Laser hair removal has been commercially available since the mid 1990’s. Its efficacy is now generally accepted, and its popularity is growing steadily.
According to the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery, laser hair removal was the third most popular non-surgical aesthetic procedure carried out in 2012 (with the number of treatments exceeding 1.2 million).
Ultimate Guide to Laser Hair Removal
What is Laser Hair Removal? Laser Hair Removal RegulationHow Laser Hair Removal WorksHow Long to see Results?Why Multiple Sessions?Structure of the hair follicle Growth Cycle of Hair Significance to Laser Hair RemovalIs Laser Hair Removal Permanent?What Does Permanent Hair Reduction Mean?Is Success Guaranteed?Laser Hair Removal - LimitationsWhat are the Different Types of Laser?The Fitzpatrick ScaleThe Ruby LaserWavelengthWhich Skin Type?Pros of Ruby LaserCons of Ruby LaserSummaryThe Alexandrite LaserWavelengthWhich Skin Type?Pros of Alexandrite LaserCons of Alexandrite LaserSummaryThe Diode LaserWavelengthWhich Skin Type?Pros of Diode LaserCons of Diode LaserSummary
Nd: YAGWavelengthWhich Skin Type?Pros of Nd:YAGCons of Nd:YAGSummaryWhat About IPL?WavelengthWhich Skin Type?Pros of IPLCons of IPLSummaryPotential Side Effects of Laser Hair Removal"Normal" Side EffectsLess Common Side EffectsPrecautions to Minimize RisksBefore TreatmentAfter TreatmentHow painful is Laser hair Removal?How to Reduce the PainCost of Laser Hair RemovalIs Laser Hair Removal Safe?What about Radiation from Laser Hair Removal?Further InformationResources
What is Laser Hair Removal?
Laser hair removal is the removal of unwanted hair by the process of selective photothermalysis. That is to say that the area being treated is exposed to pulses of laser light with the aim of destroying the hair follicle, causing the hair to fall out.
Laser Hair Removal Regulation
The FDA, which is the US Federation for Drug Administration is responsible for the protection of public health. The FDA’s Center for Devices and Radiological Health regulates laser equipment, whilst the practice of professional hair removal generally is regulated by state and local authorities.
Therefore, providing a laser device is FDA registered and approved for commercial use, you can be sure that it has been rigorously tested for safety.
Conversely, regulation surrounding the qualifications of the operator of this equipment is less stringent, and varies from state to state.
How Laser Hair Removal Works
Laser hair removal devices use visible and invisible (infrared) light to target the dark pigment, melanin, found in hair and skin.
Melanin, which is prevalent around the base of the hair follicle, absorbs the light which is converted to hot energy. This, in turn, damages the follicle sufficiently to cause the hair to fall out, usually 1 - 2 weeks following treatment.
The process matches a specific wavelength of light and pulse duration, determined by the skin and hair type of each individual. The ultimate goal is to try to cause sufficient damage to prevent regrowth.
Hair removal lasers operate between 700 - 1400 nanometers (nms) depending on which type of laser is being used. (A nanometer is the unit of measurement for the wavelengths of light and infrared radiation).
Is Laser Hair Removal Permanent?
The FDA has recognised and approved certain devices as providing permanent hair reduction.
Their definition of this is: "the long term, stable reduction in the number of hairs re-growing after a treatment regime, which may include several sessions.
Permanent hair reduction does not necessarily imply the elimination of all hairs in the treatment area."
What Does Permanent Hair Reduction Mean?
The FDA further states that the number of hairs re-growing must be stable over time greater than the duration of the complete growth cycle of hair follicles.
As can be seen from the table above, this can vary from 4 - 12 months depending on body location. So in terms of the FDA definition, "permanent" can vary.
Good results can be achieved, of up to 80% reduction or more. It is most likely that, following initial treatment regime, top-up maintenance sessions will be required at least annually.
Is Success Guaranteed?
According to the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery it is impossible to determine in advance who will require how many treatments and how long hair will remain gone.
In fact, success generally is impossible to determine in advance. Inexplicably, some individuals who are seemingly "ideal" candidates i.e. with light skin and dark hair, will not respond well to the treatment.
Conversely, some have reported complete hair removal (this is not necessarily common and should not be expected).
It is true to say, however, that good results have been achieved in the majority of cases and that many individuals have expressed themselves very happy with the outcome of their treatment.
Laser Hair Removal - Limitations
Whilst certain lasers for hair removal are now able to successfully treat darker skin, there are still none suitable for fair, grey or light red hair.
Although it is likely that this will be remedied at some time, in the not too distant future, the only permanent solution in these cases currently available is electrolysis.
The Ruby Laser
The Ruby Laser (epilaser) was the first to be developed for use commercially as a laser hair removal system. It has a proven track record for both efficacy and safety.
It works best for those with light skin and dark hair, and has an inbuilt cooling system which conducts heat away from the skin before, during and after each pulse of the laser.
There is a 2 second delay between each laser pulse in order to take the heat from the skin, thus reducing the risks of burns. This also reduces the pain - the quicker the laser pulse, the more discomfort is felt.
Wavelength
694nm
Which Skin Type?
Skin types I and II on the Fitzpatrick scale.
Summary
The Ruby laser has a long track record of achieving good results in hair reduction for those with dark hair and fair skin.
There are other, newer types of laser devices which have been developed to treat individuals which fall outside of these parameters.
The Diode Laser
These machines are relatively new and are different to other systems in that diodes or semiconductors are used to form the light source of the laser..
The laser wavelength can be adjusted to suit your needs by changing the current applied to the diodes.
Diode laser hair removal systems are suitable for use on darker skin types and best for thick, coarse hair, making them ideal for treating back and chest areas.
Wavelength
800nm - 810nm
Which Skin Type?
Skin types I - IV on the Fitzpatrick Scale
Summary
Diode laser systems effectively treat large areas, quickly.
They are suitable for all skin types, but particularly for I - IV on the Fitzpatrick scale.
There is limited research available on which to form conclusions as to long term efficacy and safety as they are the newest of the laser hair removal systems currently available.
What About IPL?
Stricly speaking, IPL (intense pulsed light) is not a laser system, the main difference being the way in which light is used. In order to avoid confusion, we have included a brief outline below, as some clinics still offer IPL hair removal.
Whereas lasers emit light rays of a single wavelength (monochromatic), IPL uses full spectrum light (polychromatic) and low-range infrared radiation.
The rays are filtered to allow range of wavelengths (between 500 – 1200 nm’s). This means that IPL uses a scattered approach, covering a larger area than lasers, but in a less targeted way.
For more a more in-depth comparison see here
Wavelength
Variable 500 - 1200nm
Which Skin Type?
Skin type I - II on the Fitzpatrick Scale
Summary
IPL is most suited to treating individuals with light skin and dark, coarse hair, but the technology is rather outdated and generally considered less effective than laser hair removal.
Precautions to Minimize Risks
Before Treatment
Before embarking on any laser hair removal treatment you should carry out the following precautionary measures to minimize any potential risks:
After Treatment
Cost of Laser Hair Removal
The overall cost of any hair removal treatment programme will obviously vary depending upon a number of factors.
The cost of each individual session can range from $150 - $250 for underarm and from $600 - $1,100 for full arms/legs
Given that full treatment is likely to consist of up to 8 sessions, it is easy to see that a significant outlay will required.
It is important to "shop around" before making a choice, but we would advise against making the choice purely based on cost alone. We would also advise a cautious approach to cut price deals.
Further Information
For more in-depth information regarding the safety of laser hair removal see our articles:
