice or treatment.

Overall Things You'll Need • • •

Sun Hats Sunscreen Alpha-hydroxy lotions

How to Avoid Pimples Pimples can't be prevented without a routine skin care regimen.

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STEP 1: Wash face 2-3 times daily. STEP 2: Use a gentle, water-soluble cleanser and tepid water. STEP 3: Apply a medicated cream, such as benzoyl peroxide, to potential problem areas. STEP 4: Use non-comedogenic moisturizers and makeup. STEP 5: Avoid overmoisturizing the skin. Use the lightest-weight moisturizer necessary. STEP 6: Use a mud mask once a week to clean out pores. STEP 7: Try a medicated refining mask that cleanses and corrects problem skin. STEP 8: Wash makeup brushes and sponges frequently to minimize dirt and bacteria.

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Athletic activities and exposure to greasy environments, such as fast-food establishments, contribute to acne. Drink plenty of water to flush out impurities. Keep hands and hair away from face. Using too many medicated products may dry out skin.

Overall Things You'll Need • •

Cleansers Distilled Water

How to Buy Moisturizers and Antiwrinkle Creams Most basic moisturizers--both drugstore and high-end brands-- contain the same key ingredients (water, propylene glycol, lanolin) to soften your skin and help with surface dryness. Wrinkles? That's another story. Here's the rub.

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STEP 1: Choose moisturizers, makeup base and other daily-use beauty products with built-in sun protection factor (SPF) 30. Sunscreen really can prevent new wrinkles from forming. Look for at least one of these active ingredients: titanium dioxide, zinc oxide or avobenzone (aka Parsol 1789). These protect you from harmful UVA and UVB rays. STEP 2: Mind your skin's moisture needs. Dry skin drinks up rich moisturizers, while oily or acne-prone skin does better with noncomedogenic or nonacnegenic products. (These are preferred over "oil-free" products, which often include poreclogging oil imitators.) STEP 3: Study the active ingredients, which are listed on labels in order of the amount contained. If soothing aloe vera or vitamin C is 15th on the list, you're not getting much of it STEP 4: Be skeptical of products that claim to augment your own natural collagen or elastin, whose job it is to keep skin plumped up and youthful. The molecules in these products are too big to actually penetrate the skin. STEP 5: Ask your doctor about tretinoins, one of the few active ingredients shown to truly reverse sun damage, reduce fine lines and soften wrinkles. These medications, which include Retin-A and Renova, are available by prescription only. Because of their ability to actually change your skin's structure, they are designated as drugs rather than cosmetics. STEP 6: Sample other weaker, nonprescription vitamin A relatives like alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs). You need at least 8 percent AHA for any visible results, though, which is just as likely to be present in a cheap drugstore product as in an expensive brand. STEP 7: Experiment with antioxidant ingredients like coenzyme Q10, vitamin C and alpha lipoic acid. Some dermatologists make great claims for them (with promising research), while others are skeptical about visible results given the low concentrations used.

What To Look For • • •

SPF 30 sunscreen Active ingredients Right ingredients for your skin type

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Prescription treatments AHAs and BHAs Antioxidant ingredients

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Reduce long-term risks of skin aging, skin cancer, and other harmful effects of the sun by limiting sun exposure, wearing protective clothing, and using sunscreen. While it's true that genes play a large part in how you age, with care, your skin will appear younger--for free. Never use tretinoin or AHA products on the sensitive skin around your eyes. Because these are mildly exfoliating, they can cause redness or flaking en route to revealing fresh new skin. They also make your skin more photosensitive. Hypoallergenic products should be free of fragrance and other common irritants like preservatives, but can still aggravate your skin.

How to Care for a Boil A boil is a skin infection, most often caused by the microbe Staphylococcus aureus. The bacteria gets into a hair follicle, forms pus, and the result is a boil when the pus moves upwards and reaches the surface of the skin.

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STEP 1: Avoid squeezing a boil, as this may spread the infection. STEP 2: Allow the boil to come to a head and open on its own. Applying a warm compress two or three times a day will speed up this process. STEP 3: Keep the area very clean, especially after the boil has begun to drain. STEP 4: Apply a saline solution once the boil has opened. Mix 1 tsp. table salt with 1 c. hot water. Wet a washcloth in the solution and apply it to the boil. This can help dry it out and reduce the amount of pus.

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Most boils heal on their own. You should see a doctor if the area becomes increasingly red and inflamed, or if it does not go away within two weeks.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • •

First Aid Kits Washcloths Antibacterial Ointments Saline Solutions

How to Fight Oily Skin Heredity, diet, hormones, weather and habits such as smoking all play a role in the condition of your skin.

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STEP 1: Wash your face two or three times a day with a mild cleanser that does not include perfumes or additives. Keep your skin very clean, but do not scrub too hard. STEP 2: Use an oil-free moisturizer and cosmetics. STEP 3: Use a clay-based face mask two or three times a week. STEP 4: Choose products containing alpha-hydroxy acids, which remove dead cells and give skin a smoother appearance. STEP 5: Mash up a small amount of papaya for your own fruit acid mask. Smear it on your skin, leave it on for 5 to 10 minutes, then rinse. STEP 6: Steam your skin several times a week. Add chamomile, lavender oil or dried herbs such as rosemary, parsley or thyme to the water. STEP 7: Keep your skin hydrated by drinking at least eight glasses of water a day. STEP 8: Reduce fats and oils in your diet. Increase your intake of fresh vegetables, fruits and whole grains. STEP 9: Watch your sun exposure. Although the sun may seem to dry your skin, too much heat actually stimulates the production of more oil. STEP 10: Supplement your diet with B-complex vitamins, vitamin A, vitamin C, zinc and vitamin E. You can also take a high-potency multivitamin.

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Make your own facial scrub by mixing 2 tbsp. almond meal with 1 tbsp. ground lemon rind and 1 tbsp. powdered milk. Make your own clay mask by mixing green clay powder with water or honey and applying it to your face. Leave it on for 15 minutes and then rinse. Humidity and heat will increase oil production.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • • • •

Papayas Dried Herbs Lavender Oils Oil-free Moisturizers Alpha-hydroxy lotions Multivitamins Oil-free Cosmetics

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Clay-based Face Masks Chamomiles Mild Facial Cleansers Sunscreen

How to Give Yourself a Facial Finally, something that feels great that's also good for you. A soothing facial will improve the appearance of your skin and relax you at the same time.

Instructions •

STEP 1: Tie back your hair and keep it off your face.

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STEP 2: Place a warm, wet towel on your face and keep it there for a few minutes. •

STEP 3: Remove the towel and wash your face using cleanser that's suitable to your skin type.

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STEP 4: Fill a pot with water. Add herbs suitable to your skin type or a few drops of essential oil. For example, chamomile, fennel seeds and roses are good for dry skin, and rosemary, lavender and peppermint can help oily skin. •

STEP 5: Put the pot on the stove and bring the water to a boil. Remove the pot from the heat.

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STEP 6: Drape the towel over your head and hold your face over the steam. Steam for 5 or 10 minutes, or whatever is comfortable.

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STEP 7: Put on a face mask. If using a clay-based mask, avoid the eye area.

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STEP 8: Lie down and relax as the mask dries. Cucumber slices over the eyes are cooling. • •

STEP 9: Rinse your face, making sure to get all traces of the mask off. STEP 10: Conclude your facial with toner, then moisturizer.

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You can purchase a mask or make your own at home. Honey and egg whites are very good and effective standbys. For dry skin, try using a mashed banana or avocado. The herbs that work for you will depend on your specific skin qualities. Experiment with a variety of herbs until you find the ones that work best. Avoid toners containing alcohol. They can be drying, even for oily skin.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • • • • •

Herbs Hair Accessories Facial Mud Mask Oil-free Moisturizers Hot Water Towels Toners Exfoliating Cleanser

How to Reduce Stretch Marks Stretch marks are an inevitable result of pregnancy or rapid weight loss for some men and women. However, the following steps may help you reduce their appearance.

Instructions • •

STEP 1: Brush your skin with a loofah or skin brush when you shower to stimulate circulation. STEP 2: Massage cocoa butter into the stretch marks.

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STEP 3: Use vitamin E oil on your stretch marks. Massage it into your skin after a shower. STEP 4: Talk to your doctor about using tretinoin cream on stretch marks. It is available by prescription only. STEP 5: Eat foods high in vitamins A, E and C (see Related eHows), or take supplements in addition to your diet. However, pregnant women should avoid taking more than 25,000 IU of vitamin A. STEP 6: Add foods or supplements to your diet that are high in zinc (see Related eHow), which is good for the skin, and silica (beets, brown rice, bell peppers, soybeans, leafy green vegetables and whole grains), which helps form collagen, the supporting fibers in the skin. STEP 7: Eat foods that contain essential fatty acids, which help make cell walls. Essential fatty acids can be found in many vegetables, vegetable oils and fish oils.

Tips & Warnings •

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Lasers have shown some promise in reducing the appearance of stretch marks. They seem to work best on stretch marks that are still fairly new and are red or purple in color. Check your local supermarket or drugstore for commercial creams such as Belly Butter, a moisturizing and replenishing maternity body cream. Always consult your doctor or a medical professional before making changes to your diet.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • • • • • •

Vitamin E Oil Loofahs Body Lotion Cocoa Butter Vitamin C Moisturizers Vitamin A Zinc Vitamin E

How to Treat Pimples Article Badges: Although many people suffer from this condition only during the teenage years, pimples can occur throughout adulthood, depending on your hormonal activity, heredity and hygiene.

Instructions •

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STEP 1: Resist the urge to attack when these plugged sebaceous glands pop up. In other words, don't pop your pimples'this can cause infections and even scarring. STEP 2: Keep in mind that a combination of hormonal activity, a buildup of bacteria and the shedding of dead skin cells causes pimples. Do what you can to prevent a breakout by establishing a skin-care routine appropriate for your skin type. STEP 3: Have patience. It could take up to one month for a blemish to disappear completely. The less you poke at it, the better. STEP 4: Buy an antibacterial, oil-free concealer that can blend the redness of the pimple into your own skin color. Green shades tend to offset redness the best. (This might not be an option for those who don't wear makeup.) STEP 5: Try a facial mud mask. This may shrink a pimple. STEP 6: Realize that despite the happy teens in the commercials, 'zit zapping' solutions'medications you apply directly to pimples'don't do much more than dry out the top layer of skin covering the pimples. These medications don't provide a long-term cure. STEP 7: If you are going to break the rules by 'extracting the blemish''aesthetician-speak for popping your pimple'wash your hands, then lightly squeeze the top of the pimple with a tissue or cotton swab. Clean the area thoroughly when you're done. If nothing happens, leave the pimple alone until it's ready to pop. STEP 8: Apply a benzol peroxide acne medication to the pimple and avoid applying medication to the surrounding area.

Tips & Warnings •

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If you're desperate (you get an unsightly blemish two days before your wedding, perhaps), consult a dermatologist about receiving a shot of cortisone to eliminate a pimple. Pimples can indicate the presence of acne, a chronic skin disease. If you have recurring pimples, talk to a dermatologist about acne medication. Your dermatologist may prescribe antibiotics, certain brands of birth control pills, or even Accutane for severe acne. Consider carefully before using Accutane. Although this is the only truly longterm solution for severe acne, it can have serious side effects and is known to cause serious birth defects when taken during pregnancy. Sexually active women who use Accutane should use two forms of birth control.

Overall Things You'll Need • •

Clay-based Face Masks Facial Tissues

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Antibacterial Soaps Concealer Cotton Swabs

How to Zap an Acne Breakout Article Badges: If you awake on the morning of a special day to discover a red pimple on the tip of your nose, all hope is not lost. Here's how to remedy an unwelcome pimple.

Instructions •

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STEP 1: Tempting as it is, don't try to pop the pimple by squeezing, pinching, or picking at it. This will just inflame the pore and spread the oils that caused the pimple. STEP 2: Apply ice to the area for 2 minutes every half hour. This will help shrink the pimple and possibly reduce it to an invisible size. STEP 3: Apply a flesh-tinted acne medication that contains benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid or sulfur. Since these medications dry out the skin, apply only to the pimple area. STEP 4: If you'd like, use an oil-free powder to cover up the medicated area and reduce any shine. STEP 5: If the pimple is already coming to a head and it's too late to use the ice treatment, use heat. Wash the area with soap and water. Apply a hot, damp compress to the pimple for 60 seconds. This increases circulation and helps bring the pimple to a head. Remove the compress and apply gentle pressure to drain the pimple; do not squeeze. If the pimple does not drain, reapply heat and try again. Do not force the pimple to drain. Wash the area with soap and water after pimple drains.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • •

Acne Medication Hot Compress Ice Soap Oil-free Powder

Overall Tips & Warnings •

If you wear makeup and facial moisturizers, choose products that are noncomedogenic (won't cause pore buildup) and nonacnegenic (won't cause acne). Remove all makeup nightly.

How to Eliminate Razor Burn Avoiding razor burn to begin with may be easier than dealing with a painful skin rash once it's started. The old saying, "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure," is right on the money when it comes to razor burn.

Instructions •

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STEP 1: Purchase good razors. Gender-specific razors are designed with handles and blades at the precise angles to allow for optimal shaving of faces (for men) and legs (for women). STEP 2: Choose a razor that is affordable enough that you can discard it after a few uses. Shaving with a fresh, sharp blade requires less pressure, and that means less razor burn. Consider a single-blade razor; double-blade razors shave closer, but also exfoliate more skin cells and can cause more irritation. STEP 3: Shave at the end of or after your shower or bath, after your skin is softened from the heat and steam. This will allow for a closer shave with less abrasion. STEP 4: Lather on a shaving cream or gel designed for sensitive skin before shaving. Shaving gels are thicker and offer more protection from razor burn than shaving creams. If you use soap, a soft bar soap offers more protection from razor burn than liquid soap, shower gel or hard-milled bar soap. Avoid using a deodorant soap for shaving if you are prone to razor burn; it dries skin. STEP 5: Take your time. STEP 6: Allow the razor's weight to take off the hair. Avoid pushing into the skin. STEP 7: Go over an area just once. Excessive pressure and multiple swipes remove layers of skin, which leads to razor burn. STEP 8: Shave no more than once a day. If necessary, do touch ups with an electric razor. Use minimal pressure to avoid irritating your skin. STEP 9: Splash shaved skin with cold water after shaving is complete. Be sure to rinse off all shaving cream, gel or soap, which can cause irritation. STEP 10: Apply lotion 30 minutes after finishing your shower, if at all. This will allow for your pores to close, also minimizing irritation. STEP 11: Treat existing razor burn with pure aloe vera gel. Aloe vera has analgesic qualities that reduce swelling, soothe skin irritation and form a barrier that will protect your skin from infection. It also promotes healing.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • •

hot shower or bath shaving gel or cream or bar soap aloe vera gel a sharp razor

How to Get Rid of a Hickey Article Badges: Accidents happen, and a passionate kiss can lead to that telltale mark of love: a hickey. Unfortunately, there isn't much you can do about this affliction. A hickey is nothing more than a bruise, and like all bruises it just needs some time to heal. You can, however, try a few tricks to make it fade faster.

Instructions

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STEP 1: Apply a cold compress immediately (although that may interrupt a moment of passion). Keep the compress on 20 minutes, off 20 minutes. The cold will constrict blood vessels and help keep the bruise from spreading.

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STEP 2: If the hickey lasts for more than 48 hours, apply wet, warm compresses to decrease any pain or swelling. Once the blood has stopped spreading around the bruise, apply heat, which dilates blood vessels and thus speeds up the sweeping away of blood cells. In most cases, moist heat is more effective than dry heat, because the moisture helps wick the heat beneath the skin.

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STEP 3: Apply concealer in a shade that's lighter than your natural skin color and discreet enough to fend off unwanted attention. •

STEP 4: Remember that if all else fails, nothing beats a turtleneck sweater - or a scarf in summer.

Tips & Warnings •

To avoid getting a hickey in the first place, kiss a little more gently.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • •

Warm Compresses Scarves Aloe Vera Gel Concealer Concealer Brushes

How to Tan Without Burning Most health officials agree that tanning in any form is not good for your skin. But for those who must tan, there are a couple of options to choose from.

Sunning Instructions • • •

STEP 1: Start with 10 or 15 minutes of exposure to the sun or a tanning lamp, and gradually increase the time as your body becomes more tanned. STEP 2: Start with a sunscreen with an SPF factor of under 15, but no less than 8. STEP 3: Keep skin moisturized with after-sun lotion - preferably with aloe - to make your tan last.

Tips & Warnings • • • • •

Some medications (especially acne medications) lower your resistance to sun. If you are light-skinned, you are more prone to sunburn than people with darker complexions. Avoid the sun during the peak hours of 10:00 to 2:00, when its rays are the most harmful. Always protect your eyes while tanning in the sun or in a tanning bed. Tanning booths and beds subject your body to the same general kinds of rays as the sun emits. Be aware that you can get sunburned in a tanning bed.

Tanning Lotion Instructions • • •

STEP 1: Buy cream or spray-on tanning lotion. STEP 2: Test the product on a small area of skin for adverse reactions. STEP 3: Scrub away dead skin with a loofah pad before applying lotion.

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STEP 4: Rub tanning lotion into skin thoroughly. (You may want to wear rubber gloves to do this.) Pay special attention to the backs of your knees, elbows, ankles and tan lines. STEP 5: Wipe away excess lotion to avoid an uneven or creased tan. STEP 6: Wash hands (or gloves) thoroughly with soap and water after applying lotion. STEP 7: Wait 15 minutes before getting skin wet.

Tips & Warnings • • • •

Start with only a light coating and then layer to obtain the color you want. Most tanning lotions do not contain sunscreen. You can also use tanning pills, which contain color additives. Cheap tanning lotions will turn your skin orange.

How to Avoid Getting Freckles Freckles are caused by the sun and develop most often on fair skin.

Instructions • • • • • •

STEP 1: Use sunscreen with complete UV block whenever you go out. STEP 2: Try sunscreens that contain parasol. STEP 3: Reapply sunscreen frequently throughout the day. STEP 4: Minimize exposure to the sun between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m., when the sun's rays are strongest. STEP 5: Wear a wide-brimmed hat and sunglasses if you're going to be in the sun for an extended time. STEP 6: Avoid sunbathing and tanning booths.

Tips & Warnings •

Freckles usually fade in the winter, when the sun's rays are weakest.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • •

Bleach/lightening Treatments Sunscreen Wide-brimmed Hats Sunglasses

How to Camouflage a Scar

A scar disfigures the skin, and often the psyche of the individual obligated to live with it. But advances in personal care now make it fairly easy to conceal the severity of your scar.

Instructions • • • • • •

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STEP 1: Consider your options. The best include an opaque waterproof concealing cream or skin adhesives. STEP 2: Match the color of your skin as closely as possible. Consider blending two colored creams to get the best color match possible. STEP 3: Start with clean, dry skin. STEP 4: Apply cream by filling in any recessions. Blend cream to outer edges of the scar, going just beyond to the edges of your skin. STEP 5: Set with powder. Place a small amount of loose or pressed powder on a cotton ball or cosmetic puff and press gently over the area. STEP 6: Alternatively, cut strips of concealing tape that match the shape of your scar. Made of a very thin and flesh-like material, the tape is designed to blend right into the surface of your skin. STEP 7: Keep hair and clothing away from camouflaged scar so they won't rub against the concealer.

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Consult representatives of skin-care companies for more information about their products and if they would be right for you. Free samples are usually an option, and complimentary in-store applications are offered so you can see firsthand what the product can do. Regular applications of vitamin E have shown excellent results in diminishing scars. Always protect skin from sunlight with an SPF of 15 or higher. Sunlight on scars and surrounding skin can sometimes cause marked color differences between the two areas.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • • •

Foundation Special Opaque Concealer For Heavy Coverage Facial Cleansers Towels Mirrors Cotton Swabs

How to Camouflage a Tattoo

Found an occasion when you just don't feel like sharing your tattoo with the rest of the world? Whether you're headed down the aisle in a skin-baring dress or heading off to a company barbecue in shorts and sandals, you can camouflage your tattoo simply and convincingly.

Instructions •

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STEP 1: Purchase a thick concealer cream that offers very heavy opaque coverage. Offering more coverage than your basic concealer and foundation, these specialized creams create the most natural and flawless camouflage. STEP 2: Choose at least two colors. One shade should be up to two shades lighter than your skin tone and will neutralize the darkness of your work of art. The second color should match your skin tone. STEP 3: Clean and dry the tattooed skin. STEP 4: Begin with the lightest color. Use a thin paintbrush, concealer brush or a cotton swab to paint over the tattoo. Ensure that all of the ink has been covered with the product, but avoid the surrounding skin. STEP 5: Apply the second shade in the same manner but extend cream just over the outside edges of the tattoo. Blend edges very gently into your skin. STEP 6: Set with a loose or pressed powder. Place a small amount of powder on to a cosmetic puff or cotton ball and press directly into the area.

Tips & Warnings • •

Get the assistance of a trusted confidant if you cannot reach your tattoo. Keep clothing and hair away from camouflaged area to avoid rubbing off the concealing makeup.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • • • •

Washcloths Exfoliating Sponges Special Concealer Offering Opaque Coverage Thin Paintbrushes Cotton Swabs Mirrors Exfoliating Cleanser

How to Care for Aging Skin You can't stop the birthdays, but you can fight the wrinkles and age spots that accompany them. Follow these steps to keep your skin looking as young as you feel.

Instructions •

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STEP 1: Wear sunscreen daily to protect your skin from wrinkles and age spots, paying particular attention to your face and hands. Use a foundation or face lotion that blocks UVA and UVB rays and has an SPF of at least 15. STEP 2: Limit your sun exposure, and wear a long-sleeved shirt and widebrimmed hat when you know you'll be in the sun. STEP 3: Pay attention to the ingredients in your skin care products and avoid any irritating ingredients. Individual reactions to ingredients vary dramatically, but potential irritants include x Menthol, lemongrass, lime, lavender paba, fragrances & botanicals, oils, extracts, STEP 4: Moisturize dry skin in cold weather and in dry heat. Dry skin does not cause additional wrinkles, but wrinkles look worse when compounded by dry skin. STEP 5: Use an alpha-hydroxy cleanser and lotion on areas of the skin that have age spots. It helps to fade them. STEP 6: Apply a fade cream like Esoterica or Ambi to the skin at night. They help to restore skin to a uniform color. The prescription medication Retin-A works like a fade cream on age spots. STEP 7: Talk to a dermatologist or cosmetic surgeon about wrinkles and age spots if you want to investigate other options for looking younger.

Tips & Warnings • •

Use a humidifier in your room during the winter if you have dry skin. Wearing face lotion and anti-aging cream at the same time may cause break-outs.

Overall Things You'll Need • • •

Humidifiers Sunscreen Suntan Lotion Moisturizers

How to Exfoliate Your Body If you want your skin to look healthy and radiant, exfoliate regularly. By removing the top layer of dead epidermis cells, you will make your skin appear smoother and less wrinkled.

Instructions

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STEP 1: Brush dry skin before getting into the shower. You can use either a loofah, exfoliating gloves or a body exfoliating brush. Start at the soles of the feet and work your way up. STEP 2: Get into the bath or shower and wet your entire body. STEP 3: Apply exfoliating cleanser to your loofah or exfoliating brush or gloves. STEP 4: Scrub your body with it, using gentle, circular motions. STEP 5: Opt for grainy types of cleansers to clean the skin, rather than soap. Choose exfoliating cleansers that contain ingredients such as oatmeal, ground almonds or even sea salt. The grainy texture exfoliates the skin. STEP 6: Make your own exfoliating cleanser, if you prefer. Mix sea salt, olive oil and lemon juice together, or mix ground almonds and powdered milk. The combinations are endless. STEP 7: Use a washcloth for mild exfoliation. STEP 8: Rub rough spots, such as heels, with a pumice stone or stick. STEP 9: Apply lotion containing alpha or beta hydroxy acids after you exfoliate. This will continue the exfoliating process because the acids further abrade and remove dead skin cells. STEP 10: Be sure to use body moisturizers at least once every day. Regular exfoliating is extremely drying to the skin and will do more harm than good unless the skin is rehydrated liberally with lotions.

Tips & Warnings • •

Some products are more abrasive than others. If your skin is very sensitive, use as little friction as possible and stick to the least abrasive products. Never overexfoliate with excessively abrasive exfoliating cleansers, or you run the risk of bursting the delicate blood vessels under the skin. If the vessels burst, your skin may appear permanently flushed. This condition, known as telangiectasia, must then be treated using laser surgery.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • •

Oil-free Moisturizers Body Liquid Cleansers Bath Towels Body Lotion Exfoliating Products

How to Protect Against Sunburn Almost all health officials agree that there is no such thing as a healthy tan, but a sunburn is particularly damaging to your skin and may result in pain, swelling, blistering and long-term skin damage.

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STEP 1: Avoid exposure to the sun between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m., when sunlight is most direct and intense. STEP 2: Use a sunscreen that protects against both UVA and UVB rays. The SPF (sun protection factor) should be at least 15. If you will be going in the water, choose a waterproof brand. STEP 3: Apply sunscreen liberally to all exposed parts of the body, including the lips, ears, nose, neck, hands, feet, eyelids and scalp, at least 15 minutes before going outside. STEP 4: Reapply sunscreen every 2 to 3 hours - more frequently if you'll be hopping in and out of the water. STEP 5: Put on a hat with at least a 3-inch brim all around. STEP 6: Wear sunglasses that block 100 percent of UVA and UBA rays.

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If you spend time in the sun, you should check your skin regularly for signs of cancer or precancerous conditions. Call your doctor if you find changes in birthmarks or moles, or if you have a sore that does not heal. Sunscreen should not be used on babies younger than six months. Cover babies with hats, clothing, umbrellas or other shade. Some people are sensitive to PABA, an ingredient often used in sunscreens. PABA-free varieties are available.

Overall Things You'll Need •

Sunscreen Hats

The Basics How to Clean Makeup Brushes Difficulty: Easy Makeup brushes can harbor lots of dirt and bacteria, but frequent washing of your makeup brushes can keep them - and your face - clean and healthy.

Instructions • • • • •

STEP 1: Run the bristles of the makeup brush under warm running water. STEP 2: Apply a small amount of shampoo to bristles and work into a light lather. STEP 3: Rinse bristles thoroughly under running water. You will notice that the water leaving the brush is tinted from old makeup. STEP 4: Continue rinsing until no color leaves the brush. STEP 5: Allow it to air-dry.

Tips & Warnings •

Many professional makeup artists use a specialized cleaning solution for their brushes. These solutions are available at most beauty supply stores.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • •

Blush Brush Eye Shadow Brushes Towels Makeup Brushes Shampoos For Normal Hair

How to Remove Makeup Thoroughly Difficulty: Easy Though you may be tempted to hop directly into bed after a long night, discipline yourself to remove makeup first so your skin can breathe and regenerate during the night.

Instructions •

STEP 1: Pull your hair away from your face with a headband, or secure it in a clip or ponytail holder.

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STEP 2: Begin with your eye makeup. Moisten a cotton ball with eye makeup remover and remove all traces of makeup by gently wiping each eye until the makeup dissolves. •

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STEP 3: Select a cleanser suitable for your skin type that has also been tested for the removal or breakdown of makeup. Some soaps and cleansers don't thoroughly cleanse your skin of makeup. Check the packaging to see if the product is designed for makeup removal, or ask a makeup salesperson for advice. STEP 4: Splash your face with lukewarm water, the best temperature for lathering up and facilitating the breakdown of makeup. STEP 5: Place a dollop of cleanser in the center of one hand and rub your hands together to generate lather. Add water if necessary.

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STEP 6: Apply the lather to your entire face and rub gently, concentrating on the places where you applied makeup. • •

STEP 7: Spend about a minute retracing your path to ensure that you've cleaned all areas. STEP 8: Rinse your face multiple times to ensure the removal of the cleanser and makeup residue.

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STEP 9: Pat your face dry with a towel.

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If your preferred cleanser does not break down makeup, wash your face first with a makeup remover that suits your skin type. Avoid washing off eye makeup with cleanser, as it's too harsh and drying for this delicate area.

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Do not use eye makeup remover to remove face makeup, particularly if you have oily skin. This may cause breakouts.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • • • • • • •

Exfoliating Products Ponytail Holders Cotton Swabs Moisturizers Towels Mirrors Toners Eye Makeup Removers Makeup Remover Exfoliating Cleanser

How to Select Face Makeup That Complements African-American Coloring Difficulty: Moderately Easy Since skin tones vary greatly among women of African descent, finding the right face makeup can be tricky. The wrong makeup can lead to an ashen or flat complexion, but with a little insight and a lot of experimentation, you can minimize the guesswork and put your best face forward.

Instructions •

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STEP 1: Look beyond your skin's color and examine its undertones. Rich ebony complexions usually have cool, almost blue undertones, while brown and caramel complexions have warm golden undertones. STEP 2: Choose from shades that appear to be in your color range and may complement your complexion's undertones. Remember that foundation will look different on your skin than it does in a bottle or on a thumbnail palette. STEP 3: Consider lines that specialize in black beauty products for the widest color selection. Always try foundation on your jawline or the inside of your wrist to get the best idea of a color match. STEP 4: Set your makeup with a loose translucent powder. If you're blessed with a flawless even complexion, skip the foundation and opt for a tinted moisturizer or tinted powder over bare skin. STEP 5: Contour your cheekbones with a sweep of blush. Plums, currants and mauves will flatter a medium to dark complexion. Caramel, honey and apricot will complement a medium to light complexion.

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Bronzer is an alternative to blush for those with a warmer complexion. Dust a light coating over the face, contouring at temples and cheekbones. When faced with uneven skin pigment, consult a beauty expert for suggestions on a foundation that will even out your skin tone. You may be a candidate for two colors, that when spread over the right areas, will render the uniform look you desire. Think about your skin type when selecting a face makeup. Oilier skins do better with water-based liquid foundations and cream blush, while drier skins benefit from cream formulas. Testers in drug stores may not be sterile. Buy with a store guarantee: if the color is not right, then the item is returnable.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • • • • • • • • •

Foundation Lip Liners Dark Or Black Eye Shadows Mascara Waterproof Mascaras Blush Brush Face Powder Eye Shadow Brushes Blush Makeup Brushes Lipstick Lip Gloss

How to Touch Up Your Makeup Difficulty: Easy Keep your complexion flawless throughout the day with a midday touch-up. Slip into the ladies room - makeup bag in hand - and take five to come alive.

Instructions • •

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STEP 1: Keep it simple. You shouldn't ever need to reapply your entire face at any point throughout the day. STEP 2: Use a clean cotton swab to remove any flakes of eye makeup, remedy running eyeliner or bleeding lipstick, and blend away any creased concealer or foundation. STEP 3: Tissue off any remaining lip color.

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STEP 4: Absorb excess oil by pressing a blotting paper into shiny areas. Repowder face to even out complexion. STEP 5: Sweep a hint of blush up your cheekbones. Start at your cheek's apple and move toward your hairline in a few quick strokes. STEP 6: Apply a small amount of lip balm for moisture. Line lips and then fill in with matching lip color.

Tips & Warnings • • •

If eye makeup has melted or faded by lunchtime, consider switching to a longerlasting formula. Remember that eyeliner has more staying power than a shadow. Substitute expensive blotting papers with the endpapers hair stylists use for perms. They're available at most beauty supply stores. Apply additional foundation or concealer only if absolutely necessary - to conceal a big red blemish or hide dark circles, for example. Otherwise, your makeup may appear caked or patchy.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • • • • • • • •

Foundation Lip Liners Facial Tissues Blush Cotton Swabs Makeup Brushes Eyeliners Concealer Lip Balm Eye Shadow Liquid Eyeliners

How to Apply Makeup for Photographs Difficulty: Moderate Article Badges: To look your best in photographs, relax, smile and follow some simple makeup tips.

Instructions •

STEP 1: Make sure your foundation is yellow-toned (this applies for all ethnic backgrounds).

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STEP 2: If you are African-American, it's a good idea to have light, medium and dark shades of foundation to allow for different gradations of color on different parts of your face. STEP 3: Use the right color blush so as not to look washed out. Layer natural color first, and make it "pop" with a brighter color on top. STEP 4: Define your eyes with shadow, but avoid dark colors on the lid - they make the eyes recede. Add mascara, but don't overdo it. STEP 5: Choose deeper or brighter colors for strong lighting. Soft lighting, or daylight, requires less intense colors. STEP 6: Apply makeup that works with your style. Don't put on a lot of it for more effect, but instead use more color and a bit more definition. STEP 7: Avoid dark liner, extremely glossy lips, shimmery or bright shadows, and foundation and powder that's too pale. STEP 8: Use good definition - e.g., careful lining of the lips and eyes - for blackand-white photographs.

Tips & Warnings • • • •

Snap away in summer. This is a great time to be photographed for holiday cards, since people usually look healthy and rested. Choose a photo that looks like yourself. Try to relax when being photographed. Tilt your head and move your face for a variety of shots. Lift your chin when being photographed to lessen dark circles and keep the nose from looking big.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Foundation Mascara Makeup Kits Blush Brush Face Powder Eye Shadow Brushes Blush Makeup Brushes Lipstick Mirrors Lip Liners Eye Shadow Liquid Eyeliners

How to Apply Makeup in 10 Easy Steps

Difficulty: Moderate Article Badges: Try to follow the same basic routine whenever you apply your makeup. That way, the steps to looking your best will be more organized and efficient.

Instructions •

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STEP 1: Apply a concealer that is one shade lighter than your foundation. Dot it on over any blemishes or under-eye circles and blend with your fingertips or a makeup sponge. If your concealer tends to cake, apply eye cream first. STEP 2: Choose foundation that matches your skin tone exactly. Apply it in dots over the central part of your face, then blend it out with a makeup sponge or your fingertips until it covers your entire face (see Related eHows). STEP 3: Use a loose or pressed powder to keep foundation and concealer on longer. Use pressed powder to touch up when you're away from home. STEP 4: Do your eyebrows next. Use powdered eyebrow shadow on brows instead of pencil, which can often look unnatural. Apply it with a hard, slanted brush. STEP 5: Choose three colors of eye shadow: light, medium and dark. Use the dark only to line your upper eyelid, in a fairly thin line along the upper lashes. Use the medium shade for the crease and the lightest shade for the area under the eyebrow. There are many variations on eye shadow application techniques (see Related eHows). STEP 6: Apply eyeliner. Use a cake eyeliner with a damp, thin liner brush, or an eyeliner pencil, and line the lower lid below the lashes. Line only the outer twothirds of the lower lid, or all the way across if you're trying to achieve a darker look. Line all the way across the upper lid (just above the lash line and as close to the lashes as possible), or start the line where your lashes begin. STEP 7: Apply mascara to upper and lower lashes, in two thin coats to avoid clumpiness. Choose brown mascara if your coloring is fair; black or brown-black works well for darker coloring. Or try a colored mascara such as navy or plum for fun, but don't go too bright if you want to be taken seriously. STEP 8: Smile to find the apples of your cheeks, and apply blush to the apples or below, whichever you prefer. If you have to blend in blush, it's too bright. STEP 9: Choose a lipstick color that's suited to your skin tone and that's perfect for your day look. You can mix colors and textures to suit your moods and your outfits (see Related eHows). STEP 10: Line lips after applying lipstick, not before. That way you won't end up with a dark circle of lip liner after your lipstick has worn off. Avoid combining very dark lip liner and pale lipstick.

Tips & Warnings

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Follow the steps in the order given, and remember to clean and moisturize your face before applying makeup. Choose brighter or darker tones for a stronger look. Clean makeup brushes by gently washing them in warm water and mild gel shampoo. Air-dry them overnight. Don't skimp on makeup tools. High-quality tools make application easier and faster. If you decide to curl your eyelashes, do this just before applying mascara'never after. Insert your eyelashes into the curler, squeeze just once, and hold for a few seconds. Bacteria can grow in older cosmetics, which can lead to infections. Be on the safe side: Toss anything that's seems old, especially mascara, and avoid sharing products with others.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • • • • • • •

Foundation Mascara Waterproof Mascaras Blush Brush Face Powder Eye Shadow Brushes Blush Lipstick Lip Gloss Eye Shadow

How to Design a Hairstyle for Your Natural Hair Difficulty: Moderately Easy Article Badges: You’ve seen the return of the Afros this season, below are the steps to get the look.

Things You'll Need • • • •

Shampoo Leave-in Spray Conditioner Hair Crème Brush & Comb

Instructions • • • • • • • • • •

Overall Tips & Warnings •

You can accessorize with headbands, pins, and scarves.

How to Adapt Makeup for Wedding Day Difficulty: Moderately Easy Your every blush, smile and kiss will be recorded on film, so your bridal makeup needs to be picture perfect. It should cover any imperfections and highlight your features, while appearing subtle and pretty. Venue and event time play key roles; you'll want to adjust your makeup for day or evening and for indoor or outdoor lighting.

Instructions • •

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STEP 1: Flip through bridal magazines and search for pictures that capture your ideal bridal look. Keep these pictures on hand for guidance. STEP 2: Consider having your makeup done professionally. If you decide to do it yourself, have a free professional makeover before the wedding and ask for detailed instructions on how to achieve your desired look. STEP 3: Choose the most lightweight foundation possible while still getting the coverage you need because heavier foundations will look more obvious. STEP 4: Wear waterproof eye makeup so that tears of joy or the heat of summer don't make for streaks or smears.

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STEP 5: Use various shades of shadow to add definition to your eyes, then add a hit of liner for drama. Resist the temptation to go for bold lines, bright colors or glitter, unless that's your usual look. STEP 6: Curl lashes for length and definition but skip the false eyelashes. You don't want to risk having them peel off or rotate throughout the day. STEP 7: Stick to a soft and delicate tone for lipstick, as bold or dark colors might be overpowering. Remember to match the hues in your blush to those in your lipstick. STEP 8: Contour your face with blush or bronzer, even if it's not part of your daily routine. It will give your skin a healthy glow and subtly define your features.

Tips & Warnings •

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Pluck your eyebrows or have them waxed the day before your wedding. If you or a makeup artist play with them the morning of the wedding, they might appear red or blotchy in your pictures. Consider a lipstick that has staying power. All those kisses and sips of Champagne will leave you little time to reapply. Opt for a foundation that contains sunscreen if you plan to have an outdoor wedding.

Overall Things You'll Need • • •

Waterproof Mascaras Makeup Kits Face Powder

How to Do Your Makeup for the Prom Difficulty: Easy Article Badges: With prom just around the corner, you're apt to be twice as chatty with your girlfriends. You'll gab about your dresses, then your hair and of course your makeup. Will it be lipstick or a colored gloss? A pastel shadow or pencil liner? Oh, decisions, decisions'

Instructions •

STEP 1: Use a light foundation to even out your skin tone, hide blemishes and create the appearance of a flawless face. Use a makeup sponge to thoroughly blend the formula into your skin and leave no lines between your jaw, neck and chest.

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STEP 2: Set your face makeup with a loose powder then add a hint of color to highlight your features. Accentuate your cheekbones with a hint of shimmery cream blush or contour the temples, cheeks, forehead and chin with a light dusting of bronzer. STEP 3: Line your upper lids with a delicate stroke of liquid liner that arches at the ends for a touch of glamour. Or dust a glitter powder over your entire eyelid then smudge a little liner at the outer eye edges for a subtle, yet still stunning eye. STEP 4: Curl lashes for maximum volume, or place a few false eyelashes at the outside edge of your upper lash line for maximum glamour. Apply a coat or two of lengthening mascara and you're sure to wow 'em. STEP 5: Brush lips with a cranberry, warm caramel or cocoa colored gloss, then apply a super shiny clear gloss for thatstunning starlet look. Line lips with a pencil, then fill in with a creamy lipstick to give definition and shape to thin lips. STEP 6: Remember the body makeup. Shimmer under the stars by applying glitter powder or gel to bare arms, shoulders and upper chest. Wash hands thoroughly before you get dressed.

