I am no stranger when it comes to hair removal techniques. In my quest for smooth skin, I’ve tried shaving, waxing, sugaring, threading, and epilation—yet (in the words of U2), “I still haven’t found what I’m looking for.” So what am I searching for, exactly? A hair removal technique that is easy, long-lasting, and, most importantly, painless. So when SmoothSkin (a light-based hair removal device) found its way onto my desk, I jumped at the chance to try it out. But before testing it on my legs (and arms), I spoke with board-certified dermatologist Dr. Bertha Baum to learn more about IPL, how it’s different from laser hair removal, and if it works on all skin types. Here’s what you need to know.
What Is IPL Hair Removal?
IPL—which stands for “intense pulsed light”—is one of the most advanced and high-tech hair removal methods on the market. Although not actual laser technology, it does use a broad spectrum of light with multiple wavelengths. These wavelengths are scattered across the skin to help with permanent hair reduction by directing light at the melanin (the pigment on the hair follicle), damaging the root, and helping to break the cycle of regrowth. Because IPL needs to target the melanin of the hair follicles, it’s important that you shave instead of wax (or epilate) before using the device, as this will ensure there are hair follicle roots for the wavelengths to detect.
That said, don’t expect to see immediate results.
IPL typically requires about eight treatments to see complete hair removal in the treated area. Although, results may vary for each person. As Dr. Baum explains, “Hair reduction depends on the user’s skin color, hair color, and thickness of hair as well as the intensity and speed of the treatment.”
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IPL vs. Laser Hair Removal
It’s easy to confuse IPL with laser hair removal because both techniques use light-based technology. However, laser treatments use (you guessed it) lasers and emit a singular light source to target a more concentrated area, making them more powerful. Because of this, laser treatments need to be conducted in-office by an experienced professional to ensure they’re performed safely. IPL’s light energy (which is not a laser but “intense pulsed light”), on the other hand, is scattered and targets a larger area. Because the energy is more distributed, it is gentler on the skin, making it ideal for sensitive skin types. You can also use IPL devices at home, making them more accessible and convenient.
As for the pain factor, both treatments produce a snapping or pinching sensation that feels hot in the moment but immediately subsides. However, while both treatments are uncomfortable at best, the pain factor really depends on your tolerance level. Furthermore, both treatments can lead to skin burning if done improperly, especially if you have darker-toned skin or are rocking a fresh tan. This is because both laser and IPL target the skin’s melanin, and the more there is, the more energy your skin absorbs.
Is IPL Permanent?
For the most part, yes. However, Dr. Baum notes that some IPL devices have changed their marketing from claiming permanent hair removal to permanent hair reduction. “Sometimes the hair does not completely go away [it’s reduced], and for some users, you have to take into account hormonal changes such as pregnancy, which can trigger new hair growth.”
Simply put, IPL puts hair follicles into a state of dormancy for a long period of time. The same goes for laser hair removal—albeit the state of dormancy lasts much longer (up to two years).
Is IPL Safe for All Skin Types?
Unfortunately, most IPL devices are not safe or effective to use on melanin-rich skin. Darker skin tones (in the Fitzpatrick scale range of five and six) have more melanin, which absorbs light energy and can lead to heat pain, blisters, or burns. Before using any IPL device, Dr. Baum recommends testing a small patch of skin to make sure your skin type will work with the treatment. “It’s also important to be aware of certain conditions which could affect hair removal such as specific medications and photosensitive conditions, as well as pregnancy and breastfeeding,” Dr. Baum adds. Using products containing retinol, retinoid, alpha and beta-hydroxy acids, and vitamin C is also not recommended at least two weeks before starting treatment, as these ingredients help stimulate cell turnover, making skin more susceptible to light energy.
Another critical thing to note is that you cannot use IPL on tattoos. The light waves can’t distinguish between the color of your body hair and the pigment in tattoo ink, which could cause the device to emit a more powerful light, leading to burning. Thankfully, with the SmoothSkin device, there’s no need to worry as the skin-sensor won’t allow the light to fire if it senses a darker tone—skin or otherwise.
