Waxing & Buffing Made Easy

📅 November 2, 2024 ✍️ By Nicole Harmon ⏱️ 13 Mins Read 🗂️ Blog 🕒 Last updated: November 5, 2024 📌 Tags:metal polishing

I've received several messages asking how I wax and buff pipes, so I took a few photo's to show how it's done.
My ancient buffer gave out a while back and since then I've been using a 3450rpm one speed. A variable speed buffer is preferable. Mistakes or loss of concentration at this speed are unforgiving.
(left is the wax wheel/right is the metal wheel)

I have waxed at least 20 pipes with this block of carnauba, and you can see just how little it takes to get a nice shine.

Start with a buffing wheel that is clean and has never been used with any compounds etc. Using a screw driver blade, fluff the wheel with the flat edge. Run a block of pure carnauba from left to right on the spinning wheel for 1 second with easy pressure so that the wheel is not overloaded with wax.
Here is the briar prepped and ready to wax.

I always keep my index finger inside the bowl while using the buffer. This usually prevents the pipe from being launched into floor at mach speed. I said usually. Lessons learned the hard way. Always keep your flat edges pointed away from the rotation, such as the rim or diamond shaped shanks.
Applying the first coat
This is pretty straight forward. Don't worry about getting an even coat or making it shine. For the first coat, you're just covering the all the briar. It will look uneven, cloudy, and have streaks. When the wax is wearing thin, give the wheel another quick 1 second zip with carnauba and continue on. Light and gentle pressure is the key to waxing. All the wax is in the top loose layers of the fabric. Never press hard and dig into wheel.
After the first coat. Still cloudy and uneven.

Second run on the wheel
For this, I don't apply any more wax to the wheel. Use the flathead screw driver and fluff the wheel again before starting. Gentle pressure is the key. Think of spreading warm butter on toast. Always keep the pipe moving. Don't hold it in one spot, and try not to let the pipe bounce on the wheel. You'll start to see the ripples and cloudiness fade away. At this point don't worry about getting the mirror finish yet, just concentrate on thinning the wax ripples and getting an even coating. It will still look a bit cloudy.
Somewhat shiny and slightly cloudy.

Here is where the micro fiber cloth comes into play. This makes a huge difference in the final outcome of the finish. Give the briar good rub down with the cloth and a hand buffing.
Once more on the wheel.
This time I use a clean buffer wheel that has never had anything applied to it, marked the "finisher." I have all the different buffer wheels labeled for each purpose. Wax, Compound, metal (sterling, aluminum), etc.
After the finisher, one final rub down with the microfiber.

If I've left anything out or didn't convey any of the process clearly, just ask me to clarify. Everyone has their own way of doing things and there is more than one way to skin a cat, but this is what works for me. Through trial and error, I have condensed what I've learned into the most simple and effective way of achieving the best results.

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Pipe Repair and Maintenance

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zack24

Lifer

May 11, 2013

1,726

Jul 4, 2015

Thought this might fit in with this subject- Had a nice talk with the guys from SEM in Chicago (they're the German company that makes ebonite). They have a two step polishing process to finish ebonite. After shaping and sanding is complete (only to 1000 grit), they have a brown compound used on the small wheel, followed by a yellow polishing compound on the larger softer wheel. After a couple of weeks, I've found that the brown compound doesn't leave a residue unlike some of the green and red compounds I've used before. The yellow compound seems to be a mix of a diamond and carnauba- It's cut my finishing time by 1/3...and the results are better and it works great on polishing briar...The only downside is the small wheel is 35 euros, the large is 40 euros, and the brown and yellow compounds are 40 euros apiece...I think it ran aound $210 with shipping...Another tip that might help- my main motor is a 1/2hp 1750 from an old pipe repair shop- I use a hand tightened chuck on the arbor so I can quickly change out sanding discs or buffing wheels...

ssjones

Moderator

Staff member

May 11, 2011

18,890

12,768

Covington, Louisiana

postimg.cc

Jul 4, 2015

This is the Jestco arbor, about $15. I replaced the end nut with a wing-nut (trimmed down to not hit a pipe!) so I can change pads without tools.

ejames

Lifer

Oct 6, 2009

3,916

Jul 4, 2015

I like the Jestco arbors also,they're staight-no run out to speak of. I have two of them. I bought a cheaper one,with the same thread (1/2" X 20 TPI) as the Jestco to mount a Jacobs style chuck on.It had a lot of run out and caused a lot of vibration. Was some better after I shortened the threaded part but it will be replaced. The chuck is handy for a variety of drilling- sanding tasks and can be changed out quickly and easily to my buffing arbor. I'm looking for another motor to mount it to so I can use the other two strictly for buffing and waxing.

