Polishing and waxing alternatives.

Automotive Forums .com Car Chat > Automotive Art > Car Modeling > Polishing and waxing alternatives.

swollen

06-08-2004, 05:01 PM

Polished and waxed my first body today. I'm happy to say it saved what I would call a really crappy paint job.

I was going to head done to the LHS and pick up some Tamiya rubbing compound and model wax. Instead I went into my 1:1 car detailing bin and pulled out my container of Turtle Wax White Polishing Compound and Scratch remover along with my bottle of Mothers California Gold Pure Carnueba Wax.

Using these two products took the dull, I think I'll redo it paint job and made it all shiny and presentable.

Here is a picture for proof.

http://members.shaw.ca/jetta_mike/Models/Duster.jpg

blueboost

06-09-2004, 10:47 AM

I searched recently to see what others may use to polish and way besides tamiya. I had a hard time finding much. I remember someone mentioned a product by 3M I believe, I couldn't find that thread either.

I also would like to hear what alternative polish and wax brands you've had sucess with on your models?

Bas Carwash

06-09-2004, 12:06 PM

I use Cartech Gloss Control. Got that from the garage where I work. We normaly use it for 1:1 cars, but it works fine for scale models to. I can tell you that every polish is more or less the same. They all polish the paint because there's some very fine sand or something similar in it. What I'm saying is that the brand of polish doesn't really matter. They all do the same and there isn't much difference between them. Believe me, we had all kinds of polish at the garage.

I use 3M's Rubbing Compound. It's available pretty much anywhere that sells car detailin products so it shouldn't be hard to find. I'm thinkin it's 5 or 6 bucks a bottle, and it works fine. I just follow up with some good automotive wax and it looks pretty good to me.

white97ex

06-09-2004, 12:26 PM

i use 3m rubbing compound. i follow with kit scratch remover and 2 coats of zymol auto wax.

CADguy

06-09-2004, 12:49 PM

The only thing I ever use is 2000 grit sandpaper, and Meguiar's Scratch X. It produces a very good shine.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/502/61680Sun_03.JPG

http://store4.yimg.com/I/classic-motoring_1792_14424743

ProSStreet

06-09-2004, 01:09 PM

I dont polish. Good ol' Testors rattle cans. heh.
http://img34.photobucket.com/albums/v103/ProSStreet/shot2.jpg

Turbo Monster

06-09-2004, 02:34 PM

That's nice, ProSStreet, that thing is wild! What kit is that?

ProSStreet

06-09-2004, 02:44 PM

AMT's '40 Ford Sedan delivery, with a few touches of my own. lol

labandabonnot

06-09-2004, 03:59 PM

Too much shine in this thread for my eyes! :lol:

Cadguy: Everybody will try to find Meguiar's Scratch X now!!!! There's no better ad' for it than your Miura! :eek:

BlueHand

06-09-2004, 04:12 PM

Everyone sure has their own personal way to get that shine, I just use auto T-cut, then some Tamiya wax, works a treat and a lasts for many models..

For sure cadguy, the shine on your Miura is a real stunner.. :eek:

Ferrari TR

06-09-2004, 05:46 PM

Warning!
Lots of auto polish/wax products contain solvents.
These will soften hobby enamels.
So... pick your products with care.

yellow15

06-09-2004, 06:48 PM

I use T-Cut and it's very good!
an example: (my current project)
before polishing (pretty bad orange peel you can see)
http://img25.photobucket.com/albums/v75/yellow15/Models/WRXWagon/wagon12.jpg

after polishing
http://img25.photobucket.com/albums/v75/yellow15/Models/WRXWagon/wagon11.jpg
http://img25.photobucket.com/albums/v75/yellow15/Models/WRXWagon/wagon14.jpg
http://img25.photobucket.com/albums/v75/yellow15/Models/WRXWagon/wagon13.jpg

I've used the Tamiya polish as well but i think it just helps get rid of the smaller polish marks and help brings a better shine. You can get 95% shine without the Tamiya polish.

(here is my progress thread if you are interested
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=222162&page=3 )

sugarfree

06-10-2004, 01:56 AM

nice job every one....

Snooker

06-10-2004, 08:02 AM

I use T-Cut and it's very good!
an example: (my current project)
before polishing (pretty bad orange peel you can see)

pictures removed to avoid unnecessary traffic. Snooker

I've used the Tamiya polish as well but i think it just helps get rid of the smaller polish marks and help brings a better shine. You can get 95% shine without the Tamiya polish.

