Everything Guys Need To Know About Waxing

Grooming

For starters, it's the most effective hair removal method.

By Adam Hurly

April 11, 2022

Removing body hair is usually an aesthetic choice, though some people simply feel better when they buff their back, chest, legs, pits, and pubes. Of the many “manscaping” options out there, waxing remains the most effective and long-lasting outside of lasering (up to four weeks before new hairs sprout up again). However, waxing’s reputation is one of pain—we can all visualize Steve Carrell in The 40-Year-Old Virgin. Ouch.

When waxing goes well, the results are fantastic—especially when you follow the post-wax care tips to a tee. For advice on all of that and everything else related to waxing, I spoke with Allison Dempsey, esthetician at Waxing by Nadia in Rockville Centre, NY. Here is her thorough insight on finding the best waxing salon, expectations around pain and process, as well as maximizing the results. There’s advice for anyone brave enough to try at-home waxing, too.

How to Pick the Right Waxing Salon

Speaking as someone who made the grave mistake of getting a low-cost waxing voucher off of Groupon a decade back, I can vouch for the importance of picking a high-quality wax studio in order to actually enjoy the results. I spent about two weeks treating an infection all across my backside and ended up skipping the very beach vacation that I had waxed myself for.

Aside from pouring over a business’s reviews, it’s important to look for specific indicators of a “good” waxing studio since unhygienic practices can really spoil your summer with a bout of folliculitis (inflamed hair follicles) or worse. Sometimes, the best observations need to be made on-site, so don’t hesitate to walk out if the place doesn’t feel right.

Dempsey says to check that the salon has proper cleaning supplies, like Barbicide—you know it from the barbershops, the stuff they soak all the combs in, and use to clean blades and clipper heads. Watch your esthetician’s process, too: “If you see the esthetician double dipping in the wax, walk out immediately,” she says. (Sure, that might involve leaving with a half-wax job, but it’s worth calling out or asking for them to open a fresh jar.) Most of us are too polite to walk out at this point, but it could save you weeks of recovery.

Understanding Different Types of Wax

Not sure what to ask for when you go in? Here are the three most prominent waxing methods to consider.

Hard Wax

Hard wax is applied directly to the skin and hardens as it cools. It adheres only to the hair and not the skin. Hard wax is most commonly used for sensitive areas, says Dempsey—notably the groin, underarms, and face. It’s one of the gentlest options for skin and also works well at removing thick, coarse hair. “An advantage of hard wax is that it doesn't require the use of strips for removal, making it suitable for smaller, more precise areas,” Dempsey explains. “It allows the waxer to have more control during the hair removal process.”

Soft Wax

This is the method where the professional uses cloth or paper strips to remove a thin layer of wax across the skin. It is less precise and is thus better for larger areas of skin, such as the legs, arms, chest, and back. “Soft wax adheres to both the hair and the skin, and when removed with the strip, it pulls the hair from the root, so it may not be the best choice for sensitive skin,” Dempsey says.

Sugaring

Sugaring is a natural option that involves a mixture of sugar, lemon juice, and hot water. A paste is applied in a thin layer and is usually removed with a strip of fabric as well. Like hard wax, though, sugaring paste adheres to the hair rather than the skin, says Dempsey. This results in less discomfort and potential skin irritation, plus it provides a good organic and natural option for those who prefer it.

Pain Expectations

We all have different levels of pain tolerance, so no two people will experience the same amount of pain with waxing. However, there are general areas of the body that deliver more pain than others. Keep in mind that soft wax—the kind that uses wax and paper or cloth strips, tends to be more painful than hard wax or sugaring since the soft wax adheres to the skin as well.

Most Painful to Wax: Groin Area and Chest or Stomach

This groin area is particularly sensitive and has a higher concentration of nerve endings, so it typically gets the most grimaces in the waxing salons. (And yes, you can even wax your balls and butthole if you were oh-so curious.)

As for the chest and stomach, they have denser hair growth and thinner skin, Dempsey explains, which increases sensitivities. Often, estheticians will “stretch” these areas when waxing. “This creates a tight surface, allowing for better adherence of the wax and minimizing discomfort,” she says.