I also like Jestco's Red Rouge for stem work.

latest-projects-7-3-15-2015-07-03-002-800x582-600x436.jpg

phil67

Lifer

Dec 14, 2013

2,052

Jul 4, 2015

Allow me to recommend the use of a Variac (such as is shown below) with your buffer, as it allows you to control the speed. I purchased mine at an antique mall for $15.00, and it works wonderfully well.

You've got to be somewhat cautious with any speed controller as it basically only reduces the current to a motor. If used on a single phase motor you have the chance of burning out the motor over time. Bottom line... I simply don't trust the things and they are not meant or intended to be used with a buffing motor. I opted for a VFD with a three phase motor which also gives me the option of variable RPM without any risk to the motor while keeping the same torque. But, then again that is what they are designed for.

_________________________________________________________

I like sewn cotton buffs for abrasives and loose wheels for carnuba wax.

+++1 on using only loose sewn wheels for applying carnauba wax as sewn wheels can be a tad too aggressive for that procedure. Also, never apply too much wax to the wheel as very little is needed and a use only a very light touch. I keep one loose sewn wheel which has nothing on it for a final buff after applying the wax.
As for wheel rakes... a must have in my opinion for properly maintaining a buffing wheel.

huntertrw

Lifer

Jul 23, 2014

5,715

7,053

The Lower Forty of Hill Country

Jul 4, 2015

"I opted for a VFD..." For the uninitiated, this is a variable frequency drive. phil67: Were I constantly using my bench-top grinder as a buffer, then I believe that your point might be valid; however, I have used it only occasionally as such (with the Variac) for more than five years with no problems. For those individuals concerned with costs, if you think that a Variac is expensive, then check the prices on VFDs and three-phase motors. To my way of thinking, that is strictly a professional-grade investment.

ssjones

Moderator

Staff member

May 11, 2011

18,890

12,768

Covington, Louisiana

postimg.cc

Jul 5, 2015

That Variac looks like a nice piece that won't harm a motor. They seem to be very popular with "growers" of another smoking weed for fan controls...

tobyducote

Lifer

Jun 10, 2012

1,204

New Orleans

Jul 5, 2015

I run the Shopfox 1681...it has 3 pulleys and I'm able to adjust my buffer speed up or down by changing the belt from one pulley to another...they can be purchased for around $100..I contaced an A/C repair company and purchased an old A/C 1/2 hp blower motor for $25...been working great for the last 3-4 years. I only use white Diamond and carnauba on my briars, and brown tripoli on badly oxidized stems

ssjones

Moderator

Staff member

May 11, 2011

18,890

12,768

Covington, Louisiana

postimg.cc

Jul 5, 2015

Wow, that Shop Fox looks awesome. $99 at Sears...hmmm, my birthday is in a few weeks...

http://www.sears.com/shop-fox-buffing-assembly/p-SPM7423835123?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1

jkrug

Lifer

Jan 23, 2015

2,867

Jul 14, 2015

Some really great info on buffing and buffers here guys. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us. ::

warren

Lifer

Sep 13, 2013

12,217

18,001

Foothills of the Chugach Range, AK

Jul 15, 2015

I'm sorry but, every time this thread rises to the top I have to fight down the urge to comment. I'll just say that the title is one of the most intriguing I've seen and it's a wonder that the thread has stayed on topic for so long. I salute all of you, particularly those of you who have successfully stifled your first thoughts and remained on the intended topic. I am impressed and will admit to a bit of disappointment also.

danielplainview

Lifer

Mar 30, 2014

2,853

Jul 15, 2015

stifled your first thoughts

Now I'm intrigued. Tell us what you think. Us resto guys can beat a topic to death.

warren

Lifer

Sep 13, 2013

12,217

18,001

Foothills of the Chugach Range, AK

Jul 15, 2015

Since you asked. Words such as "Brazilian" and "Landing Strip" come to mind. Then, once one's mind has gone in that direction, the different connotations of "buffing", and what can be "buffed" come to mind. I hesitate to step off the sidewalk and put both feet into the gutter for fear of offending. Worse, would be certain other members jumping in and . . . there goes the thread. You must remember that even when we have nothing to contribute to a thread, one or ten of us will still chime in. You guys have two pages and growing of a thread which has managed to stay on topic. Other than the "what are you smoking", "listening to" and others this is a rare occurrence. All of you are to be congratulated. Your discussion is either so boring to many of us or so esoteric that we hesitate to jump in. Good on you! On a serious note, as a woodworker in my spare time, this thread is of interest. Now that I've opened the door let's see if the thread can long survive.