(here is my progress thread if you are interested
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=222162&page=3 )

Could please post a pic of T-Cut and who is the producer?

Vric

06-10-2004, 08:11 AM

yellow15, that's is a nice before and after comparison ! it was orrible before :D

shieldwulf

06-11-2004, 01:47 AM

This is a nice thread! I'm interested to learn about the various kinds of polish that each of us uses. I think itz true that the polishes are more or less the same.

Recently, I began using this method:

1) Tamiya compound to smooth out the orange peels ...
2) ... followed by Hasegawa Ceramic Compound for microscopic smoothing ...
3) ... and final shine with Hasegawa Coating Polymer.

Eyeball Kid

06-11-2004, 02:42 AM

I worked in a body shop for years and have always had the best results with 3M Finesse It II for both real cars and models. Turtle Wax scratch and swirl remover is also pretty good and available at most auto parts stores. I would prefer Finesse It, but I couldn't find it last time I tried, so the Turtle Wax is doing the trick.

Also if you can find MaGuire's ultra fine 2000 sandpaper to wet sand the clearcoat, get it. That stuff has a very fine and consistent grain.

Once I polish with Finesse or Turtle Wax, I topcoat with Race Glaze, but I dont' have a bottle in front of me for more information, but I know that's what it's called.

Merkava

06-11-2004, 04:35 PM

I've had good luck using 3M 1500 grit sandpaper followed by Tamiya P2000 "Finishing Abrasives" (also sandpaper) to remove imperfections and orange peel. These products need to be used wet or they won't work well at all!
Then I rub some Meguire's Mirror Glaze #7 into the paint, which makes for some crazy-ass shine. :sunglasse

I've used this technique on Tamiya Lacquers and Automotive paints, and it works well either way.

Another thing, is that the bottle of Meguire's polish is way more cost effective than Tamiya Polish, since you get a whole pint of Mequire's for about the price of one of those mini-tubes of Tamiya polish.

yellow15

06-11-2004, 08:22 PM

Could please post a pic of T-Cut and who is the producer?
here it is:
http://media.venda.com/focus/ebiz/focus/invt/771139/771139.jpg
CarPlan is the manufacturer's name

Jaymes

07-08-2004, 01:13 AM

since this thread hasn't been a month old yet since the last post...

Is clearcoating required before using any kind of compound?

sugarfree

07-08-2004, 01:17 AM

btw, when you polish your model, did u squeeze hard or just 'rubbing' touch??

white97ex

07-08-2004, 01:30 AM

you do not have to clear. i did my corvette with out clear and it turned out pretty good. i think you will find that the opinions on that will probably be half and half

Jaymes

07-08-2004, 01:42 AM

you do not have to clear. i did my corvette with out clear and it turned out pretty good. i think you will find that the opinions on that will probably be half and half

hmm your paint is automotive paint though... would it still matter on Tamiya Laquer? I would test it out myself on a scratch piece of styrene sheet..........but no. Nice job on the vette btw

StephenDeli

07-08-2004, 10:27 AM

btw, when you polish your model, did u squeeze hard or just 'rubbing' touch??

I was wondering the same thing. It seems when I polish models with light pressure as told in the FAQ I sometimes get a shine and sometimes it seems like it does nothing? I must be doing something wrong.

white97ex

07-08-2004, 11:09 AM

thanx for the compliment. i forgot about most auto paints these days being 2 part, where a clear coat is not needed.

lotus_man

07-08-2004, 12:41 PM

What ever you use, the best advise I can give is make sure the paint is fully cured (i.e hardend). Tamiya sprays are dry after a couple of days normally, but I've had much more luck with them if I leave it at least a week, better two before polishing. The paint seems to polish better if it is fully hard.

I just hate waiting. Got a Zonda three quaters done that needs polishing, and I gotta wait another 10 days before I dare rub out the clear coat. Oh wel...

Jaymes

07-08-2004, 12:46 PM

ah thanks for the advice... I hate waiting too. I keep opening the plastic container and staring at the model... it's so tempting :P

white97ex

07-09-2004, 12:24 AM

you also want the paint to stay smooth through the whole process, even beginning with the primer. the smoother the surface, the less work is required in the end

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