Tips & Warnings •

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Get your parents' blessing. Makeup for teens can be a touchy subject, especially for dads, so let them know your plans before the big night to avoid any disagreements. If you plan to get your makeup professionally done, bring your own lipstick and gloss to your appointment. This way you can touch up your lips throughout the evening. Sharing eye makeup with your friends can result in the transfer of bacteria that leads to eye infections like pink eye. Get glamorous, then step into your dress. Otherwise you might accidentally stain your gown with makeup or hair styling products.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • • •

Powder Eyelash curler Foundation Body glitter powder Eyeliner Lipstick

How to Apply Makeup to Achieve a Natural Look Difficulty: Moderate

This system of applying makeup for a natural look is fast and easy when you get the hang of it.

Instructions • • •

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STEP 1: Understand that a 'natural' look is one that uses colors that are right for your skin tone. How much you use, and where, depends on your personal style. STEP 2: Make sure your concealer is yellow in tone since it mutes imperfections without adding color, giving your skin a natural look. STEP 3: Apply foundation that matches your skin tone. The right foundation will seem to disappear on your face. If you are African-American, it's a good idea to have light, medium and dark shades of your foundation to allow for different gradations of color on different parts of your face. STEP 4: Apply eye makeup in earthy tones'beige, brown, gold or plum for shadows and brown and charcoal gray for liner and mascara. Skip liner or shadow entirely if you want to keep makeup light. STEP 5: Choose a blush color that is close to the color of your cheeks after you've exercised.

Tips & Warnings •

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Apply makeup in the order described in "eHow to Apply Makeup in 10 Easy Steps" (see Related eHows), and remember to clean and moisturize your face first. Choose brighter or darker tones for a stronger, more made-up look. Intensify your natural makeup for evening. Instead of brown, for example, go for charcoal around the eyes. 'Pop' blush with a brighter color over your usual one. Make lips brighter, darker or more shimmery. Don't skimp on makeup tools. Better tools make applying makeup easier and faster.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • • • • • • •

Foundation Mascara Blush Brush Face Powder Blush Makeup Brushes Lipstick Eyeliners Lip Gloss Eye Shadow

How to Turn Daytime Makeup Into Nighttime Makeup Difficulty: Easy Dimmed lights and shadowy rooms add allure and mystique to your favorite nighttime haunts. Enhance your daytime makeup to stand out in the relative obscurity.

Instructions •

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STEP 1: Use a clean cotton swab to remove any flakes of eye makeup, remedy running eyeliner or bleeding lipstick, and blend away any creased concealer or foundation. Use facial tissue to rub off any remaining lip color. STEP 2: Absorb any excess oil by pressing a blotting paper onto shiny skin. STEP 3: Check the areas you concealed or applied foundation to. Touch up obvious under-eye circles and blemishes with a very small dab of concealer. Apply additional foundation to your skin where you notice fading or unevenness. STEP 4: Set your makeup with pressed powder. Sweep blush from the apple of your cheek to your hairline. Go slightly darker than your daytime blush so that the contour of your cheek stands out even more. STEP 5: Add drama to end-of-the-day eyes with additional eye shadow and eyeliner. Retrace your shadow, darkening the crease and upper corner of the eyelid. Or line your eyes with a dark line that traces the upper lid, and smudge it for a smoky look. STEP 6: Add a touch of mascara to the tips of your lashes. STEP 7: Consider adding a touch of shimmery powder or glitter to the outside corner of your eyes, cheekbones or décolletage. Use it sparingly for a subtle effect that's sure to catch the attention of an admirer. STEP 8: Apply a small amount of lip balm for moisture. Line your lips and then fill them in with matching lip color. Finish with a gloss for additional glamour.

Tips & Warnings •

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Dramatize your eyes or lips, but not both. Balance more prominent eye makeup with a nude or more neutral lipstick. Match delicate eye makeup with darker, more defined lips. Substitute expensive blotting papers with the end papers hairstylists use for perms. They're available at most beauty supply stores. Remember that your nighttime makeup might look a little bold under bright bathroom or office lighting. Trust that it will suit the dimmer lights of your afterdark destination.

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Tread lightly when applying additional concealer or foundation, especially if you touched up midday. Your makeup may look patchy or caked if you layer on too much.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • • • • • • • •

Foundation Shimmery Powders Facial Tissues Face Powder Blush Cotton Swabs Blush Brush Lip Liners Concealer Lip Balm Eye Shadow

How to Decipher the Ingredients in Your Cosmetics Difficulty: Easy If you ever wonder just what makes a foundation glide on like silk, an eye shadow iridescent or your lipstick ruby red, look no further than the product's packaging. Such disclosure is mandated by many governments, and gives you the opportunity to weed out products whose ingredients may be incompatible with your skin. It may read like a chemistry report, but it can be deciphered.

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STEP 1: Check out the ingredients in your blushes, lipsticks and eye shadows and you're likely to find color names preceded by F, D & C. These letters refer to color batches that were approved by the FDA prior to insertion into the product. STEP 2: Look for products that contain a lake, which inhibit the bleeding or running of color. Ingredients suffixed in parabens are preservatives, which guarantee your product a longer shelf life. STEP 3: Consider that key ingredients in foundation, powder, blush and shadows allow the product to glide smoothly over the skin. Talc, or magnesium silicate, as well as dimethicone and mica promote this action. STEP 4: Remember the most effective sunscreens you may find in your base or powder, include titanium dioxide or zinc oxide. Oil and water are often found in

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foundation, and when mixed and blended well offer good coverage and a clean finish. STEP 5: Keep in mind that many cosmetic companies are adding vitamins and essential oils to makeup preparations and spinning them as treatment makeup. The vitamin C, A or E or acne fighting agents that companies do add to cosmetic preparations are not added in quantities that can significantly effect skin texture.

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Ingredients are listed in order of concentration. Known irritants that are listed last may not be concentrated enough to cause problems. The FDA may approve an ingredient, however this does not mean that it is not potentially harmful or will not promote irritation. For example, compounds that give makeup color, often derived from coal-tar, are proven irritants and may be carcinogenic. Beware of labels that say hypoallergenic, dermatologist tested and natural. Not that such claims are untrue, just remember in spite of these things a product still might contain ingredients that irritate your skin.

Overall Things You'll Need •

labels

How to Make a Makeup Sponge Last Longer Difficulty: Easy The most important factor in extending the life of your makeup sponges is cleanliness.

Instructions • • • •

STEP 1: Store sponges in their own small plastic container in your makeup bag. STEP 2: Wash makeup sponges gently with antibacterial hand soap and water after each use or after several uses. STEP 3: Allow sponges to air dry. STEP 4: Replace sponges when the corners begin looking tattered.

Tips & Warnings •

Some cosmetics companies sell small plastic containers specifically to carry sponges.

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Sponges sold at cosmetics counters in department stores are typically overpriced. Your local drug store will sell replacement sponges in larger quantities for less money.

Overall Things You'll Need • • •

Cosmetic Bags Antibacterial Soaps Sponge Containers

How to Decipher the Ingredients in Your Beauty Creams Difficulty: Easy Our beauty creams are purported to do everything from diminish wrinkles to clear up acne, but all of those polysyllabic ingredients are enough to leave a glamour girl's head spinning. Some are derived from nature and others a chemist's test tube, but what exactly do they do to make us more beautiful? Inquiring minds would like to know'

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STEP 1: Remember that although many countries mandate that cosmetic companies disclose their ingredients, the claims they make regarding results go largely unregulated. Companies include ingredients that have been proven to promote a certain action, but they do not always include them in the amount, or in conjunction with the compounds that render them most effective. STEP 2: Read the labels of zit zapping lotions and you're likely to find ingredients like salicylic acid (or beta hydroxy acid), benzoyl peroxide, tea tree oil, triclosan, sulfur or zinc. The acid promotes cellular exfoliation, which inhibits pore clogging debris, while the other ingredients act to combat bacteria or ease inflammation. STEP 3: Know that vitamin A, and its derivatives, retinol or retinoids, encourage deep cellular turnover and are believed to reveal new, unwrinkled skin. Vitamin C, as well as CO Q-10, are thought to promote collagen and elastin production, thereby giving skin the ability to defy wrinkles. STEP 4: Consider that some acids, including alpha hydroxy (or AHA) and lactic, as well as papaya are included in products to promote exfoliation, or removal the most superficial layers of your skin. Any oil, butter or lipid, as well as glycerin and petrolatum will moisturize your skin. STEP 5: Check labels for titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, oxybenzone, avobenzone or padimate-O (PABA) to confirm that your chosen product has a good sunscreen.

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STEP 6: Keep in mind that many ingredients lend your beauty creams a pleasant texture and long life. Parabens are common preservatives, cetyl and stearyl alcohols are thickening agents, and isopropyl myristate and lanolate give many potions their creamy consistency.

Tips & Warnings • • •

Consult the manufacturer for complete disclosure on a product's ingredients and their intended actions. Ingredients are listed in order of concentration. Ignore any cream that includes its miracle ingredients at the end of the list, as they'll be significantly less effective. All skins are different, and no product offers uniform results. Test products whenever possible, as many modern products have ingredients that may irritate certain skins.

Overall Things You'll Need •

labels

How to Keep Your Summer Makeup Fresh Difficulty: Moderately Easy Article Badges: Sweltering heat and humidity can wreak havoc with your summer makeup. Foundation may seem to melt or liquefy, and no powder stands up to those little beads of sweat that collect around your hairline. A modification of your regimen may be in order, and a few tricks will get you through a midday makeup meltdown.

Instructions •

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STEP 1: Skip the foundation, if possible, and opt for a tinted moisturizer. If foundation is necessary, limit application to the center of the face, steering clear of the hairline. STEP 2: Consider switching to an oil-free formula during the summer months or dilute your everyday foundation with an oil-free moisturizer. This lighter coverage will fare better when temperatures heat up. STEP 3: Dust any coverage with a little loose powder. Use blush sparingly, letting your sun-kissed cheeks grab the attention. STEP 4: Blot any perspiration or oil buildup with non-powdered blotting papers. Or substitute a clean tissue, pressing gently into moist areas.

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STEP 5: Remove under-eye foundation or powder buildup with a clean cotton swab. Resist the temptation to reapply unless you feel it absolutely necessary. STEP 6: Reapply loose powder only. Pressed powder has the tendency to cake and clump when hit with moisture.

Tips & Warnings • • •

Keep lips protected and moisturized. Use a lip balm that has an SPF and consider switching to a moisture-rich lipstick. Battle summer blemishes with a superior nighttime treatment so there's less reason to cover up come morning. Oil-free formulas may make dry skin drier.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • • • • • • • •

Mascara Facial Tissues Face Powder Blush Cotton Swabs Blush Brush Lipstick Lip Liners Oil-free Foundations Lip Balm Eye Shadow

How to Select Face Makeup That Complements Asian Coloring Difficulty: Moderately Easy Asian skin tone varies from porcelain to assorted hues of yellow, so selecting the right foundation can be a challenge. Powder is essential to set makeup and provide a flawless finish; blush may help add contour and dimension to your face.

Instructions •

STEP 1: Head to your local department store to test foundation, even if you don't think you'd like to buy there. If you have porcelain skin you might try a shade with a slightly pink cast; all others should stick to yellow-toned formulas.

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STEP 2: Test foundation on the inside of your wrist, or have a beauty adviser apply it to a makeup-free jawline. You want a color that seems to disappear, while it evens out your complexion and camouflages imperfections. STEP 3: Use concealer to hide dark circles and blemishes. Consider green tones to help neutralize redness and a yellow tone, a few shades lighter than your foundation, under the eye. STEP 4: Choose a powder shade that harmonizes with your skin tone. For most Asian complexions this means a yellow-toned shade, save the very pale beauty, who may do better with a translucent or a pale beige shade with a pink cast. STEP 5: Add contour to your face with a hint of blush. Look for shades in pale bronze, subtle pink or soft apricot.

Tips & Warnings • •

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Remember that foundation will look darker in the bottle than it does on your skin. Choose formulas that work in harmony with your skin type. Drier skins will benefit from a creamier foundation, and oilier skins should stick to a water-based liquid foundation and oil-free powder. Skip foundation if you're blessed with flawless skin - wear a tinted moisturizer instead. Look for shades that blend into your skin, rather than sit on top of it. Dark bronzers may look fake unless your skin sports a sun-kissed glow or selftanner has been applied.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • • • • • • • • •

Lip Liners Mascara Waterproof Mascaras Blushes Blush Brush Face Powder Eye Shadow Brushes Lipstick Eyeliners Lip Gloss Oil-free Foundations Eye Shadow

Liquid Eyeliners

Grooming Hands and Feet Let's face it, personal grooming is the key to success, in business or in your social life. Find out if you have good personal grooming right now with eHow. Need a cleaner, closer shave? How about beautifully manicured hands and nails? You'll find personal grooming advice on topics ranging from radiant skin to avoiding smelly shoes.

How to Remove a Ring That's Stuck on a Finger Difficulty: Easy Article Badges: Maybe that ring's been on your finger for a mighty long time. Or perhaps the hot weather has caused your fingers to swell. Here's how to ease a ring off.

Instructions • • •

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STEP 1: Soak your hand in ice-cold water if it is swollen. Wait 5 to 10 minutes for the swelling to recede. STEP 2: Apply lubricant around the ring and up the length of your finger. Hand lotion, dishwashing liquid or olive oil will do the trick. STEP 3: Twist the ring as you slowly work it up and over the knuckle. You may need to apply some force to get it over the first knuckle. Make sure to twist, not tug. STEP 4: If the ring still won't budge, visit a doctor to have it removed.

Overall Things You'll Need •

Hand lotion, dishwashing liquid or olive oil

Overall Tips & Warnings

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If you're experiencing swelling from an injury, it is important to remove any rings before the swelling worsens, because the rings might cut off the finger's blood supply.

How to Repair a Torn Fingernail Difficulty: Moderately Easy To avoid nail breakage, moisturize your nails and use gloves when you're washing dishes or gardening. Here's how you can fix those unavoidable nail snafus.

Instructions • • •

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STEP 1: Remove any polish from the nail. Start with clean, dry nails. STEP 2: Cut a patch from a tea bag, coffee filter or swatch of silk. The patch should be large enough to cover the tear. STEP 3: Put a drop of fast-bonding glue on a toothpick and apply it to the tear. Use nail glue or a household glue containing cyanoacrylate. If you get any glue on your skin, wipe it off with acetone-based nail-polish remover. STEP 4: Hold the nail in place with the toothpick for 30 seconds. If the tear is small, this alone will fix it--no need for a patch. STEP 5: Dab the glue on the patch, then pick up the patch with tweezers. STEP 6: Use the toothpick or a manicure stick to smooth the patch onto the tear. Act quickly because the glue dries fast. STEP 7: Allow the glue to dry thoroughly for 1 minute. Then smooth out any rough edges with an emery board and a nail buffer. File nails in a square instead of an oval shape to prevent breakage. STEP 8: Apply colored nail polish to camouflage the patch.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • • • • • •

Nail-polish Remover Colored Nail Polish Tweezers Nail Glue Or Fast-bonding Glue Emery Board Tea bag, coffee filter or silk swatch Manicure Stick Nail Buffer Toothpick

How to Treat Ingrown Toenails

Difficulty: Moderate When the skin surrounding your toenail turns red and swollen and starts causing you a lot of discomfort, it is probable that your toenail has grown into your toe. Chronic ingrown toenails require the services of a podiatrist.

Instructions •

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STEP 1: Wipe your instruments off with alcohol or betadine. Be sure to get the undersides of your nail clippers, as that is the cutting surface that will be against your skin. STEP 2: Put 2 capfuls of povidone-iodine (Betadine) solution, into 1/2 gal. warm water. Put your foot in the water and soak for 10 minutes. STEP 3: Dry foot thoroughly and then insert nail clippers under the nail border. STEP 4: Clip out the ingrown toenail at a slight angle. Try not to cut your skin keep the bottom of the clipper as close to the bottom of the nail plate as possible. STEP 5: Grasp the corner and gently pull it out, once the nail is cut. STEP 6: Wipe the area gently with an alcohol or a betadine-soaked gauze pad or cotton swab. STEP 7: Soak your toe for 20 minutes each day in the Betadine solution for three days, or until soreness is gone. After soaking, dry gently and apply an adhesive bandage and some antibiotic cream. STEP 8: Insert a sliver of cotton between the nail and the skin, for a few days. This will keep pressure off the toe. Remove the cotton as soon as the nail begins to grow out and away from the toe. STEP 9: Wear loose shoes or go barefoot as much as possible, while your toenail is healing. Your goal is to eliminate any pressure from pushing against your toe. STEP 10: See your podiatrist for chronic ingrown toenails. He may manipulate and elevate the end of your nail to prevent pressure on soft toe tissue, or correct the problem surgically.

Tips & Warnings • • • • • •

Try not to leave nail fragments, as they'll probably become ingrown again. If there is bleeding, elevate the foot and apply an ice pack for 10 minutes with light pressure. If bleeding is excessive, consult a podiatrist. If you have certain medical conditions, such as diabetes or circulatory problems, consult a physician before self-treating foot problems. If severe swelling, redness, heat and pain persist for two days or if you see a break in the skin and feel feverish, consult a physician. This information is not intended as a substitute for professional medical advice or treatment.

Overall Things You'll Need

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Men's Sandals Toe Separators Cotton Balls And Swabs Nail Buffers Pedicure Kits Cuticle Creams Children's Sandals Adhesive Bandages Gauze Pads Of Paper Exfoliating Cleanser Nail Files Nail Brushes Women's Sandals Isopropyl Alcohols Nail Cleaners Antibiotic Creams Nail Clippers

How to Give Yourself a French Manicure Difficulty: Moderate Looking for a polish job that can take you from day to night, casual to dressy? Consider a french manicure. From daytime denim to evening elegance, the popular white-tipped look will never leave you wondering whether your polish complements your outfit.

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STEP 1: Hit the drugstore or beauty supply center to pick up your tools: base/top coat, tip guide strips, neutral polish and white polish. Neutral polishes are very pale, sheer shades with a pink, beige or peach cast. Consider kits that offer everything in one convenient box. STEP 2: Clip, file and shape your nails. Tend to your cuticles, then wash and dry your nails completely. Apply the base/top coat and let it dry. STEP 3: Peel off a guide strip and affix it below the tip of a nail, following its natural curve. The guide will allow you to paint an even white tip with ease and precision. STEP 4: Decide where to place the guide strips based on the length of your nails. In general, the longer the nail, the longer the white tip should be. Make sure that the arch of the guide is smooth and rounded and that the tip lengths are all relatively consistent. STEP 5: Paint each nail tip white, extending the brush stroke from the top of the guide to the end of the nail. Take care not to get any white polish on the body of the nail below the guide. Let the tips dry.

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STEP 6: Remove all the guides. Dissolve leftover adhesive by rubbing it gently with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. STEP 7: Apply two coats of the neutral polish, letting the first coat dry before the second application. Finish with a thin layer of base/top coat.

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Limit neutral polish to one coat if you find that a second coat is too opaque. If the classic french manicure is a little too conservative for your style, make your own color combination. Instead of neutral and white polishes, use red with black tips, red with gold tips or white with silver tips. Give yourself time to practice. It may take awhile to get the hang of applying the tip guides. The point of an orange stick may help you position them. Keep your hands very still as the polish dries to avoid denting or smudging it.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • • • • • • •

Rubbing Alcohol Nail Brushes Nail Files Manicure Scissors Nail Buffers Cotton Swabs Nail Clippers French Manicure Kits Manicure Kits Nail Cleaners

How to Care for Your Fingernails The easiest route to healthy nails is through a well-planned regimen of diet and grooming. Eat the correct foods and protect your hands from environmental stress for strong nails.

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STEP 1: Incorporate the recommended daily allowance of vitamin B, calcium and protein into your diet.

STEP 2: Take a daily multivitamin to ensure that you are getting the proper amounts of other vitamins. •

STEP 3: Wear rubber gloves whenever you use cleaning products, wash dishes or work in your garden to protect your nails from chemicals and dirt.

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STEP 4: Moisturize nail beds regularly with a nondrying nail lotion. Rub the lotion over the entire nail bed at least once a day.

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STEP 5: Trim cuticles once each week. Soften cuticles with a specialized cuticle cream, then trim carefully with a cuticle clipper.

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STEP 6: Clip your nails regularly in a rounded or squared shape. The pointier the tip of your fingernail, the more likely it is to break off. •

STEP 7: Give your nails a break from polish as often as possible. The more time your nails spend in the nude, the less they will dry and chip.

Tips & Warnings • •

Avoid biting your nails. Biting is a surefire way to create unhealthy and unsightly nails. If you develop ridges along the base of your nail bed, increase your intake of vitamin B.

Overall Things You'll Need • • • • • •

Washcloths Manicure Scissors Nail Files Cuticle Creams Nail Buffers Nail Brushes

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Multivitamins Nail Clippers Manicure Kits Nail Polishes Nail Polish Remover Nail Cleaners

Rubber Gloves

Cosmetic Ingredient Dicitonary A Acacia farnesiana extract. A fragrant extract from a type of acacia tree. There is no research showing it to have any benefit for skin Acacia senegal. Herb that can have anti-inflammatory properties, but that is used primarily as a thickening agent. See gums. Accutane. Generic name: isotretinoin. A prescription-only drug derived from vitamin A, and which is taken orally. It essentially stops the oil production in sebaceous glands (the oil-producing structures of the skin) and literally shrinks these glands to the size of a baby's. This prevents sebum (oil) from clogging the hair follicle, mixing with dead skin cells, and rupturing the follicle wall to create an environment where a bacterium (Propionibacterium acnes) can thrive, which can result in pimples or cysts. Normal oil production resumes when treatment is completed, and the sebaceous glands slowly begin to grow larger again, but rarely as large as they were before treatment. "Because of its relatively rapid onset of action and its high efficacy with reducing more than 90% of the most severe [acne] inflammatory lesions, Accutane has a role as an effective treatment in patients with severe acne that is recalcitrant to other therapies". However, Accutane is controversial for many reasons, principally because of its most insidious side effect: It has been proven to cause severe birth defects in nearly 90% of the babies born to women who were pregnant while taking it. Other commonly reported, although temporary, side effects of Accutane include dry skin and lips, mild nosebleeds (your nose can get really dry for the first few days), hair loss, aches and pains, itching, rash, fragile skin, increased sensitivity to the sun, headaches, and peeling palms and hands. More serious, although much less common, side effects include severe headaches, nausea, vomiting, blurred vision, changes in mood, depression, severe stomach pain, diarrhea, decreased night vision, bowel problems, persistent dryness of eyes, calcium deposits in tendons, an increase in cholesterol levels, and yellowing of the skin. acerola fruit extract. Acerola contains vitamin C (See vitamin C). However, the dry acerola fruit and powder are unlikely to be a good source of vitamin C because much of the vitamin C is destroyed during the drying and processing acetic acid. Acid found in vinegar, some fruits, and human sweat. It can be a skin irritant and drying to skin, though it also has disinfecting properties. acetone. Strong solvent that removes nail polish. acetyl carnitine HCL. See L-carnitine. acetyl glucosamine. Amino acid sugar and the primary constituent of mucopolysaccharides and hyaluronic acid. It is an agent that has good water-binding properties for skin. In large concentrations it can be effective for wound healing. There is research showing that chitosan (which is composed of acetyl glucosamine) can help wound healing in a complex. However, that is a few generations removed from the tiny amount of acetyl glucosamine used in cosmetics. Further, there is no research demonstrating that wrinkles are related to wounds. See L-carnitine. acetyl glyceryl ricinoleate. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester. acetyl hexapeptide-3. Is a synthetically derived peptide that has been showing up in dozens of skin care and makeup products, especially those claiming to have a muscle-relaxing effect similar to Botox injections. Claims typically have to do with preventing muscle contractions when making facial expressions, thus reducing the appearance of expression lines. The company selling acetyl hexapeptide-3 (trade name

Argireline), Centerchem, is based in Spain. According to their Web site, "Argireline works through a unique mechanism which relaxes facial tension leading to a reduction in superficial facial lines and wrinkles with regular use. Argireline has been shown to moderate excessive catecholamines release." I strongly doubt that any of that is true because there isn't a shred of published research substantiating any part of it. However, even if it were vaguely true, that would not be good news for your body because you wouldn't want a cosmetic ingredient without any safety data, efficacy documentation, or independent research messing around with your catecholamines. Catecholamines are compounds in the body that serve as neurotransmitters such as epinephrine, adrenaline, and dopamine. Epinephrine is a substance that prepares the body to handle emergencies such as cold, fatigue, and shock. A deficiency of dopamine in the brain is responsible for the symptoms of Parkinson's disease. None of that sounds like something you want a cosmetic to inhibit or reduce. We don’t know the long-term adverse effects of applying acetyl hexapeptide-3 to skin. If it really worked to relax facial muscles, it would work all over the face (assuming you’re using the products as directed). If all the muscles in your face were relaxed from topical application of acetyl hexapeptide-3, you’d have sagging, not youthful, skin. To date, there have been no further substantiated, peer-reviewed studies proving acetyl hexapeptide-3 is a viable alternative to or replacement for Botox injections. For all the fear espoused by companies featuring this peptide in their “works like Botox” products, there is considerably more efficacy, usage, and safety documentation available for Botox. Despite claims being made for acetyl hexapeptide-3 (argireline), there is a clinical study revealing that this ingredient is not even remotely as effective as Botox in reducing wrinkles. It is also interesting to note, that even Botox when applied topically on skin has no impact on the skin or muscles in any way shape or form!. acetyl tributyl citrate. Related to citric acid and used as a plasticizer, most commonly in nail polish and nail-hardening products. See citric acid. acetylated castor oil. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester. acetylated hydrogenated cottonseed glyceride. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester. acetylated lanolin. Emollient derived from lanolin. See lanolin. acetylated lanolin alcohol. An ester of lanolin alcohol uses as an emollient and occlusive agent. An ester is a compound formed from an alcohol and an acid with the elimination of water, and are common among cosmetic ingredients. acetylated palm kernel glycerides. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester. Achillea millefolium. See yarrow extract. acid. Anything with a pH lower than 7 is acid—above 7 is alkaline. Water has a pH of 7. Skin has an average pH of 5.5. acne soap. Soaps that often contain very irritating ingredients in addition to harsh cleansers that, especially when combined with other acne treatments, can super-irritate the skin. There is no reason to overclean the skin, because breakouts have nothing to do with how clean your skin is! A study reported in Infection demonstrated that "in the group using soap the mean number of inflammatory [acne] lesions increased…. Symptoms or signs of irritation were seen in 40.4% of individuals…." Furthermore, if the acne cleanser does contain antibacterial agents, the benefit would be washed down the drain. acrylate. See film-forming agent. Acrylates Copolymer. See film-forming agent. acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer. See film-forming agent. Actaea racemosa. See black cohosh. active ingredient. The active ingredients list is the part of an ingredient label that must adhere to specific

regulations mandated by the FDA. Active ingredients must be listed first on an ingredient label. The amount and exact function of each active ingredient is controlled and must be approved by the FDA. Active ingredients are considered to have a pharmacological altering effect on skin, and these effects must be documented by scientific evaluation and approved by the FDA. Active ingredients include such substances as sunscreen ingredients, skin-lightening agents, and benzoyl peroxide. See inactive ingredient. adenine. Component of DNA that carries genetic information to the cell. See DNA. adenosine triphosphate. An organic compound from adenosine, which is formed by the hydrolysis of yeast nucleic acids. All living things need a continual supply of energy in order to function. Animals obtain their energy by oxidizing foods, plants obtain energy by using chlorophyll to trap sunlight. However, before the energy can be implemented, it must first be changed into a form that the organism can readily use. This special form, or carrier of energy, is the molecule adenosine triphosphate (ATP). In humans, ATP serves as the major energy source within the cell to drive a number of biological processes such as protein synthesis. The cell breaks down ATP by hydrolysis to yield adenosine diphosphate (ADP), which is then further broken down to yield adenosine monophosphate (AMP). Research into topically applied adenosine triphosphate is just beginning, but it appears to have strong potential as a cell-communicating ingredient and as an inflammation modulator adipic acid/neopentyl glycol/trimellitic anhydride copolymer. A synthetic polymer. See film-forming agent. advanced glycation endproduct. Advanced glycation endproducts, also known as AGEs, are caused by the body's major fuel source, namely glucose. This simple sugar is essential for energy, yet it also can bind strongly to proteins (the body's fundamental building blocks) and form abnormal structures (AGEs) that progressively damage tissue elasticity. Once AGEs are generated, they begin a process that prevents many systems from behaving normally by literally causing tissue to cross-link and become hardened. The theory is that by breaking these AGE bonds you can undo or stop the damage they cause. There are studies showing aminoguanidine and carnosine to be AGE inhibitors that can prevent glucose cross-linking of proteins and the loss of elasticity associated with aging and diabetes, but many other substances are potential candidates as AGE inhibitors as well. One study examined over 92 substances and 29 of them showed some degree of inhibitory activity, with 9 compounds proving to be 30 to 40 times stronger than aminoguanidine. AGE and free-radical damage may be inextricably linked, but none of this has been shown to have relevance when it comes to topical application of these substances when they are included in cosmetics. Aerocarpus santalinus. See red sandalwood. Aesculus hippocastanum. See horse chestnut. agar. See algae. Agaricus bisporus extract. An extract of mushroom that is thought to help regulate skin cell production by inhibiting cell growth, particularly for use in psoriasis, but research in this regard is mixed. Internally, there is research showing it can inhibit the growth of breast cancer cells and colon cancer cells. AGE. See advanced glycation endproduct. age spot. There is no such thing as an "age spot." The skin can develop brown patches for many reasons, but the characteristic small ones on the hands, arms, and face are caused by sun damage. These are possibly indications of precancerous conditions and should be watched carefully for changes. See melasma. Agrimonia eupatoria leaf extract. Research shows this plant extract inhibits the hepatitis b virus and has antioxidant properties. Whether or not it has a benefit when applied topically is not known. There is no research showing it to be effective for cellulite. AHA. Acronym for alpha hydroxy acid. AHAs are derived from various plant sources or from milk. However, 99% of the AHAs used in cosmetics are synthetically derived. In low concentrations (less than 3%) AHAs work as water-binding agents. At concentrations over 4% and in a base with an acid pH of 3 to 4, these can exfoliate skin cells by breaking down the substance in skin that holds skin cells together. The most effective and well-researched AHAs are glycolic acid and lactic acid. Malic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid may also be effective but are considered less stable and less skin-friendly; there is little research showing them to have benefit for skin.

AHAs may irritate mucous membranes and cause irritation. However, AHAs have been widely used for therapy of photodamaged skin, and also have been reported to normalize hyperkeratinization (overthickened skin) and to increase viable epidermal thickness and dermal glycosaminoglycans content. A vast amount of research has substantially described how the aging process affects the skin and has demonstrated that many of the unwanted changes can be improved by topical application of AHAs, including glycolic and lactic acid. Ahnfeltia concinna extract. See algae. ahnfeltia extract. See algae. Ajuga turkestanica extract. The only research about this plant indicates that it may have anabolic steroid properties. There is no other research showing this to be of benefit for skin. alanine. See amino acid. Alaria esculenta. See algae. albumin. Found in egg white, and can leave a film over skin. It can constrict skin temporarily, which can make it look smoother temporarily, but it can also cause irritation and is not helpful for skin. Alchemilla vulgaris. Plant with antimicrobial properties. Its high tannin content can cause skin irritation. alcloxa. More technically known as aluminum chlorhydroxy allantoinate, alcloxa has constricting properties that can be irritating for skin. alcohol. A group of organic compounds that have a vast range of forms and uses in cosmetics. In some benign forms they are glycols used as humectants that help deliver ingredients into skin. When fats and oils (See fatty acid) are chemically reduced, they become a group of less-dense alcohols called fatty alcohols that can have emollient properties or can become detergent cleansing agents. When alcohols have low molecular weights they can be drying and irritating. The alcohols to be concerned about in skin-care products are ethanol, denatured alcohol, ethyl alcohol, methanol, benzyl alcohol, isopropyl, and SD alcohol, which can be extremely drying and irritating to skin. When these ingredients are at the top of an ingredient list it is problematic for all skin types, when they are at the end of an ingredient list there isn’t enough concentration present to be considered a problem for skin. Aleurites fordii oil. Oil from the Polynesian tung tree. May have antimicrobial properties for skin. alfalfa extract. Can be an antioxidant in skin-care products. algae. Algae are very simple, chlorophyll-containing organisms, in a family that includes more than 20,000 different known species. A number of these have been used for drugs, where they can work as anticoagulants, antibiotics, antihypertensive agents, blood cholesterol reducers, dilatory agents, insecticides, and anti-tumorigenic agents. In cosmetics, algae are used as thickening agents, water-binding agents, and antioxidants. Some algae are also potential skin irritants. For example, the phycocyanin found in blue-green algae has been suspected of allergenicity and of causing dermatitis on the basis of patch tests. Other forms of algae, such as Irish moss and carrageenan, contain proteins, vitamin A, sugar, starch, vitamin B1, iron, sodium, phosphorus, magnesium, copper, and calcium. These are all useful as sources for skin care, either as emollients or antioxidants. However, the claims that algae can stop or eliminate wrinkling, heal skin, or provide other elaborate benefits are completely unsubstantiated. algin. Brown algae. See brown algae and algae. alginic acid. Obtained by treating dry seaweed with acid to create a very thick, gelatin-like substance. It is used as a thickening agent in cosmetics. See algae. aliphatic hydrocarbon. Hydrocarbon contained in natural gas and mineral oils. It is a synthetic fluid with varying properties that range from solvent to slip agent. See slip agent and solvent. alkaline. Anything with a pH higher than 7 is alkaline; below 7 is acid. Water has a pH of 7; skin has an average pH of 5.5. Skin irritation can be caused by products with a pH of 8 or over. Also, research indicates that the bacterium that causes acne, Propriobacterium acnes, proliferates when the skin is more alkaline

alkanet extract. See Alkanna tinctoria extract. Alkanna tinctoria extract. There is research showing this extract to have antiviral and antibacterial properties. However, information on some Web sites about hepatitis C has shown that this extract is toxic to the liver when consumed, alkyloamides. Identified on skin-care product labels as DEA (See diethanolamine), triethanolamine (TEA), and MEA (monoethanolamine), these are used primarily for their foaming ability in shampoos, but can also be used as thickening or binding agents. They can be skin irritants. In addition, alkyloamides contain a free amine that can combine with formaldehyde-releasing preservatives in cosmetics, and there is concern that they may form carcinogens. allantoin. By-product of uric acid extracted from urea and considered an effective anti-irritant. all-trans retinoic acid. Active ingredient in Retin-A and Renova. See also tretinoin. almond oil. Oil extracted from the seeds of almonds and used as an emollient. See natural moisturizing factors. almond oil PEG-6 esters. Used as emollient and thickening agents in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester. Aloe Barbadensis. See aloe vera. aloe extract. See aloe vera. aloe juice. See aloe vera. aloe vera. There is no real evidence that aloe vera (Aloe barbadenis) helps the skin in any significant way. An article in the British Journal of General Practice stated that "Topical application of aloe vera is not an effective preventative for radiation-induced injuries…. Whether it promotes wound healing is unclear…. Even though there are some promising results, clinical effectiveness of oral or topical aloe vera is not sufficiently defined at present." There is research indicating that isolated components of aloe vera, such as glycoprotein, can have some effectiveness for wound healing and as an anti-irritant. In pure form, aloe vera's benefits on skin are probably its lack of occlusion and the refreshing sensation it provides. alpha bisabolol. See bisabolol. alpha glucan oligosaccharide. Used as an emollient and has water-binding properties. See mucopolysaccharide. alpha hydroxy acid. See AHA. alpha lipoic acid. An enzyme that, when applied topically on skin, can be a very good antioxidant. While studies of alpha lipoic acid do exist, none of them has been carried out on people, and none have been double-blind or placebo-controlled to evaluate its effect on wrinkling. Most of the research has been done on human dermal fibroblasts in vitro (test tube) in cell-culture systems. In vitro results are interesting, but it's not known if the results translate to human skin. These models do mimic human skin, but something that mimics human skin is still not the same as living skin. There is research showing that alpha lipoic acid, when taken orally, can have benefit in preventing cellular damage via its antioxidant properties. Again, whether all that translates to the effect on skin is unclear. It is clear from the research that alpha lipoic acid is a potent antioxidant, but this isn't the only one and to date, there is no best one. See antioxidant. alpha-tocopherol. See vitamin E. Alpinia Officinarum root extract. May have antioxidants properties. alteromonas ferment extract. Alteromonas is a gram-negative bacteria found in seawater. It may have water-binding properties for skin, but there is scant research supporting this. Althaea rosea. See mallow

Althea officinalis. Latin name for the marshmallow plant. See mallow. alumina. Aluminum oxide, used as an abrasive, thickening agent, and absorbent in cosmetics. aluminum chlorohydrate. Chemically a salt, and used in antiperspirant preparations. It can be extremely irritating on abraded skin. aluminum magnesium silicate. Salt that has absorbent properties. aluminum powder. A metallic element used as a coloring agent. It is composed of finely ground particles of aluminum. Permanently listed (since 1977) by the FDA as a safe coloring additive. aluminum silicate. Salt that has absorbent and abrasive properties. aluminum starch octenylsuccinate. Powdery thickening agent, absorbent, and anticaking agent used in cosmetics. aluminum sulfate. Topical disinfectant and a typical ingredient in deodorants. It can be a skin irritant. amino acid. Fundamental constituents of all proteins found in the body, such as: alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, cystine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, and valine. Some of these amino acids can be synthesized by the body; others, the essential amino acids, must be obtained from protein in the diet. In skin-care products, these types of ingredients work primarily as water-binding agents, and some have antioxidant properties and wound-healing abilities as well. However, these substances cannot affect, change, or rebuild wrinkles. Whether the protein in a skin-care product is derived from an animal or a plant, the skin can't tell the difference. See protein and natural moisturizing factors. aminobutyric acid. Amino acid that has water-binding properties for skin and may be an anti-inflammatory. It supposedly also increases growth hormone when taken orally, but the only support for this is a single obscure study that was conducted more than two decades ago in fewer than 20 subjects, and the results have yet to be replicated by other scientists. aminomethyl propanediol. Used to adjust pH in cosmetics. aminomethyl propanol. Used in cosmetics at levels of 1% or below to adjust pH. Aminophylline. This pharmaceutical ingredient is found in prescription bronchodilators—medications designed to open blocked air passageways in lungs—and also is found in some cellulite lotions and creams. Aminophylline gained notoriety as an ingredient in cellulite creams as a result of a study published in Obesity Research (November 1995, Supplemental pages 561S–568S). However, the validity of this research was called into question because one of its authors was marketing an aminophylline cream being sold at the time, and thus was not considered an objective investigator. Also, the number of participants in the study was small, and most also were dieting and exercising at the same time they were applying the aminophylline cream. Doubt about aminophylline’s value ,which described a double-blind study that compared the effectiveness of three different treatments for cellulite on three separate groups of women. One investigated the twice-daily application of aminophylline cream compared with a placebo; another the twice-weekly treatment using endermologie (a machine rolled over the skin’s surface, which has been claimed to get rid of cellulite) on one leg and nothing on the other; and a third combining endermologie on both legs with the same cream regimen used by the first group. “No statistical difference existed in measurements between legs for any of the treatment groups… [Even] The best subjective assessment, by the patients themselves, revealed that only 3 of 35 aminophylline-treated legs and 10 of 35 [e]ndermologie-treated legs [felt] their cellulite appearance improved.” There is no other research showing this to be helpful and the risk of absorption and bronchial involvement when applied topically remains unclear. ammonium chloride. Alkaline salt used as a pH balancer in skin-care products; it is not used in concentrations that would be problematic for skin. ammonium laureth sulfate. Can be derived from coconut; used primarily as a detergent cleansing agent and is considered to be gentle and effective. See surfactant.

ammonium lauryl sulfate. Can be derived from coconut; used primarily as a detergent cleansing agent and is considered to be gentle and effective. See surfactant. amniotic extract or fluid. There is some research showing pure concentrations of amniotic fluid (human) to have some benefit for wound healing. However, there is no research showing amniotic fluid to be effective for wrinkles or other skin care needs or when diluted in cosmetic formulations. amodimethicone. See silicone. amyl cinnamate. Fragrant component. amyl salicylate. Fragrant component. amyris oil. A fragrant oil. It has no other known benefit for skin. Anacyclus pyrethrum. See pellitory. Anacystis nidulans extract. See algae. Ananas sativus fruit extract. See pineapple extract. andiroba oil. Extracted from the Brazilian mahogany tree; it has anti-inflammatory properties andrographolide. Component of Andrographis paniculata, an herb common to India and China. It has antiinflammatory and antioxidant properties. Angelica polymorpha sinensis root extract. See dong quai. anisaldehyde. Synthetic fragrance used in cosmetics. anise. Also known as aniseed; it can have potent antioxidant and antibacterial properties, but its fragrant component makes this a potential skin irritant and it can cause photosensitivity annato extract. Natural plant colorant derived from the flesh surrounding the seed of Bixa orellana, a shrub native to South America; it produces a deep yellow-orange to red color. Anthemis nobilis flower extract. See chamomile. Anthocyanins. Naturally occurring substances in a plant that give fruit, vegetables, and plants their unique color. Derived from two Greek words meaning plant and blue, anthocyanins are the pigments that make blueberries blue, raspberries red, etc. Anthocyanins are potent antioxidants. There is research showing that plants rich in anthocyanins such as pomegranate and grapes have anti-tumor properties. Over 300 different anthocyanins have been identified. Anthyllis vulnera. There is no research showing this plant to have any benefit for skin. antibacterial. Any ingredient that destroys or inhibits the growth of bacteria, particularly in the case of bacteria that cause blemishes. anti-inflammatory. Any ingredient that reduces certain signs of inflammation, such as swelling, tenderness, pain, irritation, or redness. anti-irritant. Any ingredient that reduces certain signs of inflammation, such as swelling, tenderness, pain, itching, or redness. antioxidant. Describes the function a specific ingredient can have on skin to reduce the effects of freeradical damage. Free-radical damage can be caused by the presence of oxygen or any compound that contains an oxygen molecule (such as carbon monoxide, hydrogen peroxide, and superoxide), sunlight, and pollution. Any substance that impedes or slows free-radical damage by preventing the oxidative action of molecules is referred to as an "antioxidant." Many vitamins have antioxidant properties, including vitamins A, C, and E, as do amino acids such as methionine, L-cysteine, and L-carnitine; enzymes such as superoxide

dismutase and ecatalase; and coenzymes such as alpha lipoic acid and coenzyme Q10. Other antioxidant compounds include glutathione and methylsufonylsulfate. So what do free-radical damage and antioxidants have to do with wrinkles or skin damage? No one is exactly sure, but, theoretically, when free-radical damage originates from natural environmental factors and fails to be cancelled out by antioxidant protection, then wrinkles appear. If we don't get enough antioxidant protection, either from our own body's production, from dietary sources, or from other sources (including antioxidants we put on our skin), free-radical damage continues unrestrained, causing cells to break down and impairing or destroying their ability to function normally. Free-radical damage destroys collagen and other skin components. There are problems, however, with the hope that stopping free-radical damage with antioxidants can protect your skin, and these problems are that free-radical damage is constant and extensive. How could you ever use enough antioxidants to stop it? How much is needed? How much oxygen, sunlight, or pollution can you really keep away from all skin cells, or even some skin cells? How fast do the antioxidants you apply to your skin get used up? Do they last 20 minutes, one hour, two hours, or more on the skin? At this time, no one knows the answers to any of these questions for sure. Major investigations are currently under way in this fascinating area of human aging (intrinsic aging) and sun damage (extrinsic aging), factors that most unquestionably influence wrinkling. However, even though many respected researchers are working on this issue, the research is still in its infancy, and suggesting anything beyond that is sheer fantasy. See free-radical damage. aorta extract. Obtained from hearts of animals. It is supposed to have rejuvenating properties for skin, but this has never been proven in research of any kind. Much like any part of a human or animal body, the heart tissue is a source of proteins, amino acids, and other water-binding agents for skin. Because of the concerns regarding Mad Cow Disease, ingredients like these are best avoided in skin-care products. apple cider vinegar. See vinegar. apricot kernel. A seed that, especially when finely ground, is a natural exfoliant. apricot kernel oil. An emollient plant oil pressed from the seeds of apricots, and similar to other nonfragrant plant oils. See natural moisturizing factors. Aquaporin. A series of 10 different proteins that form water channels in living things to regulate the water content of skin and other organs. Aquaporin 3 is found abundantly in the skin of humans and animals. In relation to aquaporin 3, glycerol absorption and transportation through these “water channels” is fundamental to preventing water loss and increasing skin’s elasticity. arachidic acid. Derived from peanut oil and used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. arachidonic acid. Produced from phospholipids and fatty acids. There is research showing that this is potentially unsafe and mutagenic when used topically, though more study is needed to decide this conclusively. arachidyl alcohol. Waxy substance used as a thickening agent and emollient in cosmetics. arachidyl propionate. Waxy substance used as a thickening agent and emollient in cosmetics. Arachis hypogaea extract. Extract of the plant commonly known as the peanut. It can have emollient and anti-inflammatory properties for skin, though peanut allergy is one of the five most frequent food allergies in children and in adults. arbutin. A hydroquinone derivative isolated from the leaves of the bearberry shrub, cranberry, blueberry, some mushrooms, and most types of pears. Because of arbutin's hydroquinone content, it can have melanin-inhibiting properties. Although the research describing arbutin's effectiveness is persuasive (even if almost all of the research has been done on animals or in vitro), concentration protocols have not been established. That means we just don't know how much arbutin it takes to have an effect in lightening the skin. Moreover, most cosmetics companies don't use arbutin in their products because there are Shiseidoowned patents controlling its use in skin-care products for skin lightening. To get around this problem, many cosmetics companies use plant extracts that contain arbutin, such as bearberry leaf extract. There is limited research, mostly animal studies or in vitro, showing that the plant extracts that contain arbutin used in skincare products have any impact on skin. Whether or not these extracts are effective in the small amounts present in cosmetics has not been established.

Arctium lappa. See burdock root. Arctostaphylos uva ursi leaf. See bearberry. argan oil. Derived from the nuts of the argania tree; it is an emollient oil (similar to peanut oil) that may have anti-inflammatory properties, but there is no research supporting that claim. Argania spinosa kernel oil. See argan oil. Argania spinosa oil. See argan oil. arginine. Amino acid that has antioxidant properties and can be helpful for wound healing. Argireline. See acetyl hexapeptide-3. arnica extract. Extract from the plant Arnica montana. It is repeatedly stated in all herbal journals used for the compilation of this dictionary that arnica should not be applied to abraded skin because it is a significant skin irritant. The PDR Family Guide to Natural Medicines & Healing Therapies says: "Repeated contact with cosmetics containing arnica can cause itching, blisters, ulcers, and dead skin." arrowroot. Thickening agent; it has no known benefit for skin. artemia extract. See algae. Artemisia absinthium extract. See mugwort extract. Artemisia annua. See wormwood. Artemisia vulgaris. See mugwort extract. artichoke extract. May have antioxidant benefits for skin. Ascophyllum nodosum. Form of seaweed. See algae. ascorbic acid. Form of vitamin C that has antioxidant properties and anticancer properties when taken orally. It can be difficult to stabilize in formulations. Its acid component is considered a skin irritant. ascorbyl glucosamine. Form of vitamin C that has little research showing it to have the antioxidant or skinlightening properties of other forms of vitamin C. The only study that does exist showed it to be ineffective for skin lightening. ascorbyl glucoside. Form of vitamin C combined with glucose. It can function as an antioxidant, though only minimal research substantiates this. ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinate. Form of vitamin C that is considered stable and functions as an antioxidant and thickening agent. See vitamin C. ascorbyl palmitate. Stable and nonacidic form of vitamin C that is effective as an antioxidant. asiatic acid. See Centella asiaticae. asparagine. See amino acid. Asparagopsis armata extract. Derived from seaweed. See algae. Asparagus officinalis stem extract. There is no research showing asparagus extract to have any benefit for skin. aspartic acid. See amino acid. Aspergillus/Aspidosperma quebracho ferment. Fungus compound that is considered problematic for health. Aspidosperma quebracho is the bark of a tree that has no known benefit for skin. There is no research showing that the combination of Aspergillus and Aspidosperma quebracho can have any benefit for

skin. Astaxanthin. See Astaxanthin Extract. Astaxanthin Extract. A carotenoid (carotene pigment) found in plants, algae, and fish, particularly salmon. It functions as an antioxidant. It has a strong ability to destroy unstable oxygen molecules. Preliminary research suggests that Astaxanthin may be able to prevent the oxidative damage to skin after exposure to UVA radiation. Astragalus membranaceus. Scientific name for the Chinese herb Huang-Qi, also known as milk vetch. See milk vetch. Astragalus sinicus. See milk vetch. atharanthus roseus. See Madagascar periwinkle. ATP. See adenosine triphosphate. Atractyloydes lancea root extract. Also known as Chinese Thistle Daisy, this root extract is used in Chinese and Japanese alternative medicine for angiogenesis (the formation of new blood vessels) in type-2 diabetes because it contains beta-eudesmol. Some of its other components have been shown to have antiinflammatory properties as well. Whether or not this can be of benefit when the entire extract is applied topically is unknown. Avena sativa. Oat plant. Oat extract can have anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory properties. Avens extract. Derived from the geum plant family; can be a skin irritant due to its tannin and eugenol content. avobenzone. Synthetic sunscreen ingredient (also known as Parsol 1789 and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane) that can protect against the entire range of the sun's UVA rays. avocado oil. Emollient oil similar to other nonfragrant plant oils. See natural moisturizing factors. awapuhi. English name for wild ginger. See ginger extract. Ayurveda. Alternative health practice historically developed in India. The term "Ayurveda" is based on two Sanskrit words: ayu, meaning life, and veda, meaning science. According to an article in the Indian Journal of Experimental Biology , the Ayurvedic system of treatments believes that the "living system is made of panch-mahabuta, in the form of vata, pitta and kapha at the physical level and satwa, raja and tama at the mental level. This covers the psychosomatic constitution and [is] commonly known as the Tridosh theory. The imbalance in these body humours [mechanisms] is the basic cause of any type of disease manifestation." Another interpretation of Ayurvedic theory, in Alternative Therapies Health Medicine (March 7, 2001), noted that "The body is composed of 3 body doshas, 3 mental doshas, 7 dhatus, and malas. The harmony among the body doshas of vata (nervous system), pitta (enzymes), and kapha (mucus) and the gunas, or mental doshas (which are human attributes: satogun [godly], rajas [kingly], and tamas [evil]), constitutes health, and their disharmony constitutes disease. The management of illness requires balancing the doshas back into a harmonious state through lifestyle interventions, spiritual nurturing, and treatment with herbo-mineral formulas based on one's mental and bodily constitution." There is no research showing how or if Ayurvedic principles of any kind can affect skin (though I assure you they do not prevent sun damage—that, at least, is certain). Azadirachta indica. See neem extract. azelaic acid. Trade name Azelex; a component of grains such as wheat, rye, and barley. It is effective for a number of skin conditions when applied topically in a cream formulation at a 20% concentration. For the most part, azelaic acid is recommended as an option for acne treatment, but there is also some research showing it to be effective for the treatment of skin discolorations. For example, "The efficacy of 20% azelaic acid cream and 4% hydroquinone cream, both used in conjunction with a broad-spectrum sunscreen, against melasma was investigated in a 24-week, double-blind study with 329 women. Over the treatment period the azelaic acid cream yielded 65% good or excellent results; no significant treatment differences were observed with regard to overall rating, reduction in lesion size, and pigmentary intensity. Severe side

effects such as allergic sensitization or exogenous ochronosis were not observed with azelaic acid". However, other research suggests that azelaic acid is more irritating than hydroquinone mixed with glycolic acid or kojic acid Azelex. See azelaic acid. azuki beans. Legumes ground and used as abrasives in scrub products. azulene. Chamomile extract used primarily as a coloring agent in cosmetics. It can have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties

B babassu oil. Plant oil that can have emollient properties for skin. There is no research showing it to have special properties for skin. Bacillus subtilis. Naturally occurring widespread bacterium that can be used to control plant diseases, fungal plant infestation, and several types of mildew. Based on available information, the bacterium appears to have no adverse effects on humans or the environment (Source: Environmental Protection Agency, balm mint extract. Derived from a fragrant plant; it poses some risk of skin irritation. It also has some reported antiviral properties. Claims that it can help heal wounds are not substantiated. balsam peru. A fatty resin that topically can cause allergic skin reactions and contact dermatitis. It also has the potential to cause photodermatitis and phototoxicity. Balsam peru is also a standard used in patch tests for skin sensitivity due to its high incidence of causing reactions banana extract. Has some weak antioxidant properties. bar cleanser. Although these are often advertised as being gentle or specially formulated, they are no better than or different from what you can buy at the drugstore. The irritating and pore-clogging ingredients are still included regardless of the price or claim. barberry. Plant whose primary component, berberine, is an alkaloid that can have antibacterial properties and some cellular anti-inflammatory response. However, it can also be a skin irritant because of its effect on cells barium sulfate. Earth mineral used as a whitening agent in cosmetics. It can be a skin irritant. barley extract. From barley plants. Can have antioxidant properties when ingested, but there is no research showing this to be the case when applied topically. batyl alcohol. Derived from glycerin and used as a stabilizing ingredient and skin conditioning agent. bay leaf oil. Can be a potent antioxidant. However, it can also be a potent skin irritant due to its fragrant component. bearberry extract. There is research showing it has antibacterial properties and antioxidant properties. There is a tiny amount of research showing it can have skin lightening properties. Bearberry extract’s potential efficacy is derived from its active components of hydroquinone and arbutin. Hydroquinone is well established as a melanin-inhibiting agent, while arbutin has far less quantitative information available, though in high concentrations it has shown it can inhibit melanin production.However, the fractional amount of bearberry extract used in skin-care products makes it unlikely to affect skin or melanin. See arbutin and hydroquinone. bee pollen. Can have antioxidant properties,but there is no research showing this to be true when applied topically. Bee pollen can also be a skin irritant and allergen. beeswax. Substance made by bees to build the walls of their honeycomb. It is a thickening agent and has some emollient properties. behenic acid. Fatty acid used as a thickening agent and surfactant. See fatty acid. behentrimonium chloride. An antistatic and hair-conditioning agent.

behenyl alcohol. A thickening agent used in cosmetics. It is not related to irritating forms of alcohol. Bellis perennis. See daisy flower extract. bentonite. Claylike material used as an absorbent in cosmetics. It can be drying for skin. benzalkonium chloride. Antimicrobial agent used as a preservative in skin-care products. There is no research showing it to have any effect against the acne bacterium Propionibacterium acnes. benzephenone-3. Also called oxybenzone. A sunscreen agent that protects primarily from the sun's UVB rays and some, but not all, UVA rays benzocaine. A topical anesthetic. benzoic acid. Preservative used in skin-care products; it is considered less irritating than other forms of preservatives. benzoin extract. Balsam resin that has some disinfecting and fragrant properties; it may also be a skin irritant . benzoin siam. See benzoin extract. benzophenones. Used in cosmetics as sunscreen agents to protect mostly from UVB radiation and from some, but not all, UVA radiation benzothonium chloride. Used as a preservative in cosmetics. It is generally considered less irritating than other forms of preservatives. benzoyl peroxide. Considered the most effective over-the-counter choice for a topical antibacterial agent in the treatment of blemishes. The amount of research demonstrating the effectiveness of benzoyl peroxide is exhaustive and conclusive. Among benzoyl peroxide's attributes is its ability to penetrate into the hair follicle to reach the bacteria that are causing the problem, and then killing them—with a low risk of irritation. It also doesn't pose the problem of bacterial resistance that some prescription topical antibacterials (antibiotics) do. Benzoyl peroxide solutions range in strength from 2.5% to 10%. It is best to start with less-potent concentrations, because a 2.5% benzoyl peroxide product is much less irritating than a 5% or 10% concentration, and it can be just as effective. The necessary concentration completely depends on how stubborn the strain of bacteria in your pores happens to be. benzyl alcohol. See alcohol. Berberis aristata. See barberry. bergamot oil. When used topically, it is a photosensitizer and has photomutagenic properties, meaning it can induce malignant changes to cells Bertholletia excelsa extract. See Brazil nut extract. beta hydroxy acid. See salicylic acid. beta sitosterol. A plant extract, similar to cholesterol that can have antimicrobial properties and, therefore, may be a problem for healthy skin cells. There is a small amount of research showing it to have antiinflammatory properties. beta-carotene. A member of the carotenoid family. There are hundreds of carotenoids including lycopene and lutein. Beta-carotene is a precursor that helps form retinol (vitamin A). It is converted to vitamin A in the liver as needed. Topically, beta-carotene is a potentially good antioxidant and can reduce the effects of sun damage, though this benefit is dose dependent. There is research showing that too much beta-carotene can generate oxidative damage beta-glucan. A polysaccharide, meaning it is a sugar (such as starch and cellulose) that can be derived from yeast. It has some antioxidant properties and is a strong anti-inflammatory agent. Betula alba. See birch bark.

BHA. Abbreviation for butylated hydroxyanisole, a synthetic, potent antioxidant, but also a suspected carcinogen. The abbreviation BHA should not be confused with beta hydroxy acid (salicylic acid), which is an exfoliant. Salicylic acid is abbreviated in discussions as BHA, but it would never be shown that way on a cosmetic ingredient list. BHA (beta hydroxy acid). See salicylic acid. BHT. Butylated hydroxytoluene, a synthetic, potent antioxidant that also has carcinogenic properties bifida ferment lysate. Type of bacteria found in the digestive system. It has no known effect on skin. bifidus extract. Carbohydrate in human milk that stimulates the growth of Lactobacillus bifidus in the intestine. In turn, the Lactobacillus bifidus lowers the pH of the intestinal contents and suppresses the growth of Escherischia coli and other pathogenic bacteria. Whether or not bifidus extract can have benefit for skin is unknown. bilberry extract. Some research shows bilberry to be effective as an antioxidant, but this effect has not been demonstrated on skin. bioflavonoid. A diverse range of substances that are components of many fruits and vegetables. Many of these have been shown to have potent antioxidant and gene-regulatory activity. biotin. Also known as vitamin H. It is a water-soluble vitamin produced in the body by certain types of intestinal bacteria and obtained from food. Considered part of the B complex group of vitamins, biotin is necessary for the metabolism of carbohydrates, fats, and amino acids (the building blocks of protein). However, it has no reported benefit for skin when applied topically. birch bark. Derived from the plant Betula alba (commonly called white birch). It can have potent antioxidant properties, but it can also have astringent properties, which makes it a potential irritant for skin if it is one of the main ingredients in a product. birch leaf extract. See birch bark. bisabolol. Can be extracted from chamomile or derived synthetically. It is an anti-irritant. bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester. bismuth oxychloride. A naturally occurring, grayish-white powder used as a skin protective, thickener, and absorbent agent. Permanently listed by the FDA as a coloring agent since 1977. bitter orange flower. See orange blossom. black cohosh. There is research showing that black cohosh when taken orally can have some effect on menopausal and pre-menopausal symptoms. However, there is no research showing that black cohosh can have this or any effect when applied topically on skin. black currant oil. See gamma linolenic acid. black elderberry. Has potent antioxidant properties. black locust extract. A plant extract that can have antioxidant properties, though it may have toxic components as well. black mulberry. There is no research showing this to have any benefit when applied topically to skin. black pepper extract and oil. Used topically as a counter-irritant, but that means it can cause significant skin irritation black raspberry. Fruit that has potent antioxidant properties black tea. See green tea.

black walnut shell extract. There is a small amount of research showing it to have antioxidant properties blackberry. Berries that have potent antioxidant properties. bladderwrack extract. Derived from a seaweed; it can be an effective antioxidant and has water-binding properties for skin Bletilla striata extract. Some research (Chinese and German) shows this to be effective for preventing blood clots and stemming bleeding, when taken orally, and it may stem bleeding when applied topically. There is extremely limited information about this plant extract in regard to skin. bloodroot. A potent skin irritant. bloodwort. Also known as yarrow. See yarrow extract. bluet extract. See cornflower. bois oil. Fragrant oil that has no research showing it to have benefit for skin. Bora cocos. See Poria cocos extract. borage seed extract. From the plant Borago officinalis. Can have anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory properties. borage seed oil. Contains gamma linolenic acid. Borago Officinalis Seed Oil. borage seed oil. borates. Used in cosmetics in small quantities primarily as pH adjusters (they have a pH of 9 to 11) or as antimicrobial agents In larger amounts, due to the high pH, they can be significant skin irritants. Borax. Also known as sodium borate decahydrate, is a mineral composed of sodium, boron, oxygen, and water. It has fungicide, preservative, insecticide, herbicide, and disinfectant properties. Borax functions as a bleaching agent by converting some water molecules to hydrogen peroxide (H2O2), which generates freeradical damage and is a problem for skin. The pH of borax is about 9 to 11 and it can therefore be a significant skin irritant when used in cosmetics. boric acid. May have wound-healing benefits , but in cosmetics is used primarily as an antimicrobial. boron nitride. A synthetic, inorganic powder. It has absorbent properties in cosmetics similar to organic powders such as talc. Boswellia carterii. See frankincense extract. Botox. The brand name of the nontoxic form of botulinum toxin type A. When injected into specific area of the face, particularly of the forehead, it prevents movement by partially and almost completely paralyzing the muscles of that area. The resulting inability to use particular face muscles causes certain wrinkles to disappear completely. This helps eliminate almost all of the wrinkles of the forehead, in the crow's-feet area (by the eyes), and the lines that run from the nose to the mouth (the naso-labial folds). Over 800,000 Botox treatments were administered in 2001. Since 1973, Botox has been used by ophthalmologists to treat patients with disabling eye ticks, as well as to treat crossed eyes. It is also used by other medical specialists to treat spasmodic neck muscles, spasmodic laryngeal muscles, multiple sclerosis, cerebral palsy, some post-stroke states, spinal cord injuries, nerve palsies, Parkinson's disease, facial spasms, and, most recently, migraine headaches. This extensive use (and the corresponding research) has shown that Botox has a great success rate, with minimal risk or detrimental side effects. In rare cases, depending on what parts of your face were injected, you may experience temporary facial or eye-area drooping, bruising, or jaw and neck weakness, but it lasts only for the duration of the Botox effect, so it goes away in three to six months. bovine spongiform encephalopathy. See Mad Cow Disease. boxwood extract. Can have constricting properties, which makes it a skin irritant.

boysenberry. Berry that can have potent antioxidant properties Brassica campestris. See rapeseed oil. Brazil nut extract. There is a small amount of research showing it can have antioxidant properties Brewer's yeast. See yeast. broad spectrum. Meant to refer to a sunscreen's ability to protect the skin from both UVA and UVB rays from the sun. This term is not regulated by the FDA, so a cosmetic company can make this claim about a product even when it does not actually provide adequate broad-spectrum protection. See UVA. bromelain. Enzyme found in pineapple. Theoretically bromelain breaks down the connecting structure that holds surface skin cells together, which causes exfoliation, but it can also cause irritation. However, exactly how much bromelain is needed, whether it is stable, and in what bases and pH it works best have not been established. There is little to no research demonstrating how bromelain reacts on skin. bronopol. Technical name 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, a formaldehyde-releasing preservative formaldehyde-releasing preservative. bronze powder. Mineral coloring agent derived from copper. Permanently listed (since 1977) by the FDA as a safe coloring additive. brown algae. There is no research showing this to be beneficial for skin bumetrizole. Sunscreen ingredient that absorbs primarily UVB light. Bupleurum falcatum extract. There is no research showing extracts of this plant to have any benefit for skin, though it may have some wound-healing properties for peptic ulcers. It does contain glucoside and polysaccharide, but whether these can affect skin following topical application of the extract is unknown Bupleurum falcatum extract. A plant used in Chinese medicine for a variety of ailments ranging from the common cold to liver problems. Some research has shown this extract to have anti-tumor, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. Whether or not these benefits can be delivered to skin in a lotion or cream is unknown. Bupleurum falcatum extract. A plant used in Chinese medicine for a variety of ailments ranging from the common cold to liver problems. Some research has shown this extract to have anti-tumor, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. Whether or not these benefits can be delivered to skin in a lotion or cream is unknown. burdock root. A small amount of research shows this plant it to be effective as an anti-inflammatory agent and antioxidant butcher's broom extract. There is evidence showing that it can reduce edema and venous problems when taken orally. It may also have anti-inflammatory properties for skin, but there is little evidence of this. butyl acetate. Solvent used in nail polish and many other products

C C10-18 triglycerides. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester. C12-15 alkyl benzoate. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester. C12-18 acid triglyceride. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester. C18-36 acid triglyceride. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester. C20-40 pareth-40. A mixture of polyethylene glycols of various molecular weight that can function as a stabilizing agent, solubolizer, and surfactant. cabbage rose extract. Highly fragrant substance that can be a skin irritant.

cactus flower extract. There is little information about this plant extract when applied topically, but it may be a skin irritant that causes itching and skin pustules caffeic acid. Potent antioxidant that may have some anticarcinogenic properties caffeine. Since 1971 when the first Starbucks opened in my hometown of Seattle, I have been a coffee lover. And over the years I’ve developed a passion for Grande and Venti Lattes. I would be thrilled to learn that this has somehow helped my thighs, but alas, this is far from the case. Separate from my own anecdotal experience, caffeine is one of the more typical ingredients to show up in cellulite creams and lotions. There are two reasons for this. The first is caffeine’s distant relationship to aminophylline. Aminophylline is a modified form of theophylline and caffeine contains theophylline. There is no research to prove or disprove that theophylline can affect cellulite. However, researchers have disproved aminophyilline’s impact on cellulite. The second reason caffeine may show up in cellulite products stems from research showing it to have benefit for weight loss. But that’s only when you drink it, not when you rub it on your thighs. There are only two studies showing caffeine to have benefit for reducing cellulite. One was conducted by Johnson & Johnson, which owns the RoC and Neutrogena brands, both of which sell cellulite creams that contain caffeine. The other was conducted by cosmetics ingredients manufacturers that sell anti-cellulite compounds. There is no other independent research showing caffeine provides any benefit for treating cellulite. Caffeine does have potential as an antioxidant, so it isn’t a wasted ingredient in skin-care products. It’s just not one that can reduce the appearance of cellulite. cajeputi oil. See Melaleuca cajeputi oil. calamine. Preparation of zinc carbonate, colored with ferric oxide (a form of rust). Zinc carbonate is considered a counter-irritant and is used to reduce itching. See counter-irritant. calcium ascorbate. One form of vitamin C; others include ascorbic acid, L-ascorbic acid, ascorbyl palmitate, and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. There is very little research concerning its health benefits, either topically or orally, in regard to its antioxidant benefits. See Ester-C. calcium carbonate. Chalk; used as an absorbent in cosmetics. calcium d-pantetheine-s-sulfonate. See calcium pantetheine sulfonate. calcium gluconate. Calcium is an essential mineral for the body. A small amount of research shows it to be a good anti-inflammatory and healing agent when applied topically. calcium pantetheine sulfonate. A small amount of in vitro research shows this to have melanin-inhibiting properties. calcium pantothenate. Also known as pantothenic acid. See pantothenic acid. calcium silicate. See silicate. calendula extract. Derived from the plant commonly known as pot marigold; there is little research showing it to have any effect on skin, though it may have antibacterial and antioxidant properties for skin. Calophyllum inophyllum seed oil. See tamanu oil. Calophyllum tacamahaca. Source of a plant oil that has emollient and antimutagenic properties. Camellia kissi oil. See Camellia sasanqua oil. Camellia oleifera. See green tea. Camellia sasanqua oil. Plant extract that has emollient properties for skin. There is a small amount of research showing it to have anti-inflammatory properties as well. Camellia sinensis. See green tea.

camphor. Aromatic substance obtained from the wood of a southeast Asian tree, Cinnamomum camphora, or manufactured synthetically. When applied to the skin it produces a cooling effect and dilates blood vessels, which can cause skin irritation and dermatitis with repeated use cananga extract. Fragrance used in cosmetics; it can be a skin irritant, much like ylang-ylang. Cananga odorata. See ylang-ylang. candelilla wax. Derived from candelilla plants; used as a thickening agent and emollient to give products such as lipsticks or stick foundations their form. Cannabis sativa L. oil. See hemp seed oil. canola oil. Plant lipid that has barrier-repair and anti-inflammatory properties. caprylic/capric triglyceride. Derived from coconut, and considered to be a good emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. capsaicin. Component of capsicum. When used topically, capsaicin can prevent the transmission of pain. It is also a potent topical irritant and can trigger dermatitis. See capsicum. capsicum. A large group of plants consisting primarily of the pepper family, including chili peppers and paprika. These are used as counter-irritants to relieve muscle aches. Capsicum and substances derived from it can cause allergic reactions or skin irritation and should never be applied to abraded skin. See counter-irritant. capsicum oleoresin. Fatty resin derived from capsicum plants. It can be a skin irritant and should not be applied to abraded skin. See capsicum. caramel. Natural coloring agent. carbomers. Thickening agents used primarily to create gel-like formulations. carbopol. See carbomers. cardamom. Plant of the ginger family, used as fragrance in cosmetics. Terpene is one of its major constituents, which can be a skin irritant and sensitizer. carmine. Natural red color that comes from the dried female cochineal beetle. It is sometimes used to color lip gloss, lipsticks, and other cosmetics. carnauba wax. Vegetable wax that has a hard, firm texture; it is used in cosmetics as a substantial thickening agent. carnauba wax. A natural, hard wax obtained from the leaves of palm trees. Used primarily as a thickening agent, but can also have film-forming and absorbent properties. carnitine. A naturally occurring amino acid, deficiencies of this small but essential component can result in muscle loss and a multitude of other problems. Research abounds for carnitine, especially acetyl-L-carnitine, which is considered to have more bioavailabilty in terms of its effect on aging and brain function. How this amino acid affects skin when applied topically is unknown. carnosic acid. Component of rosemary that is considered a potent antioxidant . carnosine. Composed of amino acids, it has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. There is some research showing it to have antiglycation properties. carnosol acid. See carnosic acid. carob fruit extract. May have antioxidant properties. carrageenan. Seaweed gum used in cosmetics as a thickening agent with water-binding properties.

carrot extract. Can have antioxidant properties, but whether it can have that effect when applied topically on skin is not known. carrot oil. Emollient plant oil similar to other nonfragrant plant oils. See natural moisturizing factors. Carthamus tinctorius oil. See safflower oil. carvone. Essential oil used as a flavoring agent and fragrance component in cosmetics. It can be a significant skin sensitizer or allergen . Carya illinoensis oil. See pecan oil. casein. Substance derived from milk protein that may have some antioxidant properties when applied topically, although the research for this is limited Cassia angustifolia seed. May have anti-inflammatory properties. castile soap. Uses olive oil instead of animal fat, but that can still be drying to skin. castor oil. Vegetable oil derived from the castor bean. It is used in cosmetics as an emollient, though its unique property is that when dry it forms a solid film that can have water-binding properties. It is rarely associated with skin irritation or allergic reactions but it can have a slightly sticky feel on skin. catalase. Enzyme that decomposes hydrogen peroxide into water and oxygen and that has significant antioxidant properties Caulerpa taxifolia extract. See algae. cedarwood. Fragrant plant extract. There is evidence that cedarwood oil is allergenic and can cause skin irritation. There is also a small amount of research showing it produces tumors on mouse skin. Cedrus atlantica bark extract. Fragrant oil that can be a skin irritant. celandine. Extract from the plant Chelidonium majus that has some amount of research showing it to have antiviral properties. There is no research showing it have benefit when applied topically. Celastrus paniculatus. Shrub native to India. It may have antioxidant properties, although the research for this has been on animal models or in vitro. cell-communicating ingredients. Medical journals refer to these as “cell signaling” substances—but “cell communicating” is more descriptive of what they do in relation to skin care. Cell-communicating ingredients, theoretically, have the ability to tell a skin cell to look, act, and behave better, more like a normal healthy skin cell would, or to stop other substances from telling the cell to behave badly or abnormally. They complement antioxidants because as helpful as antioxidants are, they can’t stop free-radical damage altogether, and they definitely can’t correct years of unprotected or poorly protected sun exposure. Damage of this nature causes abnormal skin cells to be produced. Instead of normal, round, even, and completely intact skin cells being regenerated, when damaged cells form and reproduce they are uneven, flat, and lack structural integrity. As a result of these deformities and inherent fragility, the cells behave poorly. Examples of cell-communicating ingredients include niacinamide, adenosine triphosphate, and retinol, as well as tretinoin, the active ingredient in prescription products such as Renova, Retin-A, and possibly peptides. cellulose. The primary fiber component of plants. Used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and to bind other ingredients together. Centaurea cyanus. See cornflower. Centella asiatica. Herb that may appear on labels as asiatic acid, hydrocotyl, or gotu kola. It has antibacterial, anti-psoriatic, and wound-healing properties. Centipeda cunninghami extract. Derived from an Australian plant commonly known as sneezeweed or old man's weed. It has been used by aborigines for burns, wounds, and skin infections. The only research

confirming the effectiveness of this plant extract as an anti-inflammatory, is from the company that owns the patent for its use. cephalin. A phospholipid. See fatty acid and natural moisturizing factors. cera alba. Beeswax; used as a thickening agent in cosmetics. cera microcristallina. See petrolatum. Ceramide 1. See ceramides. Ceramide 3. See ceramides. Ceramide 6-II. See ceramides. ceramides. Naturally occurring skin lipids (fats) that are major structural components of the skin's outer structure Ceratonia siliqua gum. See carob fruit extract. ceresin. Derived from clay, it is a waxy ingredient used as a thickening agent in cosmetics. It can be sensitizing for some skin types. Cereus grandiflorus extract. See cactus flower extract. ceteareth-20. Fatty alcohol that is used to thicken cosmetics and keep ingredients mixed together and stable. cetearyl alcohol. Fatty alcohol used as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and carrying agent for other ingredients. Can be derived naturally, as in coconut fatty alcohol, or synthetically. cetearyl ethylhexanoate. See cetearyl alcohol. cetyl acetate. A mixture of cetyl alcohol and acetic acid (see both) used as a skin-conditioning agent and emollient. cetyl alcohol. Fatty alcohol used as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and carrying agent for other ingredients. Can be derived naturally, as in coconut fatty alcohol, or synthetically. It is not an irritant and is not related to SD alcohol or ethyl alcohol. cetyl dimethicone. A silicone polymer that functions as skin conditioning agent. See silicone. cetyl esters. Synthetic wax used as a thickening agent and emollient. cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1- dimethicone. A silicone that functions as a skin-conditioning agent and emulsifier. See silicone. chamomile. Herb that has research showing it to have anti-irritant, soothing, and antioxidant properties chaparral extract. There is conflicting research about its efficacy as an anticancer agent, though it does contain a component that has antioxidant properties. charcoal. Baked wood that is mainly carbon. One teaspoonful of Activated Charcoal USP has a surface area of more than 10,000 square feet, which gives charcoal unique absorption properties. It also can disinfect wounds. chaste tree fruit extract. One research report says, "In a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial reported in the British Medical Journal (January 20, 2001), German researchers assigned 170 women diagnosed with PMS to a daily [oral] dose of Vitex agnus-castus (chaste tree) extract or to placebo for three menstrual cycles. The women assessed themselves before and after treatment on measures of irritability, mood, anger, headache, bloating, and breast fullness. Clinicians evaluated symptom severity and treatment effects. More than half of the women taking chaste tree fruit extract (popularly known as chasteberry)—

compared to slightly less than one-quarter of those on placebo—had a 50% or greater improvement in PMS symptoms (with the exception of bloating)" chaulmoogra oil. Once the treatment for leprosy worldwide due to its antimicrobial properties. It can be a skin irritant. chayote extract. See Sechium edule extract. chicory extract. Has antioxidant properties and may also have anti-inflammatory properties . China clay. See kaolin. chitosan. Derived from chitin, a polysaccharide found in the exoskeleton of shellfish such as shrimp, lobster, and crabs. It is used widely in pharmaceuticals as a base in formulations. There is also extensive research showing it can be effective in wound healing, as well as having antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. chloasma. See melasma. chlorella. See algae. chlorhexidine. Topical antiseptic, it can cause irritation. chlorophene. Used as a preservative in cosmetics. chlorphenesin. An alcohol used as a preservative in cosmetics. chocolate. See cocoa extract. cholecalciferol. Technical name for vitamin D. See vitamin D. cholesterol. A lipid (a type of human or animal fat) used in cosmetics as a stabilizer, an emollient, and a water-binding agent. See natural moisturizing factors. choline. Part of the vitamin B complex and a constituent of many other biologically important molecules, such as acetylcholine (a neurotransmitter) and lecithin. chondroitin sulfate. See glycosaminoglycans. Chondrus crispus. Form of red seaweed. See algae and carrageenan. chromium hydroxide green. An earth mineral used as a coloring agent/additive and permanently listed (as of 1977) by the FDA for use in cosmetic products. chromium oxide green. See chromium hydroxide green. chrysanthemum extract. Can have anti-inflammatory benefit for skin. Chrysanthemum parthenium extract. See feverfew extract. Cichorium intybus. Source of a plant extract with antioxidant properties Cimicifuga racemosa root extract. See black cohosh. Cinchona succirubra bark extract. In folk medicine, it is used topically as an astringent, bactericidal, and anesthetic effect. There is no research supporting any of its uses for skin. Cinnamomum camphora. See camphor. Cinnamomum. See cinnamon. cinnamon. Can have antimicrobial properties.

Cistus ladaniferus oil. See Labdanum oil. citric acid. Derived from citrus and used primarily to adjust the pH of products to prevent them from being too alkaline. citrulline. Amino acid involved in the formation of the amino acid, arginine. Citrulline has been identified in the surface layers of human skin. Citrullus colocynthis. Bitter apple; considered a skin irritant. Citrus amara. See orange blossom. Citrus aurantifolia. See lime. Citrus aurantium. See orange blossom. Citrus aurantium extract. Bitter orange extract. It can have antioxidant properties when eaten, however, used topically its methanol content makes it potentially irritating for skin. Citrus medica limonium. See lemon. clary oil. Used as fragrance, and can be a skin irritant or sensitizer. clay. See bentonite and kaolin. Clematis vitalba. Plant that may have antifungal properties. Clintonia borealis extract. There is no research showing this to have any benefit for skin. clove leaf. See clove oil. clove oil. Potent skin irritant and inflammatory when used repeatedly. clover blossom. Contains eugenol, which can be a skin sensitizer and cause photosensitivity. clover leaf oil. See clover blossom. cobalt gluconate. Element found in trace amounts in tissues of the body. While cobalt plays a vital role in the formation of some body systems, there is no evidence it serves any purpose topically on skin, though it may act as an antioxidant. cocamide DEA and MEA. See alkyloamides and diethanolamine. cocamidopropyl betaine. Considered one of the more gentle surfactants used in skin-care products. See surfactant. cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine. Mild surfactant. See surfactant. cocoa butter. Oil extracted from cocoa beans, used as an emollient and with properties similar to those of all nonfragrant plant oils. See natural moisturizing factors. cocoa extract. Can have potent antioxidant properties. cocoglycerides. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester. coconut. Has degreasing and cleansing properties, which is why detergent cleansing agents are frequently derived from coconut oil. See surfactant. coconut oil. Non-volatile plant kernel oil that has emollient properties for skin. Cocus nucifera. See coconut oil.

