Skin
August
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We quizzed skin experts on the secrets to complexion perfection
Stars: they’re just like us—they have pore problems, too. “The majority of my celebrity clients who sought me out originally had oily, eruption-prone skin, open pores, sometimes borderline acne,” declares Ole Henriksen, Danish-born L.A.-based facialist to Ellen Degeneres, Laura Dern and Halle Berry. “Our job has been to balance the skin.” He’s treated skin of all types and ages—his oldest client being Kirk Douglas, who turned 100 last year. “He still comes in and has amazing skin texture!” So there’s hope for us all. He advocates taking great care of your pores and not stripping them dry, as does Leala McInerney, a skin therapist who trains other skin therapists for Dermalogica Canada. “Our skin is a super-smart organ; every response is regulated by another,” she explains. “For skin cells to naturally slough off, we need good hydration levels to activate skin-cell-releasing enzymes. If we over-strip our skin, we aren’t creating the right environment for these enzymes to work effectively. This in turn can lead to blackheads, bumpiness and possibly enlarged pores.” Read on for the most effective, gentle ways to keep your pores in tip-top shape at every age.
IN YOUR 20s
Pore problems: Oiliness + blackheads
We all know teen hormonal fluctuations can lead skin to produce excess oil, but it doesn’t stop there. “These fluctuations can persist into your early 20s,” says McInerney. However, it’s not all bad news. “Oily skin has natural protection against the elements because oil is a fat that cushions and comforts the skin,” says Henriksen. “You’re going to age slower and have less sensitivity. Yet you want to make sure it doesn’t get out of control around the T-zone, so you don’t get blackheads and sebum build-up that will give you whiteheads or breakouts.”
Pore fix: Double cleanse + hydrate
Deep cleansing is one of the best ways to prevent pore problems. “By double cleansing, you’ll help to prevent those blackheads and breakouts that could also lead to large pores overtime,” says McInerney, who advises starting with a cleansing oil or balm to remove dirt, excess oil, makeup, dead skin cells and debris. “This allows your second cleanser to get into the skin and truly deep clean it.” Don’t stop there, though—oily skin needs hydration, too. “There’s often a misunderstanding that, ‘My skin is oily so moisturizer is going to clog my pores,’” says Henriksen. “Actually, you need a hydrator that has active ingredients, that will neutralize the excess oil flow, kill bacteria and reduce the appearance of open pores so you are treating as well as hydrating lightly.”
Dermalogica PreCleanse Balm, $62, dermalogica.ca (available in September). Olay Age Defying Advanced Hydrating Gel Moisturizer, $18, drugstores
IN YOUR 30s
Pore problem: Inflammation + 30s breakouts
In this decade, mortgages, marriages, promotions and pregnancies all raise the life stakes. “Our stress levels can drastically rise, which releases hormones that can cause excess breakout activity,” says McInerney, adding that breakouts in your 30s are likely to be more stubborn than the blackheads of your carefree 20s. “Due to inflammatory substances being released at the same time, these breakouts are often bigger, more inflamed and last longer.”
Pore x: Destress + treat
Addressing stress is a complicated business, so take a realistic approach. “You have to ask yourself how you can make the changes and live by them,” says Henriksen, cautioning against overdoing it with sugary foods and alcohol. “That doesn’t mean you can’t have a glass of wine; just don’t have three back to back.” He points out that skincare rituals can provide a moment for relaxation. “When you treat your skin, take a deep breath, smile.” He’s also a fan of the Nordic hot-cold sauna circuit to relax, detox and boost circulation, and to tighten and soothe the pores.
As for those inflamed breakouts, “the best solution is to use a spot treatment that’s anti-inflammatory as well as antibacterial,” says McInerney, cautioning against overdoing it on the anti-acne products. “We think it’s a great idea to purify, purify, purify! While this can be the right option for an oily skin type, this can often lead to a bigger buildup of skin cells in the pore, which results in clogging or stretching of the pore. Just remember: Hydration is your skin’s best friend.”
Ole Henriksen Pore-Balance Facial Sauna Scrub, $34, sephora.ca. Lierac Sébologie Imperfections Correction Localized Concentrate, $27, lierac.ca (available in September)
IN YOUR 40s
Pore problem: Visible pores + dullness
Even though most of us will have less oiliness to contend with by our 40s, that doesn’t mean our pores are off the hook. “If the skin is very dry, it seems to highlight little imperfections like visible pores,” says Henriksen. “If you’re not exfoliating, the dead skin sits there and makes it look dull. And your skin isn’t performing osmosis by taking in oxygen and eliminating toxins, so the pores will tend to be more visible.”
As well, the damage done in earlier decades may be showing up in our pores at this time. “When we have blackheads and breakouts in our earlier years, this continuous clogging can put pressure on the opening of the pore,” explains McInerney. “With years of this repeated action, we may see enlarged pores develop.”
Pore fix: Gently exfoliate + repair
Rule number one: “Never, ever pick at blackheads,” warns McInerney, as this can expand the opening of the pore. If you haven’t already started a twice-weekly exfoliation habit, the time is nigh. “The best option for treating stretched pores is prevention, and maintaining good exfoliation habits at an early age can help prevent clogging,” she says.
Opt for a gentle enzyme or alpha-hydroxy-acid exfoliant, or a physical scrub-like one, using very light pressure. “People scrub really hard with a physical exfoliant,” adds Henriksen. “You should just be guiding it across your skin and letting the product do the job for you.” After exfoliating, he recommends helping the skin repair with a brightening antioxidant vitamin C serum.
The Body Shop Drops of Youth Liquid Peel, $25, thebodyshop.ca. Vivier Platiné GrenzCine Polyamine-DAB and Vitamin C Serum, $350, viverpharma.com
IN YOUR 50s
Pore problem: Large pores + 50s+ facial hair growth
Loss of moisture and hormonal changes can have profound and unexpected effects on your pores. “A lot of women start to complain about open pores because the skin gets drier as you get older if it’s not attended to properly,” says Henriksen. “But once you get rid of that dead skin, you’re more receptive to taking in the moisture.” Another factor to consider: As we enter menopause, our estrogen levels start to drop, and a lot of women start hormone replacement therapy. “This surge of estrogen can stimulate excess hair growth within the pores,” says McInerney. “You may notice thicker, coarser hairs growing on your chin or upper lip or an overall increase in peach fuzz.”
Pore fix: Exfoliate + nourish
Regular exfoliation is still your best bet, but put away the scrubs in favour of peels. “Chemical exfoliants are even more beneficial as you get older, for giving you smoother, younger-looking skin and for minimizing wrinkles as well,” explains Henriksen. He advises following it with a face oil—he particularly likes rosehip-seed oil—“so you get that beautiful blend of nourishing together with the exfoliation.” As for hormonal hair growth, McInerney says that “while there may not be much you can do to control it, there are a lot of great options for its removal, like waxing, intense pulsed light treatments or laser hair removal.”
Kate Somerville ExfoliKate Glow Moisturizer, $78, sephora.ca. Sisley Black Rose Precious Face Oil, $295, holtrenfrew.com
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