wyfbane

Lifer

Apr 26, 2013

5,117

3,519

Tennessee

Jul 15, 2015

GREATthreadI

phil67

Lifer

Dec 14, 2013

2,052

Jul 15, 2015

A must read on the use of buffing wheels for pipes is at rebornpipes. The Beall Wood-Buffing System is great as are their wheels, and as you’ll notice, only loose sewn wheels are used as opposed to concentric sewn wheels. Other than that, whatever motor system you use and can afford isn’t all that important as long as you keep the RPM in the 1700 to 2000 range.

danielplainview

Lifer

Mar 30, 2014

2,853

Jul 15, 2015

Thanks for the link Phil. That's a great article. Steve has a fantastic setup. I'll definitely be checking into the extensions. My set up can get a little tight, especially when working on Canadians.

danielplainview

Lifer

Mar 30, 2014

2,853

Jul 16, 2015

Warrenhome

huntertrw

Lifer

Jul 23, 2014

5,715

7,053

The Lower Forty of Hill Country

Jul 16, 2015

Ok, warren, you asked for it... Who is Harry Crumb?

okiescout

Lifer

Jan 27, 2013

1,530

Jul 23, 2015

Outstanding

ssjones

Moderator

Staff member

May 11, 2011

18,890

12,768

Covington, Louisiana

postimg.cc

Aug 31, 2015

I just had a great experience at Jestco. I thought one of their "extra thick buffing pads" would be great. I didn't read the specs fully and it was too wide to fit onto my Jestco arbor. I emailed them, hoping to exchange that $18 pad for two, regular width, 6" pads. The owner (Claude Jester) emailed me tonight and said my two pads are on the way (and sent the USPS tracking). He said to mail the extra-wide buff back and include $5 to cover the difference. THAT is how you should run a small business. Nice.
http://jestcoproducts.com/

pepesdad1

Lifer

Feb 28, 2013

1,023

677

Sep 1, 2015

Very happy with Jestco and the owner Claude...very helpful on the phone.

Not open for further replies.

ssjones

Moderator

Staff member

May 11, 2011

18,890

12,768

Covington, Louisiana

postimg.cc

Sep 5, 2015

I almost made a move on this today but ultimately passed. I could use a dual-arbor motor. $40 shipped.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/252073772791?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

ejames

Lifer

Oct 6, 2009

3,916

Sep 5, 2015

Cheap enough it it runs !

scrooge

Lifer

Apr 24, 2015

1,341

Mar 21, 2016

Here you go Jarod!

mcitinner1

Lifer

Apr 5, 2014

4,043

Missouri

Mar 22, 2016

Bump

danielplainview

Lifer

Mar 30, 2014

2,853

Mar 22, 2016

A critical piece of info I left out of the original post. I use the stiff multi-stitch buffer pads for the hard shell super gloss finish. You can see the type of pad in the first picture. (Left side) For a semi-gloss finish, I use the fluffy pads.

gloucesterman

Lifer

Jan 4, 2015

1,858

Massachusetts

Mar 22, 2016

Oh sure, I've been laying awake for the past year trying to figure out "how does he get that shine?". Now you tell me! Dutch

warren

Lifer

Sep 13, 2013

12,217

18,001

Foothills of the Chugach Range, AK

Mar 22, 2016

My favorite threadtitlethe keyboard

jerwynn

Lifer

Dec 7, 2011

1,033

Mar 23, 2016

Thanks to you all, and the OP that started it! This post/thread has been fabulously fascinating! And I am in awe of the skills, resourcefulness, ingenuity, and inventiveness of you guys!! I tend to be too frequently all thumbs in the shop, so your tales of adventure are downright inspiring! And now I know why my plasmatic 5000 dremel bench grinder keeps throwing my stummels against the wall and shattering them!! Who'da thunk you can't buff and polish at 60,000 rpm!! Now I know! Thanks again!! (just kidding about that last bit... I'm a klutz, but not THAT bad! Mostly.) Incidently, I went to print these pages... TWENTY SEVEN! So I thought copy/paste, keep an e-copy >>> 47 pages, requiring an excruciating amount of editing. Idea: you guys collaborate on a book in the same spirit and covering more of similar subjects and processes and ingenious solutions and hell, I'd buy it in a heart beat!! Betchya thousands of others would too!! In any case, keep it up!!! And thanks again! DIY never looked better!

jpmcwjr

Moderator

Staff member

May 12, 2015

25,902

29,581

Carmel Valley, CA

Mar 23, 2016

Not sure how/if it works on Windows, but using Safari onna Mac, you can choose File->Save As->Web Archive and you get the whole enchilada without editing or wasting paper.