Does anyone have any FIRST HAND experience in cleaning up the outside of an older enclosed trailer? The trailer is an 02, it has .050 outer walls of that matters, the paint (or baked enamel) is in decent shape but naturally is oxidized and dull. I don’t mind putting the work in panel by panel, but I am looking for what someone has actually done and if the result was worth the work.
I have been told to use LA awesome degreaser followed by wax, I tried that in a corner of the trailer and followed it with a basic way and it worked ok, but I got a lot of white coming off with the degreaser on the towel, now sure if that is normal or if that is the wrong thing to do.
Posts: 216 | Location: NJ | Registered: January 29, 2003
WHOMPWHOMPDRR Pro
posted May 25, 2021 09:01 PM
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LA AWESOME is to strong IMO...I’d try simple green then follow with wax
Posts: 1270 | Location: USA | Registered: December 04, 2008
TPatonDRR Trophy
posted May 25, 2021 09:08 PM
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On my old trailer, I used McGuires cleaner wax after I washed it. Then used regular carnuba wax. It cleaned up very nice.
The la awesome works but you have to be fast and careful. I tried it on one small area, and wasn't willing to chance it. Some swear by it, but I went back to the old school way.
Also. Did it all by hand, no buffers or power polishers. Mine was a 24ft trailer. Took me a few hours , but came out really nice. The guy I sold.it to still has it and it still looks good for a 21 year old trailer.
Good luck
Posts: 106 | Location: PA | Registered: June 02, 2006
Curly1DRR Top Comp Picture of Curly1
posted May 25, 2021 09:30 PM
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Seems like I remember from another similar thread the Simple Green was too strong and damaged the paint?
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Posts: 4191 | Location: United States of Texas | Registered: April 02, 2011
CURTIS REEDDRR Pro Picture of CURTIS REED
posted May 25, 2021 09:36 PM
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I’m going to be waxing mine soon also. Just cleaned it with Awesome cleaner. Used 20 ounces to 5 gallons. Did one panel at a time with one of those long soft brushes that hooks to your hose. Cleaned black tree residue and diesel exhaust off it really well.
Don’t do it in the sun if at all possible. I have covered parking to work under at the house.
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Posts: 3084 | Location: KIEFER, OK. | Registered: August 17, 2007
BuckyDRR Elite
posted May 25, 2021 09:45 PM
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There was a guy on here maybe will weigh in that sold a trailer cleaner. Worked in a similar way to the Awesome, but sold by a racer so maybe that's why I preferred it. The Awesome IMO is too strong full strength and can get you in trouble if you aren't careful. And yes rinsing as you go is important as if it dries, all the crud dries right there.
But whatever is done, yes you remove some paint as a rule. Cleaner was has abrasive, and removes paint as you can see on the rag after. But it gets rid of that top oxidized layer. If these things were clear coated over the paint I think they would be much more durable. If the trailer is outside year round, and you keep cleaning it to make it look nice, eventually IMO, you run out of nice paint. But what are you gonna do. I dilute the awesome down half or more, and do a quick cleaning with the soft brush with someone rinsing behind me.
