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Barely-there makeup is trending and without the distraction of a perfectly-sketched winged liner, well-groomed brows have never been more essential. Fortunately, eyebrow waxing is one of the easiest and most transformative brow-shaping situations — whether you choose always-thick, feathered brows like Lily Collins, or you're embracing the Y2K revival of razor-thin tadpoles.
While it's tempting to go down the DIY route, suffice it to say, don't try this at home, folks. We can't stress enough the importance of going to a trained professional to avoid bare patches caused by a misplaced bit of wax, scrawny ends, and, yup, even burns.
Skin Check
An insider’s guideserum recs
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"The skin around the brows is extremely delicate and susceptible to irritation, inflammation, and scarring, so there needs to be a basic understanding of anatomy, otherwise damage can occur," says Mona Gohara, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Connecticut. "Don't cut corners by waxing your own eyebrows – one wrong move and it can be months of healing," she adds.
Safety aside, there are also aesthetics to consider. Like the hairs on your head, brows come in all shapes, sizes, textures, and colors – something a brow artist knows only too well. They'll tailor the shape to frame your eyes and add definition to your face, while ensuring your brows don't stray too far from what they look like naturally.
"Brows are like snowflakes; no two are the same," says Los Angeles-based René de la Garza, aesthetician and founder of Brow Down Studio (he's responsible for Cardi B and Lizzo's expertly-sculpted arches). "Creating a brow shape takes face shape, brow evenness, proportion, density, and growth pattern into consideration," he adds. "The intention is always to have lift and a more open eye – sometimes it means taking brows thinner or thicker, or adjusting the angles of the arch to go higher or lower."
Recently, the brow scene feels like a pretty crowded party with microblading and brow lamination stealing the limelight. But a classic shape is always worth booking in for, so don't sleep on waxing — it might be just the thing to achieve the brows of your dreams.
Curious to find out more? We asked the experts to share how eyebrow waxing stands apart from other hair removal techniques and what their favorite aftercare products are.
Meet the experts:
Mona Gohara, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Connecticut.
René de la Garza, an aesthetician and the founder of Brow Down Studio in Los Angeles.
Laura Lam-Phaure, a cosmetic chemist based in Los Angeles.
Robin Evans, an eyebrow artist in New York City.
Ellen Marmur, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City and founder of her own brand, MMSkincare.
What's Ahead:
What is eyebrow waxing, exactly?
What are the benefits of brow waxing over other kinds of hair removal?
What are the downsides & potential risks of eyebrow waxing?
What is the process like?
What about aftercare?
How often should you get your eyebrows waxed?
How much does eyebrow waxing cost?
What is eyebrow waxing, exactly?
Eyebrow waxing starts with a thin layer of warm wax applied to the hairs you wish to remove. A paper strip is placed over the top, the wax solidifies, and gentle pressure is applied to trap the individual hairs. Then, the strip is swiftly pulled away, pulling the hairs out directly from the root.
For those who've never considered what the wax actually is, it's basically a lipophilic (or oil-loving) substance that is solid at room temperature and begins to melt at about 45 to 50 degrees Celsius (113 to 120 degrees Fahrenheit), as cosmetic chemist Laura Lam-Phaure explains.
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If you ask New York City brow artist Robin Evans, soft wax is the superior option for a precise finish and thorough de-fuzzing. "Occasionally, hard wax is used, which, once it hardens, removes hair on its own without the need for strips," Evans tells Allure. "But I prefer using soft wax as it's more pliable when warm, so it grabs onto the hairs better," she says.
The warmth from the wax also acts as a pore softener which allows the hair to be removed directly from the follicle without breakage, adds Evans.
What are the benefits of brow waxing over other kinds of hair removal?
As opposed to eyebrow threading and plucking, waxing is considered the most precise hair removal method, especially for dealing with peach fuzz surrounding the brow. "With threading and tweezing, hair removal is limited to the hairs that are visible," says de la Garza. "Waxing removes vellus hair [peach fuzz] and gives the appearance of a softer brow shape," he adds.
Fans of sugaring love its natural formula – lemon, sugar, and water – "but it doesn't remove coarse hairs as well as waxing," says Evans. Equally, eyebrow waxing is said to be gentler on the hair follicles than using tweezers. "Plucking too much can cause scarring that looks like open pores," says Ellen Marmur, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City.
The procedure is also dermatologist approved. "Waxing is an age-old, proven and safe way to remove hair from the brows," says Dr. Marmur, noting that the hair will then grow back considerably thinner over time. "In fact, I love it so much, I have my aesthetician wax my brows once a month," she adds.
What are the downsides and potential risks of eyebrow waxing?
Overall, eyebrow waxing is considered a safe and noninvasive treatment. But that's not to say that there are no risks, explains Dr. Marmur. "These include, burning, scarring, or irritating the skin when done incorrectly," she notes. "That said, the latest waxes and a good technique by a trained professional make it my preferred method of depilation with little redness."
If done correctly, waxing also has "minimal chance of allergic reaction or harming the skin," says Dr. Gohara. However, she does warn against the grooming technique for those with extremely sensitive skin. "If you're susceptible to inflammation, waxing can disrupt the already fragile skin barrier and stoke a fire," she explains to Allure.
For the same reason, women of color should proceed with caution. "Eyebrow waxing can result in the post-procedure lightening or darkening of melanin-rich skin," Dr. Gohara says. "This is because the wax peels off the barrier in the area and the skin can discolor as it regenerates." If you notice any pigment changes, talk to your dermatologist who may recommend a fading cream.