Least Painful to Wax: Back and Butt

“The skin on the back is typically thicker and less sensitive compared to other body parts, which can lead to a milder discomfort during waxing,” Dempsey says. She adds that the butt is also far less sensitive than most other places on the body.

Pre-Wax Preparations

Waxing appointmentsproper preparations

First, skip the numbing creams. They can compromise the waxing process by forming a barrier over the skin, says Dempsey. Also, make sure to arrive freshly showered and not soaked in your own sweaty filth (ICYWW: This allows the wax to grip onto the skin more tightly.)

Make sure you are well hydrated, too, so that your skin is more pliable and less sensitive. Dempsey advises drinking ample water in the days leading up to the appointment in order to have the maximum impact.

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Exfoliate two or three days before the appointment to help prevent ingrown hairs and to ensure the least resistance when waxing. Avoid picking at any ingrowns or pimples in these same two or three days so that you don’t have any micro-wounds around the part of the body that needs to be waxed.

Your hair should also be about one-fourth of an inch or as long as a grain of rice, Dempsey notes, which is to say about two weeks’ worth of growth. Avoid shaving or trimming in that time frame—or trim it down to that length if it’s longer than that. “This allows the wax to adhere better, making it easier to remove hair from the root. Trimming or shaving the hair short before waxing makes it more difficult for the wax to grip.”

Post-Wax Recovery Plan

When you’re freshly waxed, consider it an invitation to sit still and remain cool, calm, and collected for a few days. That’s because any situation that causes sweat—like a workout, the summer heat, suffocating fabrics, tight clothing—is a recipe for disaster. “Excessive sweating and friction on the waxed areas can lead to irritation and increase the likelihood of developing ingrown hairs. Sweat can clog the hair follicles, causing inflammation and potentially leading to ingrowns as well,” Dempsey says. She advises waiting at least two days before you resume any rigorous activity (including sex) or wearing constrictive clothing.

She says to use a mild, non-irritating cleanser and gently wash the waxed areas with lukewarm during each shower. “Avoid using harsh scrubs or exfoliants for the first few days after waxing to give the skin time to heal.” And don’t touch or pick at the area either; ditto for keeping clean shirts in rotation. “You don’t want to introduce bacteria to the freshly waxed area,” Dempsey explains. Bring a clean shirt, pants, or underwear made of cotton to the appointment, which is both breathable and comfortable and should minimize any immediate irritation.

Does Hair Grow BackThinner After Waxing?

The idea that hair grows back thinner after waxing is not entirely a myth, Dempsey says. It’s true that over time, frequently waxed hair can change both texture and density. Regrowth tends to be finer and thinner in comparison to shaving since it’s new hairs sprouting from the follicle instead of blunt cuts across a dense hair shaft.

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Over time, waxing weakens the follicle itself, so it produces thinner hairs. Because of this, continuous waxing can also lead to sparser hair overall. Don’t expect it to ultimately remove your hair altogether, though. “The extent of reduction varies from person to person, depending on factors such as genetics, hormonal influences, and the specific area being waxed,” Dempsey explains. “Some individuals may achieve a significant reduction in hair growth over time, while others may experience slower or less noticeable changes.”

At-Home Waxing Advice

My recommendation is to always go to a reputable studio for a waxing. But if you insist on doing it at home, Dempsey has words of wisdom and caution.

First, you absolutely must purchase high-quality wax specifically formulated for hair removal, she says. “Avoid using DIY or low-quality wax products as they may not provide the desired results and can increase the risk of skin irritation or damage. Look for reputable brands that offer waxing kits designed for home use.” (Cirepil is a terrific choice here.)

Make sure to follow the proper heating instructions for your chosen wax, too, as overheating the wax can lead to burns and skin damage. “Always test the temperature of the wax on a small area of your skin before applying it to a larger area to ensure it is at a safe and comfortable temperature,” Dempsey urges.

Your skin needs to be clean, and your targeted hairs should be about ¼ of an inch (again, the length of a grain of rice). Never double dip in the wax, apply it in the direction of hair growth, and hold your skin tight as you remove the wax—pulling against the direction of hair growth. And once finished, adhere to the post-wax hygiene tips outlined above.