Everything You've Ever Wanted to Know About Waxing (But Were Afraid to Ask)

Reviewed by

Onyeka Obioha, MD

BOARD-CERTIFIED DERMATOLOGIST

Fact checked by

Lisa Sullivan

Whether you're a first-timer or a seasoned client, waxing inevitably raises questions. If you've never experienced hair removal through waxing, you're bound to be equal parts curious and cautious about what to expect before booking your first appointment. Even regular waxers often wonder about the true rules and best practices for preparation and post-wax maintenance.

Despite its popularity, much about waxing remains shrouded in mystery, with numerous conflicting dos and don'ts making it hard to find clear answers. To uncover the truth, we consulted experts in skincare and waxing to demystify the process. Below, they share everything you've wanted to know about waxing but have been too afraid to ask.

Meet the Expert

• Noemi Grupenmager is the founder and CEO of Uni K Wax Centers.
• Melanie Coba is a national brand ambassador for European Wax Center, a salon chain specializing in a wide range of waxing services and products.
• Nikki Babian is an esthetician who previously served as the lead trainer at the hair removal salon Spruce & Bond in Scarsdale.

Length Is Key

For the best waxing experience, Grupenmager emphasizes that the length of hair is key. This is especially important for first-timers, who in a way are going into the process blind. "For maximum results, it is ideal to grow hair out to at least one-eighth of an inch before going in for your first wax." Depending on where you're getting waxed, you can either trim hair the day before or shave far enough in advance so that hair grows to this optimum length for your appointment date. Once you've begun waxing, book your appointments in conjunction with your hair growth, typically every three to five weeks.

Know Which Ingredients to Avoid

Grupenmager says the biggest mistake she sees first-timers make is not knowing which ingredients to avoid. "It's extremely important to avoid applying retinol products to the skin before facial waxing," she warns. While retinol is one of the best ingredients for smoothing fine lines and wrinkles, minimizing pores, and treating adult acne, Grupenmager notes that "because it's so pure, it's extremely potent and even applying a thin layer can make skin more sensitive and prone to redness and irritation." Retinol use increases skin sensitivity which could make skin more vulnerable to tearing during a waxing session.1 For this reason, Grupenmager advises to not wax brows, upper lip, or any other facial area while using products with retinol.

Never Shave Between Waxes

The biggest mistake Grupenmager sees even the most seasoned clients making is shaving between waxes. "This seems like a quick fix for stubble, but shaving only removes hair at skin level, so it reappears in one to four days, and over time the skin itself becomes coarse," she warns. The detriments of shaving are countless, especially if you're trying to reap the benefits of waxing. With regular waxing, hair may eventually become finer and grow more slowly, increasing your time between waxes and reducing the appearance of hair. If you shave between your appointments, "by continually cutting the hair, you are, in fact, stimulating its growth," notes Grupenmager, "encouraging the hair to grow back faster, thicker, coarser, and fuller, resulting in more hair growing from each pore." Furthermore, every time you shave you risk getting nicks, cuts, razor burn, and ingrown hairs, aggravating the skin and increasing its risk of infection.2

Moisturize and Exfoliate Often

How you take care of your skin before and after waxing has a tremendous impact on the results. Grupenmager says exfoliating and moisturizing are a must. "Keeping your skin moisturized will ensure healthy, hydrated skin," she says. Hydration is also key, especially in winter when hair is dry and may be more likely to break when waxing. Breakage causes hair "to grow back faster and thicker," Grupenmager notes, "so you want to keep skin hydrated and healthy at all times." Exfoliating is just as important. "By exfoliating with a gentle scrub you are removing dead skin and helping to prevent ingrown hairs in the process," she advises.