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Posts: 6441 | Location: Illinois | Registered: July 08, 2004
SLICKSTERDRR Trophy
posted May 25, 2021 10:18 PM
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NHRA1877 We have done this several times.(oid guy here 66) Our go to is mean green and it works great. Start by using a bug sprayer and dilluting the product 50-50 with water. Do not get trailer wet right away. Start by spraying down the side (in shade) with the bug sprayer. Use a wash mit sprayed with the stuff mixed in the sprayer. Do the whole side and have someone rinse the panel you just did as you do the next. May be stay 2 panels ahead. Continue till trailer is done. Now it its not clean do it again and we have actually used the mean green full strength but I do not want to recommend it as I do not want something stupied to happen. After you think its clean use an orbital D/A polisher (not like a body shop spin in a circle) buffer. Use a cleaner wax first (as mentiond earlier) and do one panel at a time. Then when you are satisfied then use a wax. On a 28-34 foot enclosed it takes us 2 days but we are slow. Once its cleaned up, shiny and waxed we will touch up every couple of months and just use the orbital to put wax on and take the wax off. That is about a 2 hr. job and thats being slow. Its real easy to keep nice and once you do it you will see how easy it is to wax. We have even do it while we are racing at a multi-day event. Oh yea, if its white no problem, Black (and yes we have done a black one) 3 days. If the screws are ****ty this would be a good time to replace and its not a bad job either. Thay make a double square bit driver for the trailer screws and dont even try the #2 square drive. Get the bit off amazon buy a couple cause if you loose it in the grass you will be SOL. Trailer screws sell on e-bay and look for the ones that talk about the coating on them as they are better screws. Usally about 90 bucks buys enough screws. Sorry so long but as I said I have done many for myself and others. Its not hard its just more time than work. P.S. You may want to take it to a semi truck wash first as they spray the roof with some kind of cleaner and then wash the rest. We have done that also but we have the motorhome done also so I do not know what the cost break down is. We ran a bad one through with a dually but someone else paid and I never asked at the time.
Posts: 321 | Location: ohio | Registered: June 06, 2006
NEMO963DRR Sportsman
posted May 26, 2021 08:17 AM
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I have a 1996 classic in white, every 6 months I wash with auto soap and water then use a cheapie orbital with Terry cloth pad and Maguires cleaner /wax. I start with two panels, then Wipe off the first with microfiber towel, then do another panel with wax and then go back and wipe one off and keep going in that pattern. Takes about 4 hours to do my 40 ft by myself. Still Looks really good, i do get some white off when o wash it still. I also painted the roof with white cool seal from Lowes, covering that aluminum on the roof has helped a ton with the streaking, almost have none at the 6 month mark when it’s time to wax.
Scott, start with a trip to Blue Beacon, I’m heading there tonight. Tell them no brighter and to brush the trailer. After that use a polish followed by your favorite wax. Be very careful of using any “cleaner” polish or wax.
Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000
LincolnDRR Sportsman
posted May 26, 2021 09:39 AM
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You have to cut the oxidation out. I use a mild Maguires rubbing compound (liquid) with an orbital buffer then apply a good wax the same way.
Posts: 147 | Location: Left of Center | Registered: February 08, 2007
Canted ValveDRR S/Pro
posted May 26, 2021 09:51 AM
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I keep seeing all this talk about "wax". Wax is stone age technology. The longest lasting and better performing is a "polymer sealant", e.g. Mequiar's Synthetic Sealant 2.0. Sometimes sold as wax because that's what everybody is use to seeing/using.
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Posts: 2355 | Location: OKC, OK | Registered: February 15, 2008
1320racerDRR Elite
posted May 26, 2021 09:52 AM
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No way I’d use a rubbing compound maybe a polishing compound and only after doing a small test spot like high on the ramp door that you will not notice immediately if you damaged/removed what’s left of the paint.This message has been edited. Last edited by: 1320racer, May 26, 2021 04:30 PM
Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000
WHOMPWHOMPDRR Pro
posted May 26, 2021 10:20 AM
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ED it’s your shyt but I can’t believe you go thru a BB....you should this guys NEWELL MH down here that he told them not to use this an that...700,000 MH totally ruined....
Posts: 1270 | Location: USA | Registered: December 04, 2008
LincolnDRR Sportsman
posted May 26, 2021 10:31 AM
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quote:Originally posted by 1320racer: No way I’d use a running compound maybe a polishing compound and only after doing a small test spot like high on the ramp door that you with notice immediately if you damaged/removed what’s left of the paint.
Mild cut with an orbital buffer on my last trailer when I bought it used and once again before I sold it with no issues. Now a high speed buffer and heavy cut compound I agree with you.
Posts: 147 | Location: Left of Center | Registered: February 08, 2007
1320racerDRR Elite
posted May 26, 2021 10:59 AM
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quote:Originally posted by WHOMPWHOMP: ED it’s your shyt but I can’t believe you go thru a BB....you should this guys NEWELL MH down here that he told them not to use this an that...700,000 MH totally ruined....