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If post-waxing breakouts are an issue, have that conversation with your brow artist and ask them what products they intend to apply before and after, advises Dr. Gohara. "I usually steer clear of oils meant to soothe or calm," she says.
The biggest drawback, though, is missing out on the benefits of over-the-counter and prescription-strength skin care that speeds up cell turnover. "You'll need to stop using anything potentially irritating like toners, exfoliating scrubs, and even Clarisonic brushes before waxing your brows," says Dr. Marmur. "Retinoic acids and alpha hydroxy acids, in particular, turn over cells more quickly by exfoliation. This can make skin more susceptible to burns and the top layer being ripped away during waxing." She recommends giving the skin a three-day reprieve before and after waxing when using active ingredients.
You should also stop tweezing your brows for at least four weeks prior to a wax, says Evans. So be prepared for the commitment and don't time your appointment around an important event like a wedding or graduation as you'll need to go au naturale for a while.
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Generally speaking, there are no issues with having your brows waxed if you've recently had an in-office procedure or cosmetic surgery. "You should, however, wait at least 24 hours after having neuromodulators like Botox, Xeomin, or Dysport," says Dr. Marmur, noting that you should also speak to your physician first. "The only time I don't advise it is if your skin is still pink and sensitized from a treatment like Clear + Brilliant or microneedling, as you'll need more time to heal." she adds.
What is the process like?
Brow waxing sessionsEvans
Typically, the actual waxing process goes like this: A brow artist will cleanse the area first. "A mild cleanser removes dirt and bacteria on the skin that could lead to an infection and lifts away dead skin from around the hair follicle," Lam-Phaure says. "This makes it easier for the hair to be pulled out and helps to avoid post-wax pimples," she adds. In fact, de la Garza double cleanses, first with a balm before soaking a cotton pad in micellar water to break up face and brow makeup.
The brow artist will then trim the hair depending on whether you want a longer, feathery finish or something short and square. Some, like de la Garza, will then do a freehand sketch outlining the shape of the brow before the wax is warmed; others, including Evans, will apply a hydrating oil that moonlights as a barrier between the wax and the skin.
"I'll apply the wax under the brow to start setting the shape, then above it and in the space between both brows to get rid of any tiny hairs," says Evans, noting that wax is always placed in the direction of hair growth and removed in the opposite direction for a neater finish. Tweezers strategically remove any hairs closer to the brow line.
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De la Garza swears that eyebrow waxing is relatively painless. "It can almost be meditative having the warm wax applied and removed," he says. "Several of my clients even fall asleep." Although, if you are menstruating, it may be worth rescheduling your waxing appointment, says Dr. Gohara. "Fluctuations in hormones during your period may make the skin more sensitive and the procedure more painful than usual," she explains.
What about aftercare?
Needless to say, the biggest complaint about eyebrow waxing is the temporary red halo it leaves behind. If you're worried, Evans recommends following up with a hydrocortisone cream the night of the treatment and the next morning. Dr. Marmur echoes this advice, recommending Hytone 1% Cream where necessary. If you can't find it, a little Cortizone 10 or another hydrocortisone cream should suffice.
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Lam-Phaure is in favor of gentle cleansing to remove any wax residue from the surface of the skin. A fragrance-free cleansing gel is ideal, she says. "It's more effective at lifting wax off the skin than a cream formula and reduces the risk of allergens irritating the site." This is also why you should avoid wearing makeup on top of freshly-waxed skin, as the follicles are open and you're more susceptible to clogged pores. Lam-Phaure's personal favorites include Drunk Elephant's Beste No. 9 Jelly Cleanser and Augustinus Bader's The Cream Cleansing Gel, which touts amino acids to promote wound healing. The CeraVe Foaming Gel Cleanser is a great drugstore option if you're not trying to shell out the coin.
All the experts we spoke to also recommend basic skin protection in the form of barrier creams. "Waxing will often remove a bit of skin off the surface, which leaves the pores exposed," Lam-Phaure says. Dr. Gohara is a fan of First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Cream and Skinfix Barrier+Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream for repairing your barrier function and keeping skin hydrated. Glossier's After Baume and Urban Skin Rx's Even Tone Barrier Repair Ceramide Cream are two other options we like, too.
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Alternatively, Dr. Marmur says you should apply something cooling to soothe away skin redness. She name-checks her own MMRevive Everyday Serum Moisturizer with aloe, as well as good old-fashioned Pond's Cold Cream for its moisturizing effects. Honey Skin's Aloe Vera Gel is another great choice for this.
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De la Garza's picks are for keeping your brows on point in the long term. He favors Milk Makeup Kush Lash + Brow Serum and 100 percent organic castor oil to strengthen hairs and prevent breakage.
How often should you get your eyebrows waxed?
Results last four to eight weeks, although six weeks is normal for most people, says de la Garza. "You'll want to rebook every four weeks for a more groomed shape or if your brows grow quickly," he says. "But if they're a natural shape, you can stretch to eight weeks."
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It's important not to tweeze your eyebrows in between appointments as you'll risk messing up the shape. "Tweezing a few unibrow hairs is fine, but after the initial brow shaping, every hair is accounted for," warns de la Garza.
How much does eyebrow waxing cost?
The cost will vary depending on the region, but brow waxing in a salon typically costs anywhere from $15 to $30, says de la Garza. "But a specialist eyebrow artist can cost upwards of $40 to $100," he notes.
Wherever you choose to go, just be sure you're working with an artist you trust and who carefully listens to your needs and expectations. Now that you're armed with all the info, get your butt to the brow bar ASAP.
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