In recent years, niacinamide has emerged as a highly sought-after active ingredient in skincare, and for a multitude of compelling reasons.
This article delves into the numerous benefits that niacinamide offers for the skin, what to consider when selecting a serum, and how to effectively incorporate it into your routine as advised by esteemed board-certified dermatologists.
What is Niacinamide?
Niacinamide, a derivative of vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin that plays a vital role in maintaining the health of both the body and the skin [1].
According to Dr. Davin Lim, a board-certified dermatologist, niacinamide is recognized for its remarkable versatility as an active ingredient, making it one of the most user-friendly skincare vitamins available. Its high tolerance and minimal side effects stand in stark contrast to those associated with vitamin A (retinol) and vitamin C.
Incorporating niacinamide through serums is an effective way to harness its various skin benefits within your daily skincare regimen. The lightweight nature of serums allows for the delivery of concentrated active ingredients directly into the skin, targeting specific concerns efficiently.
What are the Benefits of Niacinamide for the Skin?
Dr. Shereene Idriss, a board-certified dermatologist, notes that the topical application of niacinamide can serve multiple functions in promoting skin health, including:
What Can Niacinamide Be Used For?
Given its diverse and well-documented biological functions, niacinamide is suitable for all skin types and can address a variety of skin concerns. Board-certified dermatologists frequently utilize it for:
What is the Optimal Concentration for Use?
With an understanding of its extensive benefits and applications, you might assume that a higher concentration of niacinamide in your serum is always better. However, this is a misconception.
Niacinamide serums are available in concentrations ranging from 2% to 20%, with 10% being the most prevalent. Yet, Dr. Jenny Liu, a board-certified dermatologist, emphasizes that most of niacinamide's benefits have been confirmed at lower concentrations, specifically between 2% and 5%. In fact, higher concentrations often lack substantial evidence supporting their effectiveness.
Dr. Shereene Idriss further asserts that “more is not necessarily better,” as formulations exceeding 5% (like those containing 10%) can lead to irritation, inflammation, and breakouts—precisely the issues users aim to solve.
In light of this, many board-certified dermatologists suggest opting for niacinamide serums with concentrations between 2% and 5%. Moreover, considering serums that combine niacinamide with other beneficial ingredients can streamline your skincare routine while effectively targeting your specific concerns, as noted by Dr. Shereene Idriss.
For those using 10% serums, Dr. Idriss explains that when combined with 1% zinc (such as in The Ordinary Niacinamide Serum), zinc can mitigate potential inflammation associated with higher concentrations of niacinamide.
How to Properly Use Niacinamide Serum?
One of the standout features of niacinamide, as revealed by Dr. Davin Lim, is its compatibility with most other active skincare ingredients (including retinol and vitamin C). This characteristic allows niacinamide serums to be incorporated seamlessly into a broader skincare routine without the risk of adverse reactions.
– Should You Use It in the Morning or at Night?
Niacinamide can be applied both in the morning and at night; however, many individuals prefer using it during their nighttime routine, a practice also recommended by Dr. Davin Lim.
– How to Apply It?
If you are new to niacinamide serums, Dr. Shereene Idriss advises beginning with once-daily application and closely monitoring your skin’s response to this new addition.
As you navigate your skincare routine, products should be applied in a specific sequence. In a fundamental skincare regimen, serums should be applied after cleansing and before moisturizing , whether in your morning or evening routine.
A basic morning (AM) skincare routine may look like this:
A basic night (PM) skincare routine might resemble this:
Why This Order? Dr. Muneeb Shah, a board-certified dermatologist, categorizes skincare routines into three essential stages:
1. CLEANSE: It’s crucial to cleanse away dirt, sweat, oil, and impurities to prepare your skin to absorb the beneficial active ingredients in your skincare products.
2. TREAT: This stage focuses on applying serums that are rich in active components tailored to your skin’s specific issues.
3. PROTECT: This stage involves using moisturizer to prevent moisture loss, followed by sunscreen in the morning to shield the skin from harmful UV rays.
Dr. Shah explains that the treatment phase is when niacinamide exerts its effects on the skin, just before sealing it in with a moisturizer.
Conclusion
Niacinamide has proven itself to be an exceptional multifunctional active ingredient that is suitable for all skin types and capable of effectively addressing a broad array of skin concerns while maintaining excellent tolerance. While it undoubtedly lives up to the hype, it's imperative to recognize that concentration plays a crucial role. To reap the full benefits of niacinamide without risking inflammatory reactions, dermatologists typically recommend using serums with concentrations between 2% and 5%, as supported by scientific evidence for both efficacy and safety.
References
[1] Boo, Y. C. (2021). Mechanistic Basis and Clinical Evidence for the Applications of Nicotinamide (Niacinamide) to Control Skin Aging and Pigmentation. Antioxidants, 10(8), 1315. https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox10081315
[2] Gehring, W. J. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. https://doi.org/10.111
