It’s been more than a decade since I first tried laser hair removal, but one detail stands out sharp in my mind—painfully sharp: the biting freeze of ice packs, placed on my armpits for five minutes of numbing. I remember lying face-up on the small treatment room’s bed, pressing my eyes closed and tensing my legs to lock out my urge to squirm, all before the laser even fired its first blast.
Once my underarms yielded to the freezing, it was time for the hair removal itself, where a clunky machine zapped the area with bursts of intense heat, a silent pause between each pulse broken only by my heart pounding in my ears. After about 20 minutes, it was time for the ice packs again, this time slightly more welcome on my hot skin.
The experience wasn’t pleasant, but I was a university student with an almost-entirely disposable income and a keen desire to try everything I read about in the magazines I hoarded. After eight sessions endured and $800 spent, my armpit hair had been reduced by about half of what it was before—not to the point that I ditched my razor, but enough that I definitely get less irritation when I shave. Still, I had higher hopes.
It was with lowered expectations that I walked into Waxon this winter. The wax bar recently expanded its service offering to also include laser hair removal, with the goal of making it as quick and low-pain as their signature waxing. “Laser hair removal has been around for 60 years, and the technology is just improving year after year,” says Amy Finnegan Burns, Waxon’s director of operations. For a year and a half before launching the service, she tested the Cynosure Vectus, a diode laser device that’s relatively new on the market and is known to be safe on darker skin tones, a gap that older lasers couldn’t address.
She quickly found that the machine met all of her other requirements, too: effectiveness (it emits a longer wavelength of light, with the promise of more effectively reaching the hair follicle), speed (its faster pulses allow for shorter appointments) and low discomfort (it has a cooling tip, and the faster pulses are said to also cut back on pain).
The advances are enough to persuade me to give laser a second chance—this time, on my bikini line—and so I find myself lying bare from the belly button down, my hips splayed wide like a lifeless frog’s. My pulse quickens when the laserologist, as Waxon calls their technicians, brings what looks like a beige remote control toward my crotch, but, to my relief, it’s not the laser yet. It’s a Bluetooth-enabled tool that reads my skin type and hair colour to automatically adjust the machine’s settings for me. After a quick scan and a layer of gel, it’s go time.
A high-pitched beep accompanies the laser’s first hit, and I realize I’m—shockingly—fine. A few more beeps and still, not even a flinch. The laserologist asks me how I’m doing, and I respond with a maniacal “GREAT!” As she moves the device along my pelvis, every now and then, one of the beeps feels like a tiny prick, but in those cases, the device’s cooling tip is enough to quell any sting.
After 30 or so beeps and less than five minutes, I’m pulling on my pants and getting instructions to avoid hot water for the night, and to start exfoliating in a few days. About 10 days later, I see why: I begin to shed the hairs that were beginning to grow out post-laser.
For each of my four treatments, all spaced six weeks apart, I repeat the process—continually relieved by the low pain, and then amazed by the reduction in hair regrowth each time. At this point, my bikini line is mostly bald, with a few persistent patches that I shave away. I’ll book a couple more sessions to get things as smooth as possible, and then maybe tackle my armpits again. After this, I’m all for second chances—just not if you’re an ice pack.
Have more questions about laser hair removal? Read on:
What is laser hair removal and how does it work?
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Is laser hair removal permanent?
Laser hair removal
Does laser hair removal hurt?
The sensation from laser hair removal is often likened to the snap of a small rubber band against skin, or a pinprick of heat. The pain or discomfort tends to be minimal, but it can vary based on the area being treated and your own pain tolerance. Newer devices that get the job done faster help: “Your pain tolerance gets lower and lower the longer you’re enduring that service,” says Amy Finnegan Burns, director of operations at Waxon. If you’re still worried, some technicians offer a numbing cream first, and many laser devices have a cooling tip to help soothe the area.
How many laser hair removal sessions will I need?
The old standard for laser hair removal was eight to 10 sessions, but improved technology has reduced the number of sessions required, says Finnegan Burns. “We don’t want to see a client come back any more than six times.” The reason multiple treatments are needed is because your hair growth cycle includes three stages, which happen at different times for individual hairs. “Our hair is not always all at the same stage needed for destruction, therefore only a percentage of follicles will be affected at each visit,” explains DuPéré. You’ll need to wait four to eight weeks, depending on which area you’re treating, between sessions to align timing with hair growth cycles.
How much does laser hair removal cost?
The cost for laser hair removal varies based on the size of the treatment area, with the price increasing in tandem with the size of the area. While prices vary at each medi-spa/clinic, these are typical costs for laser hair removal:
- Upper lip or chin: $75 per session
- Underarms: approximately $100 per session
- Bikini: approximately $125 per session
- Full legs: approximately $350 per session
Many medi-spas and clinics offer discounted prices when you buy a package of treatments.
What should I do prior to my laser hair removal appointment?
It’s important to avoid waxing for four weeks prior to laser hair removal, because the laser works by targeting the melanin in your hairs’ follicles, so you’ll want them intact. Instead, you’ll need to stick to shaving leading up to and in between your appointments. Most medi-spas and clinics ask that clients come in for their appointments with a fresh shave, though some shave the area as part of the process. The other no-go before your appointment: tanning. Steer clear of the sun and self-tanners before your treatment for best results.
What should I do after my laser hair removal appointment?
For the day or two following your appointment, your skin may feel like it has a mild sunburn. Be gentle during this time: no hot water, rough exfoliation or sun exposure. After a few days, you’ll notice what appears to be new hair growth, but those hairs will start to loosen and fall out over the next few weeks. Exfoliate to help the process but do not pluck or pull them out (you can shave, though).
Does laser hair removal work on light hair?
Because the laser targets the pigment in the hair, blonde is the hardest to treat—but not impossible. “It’s actually very rare that a blonde-haired person doesn’t have any brown in their hair,” says Finnegan Burns. “As long as there is some ounce of colour in their hair, we can treat it.” For really light blonde, white, or grey hair, it’s best to have a technician assess it in person.
Can people with dark skin get laser hair removal?
Traditionally, lasers only worked on people with light skin and dark hair, because the contrast made it easy for the laser to target hair pigment. Fortunately, newer laser hair removal machines can now reach different wavelengths that allow for treatment on a wider range of skin tones. Ask your local medi-spa or clinic if its machine has the capability to treat your skin tone.
Is getting laser hair removal safe?
“Yes, it is a safe treatment when performed by an experienced laser technician,” says DuPéré, who always recommends having a consultation appointment prior to booking your first treatment. Do your research and make sure you feel comfortable with both the technician and the process. During the treatment itself, you’ll be provided a pair of goggles to protect your eyes. If you’re pregnant or breastfeeding, you should wait to have laser hair removal done.
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Soothe your post-laser skin with calming aloe vera gel. The non-greasy, lightweight formula provides relief on contact while replenishing moisture.
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The eco-friendly razor
Prepping for laser means shaving the area you’re targeting before treatments. Instead of opting for a plastic razor that’ll end up in a landfill, go the sustainable route with a metal safety razor. Not only will it last a lifetime, but it will also look way cuter in your bathroom.
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