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-Colton
Karma: 2,525
Posts: 272
Loner
Inb4 Search bar comments
Hey NS, My dad just picked up a waxing iron & wax.... I kinda know what im doing but any tips on what to do/not to do??
Thanks
10 years ago
31 0
ChristianMingle
Karma: 1,202
Posts: 629
Ridiculous
Derp
10 years ago
12 0
Dobber
Karma: 9,834
Posts: 1698
Insane
Don't leave the iron in one spot for too long while spreading wax. I've heard that it can cause delam if the core gets too hot.
10 years ago
2 0
taylor_gang
Karma: 260
Posts: 309
Loner
DobberDon't leave the iron in one spot for too long while spreading wax. I've heard that it can cause delam if the core gets too hot.
This
10 years ago
0 0
NotGhood
Karma: 1,255
Posts: 2809
Addict
really scrape it down, until no wax comes off with each scrape
10 years ago
0 0
erica
Karma: 24,082
Posts: 3450
Addict
Clean dirt off before you start waxing
Both apply the wax and scrape it off from the tip of the ski to the tail.
Hydrate yo bases. Don't hesitate to do two coats, if the wax is really sinking into the bases and needs more, it's just thirsty and I like to quench base thirst....
After you scrape run a thin cloth over it, if it feels like it's sticky somewhere, that's probably where you should scrape some more
I use a buffer too on the base when I'm finished. I don't know exactly what they're called but there's probably one that you've used on pans for dishes and I just buff in a circular motion down the ski to finish it off
10 years ago
1 0
duder227
Karma: 1,175
Posts: 169
Pro
onenerdykid
Karma: 10,775
Posts: 6652
For starters make sure your ski has a sintered base. If it doesn't, then the rest of this will be an expensive exercise in futility.
Basic equipment you need:
Waxing Vice/some way to hold your skis to a table. Good idea to have a tarp or some other plastic element on the floor under the skis so wax doesn’t get on the floor. All moms will appreciate this.
Iron designed for waxing. Do not use a normal household iron. Waxing irons are specifically designed with more precision in their heating element so that they do not burn your base. Using your mom’s iron is not smart and will negate the appreciation gained in the earlier point.
Wax: for most people on here a universal wax is sufficient but if you want even better glide (especially in super cold and super warm temps) then something like Swix BP77/88/99 is an awesome choice. I use a version of BP77 or 88 all year round and it works super well. Add your specific temp of the day wax afterwards for even more zip.
5mm plexi scraper. No metal, never metal. If your scraper becomes dull (which it will) go buy a scraper sharpener. They’re cheap and will quickly become one of your favorite tools.
Brush. I use a bronze/nylon combi brush for the first brush strokes followed up with a horsehair brush for polishing. The more wax you remove from the structure, the better your glide will be (you want wax in the base, not on top of it). Most everyone here can get away with only using a bronze/nylon combi brush.
How to do it:
1. Rub the wax onto the entire base, providing a protective layer between your iron and the base.
2. Melt/drip the wax onto the base using a zig-zag pattern from edge to edge, tip to tail.
3. Make sure your iron is set to the wax’s specific temperature and run the iron over the wax, moving from tip to tail at about 1 inch per second. Make 2 or 3 passes with the iron to make sure the base is heated up enough and wax is properly absorbed.
4. After a few seconds of cooling, scrape off the warm wax. This will pull any dirt or oil or other contaminates out of your base. (do not use a chemical base cleaner instead of this as it will eat up any wax already in your base)
5. Repeat steps 1-3 and wait about 15-20 minutes until the wax has fully cooled down at room temperature. Do not place in a cold area to accelerate this, as your base will not absorb the wax properly.
6. Scrape off all of the wax. This usually takes a few passes with the scraper.
7. Brush the bases in a length-wise motion from tip to tail to remove wax from the base structure. Usually do 3-4 complete passes with the brushing
8. Repeat steps 5-7 as many times as you want. The more often you do it, the faster and stronger your bases will be.
10 years ago
5 0
kalle.