Do Your Homework

Before making an appointment for the first time or at a new place, it's pertinent to read reviews and do your homework to determine the right waxing formula for your skin and your needs. "There are several formulas out there but the most popular is the traditional wax removed with strips," says Grupenmager. "This system makes for a tedious, slow, and painful procedure." Another option is hard wax, which is synthetic and not ideal for all types of skin or all areas of the body. Grupenmager says the best formula is elastic wax, which does not require strips. She uses this formula at Uni K Wax Centers as it's ideal for sensitive skin and made of all-natural ingredients like pine tree and beeswax. "The elastic wax stretches, causing less of a pull to the skin, meaning a more comfortable hair removal experience," she says. "Because the elastic wax is applied at body temperature, it also allows the waxing professional to remove the hair faster."

All Waxes Are Not Created Equal

As detailed above, there are several wax options to consider and all are not created equal. Grupenmager is a proponent of elastic wax due to its list of benefits. While hard waxes are offered at many spas, she warns that "hard waxes break and crack, making the wax difficult to remove and also reducing hair removal efficiency." Another major difference between the two that she notes is that while elastic wax is applied at body temperature, hard wax is applied hot, which can sometimes lead to burns if not done properly.2

Timing Is Everything

Keeping the correct timing between waxes ensures the best results and can also help with planning for specific events. First, it's important that you maintain your routine waxing schedule year-round. Even if winter months have you worrying less about leg hair, if you take a hiatus while you're bundled up you'll be reversing your progress come spring and have to start all over again. Second, if you're scheduling waxing appointments to coincide with particular times you'll need to be hairless, Grupenmager has a recommended time frame. "If you're planning a winter or holiday getaway, it's best to come in for a waxing service as close to your trip as possible—ideally 2 to 3 days before leaving," she says, continuing that, "this ensures your skin will continue to look and feel great for your entire vacay as the grow-back period is typically between 4 to 8 weeks."

Establish a Waxing Schedule

Maintaining a consistent waxing schedule is key to achieving smooth, hair-free skin. The frequency of waxing sessions depends on the area being treated:

Face

Wax your face every two to three weeks. "Facial hair, such as brow, lip, and chin hair grows much quicker than hair on the rest of your body," says Melanie Coba, national brand ambassador for European Wax Center.

Underarms

Underarms can be waxed every two weeks. "You'll get the best results if you stay on a consistent schedule," Coba advises. Esthetician Nikki Babian recommends using hard wax for this sensitive area.

Bikini Area

For a bikini wax, wax every two weeks if you frequent the beach. For full bikini or Brazilian, wax every three to four weeks. "This allows the proper amount of time for regrowth," says Coba.

Legs

Legs and other body parts need waxing approximately every three to four weeks. It helps to align your leg waxing with Brazilian sessions to maintain a consistent schedule.

Don't Forget SPF

Your skin may be extra sensitive after a wax, so it's even more important that you make sure to lather up with sunscreen (something you should be practicing whether or not you're waxing). "Using sun protection is always recommended year-round, and it is especially important during the first 24 hours after waxing to avoid redness and irritation," says Grupenmager. Just because the sun isn't out, doesn't mean it's okay to skimp on the sunscreen. "People often forget about sunscreen in the winter, but your skin is just as vulnerable to a burn even when the temperatures drop."

Leave It to the Professionals

Though there are many at-home waxing kits on the market, Grupenmager says waxing is one treatment you must always leave to the professionals. "I believe that a wax should never be performed at home for many obvious reasons, including the risk of a severe burn," she says. "DIY wax is also not designed for sensitive skin," she continues, "and without a trained professional, you risk removing skin with the hair—in some cases even up to two layers of skin." Ouch!

FAQ

• Is waxing good for hair removal?

  Yes, waxing removes hair from the root, which often leads to finer and sparser regrowth over time. It also helps exfoliate the skin, giving it a smoother finish when compared to shaving.

• Should I shave before waxing?

  No, you should never shave before waxing. It's best to let the hair grow to at least one-eighth of an inch so the wax can properly adhere and remove the hair from the root.

• Is it better to shave or wax down there?

  Waxing is generally better than shaving for the pubic area because it offers smoother, longer-lasting results.

• Does waxing hurt?

  Waxing can be painful for some, especially first-timers. However, the pain typically lessens with regular treatments as the hair grows back finer and sparser.