QUICK OVERVIEW:
The Clean Beauty movement has sparked significant interest in the use of safer cosmetic ingredients, leading to a heightened awareness among consumers. This has resulted in the perception that certain substances can be classified as “good” or “bad” for skin health, which may not always be accurate. Concerns regarding issues such as endocrine disruption, dermatitis, irritation, and even cancer have alarmed many shoppers, prompting them to question the safety of their beauty products.
But do these ingredients truly pose the risks they’re rumored to? The truth about cosmetic formulations is often more nuanced than a simple black-and-white perspective. In this article, we will explore essential considerations regarding cosmetic ingredients and help you determine if you should completely avoid them.
1. PARABENS
Parabens serve as widely used preservatives that inhibit the growth of bacteria and mold in skincare products, effectively prolonging their shelf life and ensuring microbiological safety. Common parabens found in cosmetics include methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, and butylparaben.
Concerns vs Facts: The primary worry regarding parabens revolves around their potential to act as endocrine disruptors, which has led to associations with breast cancer development. However, the American Cancer Society states that there is currently no epidemiological evidence or human studies directly linking parabens to health issues, including breast cancer. Assessments have concluded that parabens are safe for use in cosmetics provided that their concentrations adhere to regulatory limits. In fact, many products contain levels even lower than these permitted amounts, as parabens are often combined with other preservatives to reduce overall exposure.
Should you avoid them? Generally, no. However, if you prefer to steer clear of parabens, you can easily check product labels for “paraben-free” options or those endorsed as “clean” by retailers like Sephora.
2. FORMALDEHYDE
Formaldehyde is classified as a human carcinogen and skin sensitizer, making it a substance you should definitely avoid. While it is banned in the European Union, it can still be found in certain U.S. products, including nail polishes, hardeners, and professional hair strengtheners. The FDA warns that exposure to formaldehyde can result in severe irritation of the eyes, nose, and lungs, as well as skin sensitivity or allergic dermatitis. To avoid formaldehyde, scrutinize product labels for terms like formaldehyde, formalin, or methylene glycol.
Even if formaldehyde isn’t explicitly listed in a skincare product, it may be present in products containing preservatives that act as formaldehyde releasers.
3. FORMALDEHYDE RELEASERS
Formaldehyde releasers are commonly present as preservatives in various skincare products due to their antimicrobial properties. Some examples include DMDM hydantoin, Diazolidinyl urea, Imidazolidinyl urea, Sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, Quaternium-15 (which is banned in the EU), and Bronopol.
Concerns vs Facts: These substances can trigger allergic reactions, particularly in individuals sensitized to formaldehyde, leading to conditions like allergic contact dermatitis (ACD). The European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) recently recommended that products containing more than 0.001% formaldehyde be labeled with a warning to protect sensitive consumers.
Should you avoid them? You should consider avoiding these ingredients if you have a known sensitivity or have developed ACD in response to formaldehyde and its releasers, especially if your skin is compromised. If your skin is healthy, you can minimize exposure to prevent potential sensitization.
4. METHYLISOTHIAZOLINONE (MIT) AND METHYLCHLOROISOTHIAZOLINONE (CMIT)
These preservatives are often found in rinse-off products, including liquid hand soaps, shampoos, body washes, and conditioners.
Concerns vs Facts: Both MIT and CMIT are recognized as potent sensitizers, with a higher likelihood of inducing ACD compared to formaldehyde releasers. To mitigate risks, their use is restricted in rinse-off formulations to a maximum concentration of 0.0015%.
Should you avoid them? If you have sensitive or compromised skin, it may be wise to avoid these ingredients. Alternatively, you can choose products that utilize different preservative systems to minimize the risk of sensitization.
5. FRAGRANCE/PERFUME
Fragrance is a common ingredient in most cosmetic products, consisting of complex mixtures of substances derived from both natural and synthetic sources, designed to impart a pleasant scent or mask unpleasant odors. There are over 2,500 fragrance ingredients known to be utilized in these mixtures.
Concerns vs Facts: The components found in fragrances can trigger allergic reactions, often presenting as skin rashes, redness, or inflammation, particularly those derived from natural sources or nature-identical chemicals. The EU has established a list of known allergens, recently updated to include more than 80 substances, which must be declared in ingredient listings above certain concentrations. Examples of these allergens include limonene, citronellol, and citral. Conversely, U.S. regulations typically allow fragrance ingredients to be listed simply as “fragrance,” making it challenging for consumers to identify potential allergens.
Should you avoid them? You may want to avoid fragrances if you have particular sensitivities or a history of allergic reactions, eczema, or rashes associated with such ingredients, in which case opting for fragrance-free alternatives would be advisable.
6. ESSENTIAL OILS
Essential oils are intricate blends of volatile compounds derived from various plant parts. They may be included in fragrances or sold as “pure” oils intended for aromatherapy, and they can be applied directly to the skin.
Concerns vs Facts: Essential oils pose a risk for ACD due to the presence of known allergens, and some can even provoke phototoxic reactions when exposed to sunlight. For example, oils extracted from citrus fruits or bergamot contain furocoumarins, which can result in photodermatitis and phototoxic eruptions.
Should you avoid them? If you have sensitivities or allergies to well-known fragrance allergens, it's