Codium tomentosum extract. See algae. coenzyme Q10. Only a handful of studies have shown coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10) to have any effect on wrinkles. However, neither of these studies was double-blind or placebo-controlled, so there is no way to tell whether other formulations could net the same results. There is also research showing that sun exposure depletes the presence of CoQ10 in the skin. This isn't surprising, because lots of the skin's components become diminished upon exposure to the sun. But whether or not taking CoQ10 supplements or applying them to skin stops or alters sun damage is not known. Coffea arabica extract. Coffea arabica is the coffee plant, and there is research showing coffee extract to have antioxidant properties. Cola acuminata seed extract. See kola nut. Coleus barbatus. Member of the mint family; can be a skin irritant. See counter-irritant. Coleus barbatus extract. See Plectranthus barbatus extract reviewed on page 6. collagen. A major component of skin that gives it structure. Sun damage causes collagen in skin to deteriorate. Collagen is derived from animal sources but plant derivatives that act like collagen (pseudocollagen) are also used. In any form, collagen is a good water-binding agent. Collagen in cosmetics, regardless of the source, has never been shown to have a direct effect on producing or building collagen in skin. collagen amino acid. Amino acids hydrolyzed from collagen. These have good water-binding properties for skin. See amino acid and natural moisturizing factors. colloidal oatmeal. See oatmeal. colloidal silver. Refers to ground-up silver suspended in solution. See silver. colostrum. The clear/cloudy "pre-milk" that female mammals secrete prior to producing milk. Colostrum contains immunoglobulins (disease resistance factors). While there is a small body of evidence indicating that adult consumption of colostrum may have disease-fighting potential, this is hardly substantiated, and there is no known benefit when colostrum is applied topically to skin. The only study that does exist showed colostrum to have no wound-healing function on skin. colostrum. The thick, yellowish fluid secreted by the mammary glands prior to and during the first few days after birth, before actual milk is produced by the breast. Colostrum is a highly nutritive substance, loaded with proteins, immune-building substances, and growth factors. Colostrum’s primary purpose is to supply antibodies and growth factors to help newborns fight viruses and bacteria and to jump-start the growth of muscle, bone, and tissue. There is some research showing it to have benefit when applied topically for wound healing but it is minor at best and some of the research showed it was not helpful. Nonetheless, wrinkles and aging skin is not equivalent to a wound. The source of colostrum in supplements and skin-care products is bovine. coltsfoot. According to The PDR Family Guide to Natural Medicines & Healing Therapies and a German Commission E Monograph, coltsfoot is potentially carcinogenic due to its pyrrolizidine alkaloid content and is not recommended for repeated use on skin. comfrey extract. Several studies have shown that comfrey extract can have carcinogenic or toxic properties when taken orally. Whether those properties translate to topical application of the extract is unknown, but its alkaloid content makes it a potential skin irritant. Commiphora myrrha extract. See myrrh. Commiphora wightii extract. Has been shown to have cytotoxic components that may have a toxic effect on skin cells. coneflower. See echinacea. Conium maculatum. Also known as poison hemlock. When taken orally all parts of hemlock, including

seeds, flowers, and fruits, are considered toxic and poisonous. Death has resulted after ingestion of hemlock. Prompt medical attention is advised after ingestion of hemlock. There is no research showing it to have any effect when applied topically on skin. Copaifera officinalis. See balsam. copper gluconate. Copper is an important trace element for human nutrition. The body needs copper to absorb and utilize iron, and copper is also a component of the powerful antioxidant enzyme superoxide dismutase. Copper supplements have been shown to increase superoxide dismutase levels in humans (Source: Healthnotes Review of Complementary and Integrative Medicine, www.healthnotes.com). The synthesis of collagen and elastin is in part related to the presence of copper in the body, and copper is also important for many other processes. For example, there is research showing that copper is effective for wound healing. However, wound healing is the result of many biophysical processes that have nothing to do with wrinkling. See superoxide dismutase. copper peptides. See copper gluconate. copper sulfate. Chemical effective for topical wound healing. However, wound healing is the result of many biophysical processes that have nothing to do with wrinkling. Corallina officinalis extract. See algae. coriander. Herb and spice plant, the source of a fragrant component; it can be a potential skin irritant. It may also have some antibacterial and antifungal properties, but these properties have not been established for topical use on skin. corn glycerides. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester. corn oil. Emollient oil with properties similar to those of other nonfragrant plant oils. cornflower. Can have anti-inflammatory properties. cornmint. Also known as wild mint; it can be a skin irritant. See counter-irritant. cornstarch. Starch obtained from corn and sometimes used as an absorbent in cosmetics instead of talc. However, when cornstarch becomes moist, it can promote fungal and bacterial growth. Cornus extract. See dogwood. corticosteroids. See hydrocortisone. Corylus americana. See hazelnut oil. Corylus avellana. See hazelnut oil. costus root. Has anti-inflammatory properties (Source: European Journal of Pharmacology, June 2000, pages 399–407), but there is research showing that it can also inhibit the immune response. coumarin. Organic compound found in plants and derived from the amino acid phenylalanine. It creates the fragrance found in fresh-mowed hay. More than 300 coumarins have been identified from natural sources, especially green plants. These varying substances have disparate pharmacological, biochemical, and therapeutic applications. However, simple coumarins are potent antioxidants. counter-irritant. Ingredients such as menthol, peppermint, camphor, and mint are considered counterirritants Counter-irritants are used to induce local inflammation for the purpose of relieving inflammation in deeper or adjacent tissues. In other words, they substitute one kind of inflammation for another, which is never good for skin. Irritation or inflammation, no matter what causes it or how it happens, impairs the skin's immune and healing response. And although your skin may not show it, or doesn't react in an irritated fashion, if you apply irritants to your skin the damage is still taking place and is ongoing, so it adds up over time. Cranberry Seed Extract. The extract of the cranberry fruit. Natural components known as

proanthocyanidins are responsible for this extract’s antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Cranberry Seed Oil. Derived from the seed of this red berry, the oil (which is not red) has potent antioxidant ability due to it being a rich source of polyphenols.See antioxidant. Crataegus monogina extract. See hawthorn extract. Crithmum maritimum. Extract of algae that has weak antioxidant properties. cucumber extract. Claims of cucumber having anti-inflammatory or soothing properties are anecdotal, as there is no research supporting this contention. Cucumis sativus extract. See cucumber extract. Curcuma longa root. See turmeric. curcumin. Potent antioxidant that can be effective in wound healing. See turmeric. Cyamopsis tetragonoloba. guar. cyanocobalamin. See vitamin B12. Cyanopsis tetragonalba. Form of guar gum. See guar gum. Cyanotis arachnoidea extract. There is no research showing this to have any benefit for skin. Cyatheaceae extract. Derived from a neotropic plant; an extract that has no research showing it to have benefit for skin. cyclamen aldehyde. Synthetic fragrant component in products; it can be a skin irritant. cyclohexasiloxane. See silicone. cyclomethicone. Silicone with a drier finish than dimethicone. See silicone.

D D&C. According to the FDA, D&C is an identification that indicates a coloring agent has been approved as safe in drug and cosmetics products, but not in food. daisy flower extract. There is no research showing this extract to be beneficial for skin. dandelion extract. Can be a potent allergen. Daucus carota. Also known as wild carrot. It can have antioxidant properties, but topically it can cause dermatitis. DEA. See diethanolamine. DEA Oleth-10 Phosphate. Used as an emulsifying agent, which are a group of ingredients essential to most cosmetic formulations because they have the ability to keep unlike ingredients (a prime example is oil and water) together smoothly. dead nettle extract. See white nettle. Dead Sea minerals. Several studies demonstrate that Dead Sea minerals can have a positive effect on psoriatic skin. Psoriasis is a skin condition characterized by rapidly dividing, overactive skin cells. No one is quite sure how the Dead Sea minerals and salts affect psoriasis. One of the more popular theories regarding their benefit is that the mineral content of the water slows down the out-of-control cell division. Some of the research indicates that the benefit is cumulative and that the results can last for up to five months. However there is no research showing that these minerals have any effect on wrinkles, dry skin, or acne. decyl glucoside. Used as a gentle detergent cleansing agent. See surfactant.

deer antler velvet. The soft epidermis that covers the hard inner structure of the growing bone and cartilage that will become deer antlers. Deer antler velvet is marketed as a remedy for a wide range of disorders and health benefits. However, there is a lack of information in the scientific literature to support these claims, and there is also a lack of information on potential toxicity. Areas of potential concern include drug residues, possible deleterious androgenic effects on fetuses and neonates, and allergic reactions. Further, there is concern about the humane treatment of the animals when the substance is collected. dehydroepiandrosterone. See DHEA. deionized/demineralized water. Filtered water used in cosmetics. All water used in cosmetic formulations goes through this process to remove components that could interfere with a product's stability and performance. Delesseria sanguinea extract. See algae. denatured alcohol. See alcohol. deodorant soap. Soap that contains ingredients to reduce the bacteria that cause body odor. The ingredients are too harsh for the delicate skin of the face and they don't stay on the skin long enough to have any real disinfecting effect. deoxyribonucleic acid. See DNA. detergent cleansing agent. See surfactant. deuterium oxide. See heavy water. dextran. A polysaccharide that has water-binding properties for skin. See also mucopolysaccharide. dextrin. A carbohydrate that is classified as a polysaccharide. It is used as an adhesive when mixed with water. For skin it can have water-binding properties. DHA. See dihydroxyacetone. DHEA. Also called prasterone and dehydroepiandrosterone, it is a naturally occurring prohormone that converts in the body to primarily androgens (male hormones), and to a lesser degree estrogens. It is controversial as an oral supplement because long-term use has been associated with women developing secondary masculine traits, liver damage, disrupted menstrual cycles, and defects in fetuses. More superficial risks include hair loss, acne, and weight gain. Topically, it is possible that DHEA can increase collagen production and prevent collagen destruction by decreasing matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) but the research about this is extremely limited and the studies that do exist were only done on a handful of people. diatomaceous earth. Light-colored porous rock composed of skeletons of minute sea creatures called diatoms, used typically as an abrasive material in scrub products. diazolidinyl urea. Formaldehyde-releasing preservative. dibutyl phthalate. Very common ingredient in almost every nail polish and synthetic fragrance being sold. It is used as a plasticizer and is a key component in giving nail polish its unique properties. The report noted measurable levels of phthalate were found in the urine of the participants in the study. However, the CDC also stated that "Finding a measurable amount of one or more phthalate metabolites in urine does not mean that the level of one or more phthalates causes an adverse health effect. Whether phthalates at the levels of metabolites reported here are a cause for health concern is not yet known; more research is needed". In animal tests, dibutyl phthalate has been shown to produce detrimental effects.. DBP damages the testes, prostate gland, epididymus, penis, and seminal vesicles. These effects persist throughout the animal's life." At this time, there is no conslusive or agreed-upon research pointing to phthalates being a problem for humans. diethanolamine. A colorless liquid used as a solvent and pH adjuster. diethylhexyl malate. An emollient and skin conditioning agent derived from and the solvent ethyl

hexanediol. See malic acid. Digenea simplex extract. See algae. dihydroxyacetone. Ingredient present in all self-tanners that affects the color of skin. It reacts with amino acids found in the top layers of skin to create a shade of brown; the effect takes place within two to six hours and it can build color depth with every reapplication. diisopropyl adipate. Used as a film-forming agent, emollient, and skin conditioning agent. diisostearoyl trimethylolpropane siloxy silicate. A skin conditioning agent in the silicone family. See silicone. dimethicone. See silicone. dimethicone copolyol. See silicone. Dimethicone Crosspolymer. A silicone derivative used as a stabilizing or suspending agent or as a thickener. See silicone. dimethicone fluoroalcohol dilinoleic acid. A film-forming agent that has water-binding properties due to its linoleic acid component. dimethiconol. See silicone. dimethyl capramide. Functions as a stabilizer and solvent. dimethyl sulfoxide. See DMSO. dimethylaminoethanol (DMAE). What little research there is about DMAE relates to its effect as an oral supplement, and the findings are mixed. DMAE, known chemically as 2-dimethyl-amino-ethanol, has been available in Europe under the product name Deanol for over 30 years. As an oral supplement it is popularly known for improving mental alertness, much like Ginkgo biloba and coenzyme Q10. However, the research about DMAE does not show the same positive results found with the other two supplements. Because DMAE is chemically similar to choline, DMAE is thought to stimulate production of acetylcholine. And because acetylcholine is a brain neurotransmitter, it's easy to see how it could be associated with brain function. However, only a handful of studies have looked at DMAE for that purpose and they have not been conclusive in the least, while some have shown that DMAE may be problematic or not very effective Dioscorea villosa extract. See wild yam extract. dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate/hexacaprate. A mixture of fatty acids used as an emollient and thickening agent. Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate. See anti-irritant and licorice extract. Di-PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Adipate. A derivative of myristyl alcohol (a fatty alcohol) and adipic acid (a buffering and neutralizing ingredient). It is used as skin-conditioning agent and solvent. Dipsacus sylvestris extract. There is no research showing this to have benefit for skin dismutin. Trade name for superoxide dismutase. See superoxide dismutase. disodium ascorbyl sulfate. Form of vitamin C, although there is no research showing it to have any benefit on skin. disodium cocoamphodiacetate. Mild detergent cleansing agent. See surfactant. disodium diglyceryl phosphate. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester. disodium EDTA. See EDTA.

disodium glyceryl phosphate. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester. disodium lauraminopropionate. Mild surfactant. See surfactant. Disodium rutinyl disulfate. No research shows this antioxidant as having any impact on cellulite. Disteardimonium Hectorite. Used as a suspending agent, often with pigments. DMAE. See dimethylaminoethanol. DMDM hydantoin. Formaldehyde-releasing preservative. See formaldehyde-releasing preservative. DMSO. Dimethyl sulfoxide; it's an intriguing substance because of its contradictory benefits and problems. Topically, it is a potent skin irritant and sensitizer and it can cause burning, blistering, drying, and scaling skin. Yet it easily penetrates the skin and facilitates topical penetration of other ingredients. DMSO also has some evidence of having antioxidant properties and can prevent skin from freezing. Given these divergent properties and the well-established risk of skin irritation, it is not recommended to have this as a primary ingredient in skin-care products DNA. Abbreviation for deoxyribonucleic acid. DNA is found in all cells. It is the primary component of genes—and genes are the way cells transmit hereditary characteristics. DNA is the basis for all genetic structure; its components include adenine (A), guanine (G), thymine (T), and cytosine (C). It is the mapping of these substances that makes up the genetic code of all human traits and cellular functions. DNA is the genetic material that is required for all cellular division and growth. DNA in a skin-care product is useless, as it cannot in and of itself affect a cell's genetic elements. The production of DNA is a complex system within the cell that requires a multitude of proteins and enzymes in order to have an effect on the body's genetic material. It is also doubtful you would want to ever put anything on your skin that could impact genetic material, particularly not via a cosmetic that has no safety or efficacy regulations.

E Ecamsule. See Mexoryl SX. echinacea. There are several types of echinacea plants but only Echinacea purpurea and Echinacea pallida have been shown to have effectiveness. These may have antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties on skin. Echium lycopsis extract. Has a small amount of research showing it to have antibacterial properties. Echium lycopsis oil. Emollient oil that also has potent antioxidant properties. EDTA. Abbreviation for ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid. It is a stabilizer used in cosmetics to prevent ingredients in a given formula from binding with trace elements (particularly minerals) that can exist in water and other ingredients to cause unwanted product changes such as texture, odor, and consistency problems. The technical term for this function is a chelating agent. egg yolk. Egg yolk is mostly water and lipids (fats), especially cholesterol, which makes it a good emollient and water-binding agent for skin. eicosapentaenioc acid. A fatty acid derived from salmon oil; it is a good emollient for skin. See fatty acid. Elaeis guineensis. See palm oil. elastin. Major component of skin that gives it flexibility. Sun damage causes elastin in skin to deteriorate. Elastin can be derived from both plant and animal sources and is used in cosmetics as a good water-binding agent. Elastin in cosmetics has never been shown to affect the elastin in skin or have any other benefit, though it most likely functions as a water-binding agent. elderberry. Has potent antioxidant properties. elecampane. Can be very irritating to the skin and can trigger allergic reactions. Emblica officinalis. See Indian gooseberry.

emollient. Supple, waxlike, lubricating, thickening agents that prevent water loss and have a softening and soothing effect on the skin. They can be natural, like plant oils; manufactured, like silicones; or processed from a natural substance, like mineral oil. The assortment of technical-sounding names for all these ingredients is nothing less than astounding. There are more of them than you can imagine. They range from cetearyl alcohol to isopropyl myristate, triglycerides, myristic acid, palmitic acid, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, glyceryl linoleate, cyclomethicone, dimethicone, hexyl laurate, isohexadecane, methyl glucose sesquioleate, decyl oleate, stearic acid, octyldodecanol, and thousands more. There are also more understandable or at least familiar "natural" versions of emollients, such as lanolin, hydrogenated plant oils, shea butter, and cocoa butter. emu oil. The emu is a large, flightless bird indigenous to Australia, and emu oil has become an important component of the Australian economy. As a result there is research from that part of the world showing it to be a good emollient that can help heal skin. But there is no research showing it to have antiaging or antiwrinkling effects. Emu oil in comparison to mineral oil was found overall to be more cosmetically acceptable and had better skin penetration/permeability. Furthermore it appears that Emu oil in comparison to mineral oil has better moisturizing properties, superior texture, and lower incidence of comedogenicity, but probably because of the small sample size [number of people tested] these differences were not found to be statistically significant. Neither of the oils were found to be irritating to the skin." That's good, but it's hardly a reason to run out and by a product containing emu oil.. English ivy extract. Can be a skin irritant due to its stimulant and astringent (skin-constricting) properties (Source: Natural Medicines Comprehensive Database, www.naturaldatabase.com). Ensulizole. A sunscreen agent, formerly known as phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid. Ensulizole is the new established name that must be used on sunscreen labels. It is primarily a UVB protecting sunscreen agent providing only minimal UVA protection. Ensulizole’s range is 290 to 340 nanometers whereas the UVA range is 320 to 400 nanometers. For complete UVA protection, this ingredient (as well as many other UVB protecting sunscreen ingredients) must be paired with avobenzone (also called Parsol 1789 and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane), titanium dioxide, or zinc oxide; outside of the U.S. it can also be paired with Tinosorb or Mexoryl SX (also called ecamsule). In July 2006, Mexoryl SX received FDA approval for use in a single sunscreen, La Roche Posay’s Anthelios SX SPF 15. Because ensulizole is water-soluble, it has the unique characteristic of feeling lighter on skin. As such, it is often used in sunscreen lotions or moisturizers whose esthetic goal is a non-greasy finish. Enteromorpha compressa extract. Extract from a form of green algae. See algae. enzymes. A vast group of protein molecules produced by all living things to affect chemical and biological reactions whether it is photosynthesis, helping cells communicate, or inhibiting free-radical damage. As they are used in skin-care products, enzymes facilitate exfoliation, to help overall biological processes in skin that have slowed down because of age or sun damage, and to inhibit free-radical damage. Enzymes accelerate chemical reactions in a cell that would proceed minimally or not at all if the enzymes weren't present. Most enzymes are finicky about how they interact. Sometimes it takes several enzymes to produce one chemical reaction, and they are influenced by temperature and pH. Some enzymes depend on the presence of smaller enzymes, called coenzymes, in order to function or a specific body temperature must be in place. It would take an exceptionally complicated process to stimulate enzyme activity in the skin. Enzymes are divided into six main categories including oxidoreductases, transferases, hydrolases, lyases, isomerases, and ligases. The names of most individual enzymes end in –ase. See bromelain, papain, and oxidoreductases. Ephedra sinica extract. Extract from a Chinese herb also known as Ma huang; it has a high tannin and volatile oil content and toxic properties. epidermal growth factor (EGF). Stimulates cell division of m.There is also research showing that its effect is no different then placebo and may not be effective. It can have anti-inflammatory properties when applied to skin, though it can also promote tumor growth. Epilobium angustifolium extract. Derived from a plant commonly known as fireweed or willow herb. Can have antimicrobial and anti-irritant properties for skin. Equisetum arvense. See horsetail extract.

Equisetum hiemale extract. See horsetail extract. ergocalciferol. Technical name for vitamin D. See vitamin D. ergothioneine. Component of animal tissue that has potent antioxidant properties. Eriobotrya japonica. See loquat extract. erucic acid. Fatty acid. See fatty acid. erythritol. Naturally occurring sugar found in plants and animals. Like all sugars, it has water-binding properties. erythropoietin (Epo). Stimulates the growth of cells that carry oxygen throughout the body. See human growth factor. erythrulose. Substance chemically similar to the self-tanning agent dihydroxyacetone. Depending on your skin color, there can be a difference in the color effect with erythrulose. However, dihydroxyacetone completely changes the color of skin within two to six hours, while erythrulose needs about two to three days for the skin to show a color change. escin. Derived from horse chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum), this ingredient has been prescribed as an oral supplement to reduce some symptoms of chronic vein insufficiency, such as varicose veins, pain, tiredness, tension, swelling in the legs, itching, and edema. However, because horse chestnut contains significant amounts of the toxin esculin, it can be lethal and other experts recommend not using it. When applied topically, however, there is research showing that a gel containing 2% escin can improve circulation. Results from another study showed a reduction in inflammation in sport-injury when escin was combined with heparin (a mucopolysaccharide used as an anti-clotting medication), and a form of salicylic acid (diethylammonium salicylate). Escin is also a potent antioxidant. As a skin-care ingredient escin clearly has a place, but as for improving cellulite that’s another story. While it may seem logical that blood flow and cellulite are related the research just isn’t there to support the notion, or your thighs. Plus, cellulite products contain far less of this ingredient than the amount used in the studies. esculin. Component of horse chestnut, it is considered a toxin and not recommended for skin. essential oils. See volatile oil. Ester-C. Trade name for a combination form of vitamin C that contains mainly calcium ascorbate, but in addition contains small amounts of the vitamin C metabolites dehydroascorbic acid (oxidized ascorbic acid), calcium threonate, and trace levels of xylonate and lyxonate. In their literature, the manufacturers state that the metabolites, especially threonate, increase the bioavailability of the vitamin C in this product, and that they have performed a study in humans demonstrating the increased bioavailability of vitamin C in Ester-C. This study has not been published in a peer-reviewed journal. A small published study of vitamin C bioavailability in eight women and one man found no difference between Ester-C and commercially available ascorbic acid tablets with respect to the absorption and excretion of vitamin C. There are studies showing Ester-C to have no differences when compared to ascorbic acid. estradiol. One of the three main forms of estrogen produced by the body; the other two are estrone and estriol. Estradiol is the most physiologically active form of estrogen. Many hormone replacement therapy (HRT) and birth control prescription drugs contain estradiol. Decreased production of estrogen by the ovaries can lead to symptoms such as hot flashes, night sweats, vaginal dryness, urinary tract infections, depression, and irritability. With a physician's prescription, licensed pharmacists may compound a combination of natural estrogens. Whether or not natural estrogens are safe has not been well-researched. Even though HRT can prevent associated problems with loss of estrogen in perimenopausal and menopausal women, it is no longer being prescribed without caution because of studies showing there to be an increased the risk of breast cancer, heart attacks, strokes, gallbladder disease and blood clots. Topically, according to the FDA, "The estrogen content of an OTC product, be it a drug or a drug as well as cosmetic, may not exceed 10,000 IU per ounce, and users must be directed to limit the amount of product applied daily so that no more than 20,000 IU of estrogen or equivalent be used per month. Some estrogencontaining products have been claiming to prevent or reduce wrinkles, treat seborrhea, or stimulate hair

growth. The Advisory Review Panel on OTC Miscellaneous External Drug Products has concluded that there are inadequate data to establish the safety of these products and that they are ineffective and may therefore be misbranded, even if marketed as cosmetics without making medicinal claims…, the FDA accepted this panel's recommendation and determined that all topically-applied hormone containing drug products for OTC human use are not generally recognized as safe and effective and are misbranded." ethanol. See alcohol. ethoxydiglycol. See solvent. ethyl acetate. Compound made from acetic acid and ethyl alcohol, used as a solvent in nail polish and nailpolish removers. May irritate skin. ethyl alcohol. See alcohol. ethyl macadamiate. A mixture of fatty acids from macadamia nut oil. See fatty acid and macadamia nut oil. ethyl vanillin. A flavoring agent derived from vanilla. It has antioxidant properties. ethylene glycol. See propylene glycol. ethylhexyl stearate. See stearic acid. ethylparaben. See parabens. etidronic acid. See alcohol. eucalyptus extract. Can have antibacterial, antifungal, and antiviral properties on the skin. It can also be a skin irritant, particularly on abraded skin. eucalyptus oil. See eucalyptus extract. Eugenia aromatica. See clove oil. Eugenia caryophyllus. See clove oil. eugenol. See clove oil and methyleugenol. Euglena gracilis. See algae. Eupatorium ayapana extract. May have antibacterial and antifungal properties. Euphrasia officinalis. See eyebright. evening primrose oil. Can have anti-inflammatory and emollient benefits for skin. However, whether or not evening primrose oil can mitigate certain symptoms of premenstrual syndrome (PMS) is unknown. "Trials of evening primrose oil have also had conflicting results; the two most rigorous studies showed no evidence of benefit". ex vivo. Describes a biological process or reaction taking place outside of a person or animal; it involves the extraction of cells from an animal or person and then testing these in a laboratory setting. Exfoliants. Some cellulite creams have included glycolic or lactic acid (AHAs) or scrubs in an effort to somehow exfoliate away bumpy skin texture on the thighs. Theoretically, AHAs come the closest to having the potential for reducing the appearance of cellulite. If cellulite is a problem with skin structure, applying ingredients that help to improve it, should make a difference. There are a number of studies demonstrating the effectiveness of AHAs for stimulating collagen synthesis and improving the overall structure of skin. What is important to recognize is that if AHAs can help, you don’t need something labeled as a “cellulite cream.” Any well-formulated AHA gel, lotion, or cream will work. In terms of scrubs, there is absolutely no research showing these have any impact on cellulite.

ext. D&C. A type of coloring agent. According to the FDA, when Ext. D&C is followed by a color, it means the color is certified as safe for use only in drugs and cosmetics to be used externally, but not around the eyes or mouth. It is not safe for foods. eyebright. A plant; however, while the name sounds like it would be beneficial for the eye area, there are no studies demonstrating it to have any benefit for the eye area or skin. The information about this plant's effect on the skin or the eye is strictly anecdotal

F faex. See yeast. Fagus sylvatica extract. See yeast. farnesol. An extract of plants that is used in cosmetics primarily for fragrance. A few animal studies and some in vitro research have investigated farnesol's antibacterial properties, and it may also have some antioxidant properties , but there is no research showing it to have benefit on skin. farnesyl acetate. See farnesol. fatty acid. Substances typically found in plant and animal lipids (fat). Fatty acids include compounds such as glycerides, sterols, and phospholipids. They are used in cosmetics as emollients, thickening agents, and, when mixed with glycerin, cleansing agents. Fatty acids are natural components of skin and are components of a complex mixture that makes up the outermost layer protecting the body against oxidative damage. Fatty acids can help supplement the skin's intercellular matrix. See natural moisturizing factors. fatty alcohols. Made from fatty acids; in cosmetics these are thickening agents and emollients. See fatty acid. FD&C. A type of coloring agent. According to the FDA, when FD&C is followed by a color, the color is certified as safe for use in food, drugs, and cosmetics. fennel extract. Derived from the fennel plant; it can be a skin irritant. fennel oil. A volatile, fragrant oil that can cause skin irritation and sensitivity. See fennel extract. fennel seed extract. Can have antioxidant properties, but on skin it can be a skin irritant and photosensitizer. fenugreek. A spice plant; some research shows it to have antioxidant properties when taken orally. Whether it has similar properties when applied topically is unknown. ferric ammonium ferrocyanide. The inorganic salt of ferric ferrocyanide. See ferric ferrocyanide. ferric ferrocyanide. Also known as Iron Blue. A coloring agent for use in cosmetic products, including those designed for use around the eye. Permanently listed (since 1978) by the FDA as safe though the EPA considers it toxic when found in water systems. Ferula galbaniflua. See galbanum. feverfew extract. Can be very irritating to the skin and can trigger allergic reactions. When taken orally it has been shown to relieve migraines and have anti-inflammatory properties. fibroblast growth factor (FGF). Within the body, stimulates growth of the nervous system and bone formation. See human growth factor. fibronectin. A type of protein found in the skin's intercellular matrix similar to collagen and elastin. Fibronectin's deterioration from sun damage and other factors is an element in skin aging and wrinkling. As is true for all proteins, regardless of their origin, it is probably a good water-binding agent for skin. However, applying fibronectin topically on skin doesn't help reinforce or rebuild the fibronectin in your skin. Filipendula rubra. See meadowsweet. film-forming agent. A large group of ingredients that are typically found in hair-care products but are also

widely used in skin-care products, particularly moisturizers. These range from PVP to acrylates, acrylamides, and copolymers. When applied they leave a pliable, cohesive, and continuous covering over the hair or skin. This film produces excellent water-binding properties and leaves a smooth feel on skin. Film-forming agents can be skin sensitizers for some individuals. fir needle oil. Volatile, fragrant oil that can cause skin irritation and sensitivity. fireweed. From the Epilobium angustifolium plant; also known as willow herb. See Epilobium angustifolium extract. fish cartilage extract. May have water-binding properties, but there is no research showing this to have any benefit for skin. flavonoid. See bioflavonoid. flax. Plant source of linen and edible seeds. Seeds and seed oil have antioxidant properties. Seeds are also a source of linolenic acid. See linolenic acid. flaxseed oil. From seeds of the flax plant; a source of fatty acids. See flax. floralozone. One of a number of synthetic fragrant components. Foeniculum vulgare extract. See fennel seed extract. folic acid. Part of the B-vitamin complex; when taken orally, it is considered a good antioxidant. That benefit has not been demonstrated when it is applied topically on skin. Fomes officinalis. The scientific name for a fungus (mushroom) commonly called brown trunk rot. There is no research showing this to have benefit for skin. formaldehyde-releasing preservative. A common type of preservative found in cosmetics. However, there is no higher level of skin reaction to formaldehyde-releasing preservatives than to other preservatives. In fact, there is a far greater risk to skin from a product without preservatives, owing to the contamination and unchecked growth of bacteria, fungus, and mold that can result. However, there is concern that when formaldehyde-releasing preservatives are present in a formulation with amines, such as triethanolamine (TEA), diethanolamine (DEA), or monoethanolamine (MEA), that nitrosamines can then be formed, because nitrosamines are carcinogenic substances that can potentially penetrate skin. Whether or not that poses a health risk of any kind has not been established. See preservatives. fragrance. One or a blend of either volatile and/or fragrant plant oils (or synthetically derived oils) that impart aroma and odor to products. These are often skin irritants. frangipani. See Plumeria alba flower extract. Frangula alnus extract. Extract from the Alder Buckthorn or Dogweed tree. Used orally as a laxative. There is no research showing this extract to have any benefit for skin. frankincense extract. Fragrant component used in skin-care products; it can be a skin irritant. There is no research showing frankincense to have any benefit for skin. free-radical damage. It is now medically recognized that degenerative skin conditions, such as wrinkles and skin discolorations, are caused primarily by free-radical damage. The primary causes of free-radical damage are air and sunlight, but it can also be triggered by cigarette smoke, herbicides, pesticides, pollution, and solvents. Antioxidants are a way to reduce and potentially neutralize the rampage of free-radical damage. Free-radical damage takes place on an atomic level. Molecules are made of atoms, and a single atom is made up of protons, neutrons, and electrons. Electrons are always found in pairs. However, when oxygen molecules are involved in a chemical reaction, they can lose one of their electrons. This oxygen molecule that now has only one electron is called a free radical. With only one electron the oxygen molecule must quickly find another electron, and it does this by taking the electron from another molecule. When that molecule in turn loses one of its electrons, it too must seek out another, in a continuing reaction. Molecules attempting to repair themselves in this way trigger a cascading event called "free-radical damage." The

action of free-radical damage takes place in a fraction of a second. Antioxidants are substances that prevent oxidative damage from being triggered. See antioxidant. fructose. Often called fruit sugar; a type of sugar composed of glucose. It has water-binding properties for skin. See water-binding agent. fruit acid. See sugarcane extract. Fu ling. See Poria cocos extract. Fucus serratus extract. See algae. Fucus vesiculosus extract. See bladderwrack extract. fuller's earth. Mineral substance that is similar to kaolin (a clay). Composed mainly of alumina, silica, iron oxides, lime, magnesia, and water, it is used as an absorbent and thickening agent in cosmetics.

G GABA. GABA (gamma aminobutyric acid/ gamma amino-butyric acid) is an amino acid synthesized in the brain that acts as a neurotransmitter inhibitor and is associated with reducing the incidences of seizures and depression. Cosmetic companies use GABA in products claiming to relax muscles topically, thus sparing consumers from going through Botox® injections. However, GABA has not been proven to relax muscles and reduce the appearance of wrinkles or expression lines when applied topically. Cosmetic companies are hoping consumers will associate the topical application of products containing GABA with its internal function of controlling the manner in which nerve impulses fire. There is no substantiated research proving GABA works in this manner when applied topically, and if it did, it would be cause for alarm. If GABA worked as stated and you applied it to your entire face, what’s to stop it from affecting the muscles around your mouth, jaw, or neck? If it really relaxed muscles upon application, consumers would see more skin sagging, not to mention problems controlling the (relaxed) muscles in your fingers (assuming they come in contact with the product). Lastly, the whole nonsense of using GABA in cosmetic products is refuted by the fact that GABA does not work alone to exert its (internal) effect on nerves. It requires many other substances (substances that are not present in the products containing GABA) in order for it to prevent nerves from being triggered and causing muscles to relax. galactoarabinan. Polysaccharide extracted from the western larch tree. See mucopolysaccharide. galbanum. Fragrant substance that, because of its resin and volatile oil content, can be extremely irritating and sensitizing on abraded skin. There is no research showing it to have any benefit on skin. gamma linolenic acid. Also known as GLA, a fatty acid used in cosmetics as an emollient, antioxidant, and cell regulator. GLA is considered to promote healthy skin growth and is an anti-inflammatory agent. GLA is found in black currant oil or seeds, evening primrose oil, and borage oil. However, there is no research showing GLA to be effective in the treatment of wrinkles. When taken orally, GLA has been shown to have some anticancer properties, but there is no research showing that effect translates to skin. See fatty acid. Gan jiang. See ginger extract. Ganoderma lucidum extract. Mushroom stem extract. There is a good deal of animal and in vitro studies showing this extract to be effective when taken orally as possibly having antitumor, immune modulating, anticoagulant, cholesterol lowering, antiviral, and antibacterial properties. However, there is no research showing it to be effective when used topically on skin though it does have antioxidant properties. Gaultheria shallon. May have antioxidant activity for skin. gelatin. Protein obtained from plants or animals and used in cosmetics as a thickening agent. Gellidiela acerosa extract. Derived from a type of algae. See algae. gentian violet extract. Has anti-irritant and antibacterial properties. geranium extract. Can have potent antioxidant properties.

geranium oil. Fragrant oil that can has antimicrobial properties but can also be a skin sensitizer or irritant. Geranium pretense. Geranium plant. See geranium extract and geranium oil. Germaben II. Trade name for diazolidinyl urea. See diazolidinyl urea. germanium. According to the FDA there is import ban aimed at germanium, a trace element used in the production of computer chips, which sometimes is identified as vitamin O. The FDA noted that consumption of germanium has caused kidney injury and death when used chronically by humans, even at dosages suggested on product labels. It has banned germanium imports intended for human consumption on the grounds that these products are either poisonous and deleterious to health or unapproved new drugs. However, there is research showing it to have anti-inflammatory properties when taken as a drug. There is no research showing it to have any benefit topically on skin. Gigartina stellata extract. Extracted from algae. There is no research showing this to have special properties for skin, though it may have water-binding benefits. See algae. ginger extract. From a plant in the zingiberfamily that has research showing it to have anti-inflammatory and anti-carcinogenic activity when taken orally. However, topically it can be a skin irritant. ginger oil. See ginger extract. Ginkgo biloba. Tree with leaves having components that are effective as an anti-inflammatory and an aid in collagen production; ginkgo also has antioxidant properties. Ginkgo biloba leaf extract. Research shows this potent antioxidant helps improve blood flow. Whether or not blood flow changes anything about cellulite is unknown. Ginkgo biloba leaf extract. Research shows this potent antioxidant helps improve blood flow. Whether or not blood flow changes anything about cellulite is unknown. ginseng. From a family of herbs (Araliaceae) native to Asia. A small number of studies carried out on animals have shown that ginseng may have antitumor and anticancer properties, though there is also research showing that it can stimulate the growth of breast cancer cells. There is no evidence showing any benefit or risk when applied topically. GLA. See gamma linolenic acid. glabridin. Main ingredient in licorice extract. It has anti-inflammatory properties and there is research showing it to be effective in reducing skin discolorations. gluconolactone. See polyhydroxy acid. glucosamine hydrochloride. When taken orally, it can have anti-inflammatory properties, but there is no research showing the same effect for skin when it is applied topically. glucosamine sulfate. Needed by the body to form glycosaminoglycans such as hyaluronic acid, which is major constituent of skin tissue as well as joint cartilage. There is no research demonstrating this to be effective topically on skin in generating hyaluronic acid; most likely it functions as a water-binding agent. glucose. Monosaccharide that has water-binding properties for skin. See mucopolysaccharide and waterbinding agent. glucose oxidase. Enzyme that has antibacterial and water-binding properties when used on skin. glucose tyrosinate. See tyrosine. glutamic acid. Amino acid derived from wheat gluten. It can have water-binding properties for skin. There is no research showing glutamic acid to have special properties when used in topical cosmetic formulations. See amino acid. glutamine. Can help improve the barrier function of skin.

glutathione. Potent antioxidant. glycereth-17 cocoate. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester. glycereth-20 stearate. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester. Glycereth-26. See glyceryl ester. glycereth-26 phosphate. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester. glycereth-6 laurate. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester. glycerin. Also called glycerol; it is present in all natural lipids (fats), whether animal or vegetable. It can be manufactured by the hydrolysis of fats and by the fermentation of sugars. It can also be synthetically manufactured. For some time it was thought that too much glycerin in a moisturizer could pull water out of the skin instead of drawing it into the skin. That theory now seems to be completely unfounded. What appears to be true is that glycerin shores up the skin's natural protection by filling in the area known as the intercellular matrix and by attracting just the right amount of water to maintain the skin's homeostasis. There is also research indicating that the presence of glycerin in the intercellular layer helps other skin lipids do their jobs better. glycerine. See glycerin. glycerol. See glycerin. glycerol monostearate. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester. glycerol triacetate. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester. glycerol trioleate. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester. glyceryl behenate/eicosadioate. A mixture of glycerin and behenic acid. See glyceryl ester. glyceryl cocoate. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester. glyceryl dipalmitate. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester. glyceryl distearate. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester. glyceryl ester. Large group of ingredients that are composed of fats and oils. At room temperature, the fats are usually solid and the oils are generally liquid. Some tropical oils are liquids in their sites of origin and become solids in cooler or different applications. These multitudinous fats and oils are used in cosmetics as emollients and lubricants as well as water-binding and thickening agents. glyceryl glycyrrhetinate. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester and glycyrrhetinate. glyceryl hydroxystearate. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester. glyceryl isopalmitate. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester. glyceryl isostearate. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester. glyceryl myristate. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester. glyceryl oleate. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester. glyceryl palmitate. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester. glyceryl stearate. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester.

glyceryl tricapryl-caprate. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester. glycine. See amino acid. Glycine soja oil. Oil derived from wild soybeans; it has emollient properties. See natural moisturizing factors. glycogen. Polysaccharide that has water-binding properties for skin. See polysaccharide. glycol stearate. Used as an emollient and thickening agent. See glyceryl ester. glycolic acid. See AHA. glycolipid. Type of lipid composed of sugar (monosaccharide) and fat (lipid) that forms an important component of cell membranes and ceramides. Glycolipids coat cell walls, forming a barrier that holds skin and water content in place. See ceramides, lipid, and mucopolysaccharide. glycoproteins. Cell-to-cell communicating ingredients created when a protein links with a carbohydrate. Glycoproteins play a critical role in the body with how various systems recover from internal and external stresses. They are also fundamentally involved in cellular repair, among other functions. But evidence that they can affect wrinkles in any way when applied topically just isn’t anywhere to be found in science. Additionally, when glycoproteins are combined with saccharides they form substances that comprise the skin's intercellular matrix. This matrix keeps skin cells and the skin's structure intact, with glycoprotein derivatives such as polysaccharides and glycosaminoglycans such as hyaluronic acid. See mucopolysaccharide, natural moisturizing factors, and protein. glycosaminoglycans. Also known as mucopolysaccharides; these are a fundamental component of skin tissue, and are essentially a group of complex proteins. Chondroitin sulfate and hyaluronic acid are part of this ingredient group. See chondroitin sulfate, hyaluronic acid, and natural moisturizing factors. glycosphingolipid. See glycolipid and natural moisturizing factors. glycyrrhetic acid. Extract from licorice that has anti-inflammatory properties. Glycyrrhiza glabra. Licorice plant. See glycyrrhetic acid and licorice extract. Gnaphalium leontopodium flower extract. Fragrant plant extract; it has no known benefit for skin. gold. Relatively common allergen that can induce dermatitis about the face and eyelids. There is no research showing it to have benefit when applied topically to skin. goldenseal. RelaA plant that may have antibacterial or antiviral properties when taken orally. There is no evidence that such an effect occurs when applied topically on skin. It can be a skin irritant. gotu kola. See Centella asiatica. grape seed extract. There are no published studies indicating that grapes in any form, applied topically, can affect the wrinkling process. However, grape seed extract contains proanthocyanidins, which are considered to be very potent antioxidants, helpful for diminishing the sun's damaging effects and lessening free-radical damage. It has also been shown to have wound-healing properties. There is no difference in the antioxidant potential between different types of grapes. grape seed oil. Emollient oil that also has good antioxidant properties. See also grape seed extract, linoleic acid, and Paula's article Grape and Grape Seed Extract. grapefruit oil. Emollient oil that also has good antioxidant properties. See also grape seed extract and linoleic acid. green tea. Significant amounts of research have established that tea, including black, green, and white tea, delivers many intriguing health benefits. Dozens of studies point to tea's potent antioxidant as well as anticarcinogenic properties. However, a good deal of this research is on animal models that do not directly relate to human skin. There is only limited information about its effect on skin. The Journal of

Photochemistry and Photobiology stated that the polyphenols "are the active ingredients in green tea and possess antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anticarcinogenic properties. Studies conducted by our group on human skin have demonstrated that green tea polyphenols (GTP) prevent ultraviolet (UV)-B…-induced immune suppression and skin cancer induction." Green tea and the other teas (such as white tea, which is what green tea begins as) show a good deal of promise for skin, but they are not quite the miracle that cosmetics and health food companies make them out to be. As the Annual Review of Pharmacology and Toxicology put it, "Tea has received a great deal of attention because tea polyphenols are strong antioxidants, and tea preparations have inhibitory activity against tumorigenesis. The bioavailability and biotransformation of tea polyphenols, however, are key factors limiting these activities in vivo [in humans]. Epidemiological studies … have not yielded clear conclusions concerning the protective effects of tea consumption against cancer formation in humans." What is not disputed are the anti-inflammatory properties of tea (black, green, and white). These are also definitely potent antioxidants. All of that is very good for skin, but whether it has any effect on wrinkles or scars is speculation, not fact. Grindelia Robusta extract. Also known as tar weed or gum weed. It can be a potential skin irritant. gromwell extract. See Lithospermum officinale. guaiac wood. Used as a fragrant extract in cosmetics; it is a potent skin irritant. Guaiacum officinale. See guaiac wood. guanine. Component of DNA that carries genetic information to the cell. See DNA. guanosine. Ribonucleoside component of ribonucleic acid (RNA). RNA holds part of the body's genetic material. Guanosine is needed in a vital, complicated chemical process that creates DNA and RNA. However, guanosine topically on skin can not affect the function of RNA or DNA. The production of DNA and RNA is occurs in a complex process that requires a multitude of proteins and enzymes to have an effect on the body's genetic material. It is doubtful you would want to ever put anything on your skin that could impact genetic material, and particularly not via a cosmetic that has no safety or efficacy regulations. From any viewpoint, trying to impact RNA and DNA randomly would create a significant risk of cancer. See DNA and RNA. guar gum. Plant-derived thickening agent. guarana. Herb that contains two and a half times more caffeine than coffee. It can have constricting properties on skin and can therefore be a skin irritant. See caffeine. guava extract. Fruit extract that can have constricting properties on skin, which makes it a potential skin irritant when used regularly. In the diet, it has been found to have antioxidant properties, but there is no research demonstrating it has this effect topically on skin. gums. Substances that have water-binding properties but that are primarily used as thickening agents in cosmetics. Some gums have a sticky feel and are used as film-forming agents in hairsprays, while others can constrict skin and have irritancy potential. Natural thickeners such as acacia, tragacanth, and locust bean are types of gums.

