If you’re a somewhat regular waxer or shaver, laser hair removal is kind of the dream. It’s the promise of…not having to do that. Of being able to knock off one personal maintenance task from the eternal to-do list, of being ready to jump into a swimsuit or tank top without a moment’s notice with nary a thought for the fuzz emanating from your underarms or bikini line (obviously, if you’re pro-fuzz, you already live this particular dream).
But laser hair removal is also a commitment: financial, time-wise, to the idea of permanence (is a permanent Brazilian going to delight you at 75?!). Recently, I took the laser hair removal plunge after about a million years of mulling it over. I took copious notes throughout the whole process, so as to be able to share the answers to the millions of questions I had about it with you.
I started with the classic bikini line, which I’d had waxed regularly (well, in the summer) for 20-odd years. It seemed like a small area but a key one, that would allow for spontaneous swims and would save me time and money in the long run.
Here’s (almost) everything I wondered about and asked the pros at Toronto’s Waxon: Laser and Waxbar, which has 14 locations in Ontario and one in Halifax, and what I learned about laser hair removal in the process.
What is laser hair removal?
The word laser is actually an acronym and the letters stand for: light amplification by stimulated emission of radiation. Lasers are used for all sorts of purposes, but in this case the laser energy targets follicles to damage them and impair their ability to grow hair.
Is laser hair removal permanent?
This one was a bit of a surprise: It is not! Most of the hair treated in a series of six to eight laser hair removal sessions won’t grow back, or will grow back much finer, but depending on your hair’s pigment and texture, it’s likely there will be a little hair remaining. “A lot of advertisements say it’s permanent hair removal and that word terrifies me. We’re trained not to use that word—it’s actually a significant reduction in hair,” says Amy Finnegan Burns, Waxon’s director of operations. “I wish people realized that it’s not necessarily 100 per cent gone in every part of the area, that you won’t see one hair again. There may be times that you’ll have to go back and get a touch up.” It’s different for everyone, but Burns says that while she’s never had to touch up her underarm area, she has occasionally shaved small areas of her bikini line post-Brazilian laser and plans to do another two or three laser sessions to lessen that growth even further.
Is laser hair removal safe for all skin tones?
It hasn’t always been, the main risk being burns for darker skin tones since lasers target pigment, of which darker skin contains more. But the newer generation of laser hair removal devices, like Waxon’s Vectus by Cynosure diode laser machines, are safer for darker skin tones, because of advancements like longer wavelength and pulse widths, a cooling device tip, and automated pigment readers, which assess the level of pigment in the skin and adjust the laser level presets accordingly—this used to be done by eye by the technician, which left a lot more room for error. “It’ll be really delicate with someone who’s got much darker skin and it still works just as well, but it changes the settings up depending on your real skin type and real melanin level and not just what I think you are,” says Burns. Red hair is another pigment type that used to be harder to target but is now safe and effective with a good machine.
Is laser hair removal effective for darker skin tones?
As long as the hair to be removed has pigment in it, it can be lasered on anyone of any skin tone, as a properly configured laser will target the melanin in the hair, and not in the skin. With less contrast between the pigment levels of the skin and hair (i.e. if both skin and hair are dark) it may require more sessions.
Does laser hair removal work on grey hair?
It does not. “The only hair that laser technology cannot work on is hair without pigment, so grey, silver or super blonde as in platinum hair,” says Burns. “Laser technology works on the pigment; there has to be pigment in the hair for it to target.” If you think you’d like to pursue laser hair removal and are starting to see white hairs emerge in the area you’re considering, the time to do it is sooner than later.
What do you have to do to prep for laser hair removal sessions?
This was the biggest learning curve for me: I had to learn how to shave my bikini line properly, to the point that not even a sliver of hair was left above the skin, since that helps the laser work better on the follicle; also it can burn if there is hair above the skin. This necessitated buying a fresh new razor and digging out some shaving cream, allotting a full 20 minutes in the shower and doing some serious gymnastics to access all areas. Three sessions in and I still haven’t won my technician Shima’s approval on my shaving technique—she recommends regular exfoliation up until the day before to allow for a closer shave. Burns likes to use coconut or avocado oil to get a close shave that also moisturizes the skin.
Timing also matters: It’s ideal to do this 24 hours before your laser appointment, so there’s no regrowth but the skin also isn’t raw from shaving. I had to reschedule my first appointment because I forgot to do my shave in the ideal window and became obsessive about setting cal reminders to shower and shave at the precise moment.
Afterwards, avoid exfoliation and hot temperatures such as steam rooms for 24 hours, and also direct exposure to sunlight, so don’t schedule it the day before a beach vacation.
Does laser hair removal hurt?
I’ve felt a slight sting on spots where I haven’t shaved perfectly, but aside from that, no pain. When the glassy surface area of the device is passed over the skin it feels slightly warm and is over in minutes—less time and a lot less pain than a wax. Burns points out that some people are more sensitive to pain, some people may feel it more on different areas, such as the shins, some may feel more sensitive during their period, and if you shave the morning of your service the skin is more likely to be sensitive.
Can you wax or shave in between laser hair removal sessions?
You can shave, but you can’t wax or tweeze, because you want the follicles to be intact for their next laser blasting session. Waxing is basically off the table forever, unless you decide to use that for maintenance rather than lasering.
How much does laser hair removal cost?
Pricing varies by body part, and is often sold in packages, which gives better value, since multiple sessions are always needed. At Waxon, a single session ranges from $65 for upper lip to $370 for full leg; $125 for classic bikini. Eight upper lip laser sessions will set you back $390, which works out to $48.75 each. Some mathematical future projections of what you might save in ongoing waxing costs is in order; factor in the time and convenience savings too.
How many sessions will I need?
There’s no simple answer to this: It depends on the person, their skin and hair, and a t It’s something to discuss in a consultation appointment (which is free at Waxon and most reputable salons) but it’s not something a tech can predict even by looking at you. You have to just go for it and see how it goes. Six sessions, spaced six weeks apart, is a typical recommendation, and then you would wait a few months and see how much hair grows back. Three sessions in, my bikini line is growing in a few sparse patches; it seems like six will be the ticket but I’ll just have to wait and see.
Do hormones affect efficacy of laser hair removal?
Hormones do affect hair growth patterns, and can affect the response to laser hair removal as well. Laser is a recommended hair removal choice for those with hormonal conditions such as hirsutism, but “untreated hormonal diseases can result in variable-to-poor responses to laser hair removal, and these patients usually require more sessions than patients with normal hormone levels,” according to a 2020 article in the medical journal Dermatology Practical and Conceptual. It adds, “axillae [armpit] and belt areas respond better than legs, arms, and chest.”
Does laser hair removal help with ingrown hairs?
A big yes, and this is a huge benefit if you’re plagued by bumps from shaving or waxing. “There are ingrown hairs with every other hair removal method,” says Burns. “From the follicle, the hair starts to grow up, then it coils under and starts to grow the other way, causing a bump on the surface. If you suffer with ingrown hairs, with laser you’d see it start to disappear, and it’s a beautiful thing.” Since laser targets and destroys the hair follicle, it works by stopping the hair from regrowing at all—or if it does, it’s usually much finer—so sayonara, ingrowns.
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