Karma: 4,664
Posts: 746
Ridiculous
onenerdykidFor starters make sure your ski has a sintered base. If it doesn't, then the rest of this will be an expensive exercise in futility.
Basic equipment you need:
Waxing Vice/some way to hold your skis to a table. Good idea to have a tarp or some other plastic element on the floor under the skis so wax doesn’t get on the floor. All moms will appreciate this.
Iron designed for waxing. Do not use a normal household iron. Waxing irons are specifically designed with more precision in their heating element so that they do not burn your base. Using your mom’s iron is not smart and will negate the appreciation gained in the earlier point.
Wax: for most people on here a universal wax is sufficient but if you want even better glide (especially in super cold and super warm temps) then something like Swix BP77/88/99 is an awesome choice. I use a version of BP77 or 88 all year round and it works super well. Add your specific temp of the day wax afterwards for even more zip.
5mm plexi scraper. No metal, never metal. If your scraper becomes dull (which it will) go buy a scraper sharpener. They’re cheap and will quickly become one of your favorite tools.
Brush. I use a bronze/nylon combi brush for the first brush strokes followed up with a horsehair brush for polishing. The more wax you remove from the structure, the better your glide will be (you want wax in the base, not on top of it). Most everyone here can get away with only using a bronze/nylon combi brush.
How to do it:
1. Rub the wax onto the entire base, providing a protective layer between your iron and the base.
2. Melt/drip the wax onto the base using a zig-zag pattern from edge to edge, tip to tail.
3. Make sure your iron is set to the wax’s specific temperature and run the iron over the wax, moving from tip to tail at about 1 inch per second. Make 2 or 3 passes with the iron to make sure the base is heated up enough and wax is properly absorbed.
4. After a few seconds of cooling, scrape off the warm wax. This will pull any dirt or oil or other contaminates out of your base. (do not use a chemical base cleaner instead of this as it will eat up any wax already in your base)
5. Repeat steps 1-3 and wait about 15-20 minutes until the wax has fully cooled down at room temperature. Do not place in a cold area to accelerate this, as your base will not absorb the wax properly.
6. Scrape off all of the wax. This usually takes a few passes with the scraper.
7. Brush the bases in a length-wise motion from tip to tail to remove wax from the base structure. Usually do 3-4 complete passes with the brushing
8. Repeat steps 5-7 as many times as you want. The more often you do it, the faster and stronger your bases will be.
this. anything onenerdykid says are words of wisdom.
10 years ago
2 0
.tomskis
Karma: 1,025
Posts: 380
Loner
Don't forget to wax your topsheets!
10 years ago
0 0
sNaubi
Karma: 2,357
Posts: 1633
Insane
https://vimeo.com/2866784
10 years ago
0 0
Dragonslayer101
Karma: 857
Posts: 283
Loner
Make sure to use goat semen, not your own semen
never again
10 years ago
2 0
adrian191
Karma: 425
Posts: 144
Pro
onenerdykidFor starters make sure your ski has a sintered base. If it doesn't, then the rest of this will be an expensive exercise in futility.
Basic equipment you need:
Waxing Vice/some way to hold your skis to a table. Good idea to have a tarp or some other plastic element on the floor under the skis so wax doesn’t get on the floor. All moms will appreciate this.
Iron designed for waxing. Do not use a normal household iron. Waxing irons are specifically designed with more precision in their heating element so that they do not burn your base. Using your mom’s iron is not smart and will negate the appreciation gained in the earlier point.
Wax: for most people on here a universal wax is sufficient but if you want even better glide (especially in super cold and super warm temps) then something like Swix BP77/88/99 is an awesome choice. I use a version of BP77 or 88 all year round and it works super well. Add your specific temp of the day wax afterwards for even more zip.
5mm plexi scraper. No metal, never metal. If your scraper becomes dull (which it will) go buy a scraper sharpener. They’re cheap and will quickly become one of your favorite tools.