H Hamamelis virginiana. See witch hazel. hamamelitannin. Tannin that is found in witch hazel. It can be a skin irritant but it also has potent antioxidant properties. See tannin. Haslea ostrearia extract. Derived from a water plant also known as blue algae. In pure concentrations this extract can have antiviral properties on skin. See algae. hawthorn extract. When taken orally hawthorn may improve circulation. The bioflavonoids in hawthorn are potent antioxidants. But there is no research showing that this extract has any benefit for skin. hayflower extract. Plant extract that, due to its constricting effect on skin, can be an irritant. There is no research supporting the claim that it can have any effect on skin. hazelnut oil. Oil extracted from the hazelnut; used as an emollient. See natural moisturizing factors.

Heather Extract. A flower whose constituents have anti-inflammatory properties, though significant research is lacking. It appears to have antibacterial properties as well. heavy water. Water in which hydrogen atoms have been replaced by deuterium; it is used chiefly as a coolant in nuclear reactors. Hedera helix. See English ivy. hedione. Synthetic fragrant component in products that can also be a skin irritant. helianthus oil. See sunflower oil. Helichrysum italicum. One species of a plant family that includes strawflower. Extracts of these plants can have potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties for skin. hematin. Iron-containing portion of blood. It has no known benefit for skin. hemolymph extract. Extract of crustacean blood. It can be a source of proteins or other water-binding agents, but there is no research showing it to have special benefit when applied topically on skin. hemp seed oil. From the hemp plant, Cannabis sativa. Because both hemp and marijuana are from the genus Cannabis, they are often thought (erroneously) to have similar properties. Yet because hemp contains virtually no THC (delta-9-tetrahydrocannabinol), the active ingredient in marijuana, it is not used as a drug of any kind. In cosmetics, hemp seed oil is used as an emollient. Other claims about its effect on skin are not substantiated. See fatty acid. hepatocyte growth factor (HGF). Stimulates division in cells lining the liver, skin cells, and cells that produce skin color. See human growth factor. heptamethylnonane. See isohexadecane. hesperidin. Is a flavonoid found in various plants such as citruses and evening primrose oil. It has potential as a potent antioxidant—reducing the effects of sun damage and in the prevention of some cancers. It is also taken orally to improve circulation and to strengthen capillaries. There is no published research showing it combats cellulite. hexyl laurate. A skin conditioning agent and emollient that is a mixture of hexyl alcohol and lauric acid. hexylene glycol. See propylene glycol. Hibiscus sabdariffa flower extract. There is some research showing extracted components of the plant have antioxidant, antitumor, and anti-inflammatory properties. Whether or not these potential benefits are from the flower extract itself as opposed to its components has not been evaluated. Hierochloe Odorata extract. Commonly known as sweet grass, it may have antioxidant properties. Himanthalia elongate extract. Component of algae. See algae. histidine. See amino acid. Hoelen. Has antibacterial, preservative, wound-healing, and water-binding properties when applied topically. honeysuckle extract. Fragrant plant extract that can be a skin irritant, but may also have anti-irritant properties. hops. There is no research showing that hops have any benefit for skin. However, components in hops may have antioxidant and antibacterial properties. The plant may also have estrogenic properties. Hordeum vulgare extract. See barley extract. horse chestnut extract. May have anti-inflammatory properties for skin. Orally it has been shown to reduce

edema in the lower leg by improving the elastic tissue surrounding the vein. horse elder. See elecampane. horseradish. Can irritate skin and should never be applied to abraded skin. horsetail extract. A plant extract that has a high tannin, alkaloid, and nicotine content, which can have skinconstricting properties and be irritating to skin. It also has antioxidant properties, but there are many other potent antioxidants that can be used which don't cause skin irritation. Hortonia floribunda leaf extract. No research shows this plant as having any benefit for skin although it is used as a mosquito repellant in Sri Lanka. Huang qi. See milk vetch root. human growth factor. It is important to make it clear that the topic of human growth factor (HGF) is exceedingly complicated. The physiological intricacies of the varying HGFs and their actions challenge any layperson's comprehension. Nonetheless, because the use of HGF seems to be the direction some skincare companies are taking, and because there is a large body of research showing its efficacy for wound healing (but not for wrinkles), it does deserve comment. HGFs make up a complex family of hormones that are produced by the body to control cell growth and cell division in skin, blood, bone, and nerve tissue. Most significantly, HGFs regulate the division and reproduction of cells, and they also can influence the growth rate of some cancers. HGFs occur naturally in the body but they are also synthesized and used in medicine for a range of applications, including wound healing and immune system stimulation. HGFs are chemical messages that bind to receptor sites on the cell surface (receptor sites are places where cells communicate with a substance to let them know what or what not to do). HGFs must communicate with cells to instruct them to activate the production of new cells, or to instruct a cell to create new cells that have different functions. Another way to think of HGFs is that they are messengers designed to be received or "heard" by specific receptor sites or "ears" on the cell. HGFs, such as transforming growth factor (TGF, stimulates collagen production) or epidermal growth factor (EGF, stimulates skin cell production), play significant roles in healing surgical wounds. The main task of HGFs is to cause cell division, which is helpful; however, at certain concentrations and lengths of application they can cause cells to over-proliferate, which can cause cancer or other health problems. But what happens when you put HGFs on skin, particularly TGF and EGF, which some companies claim their products contain? The risk is that they could accelerate the growth of skin cancer by stimulating the overproduction of skin cells. In the case of TGF, which stimulates collagen production, it can encourage scarring. This is because scars are the result of excessive collagen production, and if you make too much collagen you get a scar or a knot on the skin such as a keloidal scar. Most of the research on the issue of HGFs for skin has looked primarily at the issue of wound healing, and at short-term use of HGFs. In skincare products, they would be used repeatedly, possibly over long periods of time. A shortcoming of HGFs, according to an article by Dr. Donald R. Owen in the March 1999 issue of Global Cosmetic Industry, is that "The body produces these [HGFs] in exquisitely small concentrations at just the right location and time.... Actual growth factors such as [EGF and TGF-B] are [large] configurations, which do not penetrate the skin.... They [also] lose their activity within days in water or even as solids at normal temperatures.... [Yet], even after all these complications, the siren's song is too strong. We [the cosmetics chemists] will use them." The research into HGFs is without question intriguing, but there is much that's not known, especially in terms of long-term risk or stability when they're used in cosmetics and applied to skin. In this arena, if cosmetics companies continue to use HGFs, it is the consumer who will be the guinea pig. humectant. See water-binding agent. Humulus lupulus extract. See hops. hyaluronic acid. Component of skin tissue that is used in skin-care products as a good water-binding agent. See natural moisturizing factors. hybrid sunflower seed oil. Non-volatile plant oil used as an emollient. A natural source of tocopherols (vitamin E). See vitamin E. Hydnocarpus anthelmintica. See chaulmoogra oil.

Hydrastis canadenis. See goldenseal. hydrocortisone. Hormone from the adrenal gland that can also be created synthetically. It has potent antiinflammatory properties for skin, but prolonged use can destroy collagen in the skin and cause skin fragility. hydrocotyl extract. See Centella asiatica. hydrogen peroxide. There is a great deal of current research showing that hydrogen peroxide is problematic as a topical disinfectant because it can greatly reduce the production of healthy new skin cells. Hydrogen peroxide is also a significant oxidizing agent, meaning that it generates free-radical damage. While it can function as a disinfectant, the cumulative problems that can stem from impacting the skin with a substance that is known to generate free-radical damage, impair the skin's healing process, cause cellular destruction, and reduce optimal cell functioning are serious enough so that it is better to avoid its use. hydrogenated castor oil hydroxystearate. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester. hydrogenated coco-glycerides. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester. hydrogenated didecene. A skin-conditioning agent derived from didecene, which is a hydrocarbon. Hydrocarbons are organic compounds that contain only carbon or hydrogen. Examples of common hydrocarbons include mineral oil, petroleum, and paraffin wax. hydrogenated lecithin. See lecithin. hydrogenated palm glyceride. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester. hydrogenated polydecene. Synthetic polymer that functions as an emollient and skin-conditioning agent. hydrogenated polyisobutene. A synthetic polymer used as a skin-conditioning agent and emollient. hydrolyzed actin. Form of protein that has water-binding properties for skin. See water-binding agent. hydrolyzed conchiolin protein. A component of oyster shell. It can have water-binding properties for skin. See protein. Hydrolyzed jojoba esters. Essential fatty acids from the jojoba plant, broken down by water to form a new complex with properties different from the original source. An analogy of this process is the manner in which humans digest food to turn it into energy. Jojoba esters function as a skin conditioning agent. hydrolyzed reticulin. Reticulin are a type of fibers found in skin and thought to be part of a systematic network that surrounds collagen fibers and helps hold them together. There is no evidence that applying reticulin externally to skin can have any effect on collagen whatsoever. Moreover, the hydrolyzing process needed to mix reticulin into a skin-care product also alters its form, which may change or stop anything it might do. hydrolyzed silk. See silk. Hydrolyzed vegetable protein. Composed of various protein substances derived from vegetables and broken down by water to form a new complex with properties different from the original source. Used as a water-binding agent. hydroquinone. Substance that is known to successfully reduce the intensity of freckles, melasma, and general brown patching by inhibiting melanin production. For continued and increased effectiveness it must be used long term. Unprotected sun exposure should be avoided, because it reverses the effect of hydroquinone by increasing melanin production. Occasionally, at higher concentrations, persons with a darker skin type will experience increased pigmentation, but this is rare. It can cause mild skin irritation and there is the possibility of an allergic reaction. Hydroquinone in 1% to 2% concentrations is available in overthe-counter products; 4% concentrations are available by prescription only.

There is concern that hydroquinone is a potentially carcinogenic substance. In vitro, hydroquinone has a toxic effect on cells containing melanin. Aside from the in vitro studies (done in test tubes), the only harmful effects are reported in animal studies where hydroquinone is fed to animals. In these studies tumor creation or DNA damage is noted. However, this is not the case in epidemiological studies in which production workers (meaning those workers involved in the manufacture of hydroquinone) have been shown to have lower death rates and reduced cancer rates when compared with the population as a whole. Adverse effects associated with skin-lightening products that contain hydroquinone in FDA-regulated products have been limited to a small number of cases of hyperpigmentation. A review of the safety evidence for hydroquinone as it is used in over-the-counter drug products revealed that in its 50-year history, there has not been a single reported case of an internal or external (meaning skin)malignancy.

hydroxyethylcellulose. Plant-derived thickening agent typically used as a binding agent or emulsifier. Also used (most often in styling products) as a film-forming agent. hydroxylated lecithin. See lecithin. hydroxypalmitoyl sphinganine. Sphinganine is a sphingoid base, found concentrated in mammalian epidermis, that may serve as a natural antifungal barrier preventing infection by pathogenic fungi. However, it may also inhibit ceramide production. hydroxyproline. Derived from the amino acid proline, it is a fundamental component of collagen and other structural proteins. Skin's ability to heal is partly determined by the presence of hydroxyproline within it. Whether topical application of hydroxyproline to the skin can help with wound healing has not been substantiated. However, it does have water-binding properties similar to those of collagen. hydroxypropyl guar. See guar gum. hypericum extract. See St. John's wort. Hypnea musciformis extract. See algae. hypoallergenic. Term used by the cosmetics industry to lead consumers to believe they are using a product that will not cause them to have an allergic or sensitizing skin reaction to a product. However, the word "hypoallergenic" is not regulated in any manner by the FDA and it is therefore used indiscriminately by cosmetics companies without any substantiation or need to show proof of the claim.

I Ilex paraguariensis. See yerba mate extract. Illicium vernum. See anise. imidazolidinyl urea. Formaldehyde-releasing preservative. Imperata cylindrica root extract. There is no research to support the claims that this extract has any benefit for skin. in vitro. Literally means "in glass." It refers to a biochemical process or reaction tested in a Petri dish or test tube, rather than one taking place in a living cell, organism, animal, or person. in vivo. Refers to a biological or chemical process or reaction taking place in a living cell, organism, animal, or person. inactive ingredient. The inactive ingredients list is the part of an ingredient label that is not regulated by the FDA, although the FDA does require the complete listing of contents. These are given in descending order of concentration; that is, the largest concentration is listed first, then the next largest, and so forth. Thousands and thousands of inactive ingredients are used in cosmetics, and there is controversy as to how truly inactive these substances are in regard to safety as well as about their long-term or short-term effects on skin or the human body. Indian gooseberry. Can have anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and anti-mutagenic properties. inositol. Major component of lecithin and may have water-binding properties for skin. It is not a vitamin,

though it is sometimes mistakenly thought of as a B vitamin. insulinlike growth factor (IGF). Stimulates fat cells and connective tissue cells. See human growth factor. intercellular matrix. "Mortar" that holds layers of skin cells together, creating a firm natural barrier. Preserving the intercellular layer intact keeps bacteria out, moisture in, and the skin's surface smooth. See natural moisturizing factors. interleukins (IL). Stimulates growth of white blood cells. See human growth factor. International Units. Often abbreviated as IU; a system used to measure vitamin dosage. However, there is no fixed definition for IU, as there is for grams, milligrams, or ounces. The actual amount in a particular international unit depends on the specific substance being measured. For example, 1000 IU of vitamin A (retinol) has a different weight than 1000 IU of natural vitamin E, and natural vitamin E has a different weight than synthetic vitamin E. For example, 1 IU of vitamin A (retinol) weighs 0.3 micrograms or 0.0003 milligrams; 1 IU of vitamin C weighs 25 nanograms or 0.000025 milligrams; and 1 IU of natural vitamin E weighs 0.67 milligrams. Inula helenium. See elecampane. inulin. Natural plant carbohydrate. It is used in foods due to its fatlike feel and texture while being low in calories. Inulin yields about 1.5 calories per gram, compared to 4 calories per gram for carbohydrates like sugar and 9 calories per gram for fat. In cosmetics it is used as a thickening agent. iodopropynyl butylcarbamate. Used as a preservative in cosmetics. See preservatives. Iris florentina extract. See orris root. Irish moss extract. A type of red algae. See algae. iron oxides. Compounds of iron that are used as colorings in some cosmetics. They are used as a metal polish called jewelers' rouge, and are well-known in their crude form as rust. Irvingia gabonensis kernel extract. Used medicinally in West Africa to relieve pain. It has been shown to have narcotic analgesic properties. There is no research showing the extract to be of benefit for skin. isobutyl acetate. See solvent. Isobutyl methyl tetrahydropyranol. Synthetic fragrance ingredient. Isobutylparaben. See parabens. isocetyl salicylate. See sodium salicylate. Isododecane. A hydrocarbon ingredient used as a solvent. Isododecane enhances the spreadability of products and has a weightless feel on skin. All hydrocarbons used in cosmetics work to prevent the evaporation of water from skin. Isodonis japonicus extract. Fragrant plant extract that contains terpenes. It can be a skin irritant. See volatile oil. Isodonis trichocarpus extract. Fragrant plant extract that contains terpenes. It can be a skin irritant. See volatile oil. isoflavone. Plant estrogen with potent antioxidant properties. isohexadecane. Used as a detergent cleansing agent, emulsifier, and thickening agent in cosmetics. isoleucine. See amino acid. isoparaffin. See paraffin.

isopropyl alcohol. See alcohol. isopropyl lanolate. Derived from lanolin, it is used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and emollient. isopropyl myristate. Used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and emollient. Historically, animal testing has shown it to be a cause of clogged pores. That type of testing was eventually considered unreliable and there is no subsequent research showing this ingredient to be any more of a problem for skin than other emollient, waxy ingredients used in cosmetics. isopropyl palmitate. Used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and emollient. As is true for any emollient or thickening agent, it can potentially clog pores, depending on the amount used in the product. isostearamide DEA. Used as a surfactant, water-binding agent, and thickening agent. See surfactant, water-binding agent, and thickening agent.

J Japan wax. Vegetable wax obtained from sumac berries. It is used as a thickening agent and emollient in cosmetics. Japanese dandelion. There is a small amount of research showing it to have anti-tumor properties on mouse skin. But it can also be a skin irritant. See dandelion extract. jasmine oil. Fragrant oil, often used as a source of perfume, that can be a skin irritant or sensitizer.It may have antifungal properties. Jasminium grandiflorum. See jasmine oil. jewelweed. Has antifungal properties. There is one animal study showing that, when taken orally, it can stop itching associated with dermatitis, however, when applied topically there is no benefit when compared to a placebo in cases using jewelweed to reduce itching related to dermatitis or poison ivy. jojoba oil. Emollient oil similar to other nonfragrant plant oils. See natural moisturizing factors. jojoba wax. The semi-solid portion of jojoba oil. See natural moisturizing factors. jonquil extract. Fragrant plant extract that poses a strong risk of skin irritation. Ju hua. See chrysanthemum extract. juniper berry. Can have anti-inflammatory properties for skin, though the methanol content, with repeated application, can cause skin irritation.

K kaolin. Natural claylike mineral (silicate of aluminum) that is used in cosmetics for its absorbent properties. Kathon CG. See methylchloroisothiazolinone. katrafay oil. Emollient plant oil that may have anti-inflammatory properties; however there is no research supporting this use. kava-kava extract. Extract of the Piper methysticum plant that has analgesic (anti-inflammatory) properties, but can also cause skin irritation and dermatitis. kawa extract. See kava-kava extract. kelp extract. See algae. kelpadelie extract. Common name for an extract from Macrocystis pyrifera. See algae. Khaya senegalensis extract. May have some antimicrobial properties. Khus khus extract. See vetiver oil or extract.

Kigelia africana extract. Extract of an African plant commonly known as the sausage tree. The African lore about this extract is that it can firm breast tissue, but there is no supporting research for this myth, or that indicates this plant has any other benefit for skin. kinetin. The trade name for kinetin is N6-furfuryladenine. It is a plant hormone responsible for cell division. As a "natural" skin-care ingredient it is primarily being promoted as having been clinically proven to reduce the signs of aging, improve sun damage, reduce surfaced capillaries, and offer many other skin benefits of particular interest to aging baby boomers. There is a good deal of research on kinetin when it comes to plants or in test tubes (in vitro), with cells, or even on flies, but there is no published research on kinetin's topical effect, either on animal or human skin (Source: Dermatologic Clinics, October 2000, pages 609–615). However, there are two unpublished clinical studies responsible for much of the attention kinetin is getting. Both were sponsored by Senetek, the company licensing the use of kinetin. On a closer look, according to MedFaq.com (a now-defunct Internet source that evaluated the legitimacy of medical research), the data are far less convincing than Senetek would want you to know. These studies, paid for by Senetek, were both done by Dr. Jerry L. McCullough, professor of dermatology, University of California, Irvine. According to MedFaq, "The first study was well-designed—there was a control group and [it was done] double-blind…. After 24 weeks, a good response was noted in 30% of the subjects treated with kinetin… [but] there was no statistically significant difference between the people taking kinetin and the people just getting the placebo." Another study was then performed that did not use a placebo control group, but in which everyone was using a product that contained some amount of kinetin. Not surprisingly, in this protocol the results for skin were much better. "Essentially all of the subjects reported improvement after 24 weeks…" regardless of how much kinetin the product contained. As MedFaq states, "This outcome could also have a variety of causes unrelated to kinetin: It could reflect an improvement over time, a change across seasons, the subjects' enthusiasm, or it could have been caused by the cream or lotion the kinetin is in. In the first study, all of the subjects followed 'a standard skin care regimen consisting of a gentle-skin cleanser and daily use of sunscreen.' If that regimen was followed in the second experiment, it too might explain the improvement." kiwi fruit extract. As a food, kiwi has significant antioxidant properties that may even be greater than those of vitamin C. Whether that benefit translates to its use on skin has not been demonstrated. The acid component of the kiwi can be a skin irritant. Kniphofia uvaria nectar. Derived from the plant also known as red hot poker or torch lily. There is no research showing this to have any benefit for skin. Ko ken. See kudzu root. kojic acid. By-product in the fermentation process of malting rice for use in the manufacture of sake, the Japanese rice wine. There is definitely convincing research, both in vitro and in vivo, and also in animal studies, showing that kojic acid is effective for inhibiting melanin production. Both glycolic acid and kojic acid, as well as glycolic acid with hydroquinone are highly effective in reducing the pigment in melasma patients. So why aren't there more products available containing kojic acid? Kojic acid is an extremely unstable ingredient in cosmetic formulations. Upon exposure to air or sunlight it turns a strange shade of brown and loses its efficacy. Many cosmetics companies use kojic dipalmitate as an alternative because it is far more stable in formulations. However, there is no research showing that kojic dipalmitate is as effective as kojic acid, though it is a good antioxidant. There is a small amount of research showing kojic acid to be a skin irritant. kola nut. One of the major components of the kola nut is caffeine, which can be a skin irritant. However, kola nut also has a primary amine content that can form nitrosamines, which are potential carcinogens. konjac powder. A dietary fiber that is highly absorbent, but not more so than other food substances (cornstarch for example) or nonfood substances (like talc, magnesium, or other minerals). If you have problems with breakouts, any oil-absorbing substance can be helpful for skin; however, adding absorbents in the form of food ingredients can increase the bacteria content in skin. Krameria triandra extract. Derived from the plant commonly known as rhatany, it has a high tannin content and skin-constricting properties, making it a potential skin irritant. However, it also has antioxidant properties. kudzu root. Source of isoflavone, genistein, and daidzein, all plant estrogens. It can be a potent antioxidant.

kukui nut oil. Non-volatile oil from a plant native to Hawaii; it has emollient properties for skin.

L Labdanum oil. Also known as rockrose oil. It is used as a fragrance and film-forming agent in cosmetics. This highly fragrant resin hardens to create a solid film. It may have antibacterial and antifungal properties. lactic acid. An alpha hydroxy acid extracted from milk, though most forms used in cosmetics are synthetic. It exfoliates cells on the surface of skin by breaking down the material that holds skin cells together. It may irritate mucous membranes and cause irritation. See AHA. Lactobacillus bifidus. See bifidus extract. lactobionate. A polysaccharide. It has water-binding properties for skin. lactobionic acid. See polyhydroxy acid. lactoferrin. Protein usually derived from milk (particularly breast milk); also found in saliva. It can have antiviral, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory effects on skin (Sources: Biochemistry and Cell Biology, 2002, volume 80, number 1, pages 103–107; and British Journal of Dermatology, April 2001, pages 715–725). lactoperoxidase. Enzyme derived from milk; it has antibacterial properties for skin. lady's mantle extract. See Alchemilla vulgaris. lady's thistle extract. There is a great deal of research showing extracts of lady's thistle to have many medical health applications when taken orally. There is no research showing it to be beneficial for skin, though it may cause allergic reactions. Lagerstroemia indica extract. Also known as Crepe Myrtle, there is no published research showing it to be effective for the skin in general. Laminaria digitata. See algae. Laminaria japonica. See algae. Laminaria longicruris. See algae. Laminaria saccharine. See algae. Lamium album. A flowering plant that is a member of the mint family; sometimes called dead nettle. See white nettle. lanolin. Derived from the sebaceous glands of sheep. Lanolin has long been burdened with the reputation for being an allergen or sensitizing agent. That has always been a disappointment to formulators because lanolin is such an effective moisturizing agent for skin. A recent study in the British Journal of Dermatology may change all that. The study concluded "that lanolin sensitization has remained at a relatively low and constant rate even in a high-risk population (i.e., patients with recent or active eczema)." Based on a review of 24,449 patients who were tested with varying forms of lanolin, it turned out that "The mean annual rate of sensitivity to this allergen was 1.7%"—and it was lower than that for a 50% concentration of lanolin. It looks like it's time to restore lanolin's good reputation. That's a very good thing for someone with dry skin, though it can be a problem for someone with oily skin, because lanolin closely resembles the oil from human oil glands. lanolin alcohol. Emollient derived from lanolin. See lanolin. lappa extract. See burdock root. Larrea divaricata extract. See chaparral extract. Larrea tridentata. See chaparral extract.

L-ascorbic acid. A common form of vitamin C. It is considered a potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory, but claims that it can eliminate or prevent wrinkles when applied topically are not substantiated in any published studies. In addition, it is stable only in a formulation with a low pH, and that is potentially irritating for skin. lauramphocarboxyglycinate. Mild detergent cleansing agent. See surfactant. laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein. A wheat protein derivative mixed with ammonium chloride to function as an antistatic and water-binding agent. Laureth-23. Derived from lauryl alcohol and used either as a surfactant or emulsifier (or, in many cases, as both). See surfactant. Laureth-4. Derived from lauryl alcohol and used either as a surfactant or emulsifier (or, in many cases, as both). See surfactant. laureths. Substances that in various combinations create a wide range of mild detergent cleansing agents called surfactants. See surfactant. Laurus nobilis. See bay leaf oil. lauryl alcohol. See surfactant. lauryl glucoside. See surfactant. Lavandin oil. The essential oil of the hybrid lavender plant lavandula hybrida used in cosmetics as a fragrance ingredient. Its irritant potential for skin is similar to lavender oil and camphor. Lavandin yields four times more oil per volume of plants than true lavender, but it is of inferior quality with a distinct camphor scent. It is not used in perfumery but instead to scent soaps, air fresheners and similar items. Lavandula angustifolia. See lavender extract and oil. Lavandula officinalis. See lavender extract and oil. lavender extract and oil. Primarily a fragrance ingredient, though it may have antibacterial properties. There is no research showing it to have any benefit for skin. It can be a skin irritant. It can also be a photosensitizer. Current research indicates that components of lavender, specifically linalool, can by cytotoxic, meaning topical application causes skin cell death. L-carnitine. Carboxylic acid that may be erroneously labeled an amino acid (which it is not); it has been claimed to have miraculous properties (unsubstantiated) for enhancing the metabolization of fat when taken orally. There is also research in animal studies showing it to have antiaging benefits when taken orally. However, there is no known benefit for skin when it is applied topically, though it may have antioxidant properties. See antioxidant. L-cysteine. See antioxidant. lecithin. Phospholipid found in egg yolks and the membranes of plant and animal cells. It is widely used in cosmetics as an emollient and water-binding agent. See natural moisturizing factors. lemon. Potent skin sensitizer and irritant. Though it can have antibacterial properties, the irritation can hurt the skin's immune response. lemon balm. See balm mint extract. lemon oil. Can be a skin irritant, especially on abraded skin. lemongrass extract. Can have antibacterial properties but it may also be a skin irritant. lemongrass oil. Also known as Oil of Verbena; can be effective as a mosquito repellant. As a volatile fragrant oil, it contains compounds (including limonene and citral) that can cause irritation.

lempuyang extract. A form of ginger. There is no research showing it to be effective or have benefit for skin. Lentinus edodes extract. Extract from the shiitake mushroom that may have antimicrobial and antibacterial properties, although it could be a potential skin irritant. There is research showing it also has antitumor activity when taken orally. Leptospermum scoparium oil. See manuka oil. lettuce extract. See manuka oil.Has weak antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. leucine. Amino acid. See amino acid and natural moisturizing factors. leukocytes. White blood cells. These defend the body against infecting organisms and foreign agents, both in skin and other tissue and via the bloodstream. An abnormal increase in the production of leukocytes is known as leukemia. Conversely, a sharp decrease in the number of leukocytes (leukopenia) prevents the body from fighting infection. There is no research showing that topical application of leukocytes is helpful for skin in any way. Levisticum officinale root extract. Amino acid. See lovage root extract. licorice extract. Has anti-inflammatory properties. licorice root. See licorice extract. lignoceryl erucate. Form of erucic acid. See erucic acid and fatty acid. Lilium candidum bulb extract. Derived from the white lily bulb. There is no research showing this to have benefit for skin. lime (oil or extract). Can be a skin irritant and a photosensitizer. Limnanthes alba. Commonly known as meadowfoam seed oil, a non-volatile plant oil used as a skin conditioning agent. linalool. Fragrant component of lavender that can be a potent skin irritant, allergen, or sensitizer. Current research indicates that this component of lavender can be cytotoxic (meaning toxic) to skin cells. linden flower extract. Major active constituents in linden are flavonoids and glycosides. Flavonoids are potent antioxidants and glycosides are monosaccharides and have water-binding properties. Linoleamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate. Used as an emulsifying and emollient ingredient in skin- and hair-care products. Has antistatic properties when used on hair. linoleic acid. Unsaturated fatty acid used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. There is some research showing it to be effective in cell regulation and skin-barrier repair, as well as an antioxidant and an anti-inflammatory. linseed oil. Linoleic acid is a component of linseed oil. See linoleic acid. Linum usitatissimum extract. See linseed oil. lipid. Wide range of ingredients found in plants, animals, and human skin. Lipids include fatty acids, sebum, and fats. In skin-care products, these are emollients and thickening agents. See fatty acid and natural moisturizing factors. liposomes. Delivery system (not an ingredient) capable of holding other ingredients and releasing them after the liposome is absorbed into the skin. Liposomes are microscopic lipid (fat) sacs that are widely used as a way to deliver other ingredients into skin. lithium magnesium sodium silicate. Synthetic silica-based clay composed of lithium, sodium, and magnesium. Used as a thickening agent and an absorbent.

Lithocarpus densiflorus extract. An evergreen bark. There is no research showing this to have any benefit for skin. Lithospermum erythrorhizon extract. See shikonin. Lithospermum officinale. Plant that can cause cell damage when applied topically. Lithotamnium calcarum extract. An extract of red algae. See algae. Litsea cubeba. See lemongrass oil. locust bean. See gums. Long xu cai. See algae. longifolene. Component of plants that has some antifungal and antimicrobial properties. Lonicera japonica. See honeysuckle extract. loquat extract. Derived from a subtropical flower that has antioxidant and antitumor properties similar to those of green tea. lotus seed extract. Can have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. lovage root extract. Orally it is used as a diuretic. In cosmetics, it is used as a fragrance. Theoretically, it can cause phototoxic reactions including photosensitivity dermatitis. Lu rong extract. See deer antler velvet. Luffa cylindrica seed oil or extract. Components of this plant that has antifungal properties and antitumor properties, by preventing synthesis of certain proteins. It can also have anti-inflammatory properties. It may also be toxic to skin cancer cells. When the fruit from the luffa plant is dried it is used as an abrasive sponge. lupine. A legume that is a source of isoflavones, a form of plant estrogen that has antioxidant properties. lupine oil. Extract of Lupinus albus, a legume; it has emollient and antioxidant properties, though it may also have significant allergen or skin-sensitizing potential. See lupine. Lupinus albus extract. See lupine and lupine oil. Lupinus luteus seed extract. There is no research showing this plant extract to have any benefit for skin. lutein. Carotenoid that has antioxidant properties. lycopene. Carotenoid that has antioxidant properties. lye. See potassium hydroxide and/or sodium hydroxide. lysine. Amino acid. See amino acid.

