Bridget Jones said that women are like farmers — constantly scraping, trimming, weeding, and plucking. And it can feel like we're forever fighting unwanted strands. (In warm months, 73 percent of women remove leg hair at least three times a week, and 61 percent tame the bikini line at least once a week.) But once you understand the science of hair growth, you'll be able to select the best tools and beauty products to get an amazingly close shave and win this (woolly) mammoth battle.
Like an iceberg, a hair shows only its tip; your true adversary, the root or follicle, lurks below the surface. Follicles follow a repeating three-phase life cycle — hair growth, hair death, rest. The growth phase lasts about 6 weeks; the resting phase, up to 6 months. Only about 30 percent of your follicles are sprouting hair at a time. The rest are hibernating until a new growth cycle begins. And why does all this matter?
Well, if you're using a shaving cream or using a depilatory, it doesn't. Both methods lop off only visible hair — they don't mess with the follicle, which is their biggest shortcoming: To stay smooth, you've got to do maintenance every few days or resign yourself to wearing those patterned tights the rest of the year. For more shaving tips, see the tools you'll need to battle the fuzz.
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But if you're bringing out the big guns — lasers and electrolysis — to target that dastardly follicle, hair growth cycles are key. Both procedures work best when your strands are growing; the hair conducts the destructive heat or electric current down to the follicle.
The light energy in lasers is drawn to dark pigment, so they're most effective if you have fair skin and dark hair. But the laser can be adjusted to handle almost every variation of skin and hair types, which is why selecting an experienced laser technician is essential. (Ask your dermatologist for a recommendation.)
The operator shines the beam over the furry area 2 centimeters at a time. The hair absorbs the laser's heat, disabling the follicle. It hurts, but it's not unbearable — like a rubber band snap. And while the procedure has been around for about a decade, new lasers are making it more popular. The latest devices operate at longer wavelengths, to treat dark complexions or very light hair safely. But it'll cost you: from $100 for the lip to $1,000 for the leg, per session.
Alas, one laser session isn't enough, because most of your hairs will be "resting" and immune to the rays. You'll need to schedule three to seven appointments at 6-week intervals to see significant results. And then the hair will be gone forever, right? Not exactly. Some follicles have an irritating habit of recovering from laser damage, and inevitably some hair sprouts due to changes in hormone levels. That's why the service can only be called permanent hair reduction (not removal). And you'll likely need yearly touch-ups.
Electrolysis involves inserting a small needle into each follicle, then applying an electric current to destroy it. It's often best for treating your face, because hair there tends to be blonder and finer than elsewhere on your body, making lasers less effective, says Eric Bernstein, M.D., a dermatologic laser surgeon in Bryn Mawr, Pennsylvania. Sessions start around $200, and you'll need to schedule three to five sessions 6 weeks apart to zap every single hair. The good news is the fried hairs generally stay gone. But here's the big downside: Shooting electricity into your follicles hurts like hell.
If going Star Wars on your Chewbacca areas is a bit intimidating, waxing offers the next best results. Like tweezing, it rips hair out at the root. And here's the best part: Repeated waxing thins growth. "With every waxing, the follicle weakens, so the hair grows in sparser and finer," says Mary Lupo, M.D., clinical professor of dermatology at Tulane University Medical School. (Tweezing does the same — which is why so many overzealous pluckers wind up penciling in their brows as they get older.)
There are two types of wax. Hard wax doesn't stick to skin, so it hurts less — a big plus — but its consistency limits its use to small areas. Soft wax, which is ripped off with large fabric strips, is better for the legs and bikini line. While you can do it yourself, you should see a professional for a bikini wax (you'll never get a good enough view) and for your face. "Wax can be dangerous in unskilled hands," warns Doris J. Day, M.D., a dermatologist in New York City. "The skin around the eye area is fragile, so wax that is too hot or removed improperly can burn and scar." And forget about waxing if you take prescription acne medication or use Retin-A — they make your skin more susceptible to bruising and burning. You'll need to stop taking them for 3 weeks if you want to wax.
A follicle won't go down without a struggle. But you can minimize the suffering. Schedule appointments for the 2 weeks after your period. A new study found you're less susceptible to pain then. (You're most sensitive the week before your period.) Take an anti-inflammatory, like ibuprofen, 30 minutes before. A topical numbing agent like LMX 4, containing lidocaine, is available over the counter. Always consult your doctor on how to use a numbing cream to avoid a potentially dangerous allergic reaction.
Once you've won your battle with body hair, you can focus your attention on more worthwhile pursuits — preferably ones that will allow you to show off your smooth skin.
Liesa Goins
Liesa Goins is a senior editor at Women's Health magazine.
