Hair Removal Devices & Formulations

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Hair Removal Devices & Formulations

Humans are, for the most part, hairy. And just how much hair, and where on one’s body and face it appears, is ever changing. For the last 2.6 million years or so, men and women have been looking for hair removal devices to achieve their desired look, often influenced by societal norms and changing grooming styles.

The history of hair removal devices begins in the Stone Age, when historians say carved rocks and clam shells were devices of choice to remove unwanted hair. According to Encyclopedia Britannica, razors made with copper and gold have been found in Egyptian tombs of the 4th millennium BCE.

Depilation is the removal of hair through either a mechanical or chemical processes.

Today, consumers can tackle this task at home mechanically by using disposable shavers, razor blades, electric shaving and hair removal devices that offer smooth, hair-free skin on a temporary basis.

Devices that eliminate hair by pulling it from the roots (epilation) or using light technology that destroys hair follicles are used by professionals at med spas, doctor’s offices and salons. Companies also sell at-home hair removal devices with similar technology that offer hirsute consumers DIY options.

Hair can also be removed from the body by topical formulations such as waxes, gels, creams and lotions.

Here is a look at different types of hair removal devices, techniques and formulations and an overview of popular brands in hair removal.

MECHANICAL HAIR REMOVAL

Razors and Disposable Shavers

Razor blades (razors) and shavers are considered “wet shave” products as they often require a lubricant such as shaving cream or soap, which helps lift the hair off the skin before the razor is used.

King Camp Gillette patented the very first disposable safety razor in 1904. This invention is the foundation of the multi-billion-dollar Gillette brand, a leader in shaving technologies for men and women. Gillette has made many advancements in razors: the adjustable razor (1957); twin-blades (1972); pivoting heads (1977); three-blades (1998); five blades (2006); Treo, a razor designed for caregivers (2017); and heated razor (2019). Gillette was acquired by Procter & Gamble in 2005 in a deal valued at $57 billion.

Schick is another historical razor brand that is well-known in the US. It traces its origins to US Army Lieutenant Colonel Jacob Schick, who in the early 1920s invented the magazine repeating razor which had replacement blades stored in the handle. In 1946, Eversharp acquired what was Schick’s Magazine Repeating Razor Company and renamed it Schick Safety Razor Company. In 1963, Schick became the first US manufacturer to sell stainless steel blades coated with Teflon. Warner-Lambert acquired Schick in 1970. Warner-Lambert was the first company to patent a lubricating strip above the blades.

Today, Schick, Wilkinson Sword and American Safety Razor (another long-time razor maker) are part of Edgewell Personal Care.

Bic was the first company to launch a one-piece razor in 1975. It continues to make disposable shaving products today.

Dollar Shave Club and Harry’s were considered industry disruptors in the shaving and razor market when they entered the category in 2011 and 2012, respectively. Each sold their razors direct to consumers rather than through traditional retailers.

Dollar Shave Club was acquired by Unilever in 2016. In 2020, the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) stepped in to block a deal in which Harry’s would have been acquired by Edgewell. FTC said the Harry’s acquisition would “eliminate one of the most important competitive forces in the shaving industry.”

Women also use razors and shavers for hair removal at home. This practice gained popularity starting in the 1900s. According to the Women’s Museum of California, a 1914 advertisement in Harpers’ Bazaar promoted hair removal. In 1915, a device called Gillette’s Milady Décolleté was advertised to remove women’s underarm hair.

Both Edgewell and P&G market women’s versions of their flagship razor brands—the Schick Intuition and Gillette Venus, respectively. Edgewell also owns female razor brand Billie (acquired in 2021). Bic’s women’s razor brand is called Soleil.

The global women’s razor market was valued at $3.97 billion in 2022, according to Arizton.

Dollar Shave's Double Header hair removal device.

Electric Razors & Shavers

Makers of electric razors and shaver hair removal devices include Philips Norelco, Panasonic, Remington and Braun (which is owned by Procter & Gamble). Devices include tools to shave hair from the face, as well as trim beards and facial hair. These are often considered dry shave products as they do not require the use of water or another liquid such as shave cream.

Unisex Hair Removal Devices

As the interest in more detailed grooming routines grew among men, there has been greater interest in hair removal devices and trimming devices used for body hair, too.