M Ma huang. See Ephedra sinica extract. macadamia nut oil. Used in cosmetics as an emollient for dry skin. Macrocystis pyrifera. See algae. Mad Cow Disease. Mad Cow Disease (technically known as bovine spongiform encephalopathy, or BSE) is a chronic degenerative disease affecting the central nervous system of cattle. The concern for humans is the risk of eating meat or meat products that contain the BSE pathogen. Whether bovine-derived ingredients used in cosmetics can harbor the disease and cause health risks is unknown, but theoretically a remote possible risk does exist. Some researchers believe that there is no evidence BSE can be contracted through

the skin however, neither cooking, preserving, nor any of the other processing that most cosmetics go through can eliminate BSE pathogens. That means if animal by-products are used in cosmetics (in particular placenta and spleen bovine extracts), they can pose a risk, albeit remote, to the user. The British BSE Committee, in varying reports, has mentioned a concern that people could become infected if the creams were used on broken skin. It is important to realize that very few products use those kinds of ingredients. If you are thinking of buying cosmetics that contain animal organ extracts of any kind, you may want to reconsider, or discard them if you have already made a purchase. Madagascar periwinkle. Plant that has anti-tumor properties. However, Madagascar periwinkle is considered toxic and has limited use for cancer treatment. magnesium. Earth mineral that has strong absorbent properties and some disinfecting properties. magnesium aluminum silicate. Powdery, dry-feeling, white solid that can be used as a thickening agent and powder in cosmetics. magnesium ascorbyl palmitate. Stable derivative of vitamin C that can be an effective antioxidant. See vitamin C. magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. Form of vitamin C that is considered stable and an effective antioxidant for skin. For skin lightening, there is only a single study showing it to be effective for inhibiting melanin production. The study concluded that a moisturizer with a 10% concentration of magnesium ascorbyl phosphate "suppressed melanin formation…. The lightening effect was significant in 19 of 34 patients with chloasma or senile freckles and in 3 of 25 patients with normal skin." One study is not exactly anything to write home about, not to mention that at present there are no products on the market that contain 10% magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. magnesium carbonate. An inorganic mineral salt used as an absorbent, opacifying agent, coloring agent, or to adjust the pH of cosmetic products. magnesium gluconate. Magnesium is an essential mineral the body uses to maintain circulatory and nervous system function. There is a small amount of research showing that it has antibacterial properties. There is also research showing it may be helpful for healing burns. magnesium hydroxide. Active ingredient in milk of magnesia. It is an absorbent and has antibacterial properties for skin. magnesium laureth sulfate. Mild detergent cleansing agent. See surfactant. magnesium oleth sulfate. Mild detergent cleansing agent. See surfactant. magnesium stearate. Used as a thickening agent in cosmetics. magnesium sulfate. Commonly known as Epsom salt. A magnesium salt used as a thickening agent. mahanimba. See neem extract or oil. malic acid. See AHA. malkagni. See Celastrus paniculatus. mallow. Can be used as a thickening agent in cosmetics and may have anti-inflammatory and soothing properties for skin due to its content of mucilage, flavonoids, and anthocyanidins. Malva sylvestris extract. Also known as Blue Mallow Flower, this extract may have some anti-inflammatory and soothing properties for the skin, as well as some potential antioxidant benefits. Malvaceae extract. From a plant family, Malvaceae, that includes over 1,000 species, found in tropical and temperate regions the world over. Their varying benefits and problems are diverse. Consequently, if this singular listing appears on a cosmetic ingredient label it is misleading, given that each of the 1,000 species

has its own pros and cons. mandarin orange oil or extract. Primarily used as a fragrance; it can be a skin irritant. There is no research showing it to have benefit when applied topically. manganese gluconate. Mineral found in trace amounts in tissues of the body. While manganese plays a vital role in the processes of many body systems, there is no evidence it serves any purpose topically on skin, though it may be an antioxidant. manganese violet. A coloring agent/additive permanently listed (as of 1976) by the FDA for use in cosmetic products, including those designed for use around the eye. Mangifera indica root. Derived from the mango tree; it can have antioxidant properties. mannan. Any of a group of polysaccharides that have good water-binding, antioxidant, and anticancer properties. See mucopolysaccharide and natural moisturizing factors. mannitol. Component of plants that has potent antioxidant properties. manuka oil. Derived from the New Zealand tea tree; the oil is similar to that of the Australian tea tree, Melaleuca alternifolia. Manuka oil has antifungal and antibacterial properties. mare milk palmitate. Protein derivative from female horses; can have water-binding properties for skin. See natural moisturizing factors. marigold. See calendula extract. marionberry. Fruit that has potent antioxidant properties. marjoram. Herb with a fragrant component used in cosmetics; can be a skin irritant. marshmallow. See mallow. Mastocarpus stellatus. See algae. mate extract. See yerba mate extract. Matricaria oil. See chamomile. Matrix metalloproteinases. Also called MMPs, are a group of 23 different enzymes that cause substances in the body to break down. Of the 23 types, MMP-1, also known as collagenase, is responsible for the destruction of collagen. Generated primarily by unprotected sun exposure and the aging process, it is also present in sebum (which may be a cause of acne). One of the primary ways to decrease MMPs in skin, particularly MMP-1 is with smart sun behavior and wellformulated sunscreens. But there is also research showing that epigallocatechin-3-gallate (a derivative of green tea), retinoic acid (RA), eicosapentaenoic acid (an omega-3 fatty acid), beta-carotene, DHEA (though this is controversial), polysaccharides, vitamin E, and vitamin C, and flavonoids, to name a few, can inhibit MMPs and increase TIMPs (tissue inhibitors of metalloproteinases; when these increase in skin, MMPs decrease). Matrixyl. See palmitoyl pentapeptide 3. MEA. See alkyloamides and triethanolamine. Meadowsweet extract. Can have anti-inflammatory properties. Medicago sativa. See alfalfa extract. Melaleuca alternifolia. See tea tree oil. Melaleuca cajeputi oil. There is no research showing this oil, derived from the same plant family as tea tree

oil, to have antibacterial properties. It may cause skin irritation. melamine. Derived from urea, it is used as a film-forming agent. See film-forming agent. melanin. Pigment in cells that creates the color in skin and hair. melasma. Melasma or chloasma are brownish discolorations of the face, hands, chest, and neck. Pregnancy is a common cause of melasma, as well as taking oral contraceptives. However, unprotected exposure to sunlight is also a major cause. Melia azadirachta. See neem extract or oil. melibiose. Saccharide that can have good water-binding properties. See mucopolysaccharide and natural moisturizing factors. Melissa officinalis. See balm mint extract and counter-irritant. Mentha arvensis. See cornmint. Mentha piperita. See counter-irritant and peppermint. Mentha spicata. See counter-irritant and spearmint oil. Mentha viridis. See counter-irritant and spearmint oil. menthol. Derived from peppermint; it can have the same irritating effect as peppermint on skin. See counter-irritant, and peppermint. menthone. Major constituent of peppermint. See peppermint. menthyl lactate. Used as a cooling agent and fragrance in cosmetics. It is a derivative of menthol and is supposed to be less irritating than menthol. See counter-irritant and menthol. methanol. See alcohol. methionine. See amino acid and antioxidant. methoxypropylgluconamide. An alpha hydroxy acid that may be less irritating than glycolic acid and lactic acid. However, there is almost no research about this ingredient and very little is known about its benefit and function.It most likely functions more as a water-binding agent than anything else. This ingredient was originally patented by Revlon and the study cited above was carried out by Revlon. methyl gluceth-20. Liquid that functions as a water-binding and skin-conditioning agent. methylchloroisothiazolinone. In combination with methylisothiazolinone, it goes by the trade name Kathon CG. Introduced into cosmetics in the mid-1970s, it elicited a great number of sensitizations in consumers. This led to its withdrawal from cosmetics other than in rinse-off products. methyldibromo glutaronitrile. Formaldehyde-releasing preservative. methyldihydrojasmonate. Synthetic fragrant components. methyleugenol. Natural constituent of such plant oils as rose, basil, blackberry, cinnamon, and anise. According to the November 9, 1998, issue of The Rose Sheet (an insider cosmetics industry newsletter), the National Toxicology Program Board of Scientific Counselors concluded that "methyleugenol, a component of a number of essential oils, has shown clear evidence of carcinogenic activity in male and female rats and mice." The study is an animal model and so the results may or may not be applicable to humans. methylisothiazolinone. Preservative that should be used only in rinse-off products because it can be too irritating when left on skin. See methylchloroisothiazolinone and preservatives. methylparaben. See parabens and preservatives.

methylpropanediol. A glycol that functions as a solvent. Methylpropanediol can enhance the penetration of ingredients (such as salicylic acid) into the skin. methylrosaniline chloride. See gentian violet extract. methylsilanol mannuronate. See silicone. methylsilanol PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester and silicone. methylsufonylsulfate. See antioxidant. methylsulfonylmethane. Also known as MSM. There is no published research to back up claims made regarding any benefit this sulfur compound may have for arthritis or other physical ailments. There is no research about its effect when applied topically. Sulfur is stored in every cell of the body, particularly in the hair, nails, and connective tissue of joints and skin, where it is an important structural protein component. An MSM manufacturer has sponsored two very small trials, but the results have not been published. Until additional research is published, MSM enthusiasm should be tempered. MSM is available in capsules and powder for oral intake or in creams for topical use. So far, there have been no reports of toxicity. Mexoryl SX. Also called ecamsule, it is a synthetic sunscreen agent developed and patented by L’Oreal. The technical name for Mexoryl SX is terephthalylidine dicamphor sulfonic acid. It has been used in the company’s sunscreen products sold outside of the United States since 1993, and was first approved for use in Europe in 1991. In July 2006 the FDA approved the use of Mexoryl SX in the U.S. in a single sunscreen product, La Roche-Posay’s Anthelios SX SPF 15 (L’Oreal owns La Roche-Posay). The FDA did not approve Mexoryl SX for use in any other sunscreen; only this one specific product. Anthelios SX will list Mexoryl SX as ecamsule on the label along with other actives of avobenzone and octocrylene (both of those sunscreen ingredients have been approved for use in the U.S. for years). L’Oreal has been blitzing the media with press releases about this approval, most touting Mexoryl’s improved stability compared to avobenzone or intimating that it is the best UVA sunscreen available. According to sunscreen expert Ken Klein, president of Cosmetech Labs, who also teaches sunscreen formulation classes for the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, although Mexoryl SX does not degrade after hours of sun exposure at the same rate as avobenzone, it does indeed break down, losing 40% of its protective properties. Studies have shown that after controlled doses of UV exposure, avobenzone breaks down at a rate of 65%, so Mexoryl SX does have a slight stability edge. However, avobenzone can be made more stable when combined with other active ingredients, specifically octocrylene. Outside of the U.S., Tinosorb is often used to enhance the stability of avobenzone. It is also important to note that all sunscreen ingredients break down to some extent after sunlight exposure, which is why reapplication of sunscreen is critical to maintaining protection. Interestingly, the press releases touting Mexoryl’s superiority as a UVAprotecting sunscreen ingredient don’t mention titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, which have long been available worldwide in sunscreen formulations and offer an even greater range of protection with almost no possible risk of irritation, a pervasive problem for synthetic sunscreen agents such as Mexoryl SX. In terms of protection, UVA rays have a range of 320—400 nanometers. Although Mexory protects within this range titanium dioxide and zinc oxide protect the entire UVA and UVB spectrum from 230 to 700 nanometers. Mexoryl SX is an effective UVA sunscreen agent to consider but not the only one to look for. mica. Earth mineral used to give products sparkle and shine. micrococcus lysate. Earth mineral used to give products sparkle and shine.Enzyme derived from bacteria. It can break down foods and is present in the human body. It has no known benefit in skin care. microcrystalline wax. A plastic-type, highly refined wax derived from petroleum. Used as a thickener and to give products a semi-solid to solid smooth texture. Microcystis aeruginosa. Latin name for spirulina. See algae. milk protein. See protein. milk vetch root. There is a good deal of research showing this root to have antioxidant properties, but there is little evidence it has that function when applied topically.

mimosa oil or extract. Used as a fragrance in cosmetics. Mimosa tenuiflora extract. It is used traditionally to treat wounds and burns, particularly in Mexico where the extract is called Tepescohuite. But there is conflicting evidence whether or not this extract is really effective and potentially toxic to skin. mineral oil. Clear, odorless oil derived from petroleum that is widely used in cosmetics because it rarely causes allergic reactions and can't become a solid and clog pores. Despite mineral oil's association with petroleum and the hype that it is bad for skin, keep in mind that petroleum is a natural ingredient derived from the earth and that once it becomes mineral oil, it has no resemblance to the original petroleum. Cosmetics-grade mineral oil and petrolatum are considered the safest, most nonirritating moisturizing ingredients ever found. Yes, they can keep air off the skin to some extent, but that's what a good antioxidant is supposed to do; they don't suffocate skin! Moreover, mineral oil and petrolatum are known to be efficacious in wound healing, and are also considered to be among the most effective moisturizing ingredients available. mink oil. Considered similar to human sebum and, therefore, an effective emollient. The miraculous claims made for this ingredient are not proven, and in moisturizers it is neither preferable to nor more effective than plant oils. mint. Can be a skin irritant and cause contact dermatitis. See counter-irritant. Mitracarpe scaber extract. Extract from a plant native to West Africa; it has been shown to have some antimicrobial properties. mixed fruit extracts. See sugarcane extract. montmorillonite. See bentonite. Moor extract. Trade name for silt extract, a type of mud or clay that has absorbent properties. There is no research showing it to have special benefit for skin. Moringa pterygosperma extract. An extract from the horseradish tree. It can have antioxidant and antiinflammatory properties when taken orally, but there is no research showing those benefits can take place when it is applied topically. Morus bombycis root extract. See mulberry extract. Morus nigra root extract. See black mulberry. Mourera fluvitalis extract. There is no research showing this to have any benefit for skin. mucopolysaccharide. Also known as glycosaminoglycans. This is a large class of ingredients that includes hyaluronic acid, which is found universally in skin tissue. These substances, in association with protein, bind water and other cellular elements so they remain intact, forming a matrix that holds skin cells together. See natural moisturizing factors. mugwort extract. There is no research showing this extract to be beneficial for skin. mulberry extract. Due to its arbutin content, this extract can have some value in preventing melanin production. Although there is limited research showing this to be the case, the research has only been done in vitro. Musa paradisica. See banana extract. Myobloc. An alternative to Botox. Myobloc is the botulinum toxin type B. See Botox. myristates. Generally these are forms of fatty acids used in cosmetics as thickening agents and emollients. As is true for any emollient, they can potentially clog pores, depending on the amount used in the product. See fatty acid.

myristic acid. Detergent cleansing agent that also creates foam and can be drying. See surfactant. myristyl myristate. Used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and emollient. myrrh. Fragrant gum resin that can be a skin irritant. There is little research showing it to have any benefit for skin, though there is a small amount of research showing it may have antifungal and antibacterial properties. myrtle extract. Contains volatile oil and tannins. It can have fungicidal, disinfectant, and antibacterial properties. It contains 1,8-cineole, a constituent responsible for toxicity. It is recommended that this not come in contact with skin. Myrtus communis extract. See myrtle extract (above). Mytilus edulis byssus extract. Extract of the blue mussel. There is no research showing it to have benefit for skin.

N N6-furfuryladenine. Technical name for kinetin. See kinetin. N-acetyl-L tyrosine. See tyrosine. NaPCA. See natural moisturizing factors and sodium PCA. Narcissus poeticus wax. Fragrant flower extract that can cause irritation and dermatitis. Nardost achys jatamaus. See spikenard. Nasturtium officinale extract. See watercress extract. natto gum. Fermentation product of soy protein. It may be a potent antioxidant. natural ingredients. The FDA has tried to establish official definitions and guidelines for the use of certain terms such as "natural" and "hypoallergenic," but its regulations were overturned in court. That means that cosmetics companies can use these terms on ingredient labels to mean anything they want, with the result that it almost always means nothing at all. The term "all-natural" has considerable market value in promoting cosmetic products to consumers, but a close look at an ingredient label reveals that the plant extracts make up only a small percentage of the product. Plus, when a plant is added to a cosmetic, preserved, and stabilized with other ingredients, it loses its natural qualities. natural moisturizing factors. One of the primary elements in keeping skin healthy is making sure the structure of the epidermis (outer layer of skin) is intact. That structure is defined and created by skin cells that are held together by the intercellular matrix. The intercellular matrix is the "glue" or “mortar” between skin cells that keep them together. It helps prevent individual skin cells from losing water and creates the smooth, non-flaky appearance of healthy, intact skin. The components that do this are often called natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) or ingredients that mimic the structure and function of healthy skin. While the oil and fat components of skin prevent evaporation and provide lubrication to the surface of skin, it is actually the intercellular matrix along with the skin's lipid content that gives skin a good deal of its surface texture and feel. The intercellular matrix is the skin’s first line of defense against water loss. When the lipid and NMF content of skin is reduced, we experience surface roughness, flaking, fine lines, and a tight, uncomfortable feeling. The longer the skin’s surface layer (stratum corneum) is impaired, the less effective the skin’s intercellular matrix becomes. Moreover, the skin's healing process is impaired. NMFs make up an expansive group of ingredients that include amino acids, ceramides, hyaluronic acid, cholesterol, fatty acids, triglycerides, phospholipids, glycosphingolipids, urea, linoleic acid, glycosaminoglycans, glycerin, mucopolysaccharide, and sodium PCA (pyrrolidone carboxylic acid). Ingredients that mimic the lipid content of skin are apricot oil, canola oil, coconut oil, corn oil, jojoba oil, jojoba wax, lanolin, lecithin, olive oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, squalane, and sweet almond oil, which can all be extremely helpful for making dry skin look and feel better. All of the skin's supporting NMFs and lipids are present in the intercellular structure of the epidermis, both between skin cells and in the lipid content on the surface of skin. When any of these ingredients are used in skin-care products, they appear to help stabilize and maintain this complex intercellular-skin matrix.

Although none of these very good NMFs and lipids can permanently affect or change skin, they are great at temporarily keeping depleted skin from feeling dry and uncomfortable. More important, all of these ingredients, and many more, can help support the intercellular area of the skin by keeping it intact. This support helps prevent surface irritation from penetrating deeper into the skin, works to keep bacteria out, and aids the skin's immune/healing system. Selecting moisturizers of any kind with NMFs (whether they are labeled as being antiaging, antiwrinkle, serums, lotions, or sunscreens) allows your skin to do its job of repairing and regenerating itself without the impedances brought on when skin is suffering from dryness and excess irritation. neem extract or oil. From leaves of the neem tree; it has potential toxic effects, although it has also been shown to have antimicrobial properties. Nelumbo nucifera. See lotus seed extract. neopentanate. Used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and emollient. neopentyl glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate. Used as an emollient and thickening agent. Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate. A mixture of neopentyl glycol (a film-forming agent and solvent) and heptanoic acid (a fatty acid made from grapes), the compound functions as a non-aqueous skin-conditioning agent and thickener. neptune kelp extract. See algae. neroli. See orange blossom. neroli oil. Fragrant plant oil; it can be a skin irritant and sensitizer. nettle extract. May have anti-inflammatory properties. niacin. See niacinamide. niacinamide. Also called vitamin B3, niacin, and nicotinic acid, this water-soluble ingredient is stable in the presence of heat and light. Topical application of niacinamide has been shown to increase ceramide and free fatty acid levels in skin, prevent skin from losing water content, as well as stimulate micro-circulation in the dermis. 2% niacinamide was shown in one small study to be more effective than petrolatum (Vaseline) for reducing water loss from skin and increasing its hydration levels. Procter & Gamble, whose Olay skincare line sells several products with niacinamide, published a double-blind study involving 50 women. The subjects used a product containing 5% niacinamide (whether that amount is included in Olay’s niacinamide products was not mentioned) for a period of 12 weeks. Results included an improvement in the appearance of wrinkles, skin discolorations, less redness, a reduction in sallowness, and improved elasticity. Another study seconded P&G’s findings that niacinamide is a helpful ingredient to address skin discolorations. It appears that topical niacinamide has an inhibitory effect on the transfer of melanosomes to skin cells, thus it can interrupt the process that causes irregular pigmentation to form. In addition to niacinamide’s growing reputation as an excellent barrier repair and skin lightening agent, some existing animal studies and in vitro studies on human fibroblasts (cells that produce connective tissue such as collagen) have demonstrated that niacinamide may have a mitigating effect on skin tumors. Fewer studies exist to examine niacinamide’s anti-acne properties. An older study compared a gel containing 4% niacinamide with the prescription acne medicine Clindamycin and found it works just as well as the prescription, but without the risk of antibiotic resistance. Perhaps even more important is the potential for niacinamide as a cell-communicating ingredient. niaouli oil. Extracted from a plant related to melaleuca. It has properties similar to those of tea tree oil, making it a possible topical disinfectant. It is a weak antibacterial agent, but it can also be a potent skin irritant. nicotinamide. See niacinamide. nicotinic acid. See niacinamide.

Nigella sativa seed extract. May have anti-inflammatory and immune-enhancing properties. It can also be a skin sensitizer and there is little research showing it to have benefit for skin. nitrogen. Used as a propellant for products by the cosmetics industry; it can generate free-radical damage and cause cell death. nitrosamines. Can be formed in cosmetics when amines (such as DEA, MEA, or TEA) are combined with a formaldehyde-releasing preservative (bronopol or quaternium-15, among others). Nitrosamines are known for their carcinogenic properties. There is controversy as to whether or not this poses a real problem for skin given the small concentrations that are used in cosmetics and the question of whether nitrosamines can even penetrate skin. See formaldehyde-releasing preservative. nonacnegenic. Term used by the cosmetics industry to lead consumers to believe they are using a product that will not cause their skin to break out. However, "nonacnegenic" is not regulated in any manner by the FDA and, therefore, is used indiscriminately by cosmetics companies without any substantiation or proof of claim. noncomedogenic. Term meant to indicate that a product will not clog pores. This term is not regulated by the FDA or any other organization, so a cosmetics company can make this claim regardless of proof or substantiation of any kind. nonoxynols. Used as mild surfactants. See surfactant. nordihydroguaiaretic acid. Component of some plants that has been shown to have anticancer properties for skin and may also protect the skin from sun damage. nylon-12. Powder substance that is used as an absorbent and thickening agent.O

O oak root extract. May have antibacterial properties on skin but can also be a skin irritant. oatmeal. Can have anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory properties. oatmeal soap. Soap containing oatmeal and supposed to be better at absorbing oil and soothing sensitive skin than other soaps or bar cleansers. There are studies demonstrating that oatmeal can have anti-irritant properties. How that translates into a bar cleanser is unknown, but the benefits are probably nonexistent given the amount of time the oatmeal is actually on the skin and the presence of other irritating ingredients. Plus, when rubbed over the skin the pieces of oat particles can be scratchy and irritate some skin types. See oatmeal (above). octinoxate. See octyl methoxycinnamate. octisalate. Technical name for the active sunscreen ingredient octyl salicylate (also known as ethylhexyl salicylate). See octyl salicylate. octocrylene. Sunscreen agent that protects skin from the UVB range of sunlight. octyl methoxycinnamate. Sunscreen agent used to protect skin primarily from the sun's UVB rays. octyl palmitate. Used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and emollient. octyl salicylate. Sunscreen agent used to protect skin primarily from the sun's UVB rays. octyl stearate. Used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and emollient. octyldodecanol. An emulsifier and opacifying agent, used primarily as a thickener in moisturizers because of its lubricating and emollient properties. octyldodecyl myristate. The mixture of octyldocecanol (a thickener) and myristic acid that forms a new compound used as a skin-conditioning agent and emollient. See myristic acid. octyldodecyl neopentanoate. A skin-conditioning agent and emollient.

o-cymen-5-ol. Preservative used in cosmetics. See preservatives. Oenothera Biennis Oil. See evening primrose oil. oleic acid. A fatty acid used as a surfactant and thickening agent. See fatty acid, surfactant, and thickening agent. oleic/linoleic triglyceride. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester. oleths. Mild surfactants. See surfactant. olibanum extract. See frankincense extract. olive oil. Emollient plant oil similar to all nonfragrant plant oils. The concept of olive oil having antiaging properties stems from some evidence that diets high in olive oil may help prevent heart disease. There are also a small number of animal tests showing that topically applied olive oil can protect against UVB damage. It does seem that olive oil is a good antioxidant and assuredly it's a good moisturizing ingredient, but research shows similar results for other oils as well. See natural moisturizing factors. olive oil PEG-6 esters. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester and olive oil. opium poppy seed. Potent analgesic, though there is no research showing this to be effective when applied topically to skin. Opuntia ficus-indica extract. Extract from the Indian fig or prickly pear cactus that has a small amount of research showing it to have wound-healing properties and anti-inflammatory properties. orange blossom. Fragrant extract that can also be a skin irritant. Orbignya martiana. See babassu oil. Orbignya oleifera. See babassu oil. orchid. Fragrant extract that can be a skin irritant. oregano. Has potent antibacterial and antifungal properties, but can also be a skin irritant. Origanum majorana. See marjoram. Origanum vulgare flower extract. See oregano. ornithine. Primary component of arginine (an amino acid) that shares many of the biopharmacologic effects of arginine, which include enhanced wound healing, particularly with regard to collagen synthesis, when taken orally.Whether ornithine has that effect when applied topically is not known. Orobanche cernua extract. May have antibacterial properties. Orobanche rapum extract. May have antioxidant properties. orris root. Used primarily as a fragrant component due to its violet-like scent. It can cause allergic or sensitizing skin reactions and there is no research showing it to be beneficial for skin. Ortho Tri-Cyclen. Low-dosage type of birth-control pills (generic norgestimate/ethinyl estradiol) approved for use in the United States for the treatment of acne. In Canada, Diane-35, a combination of cyproterone acetate and ethinyl estradiol, is approved for the treatment of acne, other "low-dose birth-control pills can be an effective and safe treatment for moderate acne." The double-blind, placebo-controlled, randomized clinical trial found that the birth-control pill containing levonorgestrel (Alesse) reduced the appearance of acne. Oryza sativa oil. See rice oil.

oryzanol. Component of plants and their products, such as rice bran, that has potent antioxidant properties. osmanthus. Fragrant plant; used in perfumes, it can also be a skin irritant. Oxidoreductases. A large group of enzymes that reduces or blocks oxygen in different forms from generating free-radical damage. oxybenzone. Sunscreen agent that protects primarily from the sun's UVB rays, and some, but not all, UVA rays. See UVA. oxygen. Many cosmetic products contain antioxidants, ingredients that reduce the negative effect of oxygen or oxidative substances on skin. At the same time, the cosmetics industry also sells products that contain hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) or other oxygen-releasing ingredients, which supposedly deliver an oxygen molecule when coming into contact with skin, although that generates free-radical damage. Why the concern about supplying oxygen to the skin? Oxygen depletion is one of the things that happens to older skin, regardless of whether it's been affected by sun damage or any other health-related factor. Why or how that happens is completely unknown, though it is thought to have something to do with blood flow and a reduction in lung capacity as we age. It is also believed that, with age, the issue isn't so much the amount of oxygen but rather a change in the blood's ability to use the oxygen it has. However, when wound healing is a problem, regenerating the tissue often demands, in addition to other factors, increased topical oxygen, because wound repair can be facilitated by oxygen therapy. Yet this method of wound care lacks research showing it to be effective or to be the best option for skin. Oxidative stress is an unavoidable consequence of life in an oxygen-rich atmosphere. The "Oxygen Paradox" is that oxygen is dangerous to the very life forms for which it has become an essential component of energy production. The first defense against oxygen toxicity is the sharp reduction in the amount of oxygen present in cells, from the level present in air of 20% to a tissue concentration of only 3% to 4% oxygen. These relatively low tissue levels of oxygen prevent most oxidative damage from ever occurring. Cells, tissues, organs, and organisms have multiple layers of antioxidant defenses, plus damage replacement and repair systems to cope with the stress and damage that oxygen engenders. See freeradical damage. oxygenated water. Claims regarding the benefit of enhanced oxygenated water are unsubstantiated, and have been debunked by medical, sports, and physiology experts. All water that has been exposed to the air is "oxygenated" to a small extent. This can be increased a small amount by pressurizing the water with oxygen gas, but it adds less oxygen than what is contained in a single breath. Further, once the oxygenated water is exposed to air the oxygen goes back into the atmosphere. ozokerite. Mineral that is used as a thickening agent in cosmetics, especially for lipsticks and stick foundations.

P P. elisabethae. The "P." is short for Pseudopterogorgia. See sea whip extract. PABA. See para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA). padimate O. Sunscreen agent that protects skin primarily from the sun's UVB rays. Padina pavonica extract. See algae. Paeonia albiflora extract. See peony flower. Paeonia suffruticosa extract. See peony root extract. palm glyceride. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester and palm oil. palm oil. Has emollient and antioxidant properties for skin. See antioxidant and natural moisturizing factors. Palmaria palmata extract. Extract from a sea plant whose common name is dulse. See algae. palmarosa oil. See geranium oil. palmitates. Generally these are forms of fatty acids used in cosmetics as thickening agents and emollients.

As is true for any emollient, they can potentially clog pores, depending on the amount used in the product. See fatty acid. palmitic acid. Detergent cleansing agent that also creates foam and can be drying. See surfactant. palmitoyl pentapeptide 3. Trade name Matrixyl. It is a fatty acid mixed with amino acids. The only research showing this to have significance for skin was carried out by the ingredient manufacturer, Sederma. In their research, three different "half-face" studies with a total of about 45 participants showed it to be better than a retinol or vitamin C product. Without independent substantiation, however, there is no way to know how accurate this company-funded research is. Further, according to Sederma's research, the recommended concentration for this ingredient is 3% to 5% and there are few, if any, products using more then just a trace amount in their products. See amino acid and fatty acid. Panax schinseng. See ginseng. Panax ginseng root extract. This root extract may have potent antioxidant properties (potentially anticancer) and may promote wound healing. Whether or not it can have an impact on cellulite is unknown. pansy extract. There is a small amount of research showing it to have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. pantethine. Also known as pantothenic acid. See pantothenic acid. panthenol. Alcohol form of vitamin B. See pantothenic acid. pantothenic acid. Also called vitamin B5, and often touted as being effective for acne. However, there is only one study supporting this notion and it dates from the early 1980s. There is no current research showing this to be an effective treatment for acne, but there is a small amount of research showing that it can be effective for hydration and wound healing. papain. An enzyme extracted from papaya. Applied topically, papain can cause severe irritation, itching, and allergic reactions. There is one study showing it to be effective for exfoliation, but only in pure concentration. Papaver somniferum seed. Latin name for the opium poppy seed. See opium poppy seed. papaya extract. Source of papain that theoretically can have exfoliating properties on skin, though almost none of the research has been performed on skin. Papaya can be a skin irritant. See enzymes. para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA). Sunscreen ingredient rarely used since the 1990s because of strong potential for allergic reactions. parabens. Group of preservatives, including butylparaben, propylparaben, methylparaben, and ethylparaben. They are the most widely used group of preservatives found in cosmetics. It is estimated that more than 90% of all cosmetic products contain some form of paraben. They are considered to cause less irritation than some preservatives. There is research showing that in animal models (and in vitro) parabens can have weak estrogenic activity. Whether that poses any health risk for humans using cosmetics is unknown. The very technical findings of the study, which involved both oral administration and injection into rat skin, did show evidence of a weak estrogen effect on cells in a way that could be problematic for binding to receptor sites that may cause proliferation of MCF-7 breast cancer cells. The study concluded that “future work will need to address the extent to which parabens can accumulate in hormonally sensitive tissues and also the extent to which their weak oestrogenic activity can add to the more general environmental oestrogen problem.” Does this mean you should stop buying products that contain parabens? That’s a good question, but the answer isn’t simple or conclusive, even by the standards of the study itself. This is a potentially serious issue and the FDA is conducting its own research to determine what this means for human health. To keep the concern in perspective, it is important to realize that parabens are hardly the only substances that may have estrogenic effects on the body. Any estrogen, including the estrogen our bodies produce, may bind to receptor sites on cells either strongly or weakly. Either this can stimulate the receptor to imitate the effect of our own estrogen in a positive way, or it can generate an abnormal estrogen response. Ironically, plant estrogens, or phytoestrogens (such as

those found in soy), also produce chemicals that mimic estrogen. It is possible that a weak plant estrogen can help the body, but it can also be possible for a strong plant estrogen to make matters worse. For example, there is research that shows coffee to be a problem for fibrocystic breast disease. The reason for this is thought to be because coffee exerts estrogenic effects on breast cells A study in the Journal of Applied Toxicology mentioned that “although recent reports of the oestrogenic properties of parabens have challenged current concepts of their toxicity in these consumer products, the question remains as to whether any of the parabens can accumulate intact in the body from the long-term, low-dose levels to which humans are exposed.” The study discussed the fact that traces of parabens have indeed been found in human breast tumors, but was quick to point out that it is unknown if this would be the same in healthy breast tissue. Parabens present in tumors may not be the causative factor but rather a result of parabens when cancer cells are present. See preservatives and Paula's article, Problems with Preservatives?. paraffin. Waxy, petroleum-based substance. Used as a thickener for cosmetics. Paraffinum liquidum. See mineral oil. Parietaria officinalis extract. Extract from a plant also known as pellitory. It can have antibacterial properties for skin but also has strong allergic and irritant potential when applied topically. parsley extract. Can have antioxidant properties, but whether it has that effect when applied topically on skin is not known. Parsol 1789. See avobenzone. Passiflora edulis extract. See passion fruit extract. passion fruit extract. There is no research showing this to have benefit for skin. patchouli. Fragrant oil derived from mint. It contains eugenol and can be a skin sensitizer and irritant. See counter-irritant. Paullinia cupana. See guarana. Paullinia cupana seed extract. Also called guarana, it is used primarily in herbal supplements and beverages as a stimulant. In animal studies using mice, it has been shown to affect fat metabolism. There is also research showing that repeated use of guarana can result in persistent increases in heart rate and blood pressure as well as unfavorable actions on glucose and potassium homeostasis. Such effects could be detrimental in persons with hypertension, atherosclerosis, or glucose intolerance—conditions that are strongly associated with obesity. Guarana is sometimes used in cellulite products because of its theophylline and caffeine components. Research has shown it can be absorbed into the skin. Whether or not topical application can affect fat metabolism or have other associated health risks in humans is not known. pawpaw extract. See papaya extract. peanut oil. Emollient plant oil similar to all nonfragrant plant oils. pecan oil. Emollient plant oil similar to all nonfragrant plant oils. pectin. Natural substance found in plants, especially apples, and used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and thickening agent. PEG compound. PEG stands for polyethylene glycol. Various forms of PEG compounds are mixed with fatty acids and fatty alcohols to create a variety of substances that have diverse functions in cosmetics, including surfactants, binding agents (to keep ingredients blended), stabilizers, and emollients. See polyethylene glycol. PEG-100 Stearate. See PEG compound and thickening agent. PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate. See surfactant. PEG-150 distearate. See thickening agent.

PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil. An emollient ingredient that is the polyethylene glycol (PEG) mixture of castor oil. See polyethylene glycol (PEG) and castor oil. PEG-80 sorbitan laurate. Mild surfactant. See surfactant. Pelargonium graveolens oil. See geranium oil. pellitory. See Parietaria officinalis extract. pentadecalactone. Synthetic fragrance used in cosmetics. pentasodium penetate. Used as a chelating agent in cosmetics to prevent varying mineral components from binding together and negatively affecting the formulation. Peony flower. A European flower used topically for treating a variety of skin diseases, including fissures. Evidence of its effectiveness for these purposes is anecdotal. There is not enough known about the effects of peony flower to substantiate its use or safety in cosmetic products. peony root extract. There is research showing that the root of the peony plant can have anticancer properties as well as antioxidant properties. However, there is no research showing it to have that benefit for skin. peppermint. Both the oil and the extract can have antimicrobial properties, but they can also have an irritating, sensitizing effect on skin. peptide. Proteins are comprised of a long chain of amino acids, and individual portions of proteins are known as peptides. In the body, peptides regulate the activity of many systems. This regulation is achieved by interaction of the peptide with a target cell. Enzymatic activity breaks proteins into peptides so they can exert their influence on the body. Some peptides have hormonal activity, others demonstrate immune activity, some are cell-communicating ingredients telling cells how to react and what to do, some are believed to play a role in wound healing, and still others are thought to influence the pathology of skin conditions such as atopic dermatitis and eczema. Whether peptides can have benefit when applied topically to skin for wound healing, skin barrier repair, or as disinfectants is difficult to ascertain, as they generally cannot penetrate skin and remain stable because they are considered too hydrophilic, or water-loving. Ironically, peptides can become unstable in waterbased formulas. Further, because peptides are vulnerable to the presence of enzymes, when peptides are absorbed, the abundant enzymes present in skin can break the peptides down to the point where they have no effect. However, the latest research is examining how different types of synthesized peptides can enter the living membrane of cells and, more interesting, transport biologically active ingredients to these cells. Some of these peptides have demonstrated a remarkable anti-inflammatory effect. Creating specific peptide chains in the lab and then attaching a fatty acid component to them allows peptides to overcome their inherent limitations: absorbing and staying stable. Lab-engineered peptides appear to have the kind of efficacy and benefit that goes beyond the skin’s surface, but more conclusive, long-term research is essential to understanding what, if anything, is really taking place. It is reasonable to assume that as synthetic peptide technology broadens, we will see more options for use in skin-care products promoting anti-aging properties, specifically, tissue regeneration. In order for these specialized peptides to exert a benefit beyond that of a water-binding agent, three criteria must be met: the peptides must be stable in their base formula, they must be paired with a carrier that enhances absorption into the skin, and they must be able to reach their target cell groups without breaking down. Achieving this goal is no easy feat, but one that cosmetic scientists are predicting will have significant potential in the realm of anti-aging skin-care ingredients. perfluoropolymethylisopropyl ether. Film-forming agent. See film-forming agent. Perilla ocymoides oil. Derived from the seeds of the Perilla ocymoides plant. Perilla contains multiple flavones and the oil is high in alpha-linolenic acid. It has antioxidant and anti-cancer properties; however it may also be a significant skin irritant. periwinkle extract. There is no research showing this extract to have benefit for skin. It is not to be

confused with Madagascar periwinkle, Catharanthus roseus, that has anti-tumor properties. However, Madagascar periwinkle is considered toxic and has limited use for cancer treatment. Persea gratissima oil. See avocado oil. petitgrain mandarin. See mandarin orange oil or extract. petrolatum. Vaseline is pure petrolatum. For some unknown and unsubstantiated reason, petrolatum has attained a negative image in regard to skin care, despite good research to the contrary. Topical application of petrolatum can help the skin's outer layer recover from damage, reduce inflammation, and generally heal the skin. Pfaffia paniculata extract. Also known as suma extract and Brazilian ginseng. There is a small amount of research showing it to have anti-inflammatory properties. PHA. See polyhydroxy acid. Phellodendron amurense extract. Extract of the Amur corktree; it can have anti-inflammatory and antifungal benefits. phenoxyethanol. Common cosmetic preservative that is considered one of the less irritating ones to use in formulations. It does not release formaldehyde. See preservatives. phenyl trimethicone. Silicone with a drier finish than dimethicone. See silicone. phenylalanine. See amino acid. phosphatidylcholine. The active ingredient found in lecithin. Every cell membrane in the body requires phosphatidylcholine (PC). It is also a major source of the neurotransmitter acetylcholine. Acetylcholine is used by the brain in areas that are involved in long-term planning, concentration, and focus. But all of this information is associated with ingesting PC, not putting it on the skin. PC is considered a very good waterbinding agent and aids in the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It absorbs well without feeling greasy or heavy (though other ingredients can perform similarly, including glycerin, ceramides, and hyaluronic acid). phosphatidylethanolamine. See cephalin. phospholipid. Type of lipid (fat) composed of glycerol, fatty acids, and phosphate. Phospholipids are essential to the function of cell membranes by providing a stable surrounding structure. Lecithin is an example of a phosopholipid. See glyceryl ester and natural moisturizing factors. phosphoric acid. Used as a pH adjuster in cosmetic and skin-care products. photosensitizer. Ingredients that can cause the skin to have an irritated or inflamed reaction when exposed to sunlight. Phyllanthus emblica fruit extract. Has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. phytantriol. A hair- and skin-conditioning agent that also has water-binding properties. phytic acid. A component of plants that has antioxidant properties. phytoalexins. Antimicrobial substances that are produced by a plant in response to infection by fungi or bacteria and that help to defend the plant by inhibiting the growth of invading microbes. Phytoalexins can also be potent antioxidants, and the combination of those two properties is thought to have benefit for skin, particularly for wound healing. How that relates to daily skin care or wrinkles is unknown, but it is probably a good antioxidant for skin. phytoestrogen. See plant estrogen. phytol. Subcomponent of vitamin E and also a component of chlorophyll. It has antioxidant properties, but there is limited research about phytol having any effect on skin.

phytonadione. See vitamin K. Phytoplenolin. Trade name for the plant extract Centipeda cunninghami. See Centipeda cunninghami extract. Phytosphingosine. A long-chain, complex fatty alcohol that functions as a water-binding agent and also has preservative qualities. Its name is derived from the term sphingoid, coined by chemist J.L.W. Thudichum in 1884 because the way the molecules of this substance lined up reminded him of the riddle of the Sphinx. phytosterol. Cholesterol-like molecules found in all plant foods, with the highest concentrations occurring in vegetable oils. Phytosterols in the natural diet may lower cholesterol. However, regarding topical application, there is research showing that the high lipid content of phytosterols can make the skin extremely sensitive to light. pilewort extract. See Ranunculus ficaria extract. Pimpinella anisum. See anise. pine cone extract. Components of this extract, specifically linolenic and linoleic acid, can have antioxidant properties and antibacterial properties for skin. pine needle extract. See pine oil. pine oil. Can have disinfectant properties, but it can also be a potent skin irritant and should never be used on abraded or chafed skin. pineapple extract. Contains the enzyme bromelain, which can break down the connecting layers between skin cells to exfoliate skin. However, bromelain used alone is a more effective source of exfoliation, without the other irritating properties of the pineapple. See bromelain. Pinus lambertiana wood extract. Pine extract that may have skin-sensitizing properties. Pinus sylvestris extract. See pine cone extract. Piper nigrum. See black pepper. pistachio seed oil. An emollient plant oil with uses similar to peanut oil in cosmetics. Pistacia vera seed oil. See pistachio seed oil. Pisum sativum. The Latin name for the garden pea, and while it does have antioxidant activity there is no research showing if it can reduce cellulite. placenta. The nourishing lining of the womb that protects and supports human and animal fetuses during prenatal development. The placenta is linked to the uterus and regulates metabolic changes. Placenta does not have anti-aging or rejuvenating effects on skin. placenta extract. Obtained from the afterbirth of animals, it is supposed to have rejuvenating properties for skin, but this claim has never been proven in research of any kind. Much like any part of a human or animal body, the placenta is a source of proteins and amino acids that have water-binding and antioxidant properties. These are helpful for skin, but no more so than hundreds of other ingredients with similar or superior attributes. Due to the concern about Mad Cow Disease, ingredients of this nature are best avoided. placenta protein. Protein that works like other proteins on skin, regardless of the source. It is just a good water-binding agent. See placenta, and protein. placental enzymes. Obtained from either human or animal placentas. See placenta extract and placental protein. placental lipid. A lipid obtained from either human or animal placentas. See placenta extract and placental protein.