All I can tell you is that I’ve been having my trailers washed by Blue Beacons for about 15 years, east of the Mississippi. I have never had an issue nor have any of my friends. I have also never used their brightener.
Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000
TD3550DRR Sportsman
posted May 26, 2021 11:11 AM
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There is a truck tank wash here in town. Several of my friends also use it. They don't use caustics due to these trailer. (A lot) are food grade. You tell them what you want and it is done. This center has "Strict" FDA guidelines. I know a bunch that go there with the High end $$$ toters/trailers and MH.. Pretty happy.
Posts: 1412 | Location: Under a Truck | Registered: August 23, 2013
SLICKSTERDRR Trophy
posted May 26, 2021 02:56 PM
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Not to be a know it all here but 1320Racer is correct about a rubbing compound like to rub out cars after paint. It will be a mess. How do I know I did collision and paint work for ever and being a in a hury, flat rate stupied, ill get er done I used the stuff I stole from work. Rubbing compound as most of the materials I helped myself to it worked great on my side jobs so why not use it on the trailer. Well I did the back door first and it shined right up, except for the scratches the compound made and left on the surface. No problem just use polishing compound right. Nope started getting thin and transparent finish getting the scratches out. Well 2 sheets painted aluminum and a Saturday took care of my in a hurry flat rate get er done mental state. Re-skinned the rear ramp door. That was like 1997 so only a cleaner wax or a very light oxidation remover for me and do not let the trailer get to the point that its bad. Keep inside if you can as I whish I could but all mine have hade to sit outside. I have used Blue Beacon or what ever the name is as 1320racer has, usually on the way to a race cause flat ass ran out of time before I left.
Posts: 321 | Location: ohio | Registered: June 06, 2006
SLICKSTERDRR Trophy
posted May 26, 2021 03:05 PM
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Canted Valve, That product from Meguires is nice stuff. Some of the later products out there are just plane better than ever.
Posts: 321 | Location: ohio | Registered: June 06, 2006
WHOMPWHOMPDRR Pro
posted May 26, 2021 04:57 PM
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If you want something quick to keep everything on point get you some BEADMAKER....
Posts: 1270 | Location: USA | Registered: December 04, 2008
I've used this with a foam pad on a buffer with good success on dull black trailers. Brings up the shine pretty good and leaves no swirl marks, worth a try........
If you're going to Numidia this weekend I can bring some and a buffer.
Posts: 1422 | Location: Monroe twp nj | Registered: December 05, 2005
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DragRaceResults.Com Bracket Talk Bracket Talk Forum Tech Talk - by Abruzzi Waxing enclosed trailer
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The paint on "most" trailer panels is called curtain coating,electro-coating, ecoat. It is done on a line to coat a roll of over a thousand feet long, and it is not a high quality paint. It is delivered to most large trailer manufacturers in the same roll and sheared to what size they need. Smaller builders buy from a metal supplier in common sizes and colors. The paint is not designed to be automotive quality, nor is it. You can't treat it like automotive paint. It is not even as thick as a single stage color, years back I checked the mil thickness and it was an average of 1.4 to 1.7 mils. It is enamel, and some are even getting to water based. A good thickness for a single coat of powder is 3 to 3.5 mils. Any kind of mechanical polishing, buffing will kill the life out of it. It was never designed to last like an automotive paint. There are consequences for anything that is applied to it that is acidic,caustic. And using anything mechanical on a standard screwed trailer wall to even apply wax will remove the coating off of the screws, wether the screw coating is zinc or another of the latest and greatest garbage they are using.
I got 17 years out of a repaint and rescrew and it is still a 6 out of 10. I repainted with Dupont white Industrial Imron. It was some nasty stuff, but it lasted, and the screws that were standard zinc were new at that time as well. Being it is Imron I could remove all the screws and buff it, rescrew it and it would look like a 8 out of ten. At the end of the day, it is a trailer, It is paid for, it stores the car out of the Florida sun, it does a good job of hauling my car when I want to race.
