How often do you wax your motorhome and what product do you use?
- Labels:
- Class A
56 REPLIES
creeper
Aug-27-2015 07:47 PM
AdequateRV wrote:Jagtech wrote:
Still waiting for the RMP/ZEP crowd to wade in here.....
Yeah, me too. I'm surprised it made it three pages without a mention. Has this been disproved or fallen out of favor?
It started to peel and they saw the errors of their way.
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AdequateRV
Aug-27-2015 06:54 PM
Jagtech wrote:
Still waiting for the RMP/ZEP crowd to wade in here.....
Yeah, me too. I'm surprised it made it three pages without a mention. Has this been disproved or fallen out of favor?
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creeper
Aug-27-2015 05:49 PM
IF you don't care about scratching then hire some kid to do your RV or some company who's just looking to do it on the cheap, been there done that had to fix what they did.
I've watched some of the "professionals" short cut like crazy and just throw some wax on it, looks great for a short time. You can make a junker look great for a week or so with just carnauba wax, correct that paint and seal and that same junker will look great for a long time.
I've been detailing my show cars for years, never have them taken to car washes as they just strip all the protection off.
When I get a new car/RV I try to get them not to wash it, that way I don't have to correct the damage they put on the new vehicle with their crummy brushes.
Depending on the paint condition, this is my general procedure when I first get it or need to redo the entire protection.
1. Strip previous waxes with Chemical Guys Citrus wash and gloss. If you're cheap you can use dawn. I use a foam cannon to speed up the washing (which is really a great device), using a 2 bucket method. Washing is where you'll get the most scratches.
2. Clay bar or auto scrub the paint surface if needed.
3. If lots of scratches/ water spots etc. Then use Mequiar's D300 or D301, then wipe down with 20% alcohol solution to remove any left over product.
4. Seal paint with Mequiar's M21 Mirror Glaze. Then you're done.
Optional step is Wax with Collinite 845 insulator wax. It brings even more luster and protection, but not needed.
After that just maintain with a spare on quick wax. I use a machine to put on wax and sealant. I do one side in a couple of hours one day, then another side another day and the front and back on another day. No rush to get the whole thing done in one day as I'm not that young anymore.
Just a tip use a PH balanced car wash, otherwise you're just stripping your wax and sealant off on the first wash. Most of those walmart car wash soaps do just that, strip off all the wax you put on or paid someone to put on. I generally use Mr Pinks shampoo, Chemical guys Citrus wash and gloss severely diluted or Mequiar's gold for just a regular wash.
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mike77leprechau
Jul-08-2015 06:16 PM
Find the nearest teenager looking for $100... Some
Nufinish and you're good to go. Probably won't do it again but it's almost comical how excited they get at the prospect of $100 for just waxing and it quickly goes away
Current Rig: 2018 Forest River Salem 32BHI Towed with a 2017 Ram 1500 Big Horn 4x4-5.7 Hemi/4x4/3.92/8 Speed Auto
"You should really invest in a Diesel 1 ton to properly tow that popup"
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Jagtech
Jul-08-2015 05:51 PM
Still waiting for the RMP/ZEP crowd to wade in here.....
1998 Triple E F53
1995 Jeep Wrangler toad
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Tom_Barb
Jul-08-2015 05:46 PM
Vulcan Rider wrote:Rodz wrote:
Full body paint was an option on many class A's.
Oops.
My bad for not paying more attention to which sub-forum this original question is IN.
But the whole discussion has been proceeding like EVERY class A has automotive paint......and they don't. Many or even most maybe but not all.
I'm interested in what, if anything can be done to B,C, 5ths and TTs, not necessarily to make them shine but to make the dirt stick less and minimize the black streaks. Maybe I should start a different thread but some class A's will have the same question.
'
Preformed fiberglass panels usually are a gell-coat finish. Gel-coat goes in the mold first and the parts get laid up behind the gel-coat.
treat them as you would a boat finish. polish and wax.
2000 Newmar mountain aire 4081 DP, ISC/350 Allison 6 speed, Wrangler JL toad.
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Tom_Barb
Jul-08-2015 05:42 PM
Vulcan Rider wrote:
The "coating" used in automotive applications is not the same as what is applied to the (typically) thin fiberglass shells on RV's.
The big "real" busses are probably an exception but the paint and "clear coat" on most of them is NOT THE SAME.
Over the course of your "career", how many RV body panels have you replaced and repainted ??