placental protein. Obtained from either human or animal placentas, and used in cosmetics with varying, though completely unsubstantiated, claims about miraculous effects on skin. Animal- and human-derived ingredients are prohibited from use under the provisions of the European Union Cosmetics Directive . For animal-derived ingredients, this directive is based on concerns about transmission of bovine spongiform encephalopathy (Mad Cow Disease); for human-derived ingredients the concern is viral diseases such as human immunodeficiency virus (HIV). There is no way to know from a cosmetic ingredient label what the source of the extract is. See placenta extract. plant estrogen. Current understanding regarding oral supplements of plant estrogens is that they may work by interfering with the body's own estrogen, thus preventing it from being out of balance. Plant estrogens may fool the body into thinking it has the right balance of this hormone by filling the receptor areas on cells sensitive to human estrogen. If the body has too much estrogen, the plant estrogen may prevent the body from using it (thereby preventing estrogen-related cancers); if the body has too little estrogen (as during the stages of menopause), plant estrogen might make the body think it has more, thus reducing some of the more uncomfortable side effects. There is little information about how much estrogen-laden food a woman must consume (and for how long) to reduce or eliminate the effects of menopause. In other words, adding estrogen-rich foods or supplements to your diet won't necessarily prevent breast cancer, heart attack, osteoporosis, or hot flashes. There are also studies that have shown no improvement or benefit from dietary estrogens, although these were hardly sweeping or conclusive reviews. Clearly, this is a health issue that needs to be examined more closely. But what about plant estrogens used in creams and applied topically? There is no research showing that plant estrogens can provide any benefit when applied topically to skin. But even if there were a benefit, how much would you need to rub on your skin to obtain it? Moreover, when it comes to cosmetics or skin-care products, there is no way to know how much of a plant estrogen extract is being used, or how active it remains in a manufactured product. More to the point, because the cosmetics and natural-supplement industries are not regulated, there is no way to really know what you are getting. plasticizing agents. Ingredients that place a thin layer of plastic over the skin; typically these are used in facial masks so they can be peeled off the skin. See film-forming agent. plum extract. Extract of Prunus americana that may have antioxidant activity when applied topically. Plumeria alba flower extract. Used as a fragrance in cosmetics. Pogostemon cablin. See patchouli. Polianthes tuberosa extract. Limited research has shown that the extract from this tuberous plant can have water-binding and antioxidant properties. poloxamers. See surfactant. polyacrylamide. See film-forming agent. Polybutene. A polymer derived from mineral oil and used as a thickener and lubricant. polycaprolactone. Biodegradable thermoplastic polymer derived from the chemical synthesis of crude oil. It may have application in supporting skin-tissue growth for the purposes of skin grafts. polyethylene glycol. Also listed as PEG on ingredient labels, polyethylene glycol is an ingredient that selfproclaimed "natural" Web sites have attempted to make notorious and evil. They gain a great deal of attention by attributing horror stories to PEG, associating it with antifreeze (however, antifreeze is ethylene glycol, not polyethylene glycol), and there is no research indicating that PEG compounds pose any problem for skin. Quite the contrary: PEGs have no known skin toxicity and can be used on skin with great results. The only negative research for this ingredient indicates that large quantities given orally to rats can cause tumors, but that is unrelated to topical application. Polyethylene, when it is not combined with glycol, is the most common form of plastic used in the world. It is flexible and has a smooth, waxy feel. When ground up, the small particles are used in scrubs as a gentle abrasive. When mixed with glycol, it becomes a viscous liquid. In the minuscule amounts used in cosmetics, it helps keep products stable and performs functions similar to glycerin. Because polyethylene glycol can

penetrate skin, it is also a vehicle that helps deliver other ingredients deeper into the skin. It is even used internally in medical procedures to flush and clean the intestinal tract. See propylene glycol. polyglucuronic acid. See film-forming agent. polyglycerol monostearate. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester. polyglycerol polyricinoleate. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester. polyglyceryl methacrylate. See film-forming agent. polyglyceryl-2 caprate. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester. polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate. See glyceryl ester. Polygonum cuspidatum root extract. Extract of the Japanese knotweed plant. When eaten it may have weak estrogenic activity and antitumor activity. It also has antioxidant properties. polyhydroxy acid. Because alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) may be irritating to skin, the search for an effective form of AHA or an extra ingredient that can enhance performance and reduce irritation is an active issue. Gluconolactone and lactobionic acid are types of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that are supposed to be as effective as AHAs but less irritating (NeoStrata is the company that holds the patent on glycolic acid as an antiwrinkle agent, as well as a patent for gluconolactone for reducing the appearance of wrinkles). Gluconolactone and lactobionic acid are chemically and functionally similar to AHAs. The significant difference between them is that gluconolactone and lactobionic acid have larger molecular structures, which limits their ability to penetrate into the skin, resulting in a reduction of irritating side-effects. This reduced absorption into the skin supposedly doesn't hamper their effectiveness. Does that mean gluconolactone and lactobionic acid are better for your skin than AHAs in the form of glycolic acid or lactic acid? According to an Internet-published class lecture by Dr. Mark G. Rubin, a board-certified dermatologist and assistant clinical professor of dermatology at the University of California, San Diego, research on gluconolactone demonstrated only a "6% decrease in dermal penetration" in comparison to glycolic acid, which "isn't a dramatic improvement." Gluconolactone may be slightly less irritating for some skin types but this isn't quite the magic bullet for exfoliation that beauty magazines and some cosmetics companies have been extolling. There is no independent research information available about lactobionic acid. polyhydroxysteatic acid. Synthetic polymer related to stearic acid and functions as a suspending agent. polyquaterniums. Group of ingredients used primarily in hair-care products due to their antistatic and filmforming properties. They can have water-binding properties for skin due to the sheer "plastic" film layer they create on skin. polysaccharide. Natural component of skin that can be a good water-binding agent and potentially have antioxidant properties. See mucopolysaccharide and natural moisturizing factors. Polysorbate-20. See polysorbates. polysorbates. Fatty acids that are used as emollients and thickening agents in cosmetics. See fatty acid. polyvinyl alcohol. See plasticizing agents. polyvinylpyrrolidone. Usually listed on ingredient labels as PVP or PVP copolymer, it is one of the primary ingredients used in hairstyling products to hold hair in place. When present in minuscule amounts in skincare products, it places an imperceptible film over the skin that is considered to be water-binding and that helps give the appearance of firmer skin. It can be a skin sensitizer for some individuals. See film-forming agent. pomegranate extract. Contains ellagic acid, and is considered effective as an anticarcinogen and antioxidant when taken orally. There is no research showing what effect, if any, this extract can have on skin. Pongamia glabra seed oil. Has antimicrobial properties.

Pongamia pinnata extract. Can have anti-inflammatory properties. poppy seeds. Can have analgesic properties when applied topically. Poria cocos extract. Derived from a mushroom, this extract has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Also known as Hoelen and Fu ling. Porphyra umbilicalis. Form of seaweed. See algae. Porphyridium cruentum. Type of red algae. See algae. Porphyridium cruentum extract. This extract is derived from a type of red algae. There is research showing components of red algae contain the omega-3 fatty acid eicosapentaenoic, the omega-6 fatty acid arachidonic acid, and other skin-friendly ingredients such as polysaccharides. Whether or not the entire red algae extract provides benefit on skin is not known. Portulaca Oleracea extract. May have anti-inflammatory or analgesic properties. potassium. Important in diet and present in such fruits and bananas and citrus. It is also an earth mineral that has absorbent properties and some disinfecting properties, but can also be a skin irritant. potassium cetyl phosphate. Used as a detergent cleansing agent. See surfactant. potassium hydroxide. Also known as lye, it's a highly alkaline ingredient used in small amounts in cosmetics to modulate the pH of a product. It is also used as a cleansing agent in some cleansers. In higher concentrations it is a significant skin irritant. potassium myristate. Detergent cleansing agent that is a constituent of soap; it can be drying and sensitizing for some skin types. See surfactant. potassium thiocyanate. Chemically, a salt that can be a potent skin irritant, though it can also have antibacterial properties for skin. Potentilla erecta root extract. Can have anti-inflammatory properties, though there is minimal research showing this to be the case. Poterium officinale root extract. Derived from the garden burnet plant. See Sanguisorba officinalis. PPG-12 buteth-16. Versatile ingredient composed of several non-volatile alcohols. Functions as a skinconditioning agent, emulsifier, solvent, and surfactant. PPG-14 butyl ether. Used as a hair- and skin-conditioning agent. PPG-2 myristyl ether propionate. A mixture of glycols and fatty alcohols used as a skin-conditioning agent and, in some cases, as a thickening agent. pregnenolone acetate. Precursor to other hormones, it can affect levels of progesterone and estrogen in the body when taken orally. When applied to skin it may work as a water-binding agent. There is no information about whether absorption of this through skin is possible. preservatives. Substances used in cosmetics to prevent bacterial and microbial contamination of products. While there is definitely a risk of irritation from these types of ingredients, the risk to skin and eyes from using a contaminated product is considered by many scientists to be even greater. prickly pear extract. There is no research showing it to be effective for skin when applied topically, though it may have water-binding properties. primrose. See Primula veris extract. Primula veris extract. Derived from primrose or cowslip plants. It has no known benefit for skin, though it does contain flavones and may have antioxidant properties.

pristane. Technically tetramethylpentadecane or pentadecane. It is a component of mineral oil, shark oil, or plant oil. It is used as an emollient in cosmetics. progesterone USP. A study published in the American Journal of Obstetrics and Gynecology (June 1999, pages 1504–1511) states that "In order to obtain the proper (effective) serum levels with use of a progesterone cream, the cream needs to have an adequate amount of progesterone in it [at least 30 milligrams per gram]. Many over the counter creams have little [for example, 5 milligrams per ounce] or none at all. The creams that are made from Mexican yams are not metabolized to progesterone by women. The cream used in the above study (Pro-Gest) contains pure United States Pharmacopoeia [USP] progesterone." Dr. John Lee, an author and longtime proponent of topically applied progesterone, explains that "The USP progesterone used for hormone replacement comes from plant fats and oils, usually a substance called diosgenin, which is extracted from a very specific type of wild yam that grows in Mexico, or from soybeans. In the laboratory, diosgenin is chemically synthesized into real human progesterone. Some companies are trying to sell … ‘wild yam extract' [or other plant extracts] … claiming that the body will then convert it into hormones as needed. While we know this can be done in the laboratory, there is no evidence that this conversion takes place in the human body." Dr. Lee is quick to explain that he doesn't sell any of these products and receives no profit from their sale. He also does not recommend the use of natural progesterone creams with any other active hormones or herbs. prolamine extract. Protein that has water-binding and antioxidant properties. proline. See amino acid. propagermanium. See germanium. propolis. Brownish, resinous material that is collected by bees and used to construct the hive. It has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties for skin. Propylene Carbonate. Liquid used as a solvent and film-forming agent. See film-forming agent. propylene glycol. Along with other glycols and glycerol, this is a humectant or humidifying and delivery ingredient used in cosmetics. There are Web sites and spam e-mails stating that propylene glycol is really industrial antifreeze and that it is the major ingredient in brake and hydraulic fluids. These sites also state that tests show it to be a strong skin irritant. They further point out that the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) on propylene glycol warns users to avoid skin contact because systemically (in the body) it can cause liver abnormalities and kidney damage. As ominous as this sounds, it is so far from the reality of cosmetic formulations that almost none of it holds any water or poses real concern. It is important to realize that the MSDS sheets are talking about 100% concentrations of a substance. Even water and salt have frightening comments regarding their safety according to the MSDS. In cosmetics propylene glycol is used in only the smallest amounts to keep products from melting in high heat or freezing when it is cold. It also helps active ingredients penetrate the skin. In the minute amounts used in cosmetics, it is not a concern in the least. Women are not suffering from liver problems because of propylene glycol in cosmetics. And finally, according to the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services, within the Public Health Services Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry, "studies have not shown these chemicals [propylene or the other glycols as used in cosmetics] to be carcinogens". Propylene Glycol Stearate. Mixture of propylene glycol and stearic acid used as a skin-conditioning agent and emulsifier. See propylene glycol and stearic acid. propylparaben. See parabens. proteases. Enzymes that are part of a process that causes the breakdown of amino acids and proteins in skin. There is research showing that proteases, when applied topically to skin, can reduce the visible scaling associated with dry, flaky skin. Whether proteases can be of benefit for wound healing when applied topically is unclear. protein. Proteins are fundamental components of all living cells and include a diverse range of biological substances, such as enzymes, hormones, and antibodies, that are necessary for the proper functioning of any organism, plant, or animal. The human body contains perhaps 100,000 different proteins, each composed of an assortment of 20 or so amino acids. The sequence of these amino acids determines the unique properties of each protein, such as, for example, its role as an enzyme acting as a catalyst for a specific biochemical reaction. If even one of the essential amino acids is missing, the protein cannot be

formed. This fact is well known to nutritionists because ensuring an adequate supply of essential amino acids is important in determining the nutritional value of proteins in the diet. Components of proteins can have varying benefits for skin, but overall they are used for their water-binding and emollient properties. Protol. Trade name for mineral oil. See mineral oil. prune seed extract. In large enough amounts can have antioxidant properties. Prunella vulgaris. See self-heal. Prunus americana. See plum extract. Prunus domestica seed extract. See plum extract. Prunus dulcis. See almond oil. Pseudopterogorgia elisabethae. See sea whip extract. Psidium guajava. See guava extract. Pueraria lobata. See kudzu root. pullulan. Produced by black yeast, pullulan is a glucan gum that contains polysaccharides, which makes it a good water-binding agent, thickening agent, and antioxidant. See beta-glucan and mucopolysaccharide. Punica granatum extract. See pomegranate. purified water. See deionized water. PVM/MA decadiene crosspolymer. A synthetic polymer used as a film-forming and thickening agent. PVP. See polyvinylpyrrolidone. PVP copolymer. See polyvinylpyrrolidone. PVP/dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate. A polymer formed from PVP (polyvinylpyrrolidone) and the filmforming agent dimethylaminomethacrylate. See film-forming agent and polyvinylpyrrolidone. pycnogenol. There is a great deal of research on pycnogenol, a plant-derived substance found in everything from pine bark to apples, cocoa beans, unripe strawberries, peanut skin, grape seeds, and red wine. However, most of the research dates back to 1990 and earlier "Plant Extract with a Proanthocyanidins Content as Therapeutic Agent Having Radical Scavenging Effect and Use Thereof"). There are studies supporting the notion that pycnogenol is a potent antioxidant with strong free-radical-scavenging properties. However, there isn't any research showing that it will have any effect on wrinkles. See antioxidant. pyridoxine hydrochloride (HCL). Scientific name for vitamin B6; may have antibacterial and antioxidant benefits for skin when applied topically. Pyrus cydonia. See quince seed.

Q quaternium-15. Formaldehyde-releasing preservative used in cosmetics. It can be a skin sensitizer, as can all preservatives. quaternium-18 hectorite. Used as a suspending agent and also has emulsifying properties. quercus. See oak root extract. Quercus infectoria extract. See oak root extract. quillaja extract. Extract of the Chilean soap bark tree. It contains a good amount of saponins, which have cleansing, antimicrobial, and water-binding properties for skin. See saponin.

quince seed. Used as a thickening agent in cosmetics, but it also has skin-constricting properties and may cause skin irritation. quinoa oil. Derived from quinoa grain; it may have antifungal properties. It may also have emollient properties for skin, but there is little research showing this to be the case.

R Ranunculus ficaria extract. May have antibacterial and antifungal properties and is used in the treatment of hemorrhoids. However, applied topically it can cause skin irritation and may also cause photodermatitis. rapeseed oil. Nonfragrant oil that has emollient and potential antioxidant properties for skin. Raspberry Seed Extract. See red raspberry extract. Raspberry Seed Oil. See red raspberry extract. Ravensara oil. A plant oil. There is a small amount of research showing it to have antifungal properties, and when tested on insect larvae it showed antimutagenic properties. red algae. See algae. red clover. Can have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory. It is sold as an herbal supplement for relief of menopausal symptoms such as hot flashes and vaginal dryness. Red clover does contain high concentrations of four major isoflavones that have been shown to have estrogenic properties. However, in studies red clover was found to be no better than placebo for menopausal symptoms. red raspberry extract. Fruit extract that has potent antioxidant properties and antibacterial properties. It can also cause irritation due to its tannin content. red sandalwood. Has a phytoestrogen component (, but it can also be a skin irritant. reducing agent. Substances that have the ability to split or break down the disulfide bonds of hair. Therefore, they are typically used in hair-straightening or hair-waving products and in depilatories. The chemical reaction they generate has antioxidant properties, but they can also be strong skin irritants. Rehmannia chinensis root extract. From the plant also known as Chinese foxglove; there is no research showing it to have benefit for skin. Rehmannia glutinosa. Chinese herb known as Di huang that has no known benefit for skin. Renova. See Retin-A and tretinoin. resorcinol. Considered an effective topical disinfectant in concentrations of 1% to 3%. However, there is also research showing it to be overly irritating for skin. As a result it is rarely used nowadays for treating blemishes. respiratory enzyme. Type of enzyme that interacts with several other biological and physiological processes for the activation and use of oxygen in the body. There is no evidence that any respiratory enzyme can do anything topically for skin. Resveratrol. A potent polyphenolic antioxidant that is abundant in red grapes and therefore red wine (unfortunately not white wine). Resveratrol has been reported in numerous studies to be one of the most potent, natural chemopreventive agents inhibiting the cellular processes associated with tumor development, including initiation, promotion, and progression. It also has significant anti-inflammatory properties. Conversely, there is research showing it to be associated with cell death when applied topically if skin is exposed to sunlight Retin-A. One of several prescription-only drugs (others include Renova, Retin-A Micro, and Avita) that contain tretinoin (technically, all-trans retinoic acid), which is the acid form of vitamin A, as the active ingredient. In skin, tretinoin is the form of vitamin A that can actually affect cell production by binding to the tretinoin receptor sites on the cell. There is a great deal of research establishing that when skin has been damaged (often by exposure to sunlight) tretinoin is effective in improving cell production. Tretinoin is a valid method for addressing wrinkles and, overall, for improving cell production. Applying tretinoin doesn't produce

miraculous results, but the positive outcome in terms of skin health is indisputable. However, it is highly possible that using tretinoin on the skin will cause irritation, which is a major drawback of this drug. See tretinoin. retinol. If the layers of connective tissue beneath the skin on the thighs are indeed the main cause of cellulite (along with excess or poorly formed fat deposits) then improving skin structure should, theoretically, make a difference. There is growing evidence proving this to be the case. Retinol (the entire vitamin A molecule) is one of the ingredients known to help improve skin structure. Of all the ingredients to look for in a cellulite product this should be at the top of the list. However, most cellulite products contain teeny amounts of retinol (at best) and are often in packaging that won’t keep this air-sensitive ingredient stable. One other point: Johnson & Johnson has a study showing the combination of retinol, caffeine, and ruscogenine can reduce the appearance of cellulite. Of course J&J-owned companies RoC and Neutrogena both sell cellulite products with that combination of ingredients. retinyl palmitate. Form of vitamin A. It is a combination of retinol (pure vitamin A) and palmitic acid. There is research showing it to be effective as an antioxidant and skin-cell regulator. rhatany. See Krameria triandra extract. Rhus succedanea. See Japan wax. riboflavin. See Japan wax. riboflavin. See vitamin B2. ribonucleic acid. See RNA. rice bran oil. Emollient oil similar to other nonfragrant plant oils. There is no research showing this to have superior benefit for skin. rice oil. Emollient similar to other nonfragrant plant oils. There is no research showing this to have superior benefit for skin. rice starch. Absorbent substance sometimes used instead of talc. It can cause allergic reactions and, because it is a food derivative (as opposed to a mineral derivative like talc), it can support bacterial growth in pores. ricinoleate. Glyceryl triester used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and emollient. Ricinus communis. See castor oil. RNA. Ribonucleic acid is a single strand of molecules, exactly copied from DNA in the cell nucleus, that is required for the body's production of protein. This single strand is a linear, ladder-like sequence of nucleotide bases (chemicals that form its structure) that corresponds precisely to the sequence of bases in the DNA strand (the core of the body's genetic makeup). RNA in a skin-care product is useless because it cannot affect a cell's genetic elements. The production of DNA and RNA is an extremely complex process that requires a multitude of proteins and enzymes to have its effect on the body's genetic material. It is also doubtful that you would ever want to put anything on your skin that could affect your genetic material, and particularly not via a cosmetic that has no safety or efficacy regulations. Robinia pseudacacia extract. See black locust extract. rockrose oil. See labdanum oil. Rosa canina. See rose hip oil. Rosa centifolia. See rose hip oil. Rosa damascena oil. A very fragrant pink rose, used as fragrance in cosmetics. Rosa eglanteria. See rose hip oil.

Rosa gallica flower extract. Fragrant extract. Rosa mosqueta. See rose hip oil. Rosa roxburghii extract. Extract from the chestnut rose; can be a source of antioxidants for skin, and does not impart fragrance. Rosa rubiginosa. See rose hip oil. rose flower. Highly fragrant substance that can be a skin irritant. rose flower oil. Fragrant, volatile oil that can be a skin irritant and sensitizer. There is no research showing this to have any benefit for skin. rose hip. Seed-containing part of a rose. See rose hip oil and vitamin C. rose hip oil. Good emollient oil that has antioxidant properties. rose of Jericho extract. Extract from an annual desert plant with the scientific name Anastatica hierochuntica. It has hygroscopic properties, meaning it can absorb moisture from the air. There is no research showing this extract to have benefit for skin. rose oil. Fragrant, volatile oil that can be a skin irritant and sensitizer. rosemary extract. Can have antioxidant benefit for skin, but its aromatic components can cause irritation, sensitizing, or toxic reactions on skin. rosemary oil. See rosemary extract. roseroot. See Sedum rosea root extract. Rosmarinus officinalis extract. See rosemary extract. royal jelly. Milky white, thick substance secreted by worker bees that has been shown to have some immune-modulating benefits. The myriad other claims about royal jelly being able to prevent wrinkles and heal acne are all anecdotal, and have no research to substantiate them. Rubus idaeus. See red raspberry extract. Rubus laciniatus. See blackberry. Rubus occidentalis. See black raspberry. Rubus suavissimus extract. Derived from the Chinese blackberry. Most likely, as is true for most berries, this fruit extract has antioxidant properties. However, there is no research proving this to be the case. Rubus ursinus x idaeus. See boysenberry. Rubus ursinus. See marionberry. Ruscogenine. An extract from the plant butcher’s broom, some research has shown it to be effective when taken orally for improving the function of veins and capillaries. Whether or not it has benefit topically for cellulite isn’t supported by independent research. Ruscus aculeatus. See butcher's broom extract. rutin. Bioflavonoid that is extracted from various plants and used as an antioxidant and emollient

S saccharide isomerate. Good water-binding agent and emollient for skin. See mucopolysaccharide. saccharides. See mucopolysaccharide. Saccharomyces cerevisiae. Saccharomyces, from the Latin, literally means “sugar fungus,” and is the

scientific name for the yeasts used in fermentation, specifically Baker's yeast. It is the simplest single-cell organism that operates in a manner similar to human cells and is therefore an important organism used in genetic and molecular biology research. The Saccharomyces cerevisiae genome has been sequenced. There are many versions of this fungus fermented with various compounds. Cosmetic ingredient manufacturers extol this yeast as having significant properties for skin but there is little independent research supporting its use on skin. However, some extracts of yeast, such as beta-glucan (a potent antioxidant) is derived from yeast. Saccharomyces lysate. See yeast. Saccharomyces calcium ferment. Extract of yeast fermented in the presence of calcium ions. There is no known benefit for skin. Saccharomyces copper ferment. Saccharomyces, from the Latin, literally means “sugar fungus,” and is the scientific name for the yeasts used in fermentation. There are many versions of this fungus fermented with various compounds; this version is fermented in the presence of copper ions. There is no known benefit for skin, though it may have antioxidant properties. Saccharomyces iron ferment. Extract of yeast fermented in the presence of iron ions. See Saccharomyces copper ferment. Saccharomyces magnesium ferment. The extract of yeast fermented in the presence of magnesium ions. See Saccharomyces copper ferment. Saccharomyces manganese ferment. The extract of yeast fermented in the presence of manganese ions. See Saccharomyces copper ferment. Saccharomyces officinarum ferment. Derived from the sugarcane plant. Glycolic acid is also derived from sugarcane, but sugarcane extract does not have the same exfoliating properties as glycolic acid. There is no research showing sugarcane extract has any benefit for skin. See AHA. Saccharomyces potassium ferment. Extract of yeast fermented in the presence of potassium ions. See Saccharomyces copper ferment. Saccharomyces silicon ferment. Extract of yeast fermented in the presence of silicon ions. See Saccharomyces copper ferment. Saccharomyces zinc ferment. Extract of yeast fermented in the presence of zinc ions. See Saccharomyces copper ferment. safflower oil. Emollient plant oil similar to all nonfragrant plant oils. Safflower oil can be an antioxidant when consumed in the diet, but whether it retains this benefit when applied topically to skin is unknown. See natural moisturizing factors. sage extract. Can be a potent antioxidant. However, its fragrant camphor and phenol components can also cause skin irritation. salicin. See willow bark. salicylic acid. Referred to as beta hydroxy acid (BHA), it is a multifunctional ingredient that addresses many of the systemic causes of blemishes. For decades dermatologists have been prescribing salicylic acid as an exceedingly effective keratolytic (exfoliant), but it also is an anti-irritant This is because salicylic acid is a derivative of aspirin (both are salicylates—aspirin’s technical name is acetyl salicylic acid), and so it also functions as an anti-inflammatory.Another notable aspect of salicylic acid for treating breakouts is that it has antimicrobial properties. It is also well documented that it can improve skin thickness, barrier functions, and collagen production. As an exfoliant, in concentrations of 8% to 12%, it is effective in wart-remover medications. In concentrations of 0.5% to 2%, it is far more gentle, and, much like AHAs (See AHAs), can exfoliate the surface of skin. In addition, BHA has the ability to penetrate into the pore (AHAs do not), and thus can exfoliate inside the pore as well on the surface of the skin; that makes it effective for reducing blemishes, including blackheads and whiteheads. Salix alba extract. See willow bark.

Salvia officinalis. See sage extract. Sambucus canadensis. See elderberry. Sambucus cerulea. Blue elderberry. May have antioxidant properties for skin. Sambucus nigra. See black elderberry. sandalwood oil. Fragrant oil that can cause skin irritation or allergic reactions. Sang zhi. Derived from twigs of the mulberry tree. It has some effectiveness for reducing skin swelling. sanguinaria. See bloodroot. Sanguisorba officinalis. Latin name for salad burnet. There is a small amount of research showing it to have antioxidant properties for skin. Santalum album. See sandalwood oil. Santalum album seed extract. Is the Latin name for sandalwood extract and is used in cosmetics as a fragrance. It can have antioxidant properties and there is research showing it minimizes herpes breakouts. It also can be a skin irritant or sensitizer. Sapindus mukurossi extract. Derived from a plant indigenous to India, and known for its detergent cleansing properties. See saponin. Saponaria officinalis extract. See soapwort. saponin. Group of natural carbohydrates found in plants that have considerable potential as pharmaceutical and/or nutraceutical agents in natural or synthetic form. Saponins, from a variety of sources, have been shown to have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activity. Sargassum filipendula extract. See algae. saturated fat. Type of fat usually of animal origin. Chemically, when fatty acid chains can’t accommodate any more hydrogen atoms, they are considered saturated, as in saturated fatty acids. These are used as emollient in skin-care products. Saussurea lappa. See costus root. sausurrea oil. Costus oil. Volatile oil and fragrant component used in cosmetics; it can be a skin irritant. It is known to cause contact dermatitis. saw palmetto. Plant extract that, when taken orally, has been shown in short-term trials to be efficacious in reducing the symptoms of benign prostatic hyperplasia. It may have an anti-inflammatory effect on skin, but there is little research supporting this. Saw palmetto’s reputation is primarily based on the fact that it can reduce the presence of the male hormone dihydrotestosterone, and so it could theoretically reduce hair loss, but this effect has not been proven. There is some anecdotal information that it can also have estrogenic effects; but not only is that unlikely, it is highly improbable that it could have such effects when applied topically. Saxifraga sarmentosa extract. See strawberry begonia. sclareolide. Fermented from clary sage and used as a fragrant component in cosmetics. sclerotium gum. Used as a thickening agent in cosmetics. scullcap extract. Herbal extract from Scutellaria baicalensis that has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties for skin. Scutellaria baicalensis extract. See scullcap extract.

SD alcohol. See alcohol. SD Alcohol 40-2. A denatured alcohol used as a solvent. It can be drying and irritating to skin when used as one of the main ingredients in a cosmetic product. Lesser amounts are not cause for concern. See alcohol. sea salt. Can be effective as a topical scrub, but if left on skin it can increase skin sensitivity to UVB radiation. sea whip extract. Extract from a creature that inhabits coral reefs, known for its anti-inflammatory properties and antibacterial properties. Seamollient. Trade name for an algae extract. See algae. seaweed. Group of sea plants (scientific name algae) of all sizes and shapes, and having a gelatin-like consistency. Many seaweeds have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, but many other claims of benefits are not proven. See algae. sebaceous glands. Glands in the skin that open into hair follicles and from which sebum (oil) is secreted. sebacic acid. Used as a pH adjuster. Sechium edule extract. Extract of the chayote plant. There is a small amount of research showing it to have antioxidant properties. Sedum rosea root extract. Plant extract; there is no research showing it to have any benefit for skin. selenium. Mineral considered to be a potent antioxidant. self-heal. Plant that has antihistamine, anti-inflammatory, antiviral, and antioxidant properties when taken orally. However, there is no research demonstrating this to be of benefit for skin when applied topically. Sequoiadendron gigantea stem extract. Extract from part of the giant sequoia tree. There is no research showing this extract to have any benefit for skin. Serenoa Serrulata extract. See saw palmetto. sericin. Scientific name for silk protein. See silk protein. serine. See amino acid. serum protein. See protein. sesame oil. Emollient oil similar to other nonfragrant plant oils. See natural moisturizing factors. Sesamum indicum. See sesame oil. sesquioleate. Used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and emollient. Shao-yao. See peony root extract. shea butter. A plant lipid that is used as an emollient in cosmetics. See natural moisturizing factors. shikonin. Common name for the Chinese plant Zi Cao, source of a plant extract with supposedly antiinflammatory properties. There is no research substantiating its effect on skin. Shorea stenoptera butter. Fat obtained from the Borneo tallow nut. It is similar to cocoa and shea butter, and has emollient properties for skin. Siegesbeckia orientalis. Chinese herb (also known as St. Paul’s wort); there is no research showing that it has any benefit for skin.

silanetriol lysinate. See silicone. silica. Mineral found abundantly in sandstone, clay, and granite, as well as in parts of plants and animals. It is the principal ingredient of glass. In cosmetics it is used as an absorbent powder and thickening agent. Silica Dimethyl Silyate. Used as a slip and suspending agent. See silica and silicone. silicate. Inorganic salt that has potent absorbing and thickening properties. silicone. Substance derived from silica (sand is a silica). The unique fluid properties of silicone give it a great deal of slip and in its various forms it can feel like silk on the skin, impart emolliency, and be a waterbinding agent that holds up well, even when skin becomes wet. In other forms, it is also used extensively for wound healing and for improving the appearance of scars. silk. See silk protein. silk powder. Synthetically-derived powder used as an absorbent and slip agent. See slip agent. silk protein. Protein substance (also called sericin) formed by converting silk, which is the soft, lustrous thread obtained from the cocoon of the silkworm. Silk protein can have water-binding properties for skin. However, whether the protein applied to skin is derived from animals or plants, the skin can’t tell the difference. There is a small amount of research showing silk protein to have topical antioxidant properties. siloxane. See silicone. silver. Metal that in cosmetics can have disinfecting properties; however, prolonged contact can turn skin grayish-blue. Silver can be irritating to skin, and can cause silver toxicity. silver chloride. See silver sulfadiazine. silver sulfadiazine. Can be effective for wound healing. However, it is safe for skin only for short-term use, because silver can penetrate abraded skin and cause silver toxicity. silver tip white tea leaf extract. See green tea and white tea leaf extract. Silybum marianum extract. See lady’s thistle extract. simethicone. A mixture of dimethicone with silica; related to silicones, but used as an antifoaming agent. Skeletonema costatum extract. From a type of marine diatom. There is no research showing it to have benefit for skin. skin respiratory factor. See tissue respiratory factor. slip agent. Term used to describe a range of ingredients that help other ingredients spread over the skin and help ingredients penetrate into the skin. Slip agents also have humectant properties. Slip agents include propylene glycol, butylene glycol, polysorbates, and glycerin, to name a few. They are as basic to the world of skin care as water. slippery elm bark. Can be an anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory. soap. True "soaps" are regulated by the Consumer Product Safety Commission and are not required to list their ingredients on the label. They are solely made up of fats and alkali. Many bar cleansers are not soaps, but contain synthetic detergent cleansing agents and various thickening agents that keep the bar in its bar form. Most soaps are considered very drying and potentially irritating for skin due to their alkaline base (having a pH over 8). Bar cleansers can be more gentle than bar soaps, but are more often than not still drying, depending on their composition. soapwort. Plant providing an extract with detergent cleansing properties. There is some research showing it to have antiviral and antibacterial properties. sodium acrylate/acryloydimethyl taurate copolymer. Synthetic polymer used as a stabilizing and

suspending agent; also used as a thickening agent. sodium ascorbate. See ascorbic acid. sodium benzoate. A salt of benzoic acid used as a preservative. See preservatives. sodium bisulfite. Used in acid-type permanent waves to alter the shape of hair. It is less damaging than alkaline permanent waves, but it also has limitations regarding how much change it can effect in hair. It can be a skin irritant. sodium borate. See borates. sodium C14-16 olefin sulfate. Can be derived from coconut. Used primarily as a detergent cleansing agent, but is considered potentially drying and irritating for skin. See surfactant. sodium carbonate. An absorbent salt used in cosmetics; it can also be a skin irritant. sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan. Used as a thickening agent. For additional functions, see betaglucan. sodium chloride. Common table salt. Used primarily as a binding agent in skin-care products and occasionally as an abrasive in scrub products. Sodium chondroitin sulfate. Derived from natural mucopolysaccharides, it functions as a skin conditioning agent and helps reinforce skin’s intercellular matrix. Sodium citrate. Primarily used to control the pH level of a product, this ingredient also has antioxidant and preservative properties. sodium cocoate. Used as a cleansing agent primarily in soaps. It can be drying and irritating for skin. sodium cocoyl isethionate. Derived from coconut; it is a mild detergent cleansing agent. See surfactant. sodium dehydroacetate. An organic salt used as a preservative. See preservatives. sodium hyaluronate. See hyaluronic acid. sodium hydroxide. Also known as lye, it’s a highly alkaline ingredient used in small amounts in cosmetics to modulate the pH of a product. It is also used as a cleansing agent in some cleansers. In higher concentrations it is a significant skin irritant. sodium hydroxymethylglycinate. Derived from amino acids and used as a skin- and hair-conditioning agent, and to a lesser extent as a preservative. sodium lactate. The sodium salt of lactic acid. Used primarily as a water-binding and buffering agent (to adjust a product’s pH value). sodium laureth sulfate. Can be derived from coconut; it is used primarily as a detergent cleansing agent. It is considered gentle and effective. See surfactant and Paula's article, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate and Sodium Laureth Sulfate. sodium laureth-13 carboxylate. Used primarily as a detergent cleansing agent. See surfactant. sodium lauroamphoacetate. Mild surfactant also employed as a lather agent. See surfactant. Sodium lauroyl lactylate. Used as an emulsifier and mild thickening agent in cosmetics. In higher concentrations, it functions as a surfactant. See surfactant. sodium lauroyl sarcosinate. Surfactant known (and used) for its foam-boosting properties. See surfactant. sodium lauryl sulfate. There has been a great deal of misinformation about sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) being circulated on the Internet. Used primarily as a detergent cleansing agent SLS can be derived from

coconut. Although it is a potent skin irritant it is not toxic or dangerous for skin. In concentrations of 2% to 5%, SLS can cause allergic or sensitizing reactions in lots of people. It is used as a standard in scientific studies to establish irritatancy or sensitizing properties of other ingredients. Being a skin irritant, however, is not the same as a link to cancer, which is what erroneous warnings on the Internet are falsely claiming about this ingredient! According to Health Canada, in a press release of February 12, 1999, “A letter has been circulating the Internet which claims that there is a link between cancer and sodium laureth (or lauryl) sulfate (SLS), an ingredient used in [cosmetics]. Health Canada has looked into the matter and has found no scientific evidence to suggest that SLS causes cancer. It has a history of safe use in Canada. Upon further investigation, it was discovered that this e-mail warning is a hoax. The letter is signed by a person at the University of Pennsylvania Health System and includes a phone number. Health Canada contacted the University of Pennsylvania Health System and found that it is not the author of the sodium laureth sulfate warning and does not endorse any link between SLS and cancer. Health Canada considers SLS safe for use in cosmetics. Therefore, you can continue to use cosmetics containing SLS without worry. sodium metabisulfite. Reducing agent that alters the structure of hair. It can also be used as a preservative in formulations, and can be a skin irritant. However, it can also be an antioxidant. sodium methyl cocoyl taurate. Mild surfactant. See surfactant. sodium methyl taurate. Mild surfactant. See surfactant. sodium PCA. PCA stands for pyrrolidone carboxylic acid. It is a natural component of skin that is also a very good water-binding agent. See natural moisturizing factors. sodium salicylate. Salt form of salicylic acid (BHA). Because it is not the acid form of salicylate (i.e., salicylic acid), it does not have exfoliating properties. sodium silicate. A highly alkaline and potentially irritating antiseptic and mineral used in cosmetics. sodium sulfite. Reducing agent that alters the structure of hair. It can also be used as a preservative in cosmetic formulations, and can be a skin irritant. See reducing agent. sodium tallowate. Sodium salt of tallow. See tallow. sodium thioglycolate. See thioglycolate. sodium trideceth sulfate. See surfactant. Solanum lycocarpum fruit extract. Also known as wolf’s fruit. There is no research showing this to have benefit for skin, though there is research showing it to have toxic effects when eaten. Solanum lycopersicum extract. See tomato extract. Solanum tuberosum extract. Is potato starch. Used as a thickening agent in cosmetics. soluble fish collagen. See collagen. solum fullonum. See fuller’s earth. solvent. Describes a large group of ingredients, including water, that are used to dissolve or break down other ingredients in a formulation. Solvents are also used to degrease skin and to remove sebum. Sonojell. Trade name for petrolatum. See petrolatum. sorbitan stearate. Used to thicken and stabilize cosmetic formulations. sorbitol. Can be derived synthetically or from natural sources. Similar to glycerin, it is a humectant, thickening agent, and slip agent. soy extract. Potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent for skin. Soy is one of many phyto (plant)

