Considering they’ve seen some of your most intimate areas under bright lights, it’s probably okay to assume your waxing specialist has got a fair amount of your trust. When they’re ripping a strip of cool, hardened wax from your eyebrow, upper lip, bikini, or armpit with your body hair attached to it, they’re in control. But what happens after the wax, how you treat your skin and keep the now-hairless area smooth and healthy, is in your hands.
In the process of tearing hair from the follicle, waxing also snatches at the topmost layer of the skin leaving pores to open up, says Uchenna R. Okereke, MD, a Boston-based dermatologist. If these pores get infected with bacteria, pimples and other bumps are more likely to make an appearance. So, it’s vital you keep the recently waxed area clean and aerated, says Gina Petak, the learning program manager at European Wax Center. “Avoid working out right after a wax, swimming, hot tubs, and keep away from products containing pore-clogging ingredients such as mineral oil or heavy creams and lotions,” she adds. Even touching an unwashed hand to waxed brows can lead to irritation.
The signs of irritation or infection, small red bumps, might appear immediately after waxing, says Hope Mitchell, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Ohio. Or, she says, they can also appear up to a week after the wax as a result of dermatitis, an allergic reaction or irritation usually caused by chemicals, folliculitis, which occurs when hair follicles have been damaged and infected, and ingrown hairs, when the hair works its way back into the follicle causing a painful pimple-looking bump—a common occurrence for those with thick and curly hair.
All this said, it isn’t impossible to walk away from a wax with non-irritated and smooth skin like you intended. It just takes a bit of aftercare which these five experts have outlined for you below.
How to treat your skin pre-wax:
While a lot of the TLC that’ll keep your skin looking and feeling good after a wax has to do with what you do after the wax, there are a few things you can do beforehand to lessen your chances of irritation.
Break up with retinoids...for a bit. If you use one, Dr. Okereke recommends ditching your retinoid five-to-seven days before your wax. Since retinoids exfoliate the skin, waxing while using retinoids will pull at your healthy skin, rather than just the top layer of dead skin cells, and cause irritation.
Exfoliate. “Additionally, it’s important to exfoliate before waxing with a treatment that can cleanse and exfoliate to prevent bumps and reduce flaking of skin,” says Dr. Okereke. “I recommend products with alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) such as glycolic acid, lactic acid or both, as they help smooth the skin as much as possible, thereby reducing the risk of ingrown hairs and post-waxing irritation.”
CeraVe Acne Foaming Cream Cleanser
Now 20% Off
$15 at Ulta Beauty
Wash well. Since bacteria is a big threat to protecting just-waxed skin, being clean is a biggie. So, before the wax is applied, wash away any makeup or bacterial buildup. “Use a gentle cleanser containing benzoyl peroxide to remove oils or sweat,” recommends Cula N. Dautriche, MD, PhD, a dermatology resident in Brooklyn. She recommends Cerave’s acne cleanser. And, to reduce the likelihood of inflammation, you can even rub an ice cube over the area beforehand. And if you’re prone to breakouts in a certain part of your body, Dr. Dautriche, says to avoid waxing it altogether.
Curb the pain with a pill. And when you’re getting large and sensitive areas waxed such as your bikini, Dr. Mitchell recommends taking a painkiller beforehand. “Naturally, the painkillers will take some of the edge off of the treatment, plus it’ll help you relax which reduces the pain even more,” she explains. “Being tense during a wax not only stresses you mentally but your pores actually grip tighter onto hair follicles. Taking Ibuprofen before the treatment can lessen any mild swelling that might come about from the waxing.”
Dress for the occasion. Your clothing choices can even make a difference, says Sarah Bourgoin, an esthetician at Elina Organics Spa in Kalamazoo. “Depending on the area being waxed, it's always a good idea to wear loose fitting clothing as that will reduce friction on the area and create less irritation. Cotton underwear is a great choice if you’re getting any bikini or Brazilian waxing as it will allow the area to have more contact with air and less perspiration.”
Let yourself get hairy. And lastly, Petak says to make sure your hair is long enough for the wax in the first place. This way, less of your skin will get torn off and abrased in the process. The ideal length is at least a quarter of an inch long—about the size of an ice cream sprinkle. “So, it’s a good idea to stop shaving at least five days prior to your waxing reservation,” she says. And don’t worry, there’s no such thing as hair that’s too long.
Show your skin some love after a wax.
Avoid the bath for a bit. And you can show that love by not showering immediately. “Your esthetician will clean the area they waxed with a post-depilatory lotion, and this will eliminate wax residue, soothe the skin, and keep the area clean for a while,” says Dr. Mitchell.
When you do shower (no sooner than two hours later), opt for lukewarm water and a gentle, non-scented cleanser. This temp, says Dr. Mitchell, will allow your body to stabilize and your skin to work through the sensitivity it’s experiencing. And while exfoliating is a big help before a wax, don’t do it immediately afterward and instead hold off for two-to-three days, says Bourgoin. Rubbing against those open pores is a one-way ticket to even more sensitivity. And when you dry off, do so with light pats rather a harsh rub from your towel, says Dr. Mitchell.
And remember, keep away from pools, beaches, and saunas until your pores have had enough time to close up again. This shower should be the only water you come into contact with that day (other than the kind you drink).
First Aid Beauty KP Bump Eraser Body Scrub
at Women's Health Shop
In Stock
Rub the good stuff in. Once you’re dry, moisturize the skin with gentle topical treatments. Some promise to keep ingrown hairs away such as Dr. Okereke’s recommendations, European Wax Center’s Smooth Me Ingrown Hair Wipes, which has AHAs and First Aid Beauty's KP Bump Eraser Body Scrub, which has both glycolic and lactic acids.
"I recommend clients use Elina Organics Oil Control Formula daily on the treated area, to sanitize and calm the skin," says Bourgoin. And to keep the area moisturized, she also recommends the brand's healing cream.
Exfoliate a few days later. Petak says once your pores have closed a few days after your wax and it’s safe to exfoliate again, opt for products that are free of mineral oils since those can clog pores and lead to breakouts. “Look for a product that is non-comedogenic and exfoliates the skin gently while still being effective. Products that contain Aloe, Chamomile, Sea Kelp, and Vitamin E are great ingredients to soothe and calm skin.” You might even try a hair growth minimizer such as narcissus tazetta bulb extract. “This ingredient helps thin and soften hair overtime so your hair will grow back thinner and make each wax less and less painful,” says Petak.
Call the experts. If after trying all these moves, your skin is still inflamed, there’s no harm in holding a cold compress to the area. But, if you feel a burning sensation, it might be time to call a doctor, says Dr. Okereke since a deeper layer of your skin might have been ripped.
Aryelle Siclait
Editor
Aryelle Siclait is the editor at Women's Health where she writes and edits articles about relationships, sexual health, pop culture, and fashion for verticals across WomensHealthMag.com and the print magazine. She's a Boston College graduate and lives in New York.
