Ask The Kit is the real-talk advice column you never knew you needed. Every week, editor-at-large Kathryn Hudson answers your pressing beauty and style questions. What’s the best blazer for work? How should you deal with errant chin hairs? What’s the best way to fight frizz? Send your Qs to ask@thekit.ca.
“I’d love to have smooth legs all the time. Last month, I shaved and, before I did, I used an exfoliator glove along with shaving cream and a new razor. I thought I was doing things right, but within a few days I developed red bumps on the top of my thighs in the bikini area that are slowly disappearing but are still there. I’ve read about things like baking powder or apple cider vinegar as fixes, but do they work?” — Jordan, Toronto
The internet is an amazing thing. I can read Plato and consume cat memes; I can do my online banking while streaming Netflix. The mix is what makes it addictive—but that mix is also what makes a quick online search frustrating: peer-reviewed science pops up shoulder-to-shoulder with the musings of self-labeled experts. Sorting through the mess is exhausting and most of us don’t even try. As comedian Ronny Chieng said of the internet in his recent Netflix special, “Who knew all of human knowledge could make people dumber?”
I bring this up because your question about the efficacy of simple have-them-in-the-cupboard-already ingredients taps into the lifeblood of clickbait beauty and wellness blogs, which always, always seem to be promising us that “the miracle ingredient for effortlessly perfect, clear skin is already in our homes.” Wouldn’t that be nice? Of course it would; that’s why we click. But nothing in life is perfect or simple—just ask my toddler son who proclaimed, “This is all too hard!” dramatically this morning before lying face down on the living room floor. I have no idea what “this” referred to because he is coddled beyond all measure, but I did realize that I would love to be able to shout that on occasion—say, while figuring out whether something is safe just because it’s natural, or after getting bumpy legs despite going out of my way to make sure they stayed silky smooth, like you did.
Luckily, we don’t have to despair. We just have to proceed with caution, says Dr. Benjamin Barankin, a Toronto dermatologist and medical director of the Toronto Dermatology Centre. Apple cider vinegar likely won’t help your razor bumps; neither will baking powder (baking soda, I should mention, is an extremely popular DIY skincare suggestion, but you should leave that in the pantry for now, too). Not only that, they could be quite irritating for your skin—especially if you have sensitive skin or conditions like eczema—and could disrupt its natural pH.
And before you can proceed to the treatment stage, it’s best to figure out why your hairs are getting trapped under the skin, causing the bumps in the first place. “These bumps—medically termed pseudofolliculitis barbae—are most common in people with a tendency toward curly hair,” explains Barankin. It’s more difficult for coiled and fine hairs to poke back out through the skin; this is also likely why your razor bumps are appearing at the bikini area, where hair tends to be more textured.
“Prevention is key,” he says, suggesting that if you’re prone to these bumps, it might be best to avoid a super-close shave. “There are blades that don’t shave as close, like the new Gillette SkinGuard.” That way, hair doesn’t have to grow back out through the skin. That’s also the logic behind using clippers as a handy tool for trimming finer hair without worrying about ingrown hairs or irritation; a pro-tip drag artist Brock Hayhoe—who performs as Brooke Lynn Hytes—shared.
“Then, make sure the area is warmed, apply shaving cream to improve glide, and shave with the grain only, not against,” he explains. While the shave won’t be quite as smooth, it’s more likely to leave you bump-free.
And afterward, though your shave might be complete, your work isn’t: “Applying cold water right after shaving can help,” says Barankin. Reaching for that exfoliator glove regularly—albeit it gently—can also be useful, helping to make sure your hairs reach the surface as they grow in.
If you do happen to occasionally get razor bumps, they can be treated with a mild topical steroid or antibiotic, says Barankin. (Think: over-the-counter hydrocortisone creams or ask your doctor.) If you prefer a more natural approach, witch hazel can be soothing if daubed on with a cotton pad. “And alcohol is drying, which is sometimes helpful, and other times irritating, depending on your skin type and the weather,” he explains. If you’d like to go totally product-free, “don’t pop or squeeze these bumps, but if you do see an ingrown hair, you can try to get it out with a fine needle if you feel comfortable.”
There are lots of options that can leave you bump-free: Laser hair removal is, of course, a more expensive and long-term solution if you’re looking for that kind of commitment; and leaving the fine hairs on your upper thighs alone is the strategy that exists on the other end of the spectrum, since they probably aren’t very noticeable anyway.
Whatever you decide, I applaud your attitude, preparation and critical thinking. Questioning what we read is something most of us should do more often.
Shop the Advice
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The Shaving Cream
Weleda shaving cream, $16, healthpalace.ca
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