While many of these electric devices have been geared to men and women separately, as the personal care space becomes more gender inclusive, brands are marketing more unisex products. For example, in 2022, a body hair grooming brand called Meridian rebranded away from male-centric positioning to a more inclusive, “body hair-positive, and judgment-free” self-care brand. The company is owned by Pangaea Holdings.

Meridian has now a unisex brand.

Preceding this, in 2019, Bic rolled out Bic Made For You unisex shavers. A year later, Bic expanded its unisex grooming product portfolio with a line of personal care products and razors under the brand name of Us.

Similar to shaving, dermaplaning is an exfoliation method that uses a scalpel-like tool to remove dead skin cells from face. This device also removes superficial facial hair, sometimes referred to as peach fuzz.

Hair removal with devices such as shavers and razors as well with topical formulations deliver temporary relief from unwanted hair.

For longer-lasting or permanent hair removal, consumers must use different methods that can often require more than one treatment.

Some hair removal devices work by epilation— removal of the hair mechanically by the roots. Players in this space include Epilady, Braun, Panasonic, Philips Norelco and Finishing Touch Flawless, which is owned by Church & Dwight. Church & Dwight acquired the parent company of Flawless in 2019.

Electrolysis remains the only method for permanent hair removal approved by the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA).

Women have more choices for at-home hair removal today.

During electrolysis, a thin, needle-like wire is inserted into the hair follicle. An electric current travels down to the root of the follicle, destroying any chance of hair regrowth.

“Like laser hair removal, electrolysis provides a long-term solution for unwanted hair,” said According to Dr. Kim Nichols, Board-Certified Dermatologist and Founder of NicholsMD, Greenwich, CT. “Electrolysis destroys the reproductive hair cell, ensuring the hair never grows back. It is a more permanent solution.”

Multiple electrolysis sessions are also recommended to deliver optimal results, according to experts like Dr. Nichols.

“Hair grows in different stages: the growing phase, the regressing phase, and the resting phase. Each follicle will be at a different part of its growing phase so multiple sessions are required,” she explained.

Laser Hair Removal

According to Dr. Nichols, during laser hair removal, a laser emits a light that is absorbed by the melanin in the hair. The wavelengths or pulses are converted to heat that harm the hair follicles. Damaging those hair follicles will delay hair regrowth. In the interim, while the follicles are not yet destroyed, the hair will grow back thinner.

“At my practice, I suggest our patients needs at least 6-8 treatments, depending upon the density of hair in the body area. After the final treatment of the laser hair removal, most patients report an approximate 80-85% permanent hair removal. For some patients, depending upon starting hair density and other factors, you may need 1-3 single treatments after your initial series to reach this 80-85% permanent hair removal,” said Dr. Nichols.

Rarely users may need a few maintenance treatments over the years after the series for some of the few remaining hairs, if desired.

When considering laser hair removal, consulting with your board-certified dermatologist is imperative, insists Dr. Nichols. “While it may seem like a simple treatment, any sort of laser can raise the risk of a burn or discoloration,” she said.

Lasers use monochromatic laser light. IPL uses broad spectrum pulse of light

Brands offering at-home hair removal through laser light technology include Braun, Nood Inc., Tria Beauty, RoseSkin Co, Silk’n and Iluminage.

Topical Hair Removal–Liquid Formulations

Hair can also be removed effectively through topical formulations. These products and methods can be traced back to the ancient Egyptians, who “sugared” away unwanted stray strands with mixtures made of natural components like honey, oils and waxes.

Today’s consumers can use hair removal waxes applied at home or by a service provider (such as European Wax Center). There are also depilatory creams, gels and lotions that remove hair at the surface of the skin. These methods are not permanent; hair will grow back. Popular consumer brands in this space include Nair, Nad’s and Completely Bare.

You can look through Happi’s annual Buyers Guide to find the raw materials to formulate depilatories, waxes, lotions and creams.

Information hair removal patents can be found here.

Vaniqa is an FDA approved prescription cream designed to eliminate facial hair for women. It was approved by FDA in 2019.

Mass Market Data for Hair Removal: Razors, Blades & Shave Cream

Here is recent mass market sales data on razor blades, shavers (manual and electric), according to Information Resources Inc.

Total US – Multi Outlet (Grocery, Drug, Mass Market, Military and Select Club & Dollar Retailers) for the atest 52 weeks ending Oct. 30, 2022.

CHART

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