Laser hair removal is widely considered to be the most efficient method of hair removal, however it doesn't come without its drawbacks. One of the biggest areas of contention with laser hair removal treatment is whether it can be used on people with darker skin.
In this article, we reveal the truth about laser hair removal and its suitability for patients with darker skin tones.
The Truth about Laser Hair Removal and Dark Skin
Early Generation Lasers and Dark Skin ToneWhy is Laser Hair Treatment on Dark Skin More Risky than Light Coloured Skin?New Generation Laser Technology - the Nd:YAG LaserStudy 1 - 39 Women with Underarm Hair Removal (2012)ResultsStudy 2 - 200 Female Patients with Facial Hair Removal (2010)Results
Study 3 - 20 Female Patients with Facial, Underarm and Leg Hair Removal (2001)ResultsLack of Clinical Data for Nd:YAG safety on Fitzpatrick Type VIHow to Limit the Side Effects of Laser Hair Removal on Skin of ColourIn Conclusion: Is Laser Hair Removal Safe on Patients with Darker Coloured Skin?Resources
Early Generation Lasers and Dark Skin Tone
Historically, early generation lasers for hair removal were not suitable for people with ethnic skin or 'skin of colour'. There has been a significant amount of research to suggest that using one of these early generation laser devices on such skin tones was not safe due to a high risk of hyper pigmentation and scarring.
The early generation lasers were only suitable for people with Fitzpatrick type I - IV (see table below):
Skin Type |
Skin Colour |
Hair Color (darkest) |
Eye Colour |
Description |
|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
White or very pale |
Blonde |
Blue, grey, green |
Always burns, never tans |
2 |
Pale white with beige tint |
Chestnut or dark blond |
Blue |
Always burns, sometimes tans |
3 |
Beige to light brown (olive) |
Dark brown |
Dark brown |
Sometimes burns, always tans |
4 |
Light to moderate brown |
Black |
Brown |
Rarely Burns, always tans |
5 |
Medium to Dark Brown |
Black |
Brownish black |
Rarely burns, tans more than average |
6 |
Dark brown to black |
Black |
Black |
Never burns |
However, over the last decade, new laser types have been researched and introduced to the market. These new lasers operate at a different wavelength to the early generation ones and are said to be safer for patients with skin types IV to VI on the Fitzpatrick scale.
Why is Laser Hair Treatment on Dark Skin More Risky than Light Coloured Skin?
Laser hair removal
However, melanin is also responsible for pigmentation in skin - this is called epidermal melanin. The concentration of epidermal melanin increases in correlation with the darkness of the skin - therefore people who have skin tones of V and VI on the Fitzpatrick scale exhibit the highest concentration of epidermal melanin.
When a patient has high amounts of epidermal melanin, the absorption of laser energy by the target hairs can be compromised due to it being absorbed by the melanin in the skin. Not only does this mean that the hair removal is less effective, but it can also lead to burns, hyperpigmentation and scarring.
New Generation Laser Technology - the Nd:YAG Laser
Over the last decade, the laser hair removal field has had a lot of research leading to the discovery of new laser types.
One of these new laser types is called the Nd:YAG laser. It's a laser that operates at a much higher wavelength than any of the other lasers that are used for hair removal (typically 1064nm).
More importantly, however, is that it has some unique properties that make it more suitable for laser hair removal on darker colour skin tones.
Study 2 - 200 Female Patients with Facial Hair Removal (2010)
In a study published by Nanda et al in 2010, 200 consecutive female patients underwent Nd:YAG laser hair reduction on their face.
Results
The results revealed that there was more than a 50% reduction in hair count in 72% of cases. None of the patients experienced a higher hair count and only temporary side effects were noted.
The study concluded that "long pulsed Nd: YAG is a very safe and effective means of hair reduction in skin types IV and V".
My main reservation with this study is that no patients had Fitzpatrick VI skin type so we don't have any data of the Nd:YAG efficacy and safety for people with the darkest skin colour.
Lack of Clinical Data for Nd:YAG safety on Fitzpatrick Type VI
While the clinical data to support the user of Nd:YAG laser hair removal on darker skin types is encouraging, there does seem to be a lack of scientific evidence based on tests with Fitzpatrick type VI. In fact, in a paper by Alexis AF in 2013, this has been acknowledged:-
In Conclusion: Is Laser Hair Removal Safe on Patients with Darker Coloured Skin?
The Nd:YAG laser is the only laser that is specifically catered for use on patients with dark coloured skin and thus It is the only laser that should be used on skin types V and darker.
All scientific studies looking at the efficacy and safety of the Nd:YAG laser on dark coloured skin are positive. In every study I've read the side effects were minimal and temporary.
Furthermore, hair reduction counts were impressive, ranging from 50% at 3 months after the final treatment right the way up to 70-90% at 12 months after the final treatment.
Important Cautionary Note - Find a Professional
Despite the studies, if you have dark skin then you are inherently more at risk of unwanted side effects than someone with light coloured skin if the treatment is performed incorrectly.
There have been studies to show that skin type VI may absorb as much as 40% more energy when irradiated by a visible light laser than does skin type I or II when fluence and exposure duration remain constant.
If the laser operator doesn't reduce the fluence, extend the exposure duration and use adequate cooling then you are at risk of unwanted side effects that include permanent pigmentation damage and scarring.
Therefore, it is really important that you, as a consumer, do your homework to make sure that the laser operator is proficient.
