If you find that the glycolic acid, tretinoin, retinol, or ascorbic acid in your skincare routine isn’t addressing your skin concerns, don’t be too quick to lose hope. It's important to recognize that various active ingredients in skincare products operate at different rates on the skin.
The reason many individuals do not achieve their desired results is that they frequently switch from one product to another before giving the previous actives sufficient time to take effect. Many over-the-counter skincare products advertise results within 48 hours, but in reality, it typically takes one to two weeks to notice significant improvements; some ingredients may even require months to deliver visible results.
In response to numerous skincare enthusiasts expressing frustration over the lengthy timeline for seeing results, we reached out to Dr. Davin Lim, a certified dermatologist, for clarification.
So, how long should you expect it to take before skincare begins to show effects?
Dr. Davin explains that the efficacy of different active ingredients varies, meaning the duration for them to work also differs. Furthermore, the time it takes for skincare to produce results hinges on whether the product is designed for medical treatment or cosmeceutical purposes.
Factors That Influence the Effectiveness of Skincare
Before we explore some common active skincare ingredients and their timelines for efficacy, it’s essential to understand why the time frame can vary from person to person when using retinol, Vitamin C, AHAs, or other actives.
1. The Skin's Molecular Layers
The skin comprises three molecular layers: the epidermis, dermis, and subcutaneous tissue. When a dermatologist suggests Vitamin C for color correction, the effects may be delayed because the active ingredient must traverse from the deeper layers of the skin to become effective on the surface.
2. Recommended Application Method
Oral skincare products, such as niacinamide, may take several months—typically three to six months—before results are noticeable, whereas topical applications like creams may yield quicker feedback.
3. Age
Many people believe that using anti-aging products at a younger age can make them appear older. However, older individuals often experience rejuvenated skin after using anti-aging treatments. Therefore, if you are young and utilizing skincare products to maintain a youthful look, you may not perceive the desired anti-aging effects.
4. Purpose of Use
If your skincare routine includes products designed to serve as primers for enhancing the absorption of other ingredients, you might see immediate results. In contrast, using actives like Alpha Hydroxy Acids to stimulate collagen production typically requires weeks to months for visible results.
Expected Timelines for Skincare Results
With a plethora of active ingredients available today, it’s beneficial to understand which components work quickly and which may take longer to deliver visible changes. Skincare vitamins are pivotal for skin health and are specifically formulated to target particular skin issues.
For clarity on key active ingredients, their mechanisms, and expected results, we will categorize them into four groups: Vitamin A, Vitamin B, Vitamin C, and Alpha Hydroxy Acids. These ingredients are commonly recommended by dermatologists and skincare professionals.
Let’s begin:
1. Vitamin A
Vitamin A, often referred to as retinol or retinoid, can be prescribed by a physician or purchased over the counter. Other derivatives, such as retinaldehyde, hydroxypenicolin, and retinates, are also available without a prescription.
The timeframe for Vitamin A to produce results varies, depending on whether it’s intended for medical treatment or cosmetic enhancement. Medically prescribed retinoids undergo a rigorous approval process by regulatory bodies like the FDA, CE, and TGA, necessitating careful wording regarding expected outcomes.
When prescribed, retinoids can take up to six months to show effectiveness, with visible results for fine lines, wrinkles, and photoaging typically emerging between 8 to 12 weeks. If you’re utilizing these actives as an anti-wrinkle treatment for sun damage, a similar timeline of 8 to 12 weeks applies. In cases where stronger retinoids like tretinoin, adapalene, or tazarotene are prescribed, the average duration for noticeable results is around six months.
It’s important to note that prescription retinol is generally significantly more potent than its over-the-counter counterparts, which contributes to the longer timeline for visible effects due to pharmacological factors.
Many companies specializing in cosmeceutical products employ marketing tactics that suggest “instant results” or promise noticeable changes within 48 hours, which can often be misleading since they are not subject to the same regulatory scrutiny.
2. Vitamin B
Vitamin B encompasses various ingredients, including niacinamide (nicotinamide), thiamine, niacin (nicotinic acid), vitamins B6 and B12, biotin, riboflavin, pantothenic acid, and folic acid.
Niacinamide serves as a preventive measure against sunspots, solar keratosis, and other forms of sun damage while also enhancing skin barrier function and offering anti-inflammatory properties. When compared to Vitamins A, C, and Alpha Hydroxy Acids, Vitamin B tends to demonstrate the fastest results.
This is partly because it can significantly reduce skin inflammation and help reinforce the skin barrier within 48 to 72 hours, generally delivering noticeable effects within a week of consistent use.
In the context of mitigating sun damage, such as solar dysplasia or pre-cancerous cells, oral intake of niacinamide is advisable, with results expected within three to six months. Topical application of niacinamide, while still effective, may take a similar timeframe to show effects on sun damage.
3. Vitamin C
Vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid, is a powerful antioxidant that aids in reducing wrinkles by stimulating collagen production and inhibiting melanin, making it effective for addressing pigmentation and melasma.
Similar to Vitamin A, Vitamin C works at multiple molecular levels and serves various purposes. If used primarily for its antioxidant properties, you may not notice immediate results, as it primarily serves a preventive role by neutralizing free radicals that can damage DNA and degrade collagen and elastin.
When Vitamin C is utilized to address pigmentation issues, results may take between 4 to 8 weeks to become visible. However, for stimulating collagen production, the timeframe is typically longer, ranging from 3 to 6 months. It’s worth noting that Vitamin C is generally less effective than retinoids for anti-wrinkle applications.