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About SmoothSkin
SmoothSkin is a hand-held, corded IPL device that promises to deliver results in 12 weeks. It comes in two models: the Bare+ (emitting 100 light flashes per minute) and the Pure (emitting 130 light flashes a minute) which is also FDA cleared to use on the face (the Bare+ is not). What’s unique about SmoothSkin is that it comes with unlimited light flashes. A majority of IPL devices on the market have a minimum of 100,000 light flashes, and once they run out, you’ll need to purchase a replacement lamp. However, with SmoothSkin, you can continue to use the tool as many times as you’d like.
This tool also keeps the application process simple with just three settings—gentle mode (to reduce the power emitted), speed mode (best for treating larger areas), and power mode (the default setting). The gentle mode is ideal for those who want less intensity and are a bit more sensitive to pain and discomfort. It’s also great for use in more delicate areas like the bikini line or underarms. By keeping the activation button pressed down, the speed mode then enables you to glide the tool continuously across your skin, allowing you to treat a larger area (like your legs) in less time. Finally, if you are not sensitive to pain and just want to focus on one section at a time, it’s recommended that you stick with the more intense power mode.
As previously mentioned, SmoothSkin also has an innovative built-in skin sensor that adjusts the light intensity based on your skin tone. The sensor measures this on a scale of one through 10, with one being the lightest and emitting the highest strength of pulsed light. However, if your skin is too dark, a red light will appear, preventing the device from operating. The SmoothSkin also comes with one treatment head and is recommended to use all over your body, with the exception of your face.
My SmoothSkin Review
Per the instructions, I made sure to prep my skin by shaving all of the areas I wanted to treat with the SmookSkin Pure (in this case, my arms and legs). As noted, this step not only reveals the hair follicle roots, which is what the device targets during the treatment, but also helps clear the skin surface of any “debris” to ensure nothing gets in the way of the sensor. After plugging in the device, I placed the head attachment flush against my skin to activate the sensors. Lo and behold, only one light lit up on my legs, while my arms produced a red light, meaning that my skin was too dark for the treatment. On the Fitzpatrick scale range, my skin is a five (brown, rarely burns, tans dark easily). However, since I hardly wear shorts or skirts (I'm very insecure about my stubbly legs), they come in at a four (light brown, burns minimally, tans easily). I was pretty bummed that I couldn't treat my arms but grateful that it would at least work on my legs. Although my skin clocked in at one (which prompts minimum power), I decided to stick with the gentle mode. Why go full force when there is a more forgiving option? (Also, waxing and epilation have made me cry, and I was sure this was going to hurt more.)
Holding down the device tight against my skin, I pressed the activation button and immediately flinched. While the packaging states that you will feel a “warm sensation,” I beg to differ. The pain was noticeable, like a very tight rubber band flanked with tiny spikes snapping against my legs. I had to take a moment to decide if I wanted to continue and, after taking two ibuprofens, I did. I was able to complete one leg (leaving the other untreated so I could compare) in under ten minutes. I didn’t experience any redness or pain afterward—and the sharp rubber band sensation didn’t linger—and I can say, with confidence, that there were no tears.
Usually, when I shave my legs, I see stubble within six hours. So to keep my legs smooth, I definitely need to shave every day or every other day at a minimum. However, a week after using SmoothSkin Pure, my hair growth was less noticeable to the point that I could go seven days without shaving. That’s a huge win for me and my fuzzy stems.
The Final Verdict
Using an IPL device is undoubtedly less painful for at-home hair removal than epilating and cleaner than sugaring and waxing. Was there pain? Yes, but not so much that it would stop me from using the tool again. That said, the fact that I couldn’t use it on the rest of my body or that those with medium to dark skin can’t use the device at all is unfortunate. Also, because it only has one attachment head, it is more difficult to use it on curvier places, like ankles and knees. A smaller attachment head would make this process much easier.
All in all, I am pretty pleased with the results. I love that it is not pulling hair from the root and that it has significantly reduced hair regrowth in those areas. The device is also fairly intuitive to use and does not have to be charged, nor does anything need to be replaced after a few uses (such as lamps or batteries). I plan on using SmoothSkin Pure for the recommended 12 weeks, and I’m looking forward to leaving my every-other-day shaving routine in the past.
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Gabriela Garcia
Former Senior Beauty Editor
Our former senior beauty editor, Gabriela Garcia is an expert everyone needs to rely on for all the latest beauty and skincare trends and updates. Her work is cultivated by years of research, writing, and reporting on the latest trends and developments. She has also honed her skills in lifestyle, wellness, style, culture, films, and food.
See more BY Gabriela Garcia
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