What Is Laser Hair Removal?

Laser hair removal is a non-invasive procedure that uses pulses of concentrated light to remove excess or unwanted hair from the face or body.1 The treatment is typically performed by a qualified, trained medical provider such as a dermatologist (a specialist in conditions of the skin, hair, and nails) or a plastic surgeon.23

Most people experience excessive or unwanted hair growth at some point in life. People may opt for laser hair removal for comfort and convenience, cosmetic reasons, or medical reasons.42 Laser hair removal can treat several areas of the body and face, including the upper lip, legs, back, chest, and pubic area.1

Laser hair removal is generally safe, but it may have some side effects. It's important to discuss risks as well as the cost of treatment with your healthcare provider when considering laser hair removal.

How Does Laser Hair Removal Work?

"Laser" is an acronym for light amplification by stimulated emission of radiation. It is a handheld device that can control how energized atoms (the smallest particles of an element) release photons, or particles of light.5

During a laser hair removal treatment, the laser removes hair by vaporizing the hair follicles.6

The laser targets pigment, or melanin, in the hair by emitting light with wavelengths ranging from 300 to 1,200 nanometers (nm), which is the level of light melanin can absorb. The melanin captures the energy from the laser and distributes it to the surrounding follicular structures, which destroys the hair matrix (cells that help grow the hair follicle) and stem cells in the bulge of the hair follicle.4

There are a variety of lasers that can be used for hair removal. These include:4

• Ruby laser: Synthetic ruby crystals that deliver red light, which is effective for lighter skin types with dark hair.
• Diode laser: Suitable for darker skin, this type of laser penetrates more deeply and results in less damage to the skin.
• Intense pulse light (IPL) or broadband light (BBL): These are high-intensity pulses of multicolored light delivered by a flash lamp. These can be used on darker skin and also cover larger areas of the body.
• Alexandrite laser: This type of laser is good for removing lighter-colored hair and penetrates more deeply into the skin.
• Neodymium-doped yttrium aluminium garnet (Nd: YAG) laser: Suitable for all skin types, this laser provides better penetration into the skin and less skin damage.

Benefits of Laser Hair Removal

There are many benefits to laser hair removal, including:75

• Long-lasting hair removal
• Quick and safe removal of hair
• Ability to treat larger areas of the body
• Removal of hair from almost any part of the body
• Few side effects and complications

Laser hair removal may help address certain medical conditions. For example, acne keloidalis nuchae is inflammation of hair follicles on the scalp or neck that can lead to thick, raised scars called keloids. In certain cases, laser hair removal has been shown to help reduce the symptoms by destroying the hair follicles.8

For the same reasons, laser hair removal may help treat pseudofolliculitis barbae, another inflammatory disorder of the hair follicles that can cause hairs to become ingrown in areas of shaving, such as the armpits or face.9

Laser hair removal is most effective when it's used on individuals with lighter skin and dark hair.7 As technological advancements continue in laser hair removal, researchers are hoping to develop laser hair technology that provides permanent and complete hair removal for all skin and hair types.5

Hormonal status also plays a role in how well and how long hair removal results may last. People with hormonal conditions may want to wait for laser hair treatment until they achieve hormone balance. This might include conditions like hirsutism (when higher levels of androgens, or male sex hormones, lead to excess hair around the mouth and chin area), hypothyroidism (underactive thyroid), or hyperthyroidism (overactive thyroid).5

During the initial pre-appointment consultation, a medical provider can discuss whether laser hair removal will be an appropriate and effective hair removal option for you.

Risks and Side Effects of Laser Hair Removal

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Some of the side effects of laser hair removal include slight redness of the skin, mild swelling around hair follicles, temporary changes in skin pigmentation (especially in people with darker skin), and temporary skin irritations such as blistering, scarring, or changes in skin texture.10

The procedure has been shown to be ineffective for thin, fine hairs (or peach fuzz), and hairs that are white, grey, or red. There are also more side effects reported in people with darker skin types.7

In some cases, more serious side effects can include burning, scarring, folliculitis (infected or inflamed hair follicles), and permanent changes to skin color.67

More serious side effects tend to occur when the technician performing the procedure does not have enough experience in safe and effective laser hair removal practices. To reduce your risk of skin damage, it's important to choose a medical professional who is highly educated in using lasers to perform the treatment.611

What to Expect At a Laser Hair Removal Appointment

To ensure the safest and most effective laser hair removal experience, it's important to prepare for your appointment and follow after-care instructions.