chemicals that are biologically active against free radicals. Polyphenol compounds, such as the catechins found in green tea, also fit this profile. Soy extract’s increased use in anti-aging products is largely due to studies showing that genistein (a component of soy) has a collagen-stimulating effect and that various compounds in soy influence skin thickness and elasticity. Researchers have also looked at Bifidobacteriumfermented soy milk extracts. On mouse skin and in human skin fibroblasts (lab cultured), this bacteriamodified form of soy was shown to stimulate production of hyaluronic acid in skin. This was due to the amount of genistein released during the fermentation process. Studies performed on mouse skin have shown that topical application of soy milk and other soy compounds has a protective effect against UVB light damage. It is theorized that these benefits will translate to human skin as well, but conclusive evidence has not materialized yet. There is no research showing that soy extract or soy oil has estrogenic effects when applied to skin, as it can when taken orally. Some companies have asserted that soy can affect hair growth and lighten skin color when applied topically. The single study citing this was done by Johnson & Johnson that sells products claiming to have this effect. soy isoflavones. See soy extract. soy oil. Emollient oil similar to all nonfragrant plant oils. See natural moisturizing factors and soy extract. soy protein. See soy extract. soya sterol. One form of phytosterol. There is no research showing soy sterols to have estrogenic or antioxidant benefit for skin. See phytosterol. spearmint oil. Fragrant, volatile oil that can cause skin irritation and allergic reactions. See counter-irritant. SPF. See sun protection factor. spikenard. Plant that has antibacterial properties for skin. Spilanthes acmella extract. Plant extract that can have antibacterial properties. spinach extract. Can have antioxidant properties, but whether benefits can be realized when it is applied topically on skin is not known. Spiraea ulmaria. See meadowsweet extract. spirulina. See algae. squalane. See natural moisturizing factors and squalene. squalene. Oil derived from shark liver or from plants and sebum. It is a natural component of skin and is considered a good emollient that has antioxidant and immune-stimulating properties. St. John’s wort. Contains several components that are toxic on skin in the presence of sunlight. St. John’s wort’s association with improving depression when taken as an oral supplement is unrelated to its topical impact on skin. However, it also has potent antioxidant properties. star anise. See anise. steapyrium chloride. Antistatic agent used in hair-care products. stearalkonium chloride. Antistatic ingredient used in hair-care products to control flyaways and aid in helping a brush or comb get through hair. stearalkonium hectorite. Used as a suspending agent. stearates. See stearic acid. stearic acid. Fatty acid used as an emollient and as an agent to help keep other ingredients intact in a

formulation. See fatty acid and thickening agent. stearyl alcohol. Fatty alcohol used as an emollient and to help keep the other ingredients intact in a formulation. See fatty alcohols. Stearyl Methicone. A silicone polymer used as a skin-conditioning or occlusive agent. See silicone. Stevia rebaudiana extract. Plant extract called stevioside, a natural, noncaloric sweetener that has been used as a noncaloric sugar substitute in Japan and South America. It has been shown to have “genuine mutagenic” activity. There is no research showing this extract to have any benefit when applied topically to skin. strawberry begonia. There is no research showing this to have any benefit for skin. strawberry leaves. Can be a skin irritant and skin sensitizer, with no known benefit for skin. styrax benzoin. See benzoin extract. styrene/acrylates copolymer. A synthetic polymer. See film-forming agent. subtilisin. Protease enzyme obtained from the fermentation of Bacillus subtilis. See proteases. sucrose. Monosaccharide that has water-binding properties for skin. See mucopolysaccharide and waterbinding agent. sugarcane extract. Ingredients like sugarcane extract, fruit extracts, mixed fruit extracts, and milk solids may claim an association with AHAs, but they are not the same thing nor do they have the same beneficial effect on skin. While glycolic acid can indeed be derived from sugarcane, if you assume that sugarcane will net you the same result as glycolic acid that would be like assuming you could write on a tree the way you can on paper. Wood is certainly where paper begins, but paper wouldn’t exist without the wood undergoing complex mechanical and chemical processes. Similarly, the original forms of these extracts do not have the same effect as the effective ingredients that are derived from them. The same is true for lactic acid, derived from milk. If milk were as acid as lactic acid you would not be able to drink it without serious complications. There is a vast difference between the extracted, pure ingredient and the original form of the source material. See AHA. sulfur. An antibacterial agent. It can be a potent skin irritant and sensitizer. Sulfur also has a high pH, which can encourage the growth of bacteria on skin. suma. Also known as Brazilian ginseng and Pfaffia paniculata. See Pfaffia paniculata extract. sun protection factor. Most commonly referred to as SPF, it is a number assigned to a product that identifies its ability to protect the skin from sunburn or to protect the skin from turning pink or red when exposed to sun. SPF numbering is regulated by the FDA. It is a measure of the amount of time a person can stay in the sun without getting burned if a sunscreen is applied. Since sunburn results from UVB exposure, not UVA radiation, SPF is primarily a measure of UVB protection. At this time, there is no numbering system to indicate the level of protection a sunscreen can provide from UVA radiation, which affects the deeper layers of skin. A sunscreen with at least an SPF 15 or higher is universally recommended. Sunscreen must be applied liberally and evenly or the sun-protection value of the product will not be achieved and damage to the skin will occur. It is also essential that the sunscreen contain ingredients (chiefly avobenzone, titanium dioxide, and zinc oxide) that protect from UVA damage. sunflower oil. Non-volatile plant oil used as an emollient in cosmetics. sunscreens. Products strictly regulated by the FDA that provide protection from sunburn and some amount of sun damage. There is a great deal of confusion regarding the efficacy and use of sunscreens. The FDA instituted new regulations that will take effect in 2002 and that will hopefully clarify the issue. According to the FDA’s July-August 2002 issue of Consumer magazine, “Under the new regulations manufacturers will no longer be allowed to [use] … confusing terms such as "sunblock," “waterproof," "all-day protection," and "visible and/or infrared light protection" on these [sunscreen] products. In addition to these changes …

tanning preparations that do not contain a sunscreen ingredient [are required] to display the following warning: ‘Warning: This product does not contain a sunscreen and does not protect against sunburn. Repeated exposure of unprotected skin while tanning may increase the risk of skin aging, skin cancer, and other harmful effects to the skin even if you do not burn. “To figure out how much protection a sunscreen provides, most consumers turn to a simple number: the SPF, or sun protection factor, listed on the label. Studies show that most consumers understand that the higher the number, the more the product protects the skin.” The FDA then goes on to say: “Unfortunately, studies also show that people often have the mistaken notion that the higher the SPF number of the sunscreen they use, the longer they can stay—and will stay—in the sun.… Sunscreen should not be used to prolong time spent in the sun. Even with a sunscreen, you are not going to prevent all the possible damage from the sun. Some of the newer research in the last several years shows that [for] the sub-erythemal doses [exposure to the sun that does not cause reddening of the skin], as little as one-tenth the energy needed to get a sunburn, starts the process of skin damage of one sort or another. “The public under-applies sunscreens by as much as half of the recommended amount, concluded a study published in the Archives of Dermatology. Consequently, the study argued, consumers are receiving only half of the SPF protection they believe the product provides.” This issue of liberal application has been confirmed in other research as well. superfatted soap. Soaps that contain extra oils and fats that supposedly make them more gentle for the face. Basis Soap is one of the more popular superfatted specialty soaps. superoxide dismutase. Enzyme considered to be a potent antioxidant in humans. surfactant. Acronym for surface active agent. Surfactants degrease and emulsify oils and fats and suspend soil, allowing them to be washed away, as laundry products do. I refer to these substances throughout my writing as “detergent cleansing agents.” Surfactants and detergent cleansing agents are often used interchangeably by chemists and researchers. Surfactants are used in most forms of cleansers and many of them are considered gentle and effective for most skin types. There are several types of surfactants that can be sensitizing, drying, and irritating for skin. sutilain. See Bacillus subtilis. sweet almond oil. Emollient oil. See natural moisturizing factors. Symphytum officinale extract. See comfrey. Szechuan pepper. May have antibacterial properties, but can also be a skin irritant. Szechuan peppercorn. From a plant native to the Szechuan Province in China. It grows on trees, and so differs from black pepper, which grows on climbing vines. Used extensively in Szechuan cooking, Szechuan pepper is known for the "numbing" sensation it produces on the tongue. It is considered a counter-irritant. See black pepper extract and oil and counter-irritant.

T talc. A naturally-occurring mineral that is a silicate (any group of substances containing negative ions composed of silicon and oxygen) of magnesium. Current, extensive research indicates there is no increased risk of lung cancer when using talc-based products or for those involved in the manufacture of talc products, although there is epidemiological evidence that frequent use of pure talc over the female genital area may increase the risk of ovarian cancer. However, a study review in Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology stated that “Talc is not genotoxic, [it] is not carcinogenic when injected into ovaries of rats… There is no credible evidence of a cancer risk from inhalation of cosmetic talc by humans.” tallow. Substance extracted from the fatty deposits of animals, especially from suet (the fat of cattle and sheep). Tallow is often used to make soap and candles. In soap, because of its fat content, it can be a problem for breakouts. tamanu oil. From a tree native to Polynesia. It is reputed to have wondrous wound-healing properties, as well as being a cure-all for almost every skin ailment you can think of, from acne to eczema to psoriasis, but all of the miraculous claims are hinged on anecdotal, not scientific, evidence. There’s no harm in using this

oil in skin care—like most oils, it is composed of phospholipids and glycolipids, and these are natural constituents of healthy skin and are good water-binding agents. Tamanu oil may have anti-inflammatory properties and there is some research showing it has anti-tumor properties, though this has not been proven in any direct research on skin. Tambourissa extract. Extract of a plant indigenous to Madagascar that has no known benefit for skin. It may contain volatile components that can be skin irritants. Tanacetum parthenium. See feverfew extract. tangerine oil. Fragrant, volatile citrus oil that can be a skin irritant. tannic acid. A potent antioxidant; it may have some anticarcinogenic properties. tannin. A component of many plants. It can have an antitumor benefit when consumed in tea or foods. There is some research on animals showing that this benefit may translate to skin. Tannins can also have constricting properties on skin, and that may cause irritation with repeated use. Taraktogenos kurzii. See chaulmoogra oil. Taraxacum japonicum. See Japanese dandelion. Taraxacum officinale. See dandelion extract. Taraxacum platycarpum. See Japanese dandelion. tartaric acid. See AHA. Tazorac. Chemically known as tazarotene, it is a synthetically-derived retinoid with properties similar to tretinoin (the active ingredient in Retin-A and Renova). Tazorac is a brand-name prescription drug owned by Allergan, that is available in gel and cream textures and is prescribed for managing acne. Tazarotene is also sold under the brand name Avage (also from Allergan), and this version is marketed for treating wrinkles and sun-induced skin discolorations. Tazarotene works similarly to tretinoin by modulating cell differentiation and proliferation. It also has anti-inflammatory and immune-modifying properties, which is why it is used (often successfully) as a topical prescription for managing psoriasis. TBHQ. Abbreviation for 2-tert-butylhydroquinone. It is a potent antioxidant, though there is no research showing this to be of benefit when applied topically. TEA. See triethanolamine. tea tree oil. Also known as melaleuca, from the name of its plant source, Melaleuca alternifolia. It can have disinfecting properties that have been shown to be effective against the bacteria that cause blemishes. According to Healthnotes Review of Complementary and Integrative Medicine and the Medical Journal of Australia (October 1990, pages 455–458), 5% tea tree oil and 2.5% benzoyl peroxide are effective in reducing the number of blemishes, with a significantly better result for benzoyl peroxide when compared to the tea tree oil. Skin oiliness was lessened significantly in the benzoyl peroxide group versus the tea tree oil group. However, the tea tree oil had somewhat less irritating side effects. Concentrations of 5% to 10% are recommended. However, the amount found in most skin-care products is usually less than 1% and, therefore, considered not to be effective for disinfecting. See Paula's article Tea Tree Oil—Melaleuca. TEA-lauryl sulfate. While there is abundant research showing sodium lauryl sulfate to be a sensitizing cleansing agent, there is no similar supporting research for TEA-lauryl sulfate. However, because the relationship between the two is so close, I decided to recommend against the use of either of them. The basis for this is a judgment call, made from a desire to protect skin from sensitization; however, there are no specific studies I can cite for this recommendation, although there are those who will understandably disagree with my conclusion. See sodium lauryl sulfate. Tecoma curialis bark extract. Potential irritant and sensitizer for skin. Tepescohuite extract. The Spanish name for Mimosa tenuiflora extract. See Mimosa tenuiflora extract.

Tephrosia purpurea seed extract. There is a small amount of research showing this to have antioxidant and anticancer properties when fed to rats, or in vitro, but there is no evidence that this effect can be duplicated when applied topically on skin. Terminalia catappa. Can be a potent antioxidant. Terminalia sericea. May have antibacterial properties. Terminalia sericea extract. This extract has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, but there is no research showing it to have any effect on the appearance of cellulite. tetradibutyl pentaeriththrityl hydroxyhydrocinnamate. See antioxidant. tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate. Stable form of vitamin C. See vitamin C. Tetrahydrobisdemethoxycurcumin. Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory plant extract. See curcumin. tetrahydrodemethoxycurcumin. See curcumin and turmeric. Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane. Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory plant extract. See curcumin. Tetrahydromethoxycurcumin. Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory plant extract. See curcumin. tetrasodium EDTA. A chelating agent. It is used to prevent minerals present in formulations from bonding to other ingredients. tetrasodium etidronate. Used as a chelating agent in cosmetics to prevent varying mineral components from binding together and negatively affecting the formulation. Thea sinensis extract. See green tea. thiamine HCL. Vitamin B1. There is no research showing this to be effective when applied topically on skin. thiazolidine carboxylate. Can have antioxidant properties, but there is no research showing this to be the case when it is applied topically on skin. thickening agent. Substances that can have a soft to hard waxlike texture or a creamy, emollient feel, and that can be great lubricants. There are literally thousands of ingredients in this category that give each and every lotion, cream, lipstick, foundation, and mascara, as well as other cosmetic products, their distinctive feel and form. thioglycolate. Compounds used in permanent waves and depilatories either to alter the structure of hair or to dissolve it. These are potent skin irritants. thiotaurine. An amino acid. Potentially, it can have antioxidant properties for skin. threonine. See amino acid. Thuja occidentalis extract. Also known as extract of red or yellow cedar. It has antibacterial properties on skin, but it also has constricting properties and can be a skin irritant. thyme extract. Derived from the thyme plant. It can have potent antioxidant properties. Its fragrant component can also cause skin irritation. thyme oil. See thyme extract. thymine. Component of DNA that carries genetic information for the cell. See DNA. thymus extract. See thymus hydrolysate. thymus hydrolysate. Form of animal thymus derived by acid, enzyme, or other methods of hydrolysis. It can have water-binding properties for skin but has no other special or unique benefit.

Thymus serpillum extract. An extract of wild thyme. See thyme extract. Thymus vulgaris. See thyme extract. Tian men dong. Chinese herbal asparagus extract; it has no known benefit for skin. Tilia cordata. See linden flower extract. Tinosorb M. See Tinosorb S. Tinosorb S. In Europe there are two sunscreen ingredients, Tinosorb S (bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine) and Tinosorb M (methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol), that are approved for protection of the entire range of UVA radiation. Whether they are preferred over the other UVAprotecting ingredients used in sunscreens has not been established. At this time, neither Tinosorb M nor Tinosorb S have been approved for use in the United States or Canada. See UVA. tissue respiratory factor (TRF). Trade name for a form of yeast suspended in alcohol. There is only one independent study, performed on animals, that showed it to have some wound-healing benefits. titanium dioxide. Inert earth mineral used as a thickening, whitening, lubricating, and sunscreen ingredient in cosmetics. It protects skin from UVA and UVB radiation and is considered to have no risk of skin irritation. Tocopherol. See vitamin E. tocopherol acetate. See vitamin E. tocopheryl acetate. See vitamin E. tocopheryl lineolate. See vitamin E. tocotrienols. Super-potent forms of vitamin E that are considered stable and powerful antioxidants. There is some research showing tocotrienols to be more potent than other forms of vitamin E for antioxidant activity, but the studies cited in this review were all performed on animal models or in vitro. According to the University of California at Berkeley’s Wellness Guide to Dietary Supplements (October 1999), “[Tocotrienol] research in humans is very limited, and the results conflicting.” The research that has been done has centered on large doses of oral tocotrienols, animal studies, or test-tube trials. Companies that want you to believe that tocotrienols are now the answer for your skin are only guessing whether or not the laboratory evidence translates to human skin as it exists in the real world. Full-scale clinical studies on humans to assess the benefits of topical tocotrienols have not yet been performed, so for now (as is true for all antioxidants), choosing it as the “best” one is a leap of faith. See vitamin E. toluene. Solvent used in nail polishes; it is considered toxic with repeated use. tomato extract. Has weak antioxidant properties.Tomatoes contain lycopene, which is a significant antioxidant, but it is more bioavailable from tomato paste than from fresh tomatoes. It can also be a potential skin irritant depending on what part of the tomato is used, but there is no way to know that from an ingredient label. See lycopene. tormentil extract. See Potentilla erecta root extract. tourmaline. An inert, though complex, mineral. One of its unique properties is that it is piezoelectric, meaning that it generates an electrical charge when under pressure. That’s why tourmaline is typically used in pressure gauges. Tourmaline is also pyroelectric, which means that it generates an electrical charge during a temperature change (either increase or decrease). One of the results of generating such an electric charge is that dust particles will become attached to one end of the tourmaline crystal. However, none of that can take place in a cosmetic. There is no published research showing tourmaline has any proven effect on skin whatsoever. See Paula's article Tourmaline. tragacanth. Natural gum used as a thickener in cosmetics. tranexamic acid. Technical name 4-aminomethylcyclohexanecarboxylic acid. When used orally, it is an

antihemophilic (stops bleeding) medicine; topically it is an anti-inflammatory agent. transforming growth factor (TGF). Stimulates wound healing and collagen growth. See human growth factor. transparent soap. Looks milder or less drying because of its unclouded, clear appearance, but many such soaps contain harsh cleansing ingredients, and the ingredients that give the bar its shape can clog pores. trehalose. A plant sugar that has water-binding properties for skin. tretinoin. Topical, prescription-only medication that can improve cell production after it has been damaged. It is the active ingredient in Retin-A, Renova, Tazorac, and Avita. One of the more significant problems of sun damage is abnormal and mutated cell growth. tribenzoin. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester. tricaprylin. A mixture of glycerin and caprylic acid. Has emollient properties and is used as a skinconditioning agent. See glycerin. triclosan. Good antibacterial agent used in many products, from those for oral hygiene to cleansers. However, whether triclosan is effective for treatment of acne has not been researched. There is also controversy over whether or not triclosan may contribute to creating strains of bacteria that are resistant to antibiotics owing to its overuse in cosmetic products. Further, there is also concern about whether, in practical use, it can in fact impart the benefits of disinfection indicated on the label. tridecyl salicylate. Salt form of salicylic acid (BHA). When it is no longer an acid (as here), salicylic acid no longer has exfoliating properties. tridecyl stearate. Used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and emollient. tridecyl trimellitate. Used as a skin-conditioning agent and thickening agent. See thickening agent. triethanolamine. Used in cosmetics as a pH balancer. Like all amines, it has the potential for creating nitrosamines. There is controversy as to whether this poses a real problem for skin, given the low concentrations used in cosmetics and the theory that nitrosamines can’t penetrate skin. triethoxycaprylylsilane. A silicone that functions as a binding agent and emulsifier. See silicone. Trifolium pratense. See red clover. triglyceride. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester and natural moisturizing factors. Trigonella feonum-graecum. See fenugreek. trihydroxystearin. A mixture of glycerin and fatty acids used as an emollient and thickening agent. See fatty acid. trilaurin. Group of ingredients that are triesters of glycerin and aliphatic acids, and known generically as glyceryl triesters. These are used in cosmetic products as thickening agents and emollients. Trimethylsiloxysilicate. Used as a skin conditioning and occlusive agent. See silicone. trioclanolin. Derived from lanolin and used as a texture enhanced, most commonly in powder-based products such as eyeshadows and powder blush. trioctanoin. Emollient and thickening agent used in cosmetics. See trilaurin. trioctyldodecyl citrate. A mixture of octyldodecanol and citric acid used as a skin-conditioning agent and emollient. See octyldodecanol and citric acid. Trisodium EDTA. Similar to tetrasodium EDTA; Used as a water-softening and chelating agent (a

compound that binds and separates metals, keeping them from bonding to other ingredients). See tetrasodium EDTA. tristearin. Triglyceride of stearic acid. It is used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. Triticum vulgare oil. See wheat germ oil. tryptophan. See amino acid. turmeric. Plant source of a spice made from the dried, ground root; its extract is called curcurmin. A natural yellow food coloring that has potent antioxidant properties. Because it is a potent spice, it may have some irritating properties for skin as well. Tussilago farfara. See coltsfoot. tyrosinase. Enzyme that stimulates melanin production. See tyrosine. tyrosine. An amino acid in skin that initiates the production of melanin (melanin is the component of skin that gives it “color”). According to information on the FDA’s Web site (www.fda.gov), tyrosine’s “use is based on the assumption that it penetrates the skin, increases the tyrosine content of the melanocytes, and thus enhances melanin formation. This effect has not been documented in the scientific literature. In fact, an animal study reported a few years ago demonstrated that ingestion or topical application of tyrosine has no effect on melanogenesis [the creation of melanin].” Tyrosine is important to the structure of almost all proteins in the body. However, the chemical pathway needed for tyrosine to function is complex and this pathway cannot be duplicated by including tyrosine in a skin-care product or by applying it topically.

U ubiquinone. See coenzyme Q10. ultramarines. Inorganic pigments (of various colors) permanently listed by the FDA for external use only, including around the eye area. Ulva lactuca extract. Extract of the plant known as sea lettuce. It has some anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties for skin. Ulva lactuca extract. An extract from the plant known as sea lettuce, it has some anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties for skin. However, there is no research showing it to have any benefit for cellulite reduction. umbilical extract. Obtained from either human or animal umbilical cord. It is used in cosmetics with varying, though unsubstantiated, claims about the effect on skin. Use of animal- and human-derived ingredients is prohibited under the provisions of the European Union Cosmetics Directive. For animal-derived ingredients, this is based on concerns about transmission of bovine spongiform encephalopathy (Mad Cow Disease); for human-derived ingredients the concern is viral diseases such as human immunodeficiency virus (HIV). There is no way to know from reading a cosmetic ingredient label what the source of the extract is. Uncaria gambir extract. Leaf extract of a shrub from the madder family. Some forms of uncaria have antioxidant properties. There is no research for the gambir variety. However, due to its tannin content, Uncaria gambir most likely has antioxidant properties, though the tannin content also makes it a potential skin irritant. Undaria pinnatifida. Form of seaweed. See algae. urea. Component of urine, though synthetic versions are used in cosmetics. In small amounts urea has good water-binding and exfoliating properties for skin; in larger concentrations it can cause inflammation Urtica dioica. See nettle extract. usnic acid. Antibacterial and possibly anti-inflammatory substance derived from lichens. It can also inhibit cell production. UVA. Ultra-violet A radiation. The sun produces a range of ultra-violet (UV) radiation. Skin damage, such as wrinkling, skin discoloration, sagging, and coarse texture, is a consequence of unprotected sun exposure due to the cumulative effect of the sun’s UVA and UVB radiation. UVA and UVB radiation are the portions of

the sun’s rays that cause this damage. UVA rays have wavelengths of 320 to 400 nanometers; UVB rays have wavelengths of 290 to 320 nanometers. UVB radiation causes sunburn, while UVA radiation does not produce any visible short-term evidence of skin damage. Nonetheless, UVA radiation creates serious cumulative changes in skin that may be far greater than the sunburn caused by UVB radiation. Research has shown that unprotected exposure to UVA rays can, within one week, create distinct injury, such as inflammation, abnormal cell production, stratum corneum (outer layer of skin) thickening, depletion of immune-stimulating cells, and evidence of the possibility of elastin deterioration To be truly effective and beneficial for skin, sunscreens must protect skin from both the sun’s UVA and UVB radiation. In the U.S., there are only three ingredients that are widely found in SPF products approved by the FDA that protect across the full UVA range, these are: titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and avobenzone (also called Parsol 1789 and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane). Outside of the U.S., Tinosorb and Mexoryl SX (also called ecamsule), are also used. Mexoryl SX is a L’Oreal-patented sunscreen ingredient that received FDA approval in July 2006 for use in a single sunscreen, Anthelios SX SPF 15 from L’Oreal-owned line La Roche-Posay. This is the only sunscreen with Mexoryl approved for sale in the U.S. Uva ursi extract. See arbutin and bearberry extract

V VA/crotonates. Film-forming agent. See film-forming agent. VA/crotonates copolymer. See VA/crotonates. Vaccinium myrtillus. See bilberry extract. valerian. Extract of the common herb valerian (Valeriana officinalis). There is definitely research showing that it is effective at improving sleep patterns when taken orally. There is no research showing that it has any effect when applied topically on skin. valine. See amino acid. Vanilla planifolia fruit extract. Used primarily as a fragrance and flavoring agent. The vanilla plant is a source of catechins (also known as polyphenols), which exhibit antioxidant activity and serve as antiinflammatory agents. vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF). Stimulates the growth of blood vessels. See human growth factor. verbena extract. Fragrant extract that can be a skin irritant. Veronica officinalis extract. There is no research showing this extract to have any benefit for skin. vetiver oil or extract. Fragrant component in skin-care products that also has some antibacterial properties. It can also be a skin sensitizer. Vinca minor extract. See periwinkle extract. vinegar. Consists of acetic acid and water. The color and flavor of the vinegar is determined by and varies with the alcoholic liquor or juice that is used to ferment the acetic acid (such as apple cider or wine). It does have mild disinfecting and antifungal properties, but according to a study in Infection Control and Hospital Epidemiology, commercial disinfectants are far more effective in killing germs and bacteria than vinegar. Vinegar can be a skin irritant. Viola tricolor extract. See pansy extract. Visnaga vera extract. Also known as khella, when taken orally there is concern that it may cause nausea, dizziness, constipation, headache, itching, and insomnia. Khella may cause liver problems for some people. There is also some concern that it might cause photosensitivity because it contains khellin and furocoumarin. vitamin A. Considered a good antioxidant in some of its various forms, particularly as retinol and retinyl palmitate. See retinol and Paula's article, Vitamin A: Retinol. vitamin B1. See thiamine HCL.

vitamin B12. May be effective in the treatment of psoriasis. Overall there is limited research showing vitamin B12 to have any benefit when applied topically on skin. vitamin B2. There is no research showing this to have any benefit when applied topically to skin. However, there is a small amount of research showing that riboflavin may be photosensitizing and thus cause the breakdown of skin. vitamin B3. See niacinamide. vitamin B5. Also known as pantothenic acid. See pantothenic acid. vitamin B6. There is no research showing it to have benefit for skin. vitamin C. Considered a potent antioxidant for skin. Claims that vitamin C can prevent or eliminate wrinkling are not proven. An article in Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery discussed the issue of vitamin C and concluded that “Vitamin C is a valuable antioxidant and protectant against photodamage that is created by sunlight in both the UVB and UVA bands…. Although oral supplementation may also be useful, topical preparations are able to deliver a higher dosage to the needed area. Topical vitamin C does not absorb or block harmful ultraviolet radiation like a sunscreen. Instead, it augments the skin’s ability to neutralize reactive oxygen singlets [free-radical damage] that are created by the ultraviolet radiation, thereby preventing photodamage to the skin. It becomes an integral part of the skin and remains unaffected by bathing, exercise, clothing, or makeup. Used appropriately, topical vitamin C is an important adjunct to the use of sunscreens, an adjunctive treatment to lessen erythema [redness] in skin resurfacing, a helpful adjunct or an alternative to Retin-A in the treatment of fine wrinkles, and a stimulant to wound healing." See Paula's article, Vitamin C. vitamin D. Provides no known benefit for skin when applied topically, though it may have antioxidant benefits. Vitamin D formed in the skin by sunlight, or in an oral supplement form, is essential for health. See Paula's article, Vitamin D. vitamin E. Considered an antioxidant superstar. Vitamin E is a lipid-soluble vitamin (meaning it likes fat better than water) that has eight different forms, of which some are known for being excellent antioxidants when applied topically to skin, particularly alpha tocopherol and the tocotrienols. However, other studies have indicated the acetate form (tocopherol acetate) is also bioavailable and protective for skin. And still other research points to tocopherol sorbate as providing significant antioxidant protection against ultraviolet radiation–induced oxidative damage, which states: “More than other tissues, the skin is exposed to numerous environmental chemical and physical agents such as ultraviolet light causing oxidative stress [free-radical damage]. In the skin this results in several short- and long-term adverse effects such as erythema [redness], edema [swelling], skin thickening, wrinkling, and an increased incidence of skin cancer…. Vitamin E is the major naturally occurring lipid-soluble … antioxidant protecting skin from the adverse effects of oxidative stress including photoaging [sun damage]. Many studies document that vitamin E occupies a central position as a highly efficient antioxidant, thereby providing possibilities to decrease the frequency and severity of pathological events in the skin.”. vitamin E for scars. There is no evidence that vitamin E can help heal scars, and, because of skin sensitivity, it can actually impede the healing process for some. A report of research published in Dermatologic Surgery “The effects of topical vitamin E on the cosmetic appearance of scars,” concluded that the “… study shows that there is no benefit to the cosmetic outcome of scars by applying vitamin E after skin surgery and that the application of topical vitamin E may actually be detrimental to the cosmetic appearance of a scar. In 90% of the cases in this study, topical vitamin E either had no effect on, or actually worsened, the cosmetic appearance of scars. Of the patients studied, 33% developed a contact dermatitis to the vitamin E. Therefore we conclude that use of topical vitamin E on surgical wounds should be discouraged.” The study was done double-blind “with patients given two ointments each labeled A or B. A was Aquaphor, a regular emollient, and the B was Aquaphor mixed with vitamin E. The scars were randomly divided into parts A and B. Patients were asked to put the A ointment on part A and the B ointment on part B twice daily for 4 weeks.” Antioxidants are definitely an option for skin, but, for preventing scars, vitamin E directly applied on skin does not appear to be one of them. vitamin F. Name sometimes used to represent essential fatty acids of linoleic acid and linolenic acid. These are considered essential fatty acids (EFA) because they cannot be produced by the body. There are many fatty acids that have benefit for skin, including arachidonic, eicosapentaenoic, docosahexaenoic, and oleic

acids to name a few. These all have emollient, water-binding, and often antioxidant properties for skin. See gamma linolenic acid and linoleic acid. vitamin H. See biotin. vitamin K. Some cosmetics companies sell creams and lotions containing vitamin K, claiming it can reduce or eliminate surfaced spider veins (technically referred to as telangiectasias). These creams can’t change spider veins. The only research concerning vitamin K’s effectiveness on skin or surfaced spider veins comes from the companies selling these products. There are no published or peer-reviewed studies that add up to results you can even remotely count on. Vitex trifoliar fruit extract. See chaste tree fruit extract. Vitis vinifera. Latin name for the vines producing wine grapes. See grape seed oil and grape seed extract. Vitreoscilla ferment. Made from a bacteria that can help cells utilize oxygen better in vitro. Whether that effect can be translated to benefit skin cells via a cosmetic formulation is unknown. volatile oil. Group of volatile fluids derived primarily from plants, and used in cosmetics primarily as fragrant additives. These components most often include a mix of alcohols, ketones, phenols, linalool, borneol, terpenes, camphor, pinene, acids, ethers, aldehydes, and sulfur, which all have extremely irritating and sensitizing effects on skin. VP/hexadecene copolymer. A synthetic polymer. See film-forming agent.W

W walnut extract. Can have antioxidant properties. There is no research showing this to have any benefit for skin. walnut oil. Emollient, nonfragrant plant oil. See natural moisturizing factors. walnut-shell powder. Abrasive used in scrub products. water. The most widely used cosmetic ingredient; it is almost always listed first on an ingredient label because it is usually the ingredient with the highest concentration. Yet, despite claims of the skin’s need for hydration and the claims regarding the special type of water used, it turns out that water may not be an important ingredient for skin. Only a 10% concentration of water in the outer layer of skin is necessary for softness and pliability in this part of the epidermis. Studies that have compared the water content of dry skin to that of normal or oily skin don’t find a statistically significant difference in moisture levels between them. Further, too much water in the skin can be a problem, because it can disrupt the skin’s intercellular matrix, the substances that keep skin cells bonded to each other. The most significant aspect of the skin’s health is the structural organization of the intercellular lipids and the related materials that keep skin intact and prevent water loss. water-binding agent. Wide range of ingredients that help skin retain water (moisture). Glycerin is one of the more typical and effective water-binding agents used in cosmetics. One group of water-binding agents can mimic the skin’s actual structure and can be of benefit in a formulation; these include ceramide, lecithin, glycerin, polysaccharides, hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, mucopolysaccharides, sodium PCA, collagen, elastin, proteins, amino acids, cholesterol, glucose, sucrose, fructose, glycogen, phospholipids, glycosphingolipids, and glycosaminoglycans. No single one of these is preferred over the other because even though they are all effective, none of them can permanently change the actual structure of skin. See natural moisturizing factors. watercress extract. There is a small amount of research showing dietary intake of watercress can inhibit breast cancer cell proliferation and other cancers. Research also indicates watercress extracts can have antioxidant activity but that information is limited. However, it is important to note that this research was either in vitro or animal experiments and definitely not in skin-care products. wheat germ glycerides. Used as emollient and thickening agents in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester and natural moisturizing factors. wheat germ oil. Emollient plant oil similar to all nonfragrant plant oils. See natural moisturizing factors.

wheat protein. See natural moisturizing factors and protein. whey. Milk contains two primary proteins, casein and whey. When cheese is produced the more liquid components, whey and casein, are separated from the cheese. When eaten or taken in oral supplements whey protein can have significant antioxidant properties as well as anticancer properties because it generates the production of glutathione in the body, which is a significant antioxidant. Whether or not any of those benefits translate to skin is unknown. In skin care products it is most likely a good water-binding agent. white camellia extract or oil. Used as a fragrance in cosmetics; it may be a skin sensitizer. white nettle. Contains components that can have both anti-irritant as well as inflammatory properties. white oak bark extract. See oak root extract. white tea leaf extract. The minimally processed buds and leaves of green tea. There is research showing white and green teas to have the highest concentration of antioxidant properties (via their polyphenol and flavonoid content) of all teas, and several in vitro and animal studies have shown green tea and white tea to have anticancer and antimutagenic properties. However, even though tea flavonoids are effective antioxidants, it is unclear to what extent they increase the antioxidant capacity of humans, and there is no research showing what their activity means for skin. It appears that white and green tea share similar amounts of the polyphenol Epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG), which is tea’s main antioxidant. The conclusion drawn is that white and green tea have nearly identical antioxidant activity. white willow. See willow bark. wild ginger. See ginger extract. wild yam extract. The roots of wild yams were used in the first commercial production of oral contraceptives, topical hormones, androgens, estrogens, progesterones, and other sex hormones. Diosgenin, a component of wild yam, is promoted as a natural precursor to dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA). Some wild-yam products are promoted as "natural DHEA." Although diosgenin can be converted to steroidal compounds, including DHEA, in the laboratory, this chemical synthesis does not occur in the human body. So taking wild-yam extracts will not increase DHEA levels in humans. There is no research showing wild yam has any effectiveness when applied topically on skin. If anything, the studies that do exist have demonstrated that topical application of wild yam has little to no effect on menopausal symptoms. willow bark. Contains salicin, a substance that when taken orally is converted by the digestive process to salicylic acid (beta hydroxy acid). The process of converting willow bark to salicylic acid requires the presence of enzymes to turn the salicin into salicylic acid. The digestive conversion process that turns salicin into saligenin, and then into salicylic acid, is complex. Further, salicin, much like salicylic acid, is stable only under acidic conditions. The likelihood that willow bark in the tiny amount used in cosmetics can mimic the effectiveness of salicylic acid is at best problematic, and in all likelihood impossible. However, willow bark may indeed have some anti-inflammatory benefits for skin because, in this form, it appears to retain more of its aspirin-like composition. willow herb. See Epilobium angustifolium extract. wintergreen oil. Can be very irritating and sensitizing. witch hazel. Can have potent antioxidant properties “Witch hazel can have an ethanol [alcohol] content of 70 to 80 percent. Witch hazel water … contains 15% ethanol.” The alcohol can be an irritant. Witch hazel also has a high tannin content (and tannin is a potent antioxidant), which can also be irritating when used repeatedly on skin, though when used for initial swelling from burns it can reduce inflammation. wormword. Herb that has antioxidant properties. Wu wei zi. Also known as Schisandra chinensis, this herb can have a constricting effect and can be a skin irritant.

X xanthan gum. Used as a thickening agent. Xi xin. See ginger extract.

Ximenia americana oil. Plum oil; it can have emollient properties. xylitol. See sorbitol. xylose. Form of sugar. Similar to other sugars, xylose has water-binding properties for skin.

Y yarrow extract. There is little research showing yarrow extract to have benefit for skin. What studies do exist were done in vitro and indicate that it may have anti-inflammatory properties yeast. Group of fungi that ferment sugars. Yeast is a source of betaglucan, which is considered a good antioxidant. A simple Internet search for brewer’s yeast (Latin name Saccharomyces cerevisiae), brings up over 85,000 references. Yeasts are basically fungi that grow as single cells, producing new cells either by budding or fission [splitting]. Because it reproduces well, Saccharomyces cerevisiae is the organism that is most widely used in biotechnology. Nevertheless, some forms of yeast are human pathogens, such as Cryptococcus and Candida albicans. In relation to skin, there is limited information about how Saccharomyces cerevisiae may provide a benefit. Live yeast-cell derivatives have been shown to stimulate wound healing (Source: Archives of Surgery, May 1990, pages 641–646), but research like this is scant. Most of what is known about yeast is theoretical, and is about yeast’s tissue-repair and protective properties. yellow lupine. See Lupinus luteus seed extract. yerba mate extract. Used for the preparation of the most popular tea-like beverage of South America. It has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. ylang-ylang. Fragrant, volatile oil that can also be a skin irritant. See volatile oil. yogurt. There is no research showing yogurt to be effective when applied topically on skin. yucca extract. Plant extract that can have anti-inflammatory benefits.

Z Zanthoxylum alatum extract. Has no known benefit for skin when applied topically Zanthoxylum piperitum. See Szechuan pepper. zedoary oil. Fragrant oil that can be a skin irritant, though there is also research showing that components of zedoary can have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties zeolite. One of a group of minerals used as an absorbent in cosmetics. It has been shown to have anticancer properties zinc. There is growing evidence that zinc can be a significant anti-irritant and antioxidant. It also can have anti-acne benefits when combined with a topical antibiotic such as erythromycin. Taken orally, zinc may have positive effects for wound healing and other health benefits zinc carbonate. See calamine. zinc gluconate. A combination of zinc with a form of glucose (a sugar) that is commonly used in cold lozenges for its antiviral effects. A study reported in Dermatology (2001, volume 203, issue 2, page 40) evaluated “the place of zinc gluconate in relation to antibiotics in the treatment of acne vulgaris. Zinc was compared to minocycline [an antibiotic] in a multicenter randomized double-blind trial. 332 patients received either 30 milligrams elemental zinc or 100 milligrams minocycline over 3 months. The primary endpoint was defined as the percentage of the clinical success rate on day 90….” The study concluded that “Minocycline and zinc gluconate are both effective in the treatment of inflammatory acne, but minocycline has a superior effect evaluated to be 17% in our study.” Whether or not this relates to topical applications is unknown. Note: High doses of zinc can be toxic. Avoid taking more than 100 mg of zinc per day from a supplement zinc oxide. Inert earth mineral used as a thickening, whitening, lubricating, and sunscreen ingredient in cosmetics. One manufacturer of zinc oxide has heavily promoted this ingredient as being the only option for broad-spectrum sun protection, but this has not been proven by other independent research. Along with

titanium dioxide, zinc oxide is considered to have no risk of skin irritation. It can also be an anti-irritant and potentially an antioxidant. zinc phenolsulfonate. Antimicrobial agent that can also be a skin irritant. zinc sulfate. A chemical resulting from the interaction of zinc with sulfuric acid. There is little research showing this to be beneficial for skin. The little information there is shows it doesn’t help skin healing Zingiber officinale Roscoe. See ginger extract. Zingiber zerumbet. See ginger extract. Zingiberaceae. See ginger extract. Zizyphus jujube. Chinese jujube, Zizyphus jujuba, is one of the five major fruits of China, where some 300 varieties of it are grown. There is no research showing it to have benefit on skin.