When we bought the Newmar, we had some clear coat peeling issues, I called Newmar tech support and asked what system was used at the factory for the paint system, and my color match numbers.
They informed me that the system was a two stage Sherman Williams brand and to talk to the paint manufacturer for what to do.
S&W tells me to pressure wash the coach to remove any loose clear coat, then simply polish the base coat with a good quality cleaner wax and apply a good sealer wax to finish. They do not advise re-applying the clear coat.
I followed their advice, using McGuire's products and it looks great.
2000 Newmar mountain aire 4081 DP, ISC/350 Allison 6 speed, Wrangler JL toad.
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Vulcan_Rider
Jul-08-2015 04:35 PM
Rodz wrote:
Full body paint was an option on many class A's.
Oops.
My bad for not paying more attention to which sub-forum this original question is IN.
But the whole discussion has been proceeding like EVERY class A has automotive paint......and they don't. Many or even most maybe but not all.
I'm interested in what, if anything can be done to B,C, 5ths and TTs, not necessarily to make them shine but to make the dirt stick less and minimize the black streaks. Maybe I should start a different thread but some class A's will have the same question.
'
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ncrowley
Jul-08-2015 04:18 PM
I use Wash and Wax All. It is fast and easy to use and does a great job. I wax it about 3 tines per year.
Nancy
Newmar Northern Star
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jwmII
Jul-08-2015 04:02 PM
once or twice a year. Whatever is convenient. I use the Aero wash wax mop kit and their wax. Check it out. It really minimizes the work.
jwmII
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Rodz
Jul-08-2015 03:06 PM
Vulcan Rider wrote:Rodz wrote:
I've done some RV and boat repair. But that's gel coat without any paint. Repair, spray gel coat, sand and buff. It's actually easier than painting. The newer motor homes use automotive paint.
OK, so what qualifies as "newer" ??
Mine is a 2007 Class C and it certainly does NOT.
There is a stark difference between the paint on the cab, a Ford truck, and the finish on the "home" part.
I can't say that you are absolutely wrong because I don't know for sure. All but the very large ones (Class A's)still LOOK like they are fiberglass.
When weight and cost are prime factors, I just can't see the smaller ones converting to a metal shell.....or a thick enough fiberglass...... that flexing wouldn't crack conventional paint.
Full body paint was an option on many class A's. It was standard on most diesels for a long time. Ford delivered the class C chassis with paint on the cab. The rest is gel coat fiberglass. It takes a lot of work to get and keep a shine on gel coat.
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hanko
Jul-08-2015 02:48 PM
Ductape wrote:BigSkyBob wrote:hanko wrote:
the two that I found the easiest are new finish and rejex. The rejex wins. goes on easier comes off easier. I do mine once a year, pretty much takes a day and a 12 pack. One of the best things I've ever bought for my coach is a water de ionizer. You don't have to touch the coach with a towel when you done washing
I purchased one of these too and it's amazing there isn't one water spot after it dries.
You guys care to give specifics? Brand / model?
On the Go makes small portable softeners and deionizer. the only problem is the refill resin kits are expensive, but I dont care, as it takes all the work out of washing the coach
2014 Tiffin Open Road 36LA,Banks Power pack,sumo springs, 5 star tune, magnum invertor
2013 Ford Focus Toad
Haigh Superstar
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Vulcan_Rider
Jul-08-2015 02:30 PM
Rodz wrote:
I've done some RV and boat repair. But that's gel coat without any paint. Repair, spray gel coat, sand and buff. It's actually easier than painting. The newer motor homes use automotive paint.
OK, so what qualifies as "newer" ??
Mine is a 2007 Class C and it certainly does NOT.
There is a stark difference between the paint on the cab, a Ford truck, and the finish on the "home" part.
I can't say that you are absolutely wrong because I don't know for sure. All but the very large ones (Class A's)still LOOK like they are fiberglass.
When weight and cost are prime factors, I just can't see the smaller ones converting to a metal shell.....or a thick enough fiberglass...... that flexing wouldn't crack conventional paint.
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Ductape
Jul-08-2015 02:27 PM
BigSkyBob wrote:hanko wrote:
the two that I found the easiest are new finish and rejex. The rejex wins. goes on easier comes off easier. I do mine once a year, pretty much takes a day and a 12 pack. One of the best things I've ever bought for my coach is a water de ionizer. You don't have to touch the coach with a towel when you done washing
I purchased one of these too and it's amazing there isn't one water spot after it dries.
You guys care to give specifics? Brand / model?
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