Brush. I use a bronze/nylon combi brush for the first brush strokes followed up with a horsehair brush for polishing. The more wax you remove from the structure, the better your glide will be (you want wax in the base, not on top of it). Most everyone here can get away with only using a bronze/nylon combi brush.
How to do it:
1. Rub the wax onto the entire base, providing a protective layer between your iron and the base.
2. Melt/drip the wax onto the base using a zig-zag pattern from edge to edge, tip to tail.
3. Make sure your iron is set to the wax’s specific temperature and run the iron over the wax, moving from tip to tail at about 1 inch per second. Make 2 or 3 passes with the iron to make sure the base is heated up enough and wax is properly absorbed.
4. After a few seconds of cooling, scrape off the warm wax. This will pull any dirt or oil or other contaminates out of your base. (do not use a chemical base cleaner instead of this as it will eat up any wax already in your base)
5. Repeat steps 1-3 and wait about 15-20 minutes until the wax has fully cooled down at room temperature. Do not place in a cold area to accelerate this, as your base will not absorb the wax properly.
6. Scrape off all of the wax. This usually takes a few passes with the scraper.
7. Brush the bases in a length-wise motion from tip to tail to remove wax from the base structure. Usually do 3-4 complete passes with the brushing
8. Repeat steps 5-7 as many times as you want. The more often you do it, the faster and stronger your bases will be.
can you send me a link to a scrapper sharpener. You said they are cheap. The cheapest one i could find was like 25.
10 years ago
1 0
onenerdykid
Karma: 10,775
Posts: 6652
No Life
adrian191can you send me a link to a scrapper sharpener. You said they are cheap. The cheapest one i could find was like 25.
http://www.amazon.com/Plexi-Scraper-Sharpener-by-Swix/dp/B000YU3P6W
The thing that will hurt you the most is the shipping. Local shops have these kicking around for sure. Swaps and shops sometimes have them used too.
10 years ago
0 0
_Jeffrey_
Karma: 572
Posts: 1651
Insane
Oops i've been using a normal iron. I should change my ways.
10 years ago
1 0
sNaubi
Karma: 2,357
Posts: 1633
Insane
_Jeffrey_Oops i've been using a normal iron. I should change my ways.
usually that is fine, but its a really high risk of burning the wax unusable or rek your bases
10 years ago
0 0
SofaKingSick
Karma: 59,462
Posts: 9148
Crazy Fool
onenerdykidIron designed for waxing. Do not use a normal household iron. Waxing irons are specifically designed with more precision in their heating element so that they do not burn your base. Using your mom’s iron is not smart and will negate the appreciation gained in the earlier point.
my friend and i were talking about this the other day (what's the difference between a ski wax iron and a regular one made for clothes?)
it seems really weird to me that the difference is that a ski wax iron has MORE precision than one made for nice clothes. do you mean a different temperature range as well?
i had no idea what the difference was though. i thought it was just fewer holes and possibly a crappier iron haha idk
10 years ago
0 0
B.Quincy
Karma: 963
Posts: 1074
Insane
Titsandwich11my friend and i were talking about this the other day (what's the difference between a ski wax iron and a regular one made for clothes?)
it seems really weird to me that the difference is that a ski wax iron has MORE precision than one made for nice clothes. do you mean a different temperature range as well?
i had no idea what the difference was though. i thought it was just fewer holes and possibly a crappier iron haha idk
Fewer holes, wider surface, and lower more controlled temp.
10 years ago
0 0
SofaKingSick
Karma: 59,462
Posts: 9148
Crazy Fool
B.QuincyFewer holes, wider surface, and lower more controlled temp.
okay that makes perfect sense. thanks dude
10 years ago
0 0
UilyJeff
Karma: 1,480
Posts: 394
Loner
Do a hot scrape if it's your first time doing it. I do one every 3-4 waxes and you'd be surprised at the level of junk that comes off.
10 years ago
0 0
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