How to Prepare

Before getting a laser hair removal treatment, you will first meet with a medical provider or dermatologist for a consultation. The provider will evaluate your skin and hair type in order to choose the right laser for your skin and hair color.12

During your consultation, the provider will ask about your medical history and which areas you want treated. They may also take photographs of the areas you want treated and evaluate whether you have any pre-existing health or hormonal conditions or other risk factors. Then, they will determine the best course of treatment and provide you with a cost for treatment.412

In advance of your procedure, avoid plucking or waxing for six weeks. If you are having hair removed from an area you frequently shave, leave a bit of stubble before the procedure, which will provide enough target for the laser without absorbing too much energy in the hair shaft.4

You should wear sunscreen daily for four to six weeks before your procedure, especially on the exposed areas being treated.4 It's also recommended to avoid sunless tanners as well as tanning in the sun or in tanning beds.13

During the Procedure

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Most people will need approximately six to eight sessions, spaced six to eight weeks apart, to see long-lasting results. Some people may need maintenance treatments once every six to 12 months to treat small, fine hairs that return.4

Here's how a treatment typically works:46

1) The hair removal technician will cleanse the area of skin that will be treated to remove any dirt or excess oils.

2) Some people with sensitive skin may receive a numbing gel about 30 minutes to one hour in advance of treatment to minimize any potential discomfort. Your provider may also use a device to blow cold air onto the treatment areas before application to reduce discomfort.

3) Both the medical provider and the person receiving treatment will receive eye protection to wear during the course of treatment. This is an essential safety step to protect your eyes from exposure to the light from the laser, which could otherwise damage your eyes.

4) The treatment begins. Your medical provider will pull the area of skin taut and hold the laser to the skin at a perpendicular angle. They will press the laser down gently but firmly on the skin to ensure the hair follicles are close to the laser's surface.

5) Once the laser is in position, the medical provider will emit laser pulses to vaporize the hair follicles. This can produce small plumes of smoke with a sulfur-like smell. You may experience some temporary discomfort during treatment. Laser pulses typically feel like a rubber band being snapped against the skin or like warm pinpricks.

Aftercare and Recovery

After treatment, your provider will share tips to help you reduce any pain or discomfort and promote healing of the skin. Some ways to care for your skin after treatment include:4

• Protecting your skin from the sun and wearing sunscreen or sun-protective clothing or gear.
• Using ice packs or cool compresses after treatment to minimize any pain, swelling, or discomfort.
  
• Applying topical steroid creams to minimize redness and swelling, if necessary.
• Applying topical antibiotics, if injury to the skin occurs.

The amount of time hair removal lasts until the next session varies, but the average hair clearance rate with current hair removal technology is 20%-75% after one to six months of follow-up treatments.5

When there is a marked decrease in the number of thick, coarse hairs in the area of treatment for a period longer than the complete hair growth cycle, the results are considered permanent. People with thick, dark hair, light skin, and normal hormonal status are more likely to see permanent results.5

Cost and Considerations

The cost of laser hair removal depends on several factors, including the size of the area being treated, the number of sessions you need, whether prescriptions are needed for aftercare, and whether it's priced as part of a package or per session.14

According to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons, the average price for laser hair removal is $582, but individual session costs can be higher or lower depending if the treatment is on a smaller area or a larger area.14

Some laser hair removal providers may offer financing or installment payment options. Generally, laser hair removal is not covered by insurance because it is considered a cosmetic treatment. However, there are some instances where the procedure may be considered medically necessary and be covered by insurance.3

To avoid side effects and potential risks of the treatment, it's important to find a qualified medical professional, such as a board-certified dermatologist or plastic surgeon, to perform the procedure.

At-Home Laser Hair Removal Devices

In addition to in-office hair removal treatments, there are many laser hair removal devices you can use at home. But are these devices as effective and safe as in-office options performed by a medical professional?

If you choose to use an at-home laser hair removal device, there are some precautions to keep in mind. First, check that your home-based laser device is cleared by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). Second, research strongly recommends you wear protective eyewear when using home-based laser devices, even if the manufacturer doesn't provide eye safety gear.2

In a small study that compared a professional laser (Diode) with an at-home laser device, researchers found that both in-office and at-home laser hair removal treatments showed positive reductions in hair count. However, there was a greater reduction in overall hair counts in people treated with the Diode laser compared to the at-home laser device.2

The same study also found that both types of lasers were not completely harmless. The researchers recommended lasers should not be used at home without the initial support or supervision of a medical professional.2

If you choose to use an FDA-cleared laser hair removal device at home, speak to your medical provider or dermatologist before using it yourself.

A Quick Review

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Some side effects of laser hair removal include mild redness and swelling and more rarely, burning or scarring of the skin. It's important to choose a board-certified medical professional skilled in laser use to perform the treatment to reduce your risk of skin damage or injury.